DIY RAM repair. Software repair of RAM

Test 5 -– Finding problems in RAM circuits.

Test 6 -– The longest test to identify data sensitive errors.

Test 7 — [ Randomnumbersequence] – Checking for errors in memory recording.

Test 8 — [ Modulo 20, ones& zeros] – Identification hidden errors in RAM using buffering and cache.

Test 9 -– The test can be started manually. He writes down addresses in memory, after which he goes to sleep for 1.5 hours. After waking up from sleep, it checks the bits in the addresses for similarity. Use the C key to manual start. The test requires about 3 hours of time. Now you have seen how it is done RAM testing, how to restore its functionality yourself and check it using Memtest86 programs with the instructions provided.

Introduction

2007 is just around the corner, powerful processors, a pair of video cards with a price of over $500 no longer surprises anyone; all advanced users have incomprehensible phrases “Conroe”, “RD600”, “G80” on their lips. However, not all of our readers use and need all this variety of new and expensive hardware. Many are still loyal to what was once the best, but now simply good computers based on Socket 939 and Socket 754 processors. These systems use exclusively DDR memory first generation, which is already sold more expensive than the newer, but not always faster DDR2. Let's try to conduct an experiment at home (that is, using a minimum of tools) to create a homemade memory stick. OCZ and Mushkin modules on selected Winbond BH-5 chips were taken as donors.

But before continuing the study, a short theoretical introduction.

Memory module design

As is known, the module DIMM memory comprises small fee, with memory chips installed on it. The module also has some additional components and a small 8-pin chip designed to store information about the module. The data format and method of communication with this chip comply with the SPD (Serial Presence Detect) standard. When turned on, Motherboard BIOS board reads the stored data and, based on the information received, sets the desired frequency and timings. This always happens when the memory configuration option in the BIOS is set to “by SPD” or similar. This chip may look like this:

Data exchange between the memory module and the computer occurs using a 64-bit bus. This means that the bus has 64 signal lines. However, the microcircuits used in the modules, to simplify manufacturing and use, have only 16 lines, i.e. 16-bit. To obtain the required 64 bits per module, four such microcircuits are needed. Based on this consideration, modules are built, which is why the minimum number of microcircuits in the simplest module is four. The maximum capacity of one modern chip for a DDR module is 256 or 512 Mbit, or 32\64 MB, respectively. However simple arithmetic tells us that 4 64MB chips give only 256MB in total. This is clearly not enough for modern applications. And to obtain a larger volume, manufacturers combine groups of 4 microcircuits into so-called banks. One module board can contain up to 4 banks (16 chips in total). This method allows you to achieve a volume of 1024 MB without introducing significant dimensions into the design.

From here we can conclude that to manufacture memory it is enough to develop one board layout for all 16 chips, and already at the assembly stage install the required number of chips to obtain different volumes. As a result, many 256MB and new 512MB modules currently on the market have only 4 or 8 chips on one side. The second side remains free. Sometimes microcircuits are installed in a checkerboard pattern, that is, 4 chips on one side, 4 on the other. However, such modules are still considered one-way. And if it has contacts for memory chips, a completely logical question arises: “What if you install all the chips?”

Practical exploration of possibilities

In fact, the procedure for installing DDR memory chips is not so labor-intensive, and is quite doable even at home at a minimum cost. However, where can I get the missing microcircuits? The solution to the problem comes immediately - you need to remove the necessary chips from another module. It is important to maintain the identity of the marking here, because different manufacturers Memory is manufactured under different conditions, designed for different frequencies, and most likely mixing different types of chips will not lead to anything good. Therefore, for these reasons, 4 modules with identical Winbond BH-5 chips were selected, which are known to overclockers for their excellent overclocking potential at high supply voltages. Two modules were a two-channel OCZ PC3500EL Platinum Limited Edition 2-3-2-6 kit, the other two were Mushkin Enhanced PC3200 Level II. Based on considerations that two-channel sets are usually additionally tested for mutual compatibility at the factory, it was decided to make one module from OCZ chips and one from Mushkin.

But before you start, you need to thoroughly degrease the surface of the boards with alcohol. In addition, the OCZ test modules were equipped with nickel-plated copper heatsinks, which must first be removed. To do this, with a sharp tool you need to remove the fixing brackets from both halves of the radiators, and then open them like a shell.

Dismantling chips

After preparation, you can begin desoldering microcircuits from two boards. This can be done by heating all the legs at the same time. A hair dryer or an electric stove will do for this. But when there is nothing like that at all, then it is also possible to use a regular gas stove for cooking, unless you take care of good ventilation and do not place the board too close to the flame. To desolder, grab the board by the edge with pliers or large tweezers and place the module with the chips facing up above the flame of the stove. The distance between the fire and the board should be approximately 15-18cm. Move the memory evenly over the fire so that the heat is distributed evenly across the board. After 7-10 minutes there will be a specific smell of resin, and the solder on the contact pads will melt. After heating the board for a few more seconds, carefully “shake off” the chips onto a table or newspaper. Perhaps for the first time several chips will remain on the module. Then just repeat the operation. When all the chips have been removed, they should be carefully transferred to workplace, to the untouched module. That's all cooking :). It is advisable to avoid touching the legs with your fingers to avoid static electricity damaging sensitive microcircuits.

Assembling a new module.

As can be seen upon careful inspection of the remaining modules, back side There are empty areas intended for installing chips. They are the ones that need to be used in the described case.

It is important to position the chip correctly on the board, and to make this task easier, each chip has a mark. It looks like a depression or small hole on the upper surface. At correct placement The label (indicated by yellow arrows) should always be on the top right, as shown in the photo below:

For installation you will need the following tools:

Soldering iron
Soldering flux
Solder
Metal braid for removing excess solder.
Cleaning fluid or alcohol
Powerful lamp or control lamp
Cotton wool or lint-free napkins.

It makes sense to consider each component separately.

The soldering iron should be low-power, no more than 25 watts, and it is advisable to ground the tip, or power the soldering iron from a step-down transformer. You can buy a similar soldering iron in stores that sell electronics and various accessories for them. The soldering iron tip should be sharpened to the shape of a blunt cone.

The flux should be non-aggressive and does not contain acids, because... it will inevitably remain under the installed chips, no matter how you wash it off, and the acid can ruin the traces on the board over time. For the experiment described in the article, an inexpensive F1 flux was used, which is an alcohol-rosin solution. It is better to use low-melting solder, because soldering must be carried out quickly enough to avoid overheating of sensitive microcircuits and the board. The braid is required to remove excess solder from the legs; it can be of any small diameter, as long as it is convenient to use. You should also choose a soft braid made of small wires. If the braid is old, it is advisable to run a fine cloth over it several times. sandpaper. Cleaning liquid and cotton wool will be needed to remove excess flux on the finished module. The required inventory might look like this:

It is advisable to have a strong magnifying glass, since the distance between the legs is quite small, and monitoring the connection with the naked eye can be problematic, especially in conditions of low-power artificial lighting.

Having placed the microcircuit on the platform, it is advisable to solder the corner legs to the board. Then carefully check the coincidence of the legs and platforms with each other. Correct installation shown in the photo below:

After fixing, you should smoothly move a well-heated tip along the row of legs, pressing the chip to the board. There should be enough solder on the tip to completely cover the pins and pads on the board. The tip should be moved without jerking or sudden movements. In this case, jumpers may form between the pins of the microcircuit. You should not avoid them now, the main thing is to reliably connect all the pins to the board. Then shake off excess solder from the tip, coat the surface well with flux and again run the soldering iron tip along all the contacts. Here you need to try to move the jumpers to the corner contacts, and from there you can easily remove it using braid. This can be done by applying the braid to the contacts and heating it from above with a soldering iron. After soldering, wash the installed microcircuit and carefully examine all connections under powerful lamp. If everything is in order, you can begin installing the remaining chips using identical technology. In addition to the chips, you also need to solder small capacitors, one for each chip. They can be removed from the donor board remaining after removing the memory chips. After this, you should thoroughly wash the board. For greater convenience and to speed up the process, you can use a stiff toothbrush or similar brush. After this, dry the board and carefully examine each leg. A scanner can also be useful; the module can be scanned and the contacts can be viewed on the monitor screen with magnification. After all, a short circuit can lead to damage to the memory, motherboard, or even processor, in the case AMD Athlon 64 / Sempron 64. Only after this can you install the “freshly baked” memory into the computer.

Firmware and tests.

However, just soldering the necessary chips is only half the job. It is not for nothing that a microcircuit for storing information about the memory module was mentioned in the theoretical part. This little chip also stores how many banks, or speaking in simple language, chips the module has, and what is their total volume. Since we have not changed this data yet, the module will most likely be detected and function without any changes. To modify, you need to install one soldered module into your computer, load Windows and download small program OsSB of our programmer Daemon. The program supports NVIDIA chipsets nForce and some others. Once launched it will look something like this:

To read the module we need, select Device 50h/57h - RAM in the Devices menu. 50-57h is a memory address, it may vary between different motherboards and slots. In the screenshot after the read operation, the program window looks something like this:

We will need to change the 6th byte, it is highlighted in green numbers on a black background. This byte determines how many banks the module has, with a value of 01 representing two banks (256 and new 512MB modules) and 02 representing four banks (most 512MB and all 1024MB). In the screenshot the value has already been corrected to 02.

The read data set also has a special checksum, which allows the computer to know whether the data was read correctly or not. It also needs to be corrected, because... we have made changes. To edit, select the last item in the Actions menu - Calculate Checksum.

That's the whole operation. Now you can restart the PC, and most likely everything will work without problems, as it did in the laboratory site. You can also use the old version (write is blocked in new versions) of another program. It's called Thaiphoon Burner, the developer's home site is http://cbid.amdclub.ru. The program has a 15-day test period with limited functionality. After launch, you will see something like this:

Two memory modules were installed in the test bench, so the menu contains two items “Read device at 52h” and “Read device at 53h”. In a PC with one module, there will be only one option, and you need to select it to start the read operation. After successful reading, the program window will change to something like this:

Everything is similar to the previous program, you will need to change the 6th byte, here it is highlighted in dark orange numbers. In the screenshot the value has already been corrected to 02.

Can be viewed detailed description module by clicking on the “Details” button at the top right. Here's what the program displayed on the test PC:

We also fix Checksum. To do this, select the Fix Checksum item in the EEPROM menu. You will be asked whether to correct the amount? You must specify "Yes".

That's the whole operation. Now you should click Write, which is not available in the program in the screenshot.

There is also a way to use a hardware programmer that allows you to flash any modules without the risk of damaging your PC. To do this you will need to assemble a simple programmer. Required:

Two KT315 transistors
Two 2.2 kOhm resistors
Two 4.7 kOhm resistors
100 nF capacitor
DB25 connector for computer LPT port
Preferably a DDR DIMM connector for ease of connection.
Development board small sizes.

As you can see, there are barely $3 worth of parts. We used the EasyI2C programmer circuit from the website www.lancos.com. There is also a program for working with this programmer, PonyProg 2000.

Assembly of this device should not cause any difficulties for people who have seen a soldering iron and a transistor. Any transistors can be used n-p-n type, in our case it was KT315B and BC817 in SMD housing. The programmer may look like this:

We used the DDR DIMM connector from the motherboard for greater convenience when flashing a large number of modules.

All necessary signals are already output by the module manufacturer to the DDR DIMM connector. Also an advantage this approach in maintaining the warranty type of memory modules. The programming procedure is greatly simplified: insert the module, run the program, write down the data, turn it off and the module will be reflashed. However, you can directly solder wires to the SPD chip on the board without desoldering it. For DDR2 modules the principle is exactly the same, there are no changes, except for different pin numbers. The EEPROM installed on the module board has pins A0,A1,A2,WP(TEST) connected to ground (GND).

SDADDR DIMM pad No. 93DDR2 DIMM pad No. 119 SCLDDR DIMM pad No. 94DDR2 DIMM pad No. 120 VCCDDR DIMM pad No. 184DDR2 DIMM pad No. 238 GNDDDR DIMM pad No. 176DDR2 DIMM pad No. 237

Well, those who consider such a design unreliable and dangerous can make a board, for example, like this one:

The size of the given board does not exceed the size of a modern mobile phone. This is a complete programmer circuit with an additional +5V linear stabilizer. The board used SMD components: BC817 transistors, size 1206 resistors, 78L05 stabilizer, three LEDs (SDA, SCL and Power). The circuit requires +9-25 V power. +12V power was applied from the PC power supply. The connecting wires of the programmer to the chip should be kept as short as possible to avoid interference and interference. After assembly, do not rush to immediately connect the chip to the programmer; first turn it on separately. If everything is soldered correctly and nothing exploded :), check the connection is correct connecting cable and only then, turning off the circuit, solder the chip or connect the module board. After successfully assembling the programmer, you need to download and install the PonyProg2000 program. This can be done from the same site http://www.lancos.com/. You first need to configure the program. This can be done by clicking Setup > Interface Setup... Next, select the Parallel type, EasyI2C I/O programmer, LPT1 port. Click Probe. If the connection is successful, you will receive a message – Test Ok. We select the type of microcircuit in the main window - I2C Bus 8bit eeprom, 2402. The buttons with icons are intuitive. Having successfully read your SPD, the programmer will display the following window:

Single-sided modules with 8 chips with a total volume of 256MB have one logical bank. This is written in the 6th byte as the value “01” (shown in the photo with a gray square). To edit the value, click Edit > Edit Buffer Enabled. Those wishing to change the timings and frequencies of the module can find at the end of the article a link to detailed articles about the SPD mechanism. Since the 512MB module has 2 banks, we correct the value to “02”. However, it is too early to record changed data. Byte 3F (rightmost in the fourth line) stores check sum, to check the correctness of the data. IN in this case the value of the sum is 7C. We have made 1 bit of change, and we need to add one to the sum. Replace 7C with 7D. Now you are ready to write data to the module. To do this, click the 2nd left button on the bottom line. If the recording is successful, the program will display the message “Write successful”. We turn off the programmer, turn off the module, once again carefully checking that all microcircuits are installed correctly and that there are no short circuits or suspicious areas.

After successful firmware flashing and reboot, the computer reports that the soldered memory has been determined:

After successful loading, you can begin testing the module for stability. To do this, you can use programs such as Prime, S&M, 3Dmark. The configuration of the computer used for testing the modules was as follows:

Processor Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (Socket 939, “Manchester” core, 2000MHz, 2x512KB cache) Mat. DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra-D board (nForce4 Ultra, BIOS ver. 704-2BT)
Video card ATI Mach64 CT 2MB PCI
Power supply Zippy Emacs Gaming PSL-6720(G1) (720W, EPS, ATX 2.2)
Sound card Creative Sound Blaster Live! 7.1 24bit
HDD Seagate Barracuda ATA IV 80GB (ST380021A)
DVD-RW drive NEC NR-3540A
OS Windows 2003 Standard Edition SP1

Both test modules passed all tests without problems, and, in addition, overclocked to a frequency of 245 MHz with timings of 2-2-2-4 and CMD 1T with additional cooling fan.

The memory after all the modifications and installation of radiators began to look like this:

Bottom line

Of course, the described technique is very fine work which requires attention and accuracy. However, sometimes it is not possible to increase the amount of memory by simply purchasing modules of the required size. This is not so rare, because many budget systems have only two memory slots, and the user, for some reason, does not want to lose previously acquired memory. Or is it possible that rare specimens high-speed memory, just like the one used in the article. The memory on these chips allows the use of low timings at frequencies exceeding 270 MHz, which is not available to other memory modules from Samsung, Hynix, Infineon.

However, it is also possible to use this technology to repair memory with damaged chips. Even with some additional conditions You can replace the memory on inexpensive video cards, because they still often use memory in output packages.

Some of the operations described above can be viewed on the video TM_Video_7, available for download in our archive ( /data/video//TM_video_7.avi). The file is about 18MB and uses the X.264 codec from the package K-Lite Codec Pack.

Those wishing to purchase a programmer for SPD can send their request to the address with a note about the purchase of an SPD programmer.

Gratitude Daemon"y for the OsSB program

In this article I will talk in detail about how to identify RAM problems. We will also figure out how to repair and replace RAM using the example of a PC, laptop, and Windows examples and Linux.

I will try to describe everything in detail and clearly. Therefore, beginners will be able to figure it out, and experienced users will find something interesting for themselves.

Terms:
RAM - official name random access memory.
A RAM stick is a chip that represents random access memory.

How can RAM go bad?

RAM is a chip inserted into a special slot in your computer or laptop. Naturally, a computer has more RAM, but a laptop has less. A stick of RAM is the most reliable piece of hardware in your computer or laptop. According to statistics, they are the least likely to break, and therefore the warranty period for them is longer (on average - 4 years).

This is due to the simplicity of the chip. It practically does not heat up, and therefore does not need a cooler (fan). In rare cases, a radiator is placed on the operating room for cooling, but this usually occurs on powerful gaming computers. In addition, the heatsink makes the RAM bar structurally stronger.

RAM can only be damaged physically. Those. Not a single virus or software problem can yet spoil RAM. Therefore, the most common causes of the problem are:

1) Manufacturing defect.
2) Problems with the power supply.
3) Mechanical damage strips of RAM or connectors.
4) Static voltage.
5) Simple wear and tear.
6) Overheating/hypercooling.

Manufacturing defect rarely occurs. In 1% of cases, and this does not depend much on the manufacturer. This is due to the fact that all microcircuits are tested by the manufacturer. In addition, the warranty period for RAM is long. Therefore, it is enough just to go to service center and change the RAM bar under warranty.

Problems with the power supply are rare. In power supplies and maternal memory There are controllers that do not allow you to output voltage greater than expected. However, there are cases when it is a voltage failure that spoils the RAM. Unfortunately, you can only check this with a voltmeter, which most people don’t have at home (but in vain). If the problem is in the power supply, then you will have to replace it too.

Mechanical damage- the most common case. This usually happens when you try to force insert a stick of RAM. Sometimes it is not the chip itself that is damaged, but the connector.

Static voltage is extremely rare. In my practice, I have never encountered this. System unit The computer and the laptop case are always closed, and therefore static voltage is eliminated. Moreover, in modern devices there is an antistatic mesh under motherboard. However, static voltage can become dangerous. For example, if you walk on the carpet in rubber slippers, and then reach into the “insides” of the computer with your hands.

Simple wear happens over time. Nothing in this world lasts forever. A RAM stick can deteriorate either after 4 years or after 15 years. It all depends on the operating conditions and the manufacturer.

Overheating or hypothermia It can also ruin your RAM. But this rarely happens, since completely prohibitive temperatures (+100C, -45C) are required to damage the microcircuit. Clean your computer and laptop from dust and everything will be fine.

How to fix damaged RAM

No way. If a stick of RAM is damaged, it is almost impossible to repair it. If the problem is in the connector or contact wear, then something else can be done. However, the microcircuit itself cannot be repaired; it can only be replaced. Luckily they are inexpensive. 2GB at 1600Hz costs around 1500 rubles, which is quite a bit, considering warranty periods. Just try not to buy RAM with a warranty of less than two years.

However, don't be afraid. Problems can be solved.

What signs indicate a defect in RAM?

General signs:
1) The system does not start. Or it starts to reboot itself endlessly, trying to start normally.
2) The system does not start at all. Usually accompanied by squeaking. This means that the RAM is not detected at all. This means either the RAM stick is very damaged or the connector is damaged.

Windows:
1) Crashes blue screen of death. Blue screen with technical information. The error code most often varies. That is, there is no point in googling the error, because... the codes are always different and always show different reasons. Sometimes this happens because the RAM stick is not fully inserted.
2) System malfunctions. This is usually associated with programs and games that actively use RAM. A striking example: programs, browsers and games crash with system error. Sometimes accompanied by a crash into a blue screen.

Linux:
1) System malfunctions and program crashes. Sometimes it turns out funny. You go to the browser, it crashes with an error, you try to view the bug report, but it also crashes with a system error. Even if you look at the logs, it’s still not always immediately clear what the problem is. Typical for all Debian-derived distributions.
2) The system does not boot. It crashes to the console or writes an error. Although maybe for some who use Arch or LFS, this is how it was intended :)

How to check RAM for defects

The easiest way to check your RAM is to download and install it on a flash drive or CD (does anyone else use them?!) special utility Memtest86.

There is Memtest86, and there is also Memtest86+. The difference between them is small, so you can download any one on the official website: www.memtest.org

This archive contains automatic installer to a USB flash drive. Those. insert the USB flash drive, run the program and follow simple instructions. Then you insert this flash drive into your computer or laptop, boot from it and check the RAM.

If you have Linux, then Memtest86 comes bundled with images of Debian, Ubuntu, Fedora and some others. The utility can also be launched from the grub menu at startup. If you don’t know what grub is, then it’s too early for you to start using Linux :)

But! Before you run the program from a flash drive, you need to do the following.

Step 1.
First you need to find the microcircuit. It's easy to do. The RAM looks like a rectangular chip. For a computer it is longer, for a laptop it is shorter.

The microcircuit is clamped on the sides with clamps (a tautology, yes). The clips are easy to open and then pull out the RAM stick. But before you pull out the chip...

Step 2.
Reset your BIOS settings. When the system starts, press Del and exits BIOS menu. Select the Set to Default option (by default F9 or F10). Then save and reboot.
This step is not required, but the philosophy of fixing hardware requires this step. In some cases, resetting the settings helps the system work.

Step 3.
Pull out the RAM chip and look at its condition. If the contacts are dirty, then take an eraser and gently wipe them lengthwise.

Step 4.
If you have one stick, then put it in the connector and run Memtest from the flash drive. If you have several RAM chips, then leave one and take out the rest.

Step 5.
Once you run Memtest, it will immediately begin checking your RAM. It looks like this:

In the image I have marked the program zones with color.
Green - characteristics of your processor (CPU).
Purple - verification stage and verification percentage.
Yellow - the model and characteristics of your RAM. Remember them or write them down, because if you want to buy a new stick of RAM, you will rely on these characteristics.

If the program detects errors, it will mark them in red. Even one mistake is already a reason to replace the RAM.

Step 6
After checking, turn off your computer or laptop. Then take out the RAM again and insert it into another slot. Run Memtest again.
If errors appear again, then you need to replace the RAM stick, because... it can no longer be repaired.
If no errors appear, then the problem is in the connector.

If you have several RAM chips, then check each one in turn. If the problem is in the connector, then simply do not use it, or take it to a service center to have it fixed.

Problem solving

If Memtest gives red errors, then your RAM cannot be cured. Buy a new one.

Of course, if there are not many errors, then you can continue to work with this RAM strip. But as soon as some program stumbles upon a damaged sector, glitches and crashes will begin. If you use Linux and can compile the kernel yourself, then based on Memtest86 data you can build a system that would not use the specified memory areas, avoiding errors.

However, remember! If Memtest86 detected errors in memory, then the wear-out process has already begun. This means that over time, there will be more errors until the RAM completely deteriorates.

Replacing RAM is easy. You pull out the damaged chip and carefully insert a new one. In laptops, the RAM stick is inserted and pulled out at an upward angle. Those. you insert the RAM diagonally, and then press it from the top until it clicks. And if you release the limiters, the microcircuit itself will “jump” to the top.

If you have a laptop with non-functional RAM, then it is better to immediately take it with you to the store. There you can ask a consultant to install RAM in your laptop yourself if you are afraid. In addition, you can immediately test the operation of the new RAM stick by taking with you a flash drive with Memtest86+.

conclusions

If you don’t understand something or have any questions, leave them in the comments to this article.

But, in general, testing and replacing RAM is not that difficult. It’s just that ignorance is scary, and therefore the main thing is to cope with fear. After all, computers and laptops are designed as logically and simply as possible, as surprising as it may seem.

Latest tips from the Computers & Internet section:

Council comments:

When I start the computer, a blue screen "Eror: 0x0000007E" crashes, I think this is a problem with the RAM, although I installed it half a year ago

Hello, it beeps 3 times when starting up.. All contacts were trusted, the video card is working.. 2 RAM strips, turned on one at a time and changed slots... Before this it started normally without problems.. What could be the problem, the screen does not react at all ..

Hello, a child flooded the laptop with liquid soap bubbles, after drying it knocks out the black screen where he writes phoenix bios 4.0 release 6.1 copyright 1985-2007 phoenix technologies Ltd all Rights reserved model name extensa 5635 z bios version vo.3216 build time 06.09.09. 18.36 cpu =1 processors detected, cores per processors =2 pentium dual core cpu 30006M system ram passed 1024 KB L2 Cache System Bios Shadowed video bios shadowed fixed disk 0 ATAPI CD ROM Mouse initialized ERROR 0200 failure Fixed disk 0, press f 1 to resume f2 setup

Hello, I have such a problem, I was sitting playing on a laptop without a battery and accidentally pulled out the power cord from the socket, and accordingly it turned off and the key does not turn on, the key is flashing Caps lock three times this is a malfunction of the memory module, I replaced the RAM but there is no point, everything is the same, tell me what to do??? Thank you very much!!!

The second RAM slot in the Lenovo g505 laptop does not work, I insert the RAM, turn on the laptop, the laptop turns on, the screen is black, what is the problem, explain who knows

The text is quite tolerable, but the RAM strip itself is not a microcircuit, but a circuit (or board), and the microcircuits are those square black things on it.

Good day. I have the following problem: Toshiba laptop - when starting games after some time (10-30 minutes. Sometimes more), the system just stops and does not respond to anything. The same problem occurs when you watch movies online. Tell me what could be the reason

Dude, you're awesome, you helped me out

Good afternoon This question is overdue. I have 4 DDR2 sticks, 2 of 1 gig, 2 of 2 gig, despite the fact that they are from the same manufacturer and the same frequency. if you put them separately (2 by 2/2 by 1), everything works, but only on the mother’s yellow slots. and when installed in different slots or installing 4 strips at once, some kind of failure occurs, the system unit beeps incessantly and does not load the system. What to do?

Thanks for the answer, a situation just arose, we were doing repairs, people came two months later and claim that we supposedly replaced the RAM) so I’m trying to figure out what’s what))))) the laptop was flooded))

Pavel, no, this is hardly possible. The volume cannot change like that, even if the sectors are damaged. It is quite possible that your equipment is reserving some memory. Go to Task Manager - Resource Monitor, and see how much is reserved by the equipment.

Hello, the question is, can the RAM partially fail and show 1 gig instead of 4 gigs, for example, is this even possible???

Hello! Please tell me, my RAM is definitely working, as it was tested on other PCs (Intel), but when I insert it into my PC (Intel), I get a black screen and one long squeak that repeats, which indicates a faulty RAM. I put the dies one at a time and different slots, the same 1 long squeak. Also on the motherboard there are 2 swollen capacitors near the processor socket above it and on the left, could this be the cause of the malfunction? Or is it a matter of RAM slots? I hope I explained it clearly! Thank you in advance!

Oleg, you can check this way. Pull out one stick, and if everything is fine, then most likely there is something wrong with the compatibility of the motherboard or processor.

I had 16GB of RAM in 4x4 sticks, now I installed 4x8 GB and my laptop has become slower to turn on and some glitches and slowdowns sometimes appear, maybe this is due to the RAM?

Distortion of this information as a result of computer or program failures does not provide BIOS capabilities determine the memory level. You can even recover this information from operating system. To do this, you need to use a program that makes it possible to read, correct and write the contents of the microcircuit with memory settings - SPDTool. After recording the correct data, the memory will be detected and will serve properly for a long time.
To use the program, the computer must be started. If one memory stick is installed, and it is faulty, you need to add a second one that is known to be working. The best option There will be a memory stick from the same manufacturer and of similar capacity. Install the working bar closest to the processor, it will be the first and will allow the system to start. The ideal option is when the computer has two identical memory sticks installed, then the information from the first will exactly fit the second. If all of the above does not help, it is possible that it is not the RAM that is faulty, but the motherboard. Check carefully, there may be swollen capacitors near the memory slots. In this case, other repairs are necessary.
If the computer with working and faulty memory still starts up, you can start flashing the firmware.

The installation program is not required, unzip the archive to your desktop and run SPDTool.exe. Next on the menu File select an item Read And Module 0: Installed. The program will read the settings of a working memory stick. Click bookmark Timing Summary for more complete information about the parameters.

The upper part of the window displays the contents of the chip SPD EPROM, below is the full name of the parameter with a drop-down list of options for changing. When a parameter is selected, its value is highlighted in the upper half of the window.

First, save the contents of the memory dump. Menu File paragraph Save, For example DDR2_xGB_Transcend.spd. If the first memory stick is the same as the failed one, this information will be needed to write to faulty memory. Then we read the contents of the faulty memory stick File -> Read-> module number.
It is quite difficult to immediately determine whether there are differences, so first we will load the previously saved dump, menu File paragraph Open, and then Compare And Module2: Installed. The program will perform a byte-by-byte comparison and display a message about the result. We select the values ​​that need to be changed in the dump and set the necessary ones using the options in the parameter drop-down menu.
You can also just write down all the contents, first open the dump File -> Open, then select File -> Write and the number of the module that needs to be flashed.
Now the most interesting question is where to get a dump for comparison or firmware if there is no such memory stick. Of course, on the Internet, by entering the type of memory in the search bar and keyword “SPD”.
The second method is to compare the parameter values ​​with a stick from the same manufacturer, type and with the same memory chips but with smaller/larger capacity.
It often happens that the firmware data is correct, but free bytes instead 00 set to value FF or vice versa. After changing the values, the memory is detected and works correctly.
Anyway, you need to know exactly what you are changing in the firmware. Entering incorrect data may result in the memory stick no longer being detected at all and becoming unwritable. In this case, you will have to remove the EPROM chip and flash it on the programmer.
Unfortunately, the format of the article does not allow us to describe in detail all the parameters used in the program. For more complete information, you need to download the documentation on the websites of RAM manufacturers. As a rule, it contains all the necessary values. Later in the section "Download" The site will post all found firmware.
After flashing the firmware, the computer must be rebooted and the memory tested, this is described in

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