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How to configure Lightroom 5 for correct display. Setting up, optimizing Adobe Lightroom and some practical tips

Like any other program, things sometimes go wrong with Lightroom. It may stop starting, start to slow down terribly, and produce some errors and mysterious messages.

To avoid problems, first of all, don’t do typical mistakes when working with the program, which you can read about in the article ““.

What to do if Lightroom is broken? The main thing is not to panic.

Then - always have a backup copy of the directories. You've probably noticed that Lightroom periodically asks you to back up catalogs. Do you close this window or do what is recommended to you? Maybe it's time to pay attention to the advice before it's too late?

Ideally, in addition to backing up directories, you should make a backup copy of the source files, but with a large number of images, this can become problematic.

But having backup copies of catalogs and sources, you can sleep peacefully. No matter what happens, you won't lose your pictures.

Now let's look at the list of the most typical problems problems arising with Lightroom and what to do about it.

Lightroom won't open

Solution options. Firstly, a banal reboot of the computer. It may be funny, but it helps.

If this does not help, then first of all delete the file with the .lock extension, which is blocking the directory while you are working with it.
In a normal situation, the file is deleted automatically after closing Lightroom. But sometimes, if the work was completed incorrectly, it may remain and interfere with the launch.

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This file is located in the same place as all the files in the current directory. The default is

  • Windows: \Users\[username]\Pictures\Lightroom
  • Mac OS: /Users/[username]/Pictures/Lightroom

If there was no .lock file or deletion did not help, try deleting the Lightroom settings file

You need to look for it here:

  • On Mac OS X: /Library/Preferences
  • On Windows: c:\Users\[username]\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom\Preferences\

On Windows these are files with the extension .agprefs on Mac - .plist

If the directory still does not open and you have backup copy, try opening it instead of the current directory.

At worst, try completely uninstalling Lightroom and installing it again. In this case, it is advisable to install the most latest version.

Lightroom is slow

Optimizing Lightroom performance maximum performance- this is a separate topic. But the main tips are as follows.

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First of all, try optimizing the File -> Optimize Catalog directory.
Increase the cache size for Lightroom. Also, be sure that there is enough free space on the disk where the cache file is located.
You can find out where the cache is located and change its size in the Edit->Preferences menu (Lightroom->Preferences on Mac) on the File Handling tab

Lightroom is quite demanding on computer resources. Therefore, for speed, close everything unnecessary programs, update Lightroom to the latest version, and also be sure that with RAM everything is fine on the computer.

Lightroom shows error when exporting

The easiest thing to do is to try restarting Lightroom first. If you are using any plugins that were applied during processing, make sure that the plugins are working correctly.
Do not use unofficial russifiers for Lightroom - no one knows who made them and how. Delete the settings file as described above.

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Lightroom doesn't show preview or photo itself

First, try deleting the folder with previews of your photos. It is located in the same place as all the directory files. On Windows this is a folder with the directory name and .lrdata at the end, on Mac it is a file with the same name. Try updating your video card driver and monitor profile.

Lightroom is acting strange

There may be a large number of “oddities” here, but their treatment is mainly carried out using shamanic methods. Check if there is enough space for the Lightroom cache, update your video card drivers and monitor profile, be sure that hard drive and the RAM is fine.

A universal way to solve problems

Don't forget to update Lightroom. As a rule, updates include not only new cameras, as stated in official press releases, but also many bugs found and corrected in the program itself. Therefore, there is a possibility that next update your problem will already be solved.

The solution for Lightroom, which is stupid, slow, works slowly, and does not respond.

Fix Lightroom stuttering problem. Speeding up Lightroom.

If you switched from Lightroom 4 to Lightroom 5, you may have noticed that slowdowns and glitches began to appear from time to time. This happens to me all the time and I can't figure out why. I searched a bunch of forums and rummaged through all of Google and Yandex and eventually decided to collect a list of all kinds of solutions related to this problem and its solution. And I’ll tell you what: this has nothing to do with the equipment on which Laitur is installed. This problem was observed on my top computers, including 8-core processor, SSD HDD and 24 gigabytes of RAM.

Here are some simple solutions I discovered to speed up Laithur.

Make your catalogs smaller.

I usually import about 500-1000 images from one shoot day. After that, I observe 7 second lags and Lightroom brakes after every change I make. I restarted the computer, but it didn't help. I ended up splitting the shooting folder into smaller parts. Each was about 200-300 frirnpafiy. The problem was solved. Laitur's acceleration was immediate, he began to work faster and without lag.

Increase your cache size.

I saw this advice from large number users. This did not help me personally, but perhaps in some situations it will solve the problem. Go to Lightroom settings. In the File Handling tab at the bottom you will see the cache size settings ( Camera Raw Cache Settings, Video Cache Settings). Change the value to 5 or 10 gigabytes. You can also take the opportunity to clear the cache (Purge Cache).

It is important to understand that after clearing the Lightroom cache, you will need to re-create previews for all photos. To do this, go to the mode Library, menu Library -> Previews -> Build Standard-Sized | 1:1 | Smart Previews.

Change compatibility settingsRAW (RAWcompatibility).

In the Lightroom settings of the File Handling tab, you can also change the compatibility mode. Change the setting to the latest version. Or, if it’s already the last one, on the contrary, try returning to previous version. I’m not sure if this will work, but there were some recommendations for speeding up Lightroom.

Delete Lightroom settings.

An option for those who, like me, have been updating versions of Lightroom since ancient times (Lightroom 2, Lightroom 3, etc.), reinstalling along the way operating system. There is a high probability that everything in the Lightroom settings is mixed up. And, as for me, this makes sense. In different versions, the settings, parameters and capabilities of Lightroom itself changed, which over time created a whole coherent mess. Therefore, try deleting the old Lightroom settings so that it can overwrite the new ones instead of the old ones. But first of all, be sure to make a backup copy.

For poppy growers MacOS The file locations are as follows:

/Users/MacBook/Library/Preferences/com.adobe.Lightroom4.plist

Your library is likely hidden by default, so there are a few steps you need to complete first (http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/access-hidden-user-library-files.html)

For users Windows everything is simpler. The path where the Lightroom settings are located is here:

%appdata%\Adobe\Lightroom\Preferences\Lightroom 4 Preferences.agprefs (generic path)

or, if the previous path is not found, here:

C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom\Preferences\Lightroom 4 Preferences.agprefs

After this, all Lightroom settings will be set to default. You will have to configure them again. But this is a small price to pay for your Lightroom to speed up and work at its former speed.

Set disk permissions (Mac OS).

If you are an Apple user on Mac OS X, your disk access settings may also have been set incorrectly. I use the Onyx program (http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/11582/onyx#sthash.tUixNHyF.dpuf).

Run it, check and clean it. Or install Automator and let it do everything itself. Sometimes this works if you notice that the computer sometimes makes terrible glitches.

A few additional points to speed up Lightroom.

Catalog optimization.

This procedure must be performed from time to time. Menu File -> Optimize Catalog. It only takes a few minutes, but can significantly speed up scrolling through photos.

Setting the size of generated previews or the quality of thumbnails.

Go to the catalog settings Edit -> Catalog Settings, File Handling tab. Now you can change the size of the standard preview and its quality to more low values, so that all previews load faster. Of course, you will lose viewing quality in this case, so change the values ​​to your taste.

Leave sharpening and noise reduction for last (Sharpen andRemoveNoise).

This setting is the most CPU-intensive option in Lightroom. These settings should be at minimum (or default) before the final processing steps. Otherwise, Lightroom will force your computer to do all these calculations every time you move any color slider. So it's best to disable the entire tab until everything else is unchecked.

I use several versions of Lightroom installed simultaneously on my computer running Window OS. Different versions have slightly different functionality, or different methods implementation of the same functions. Depending on the situation, I choose the version I need. Here are screenshots based on quite old version Lightroom 3.7. I have all versions of Lightroom without Russification, since this is not important to me.

Behind for a long time working with the program, I developed my own algorithm for working in Lightroom, which I almost always use. My 5 simple tips They will help as much as possible only to those who film in RAW format and develops photographs in batches.

To thoughtfully develop each photo in RAW format individually, I recommend using original (i.e. native) software. For example, for the Nikon system this is .

0 (zero point). Importing RAW files.

The essence of the action: prepare working space for further manipulations with files.

This is the zero, additional point from which work with Lightroom always begins. To start processing photos, you must first import them into the program. I use a quick and simple download: I simply drag all the files into the Lightroom window with the mouse and press the ‘Import’ button. I always import from a directory located on my hard drive. If the import is carried out from a flash drive, the import process will be delayed, since the program will most likely copy everything first source files to your special catalog.

Import has its own peculiarities. When photos are imported into Lightroom, you can sometimes notice how the picture preview(preview) changes its color, saturation, exposure. This is due to the fact that everyone RAW file carries not only the original information about the image, but also many other additional data. One of such data is photo previews for quick view. Roughly speaking, the RAW file has a built-in thumbnail in the format, which is used for quick viewing photograph taken on the camera display. This JPEG thumbnail is based on the settings specified by the camera. When importing photos into Lightroom, the program displays JPEG thumbnails extracted from the RAW file. After attempting to take a closer look at the photo, Lightroom constructs (renders) a new image directly from the original raw data, using its own presets. Lightroom presets and JPEG thumbnails do not match, which is why the original picture changes before your eyes.

Unfortunately, it is very, very difficult to get Lightroom to accurately replicate all the camera settings. In fact, it is impossible to repeat all the camera settings. Only native software can display a RAW image on a computer in full compliance with what can be seen on the camera display. But in order to minimize the differences between how the picture looks on the camera display and in the program window, I recommend turn off everything in the camera additional functions , which improve the image. For the Nikon system, this primarily concerns Active functions.

All improvements must be made using Lightroom. It makes sense to use on-camera functions to improve the image only when shooting in the format, or if RAW files will be processed using native software.

After import, you can add tags, labels, correctly catalog a series of pictures, and configure the sorting of photos in your feed.

Also, you can import immediately using a specific preset, into which you can write the settings listed below.

1. I set the camera profile.

The essence of the action: basic setting for the most correct/beautiful rendering of the original RAW file.

The setting is located at Develop -> Camera Calibration -> Profile -> select the desired profile

In order for the image generated in Lightroom to be as similar as possible to the one displayed on the camera display, Lightroom needs to specify the correct camera profile. In short, a camera profile is a photo management mode that is set on the camera (neutral, saturated, monochrome, etc.).

This key moment. The correct camera profile allows you to significantly improve the visual perception of the image. Finding a good profile for a specific camera is very, very difficult.

Lightroom usually has a set basic profiles: neutral, saturated, portrait, etc. These profiles very loosely correspond to similar profiles that are set on the camera.

You can search for a profile for your specific camera yourself. Usually they create profiles third party developers. I'm sure for large quantity cameras, you won’t be able to find a good profile. In this case, you will need to choose the profile that you like the most.

An existing profile can be modified, namely, the color shift in the shadows, offset and saturation of each of the three main channels can be adjusted. After which, you can create a custom preset, writing into it only changes relating to Camera Calibration (when creating a preset, you should only select the ‘Calibration’ checkbox).

2. I set the lens profile.

The essence of the action: get rid of lens shortcomings.

The function is set as follows Develop -> Lens Corrections -> Profile -> Enable Profile Corrections

Everything is simple here. By choosing a lens profile, you can completely get rid of some of the lens' shortcomings. IN general case this setting allows you to completely cure and. Also, lenses are treated here. Lightroom has an extensive database of lenses, with which you can “cure” any of them.

If the lens you are using is not in the list, you can correct these parameters manually, and then write the result into a preset that can be applied to all photos.

After this adjustment, the distortions introduced by the lens should be leveled out.

In the future, the lens profile will be applied to each photo.

3. I optimize and expand the capabilities of the camera and lens.

The essence of the action: make the most beautiful/desired image possible through basic exposure and color manipulations.

Everything is very simple here. I usually choose one key photo from a series or even from an entire shoot and adjust it according to basic parameters:

  • Increasing DD - restoration of lights and shadows (Highlight recovery, Fill light, Dark)
  • Adjusting Vibrance
  • Increasing saturation (Saturation)
  • Clarity Enhancement
  • Sharpening
  • Noise reduction

The main thing here is not to overdo it. I try to make the photo “neutral positive” so that all further manipulations are based on the original “normal” image.

Important: The level of a particular setting greatly depends on the camera used and the frames directly taken. For example, I clearly know and understand how much influence this or that slider in Lightroom has on the RAW files of my cameras, but it takes a long time to get used to a new camera and processing its RAW files.

In the future, these settings will be applied to each photo.

4. I synchronize all images using one key photo.

The essence of the action: bring all images under one basic view.

After all the previous manipulations, I synchronize all the photos with the changed settings. This is done very simply. In the 'Develop' section, select all photos in the feed (CTRL+A) and press the 'Sync' button. In the synchronization menu, I click the ‘Check All’ button, then uncheck the ‘White Balance’ (), ‘Crop’, ‘Spot Removal’ checkboxes. The captured parameters should not be synchronized, since each photo has its own individual cropping and spot correction/restoration.

Synchronization is part batch processing. At the end of it, all photos are adjusted to similar settings.

After this manipulation in the Lightroom feed, all photos are more or less reduced to normal looking. The previous four points allow you to “bring images to zero” - to rid them of the shortcomings of the lens and camera and to push the capabilities of the RAW file to the limit. After these four manipulations, you can begin real fine processing and prepare the image for final stage, which the client will see.

5. I crop all the photos.

The essence of the action: correct cropping flaws - level the horizon, crop the photo with correct location details in the frame, cut out key parts of the photo.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to crop one photo and apply cropping to all photos in the feed. After synchronization basic settings I crop all photos. During the cropping operation, I also selectively delete bad pictures from the Lightroom feed.

Important: I highly recommend cropping photos with fixed aspect ratios. The proportions of the classic frame are 3:2. After cropping, all photographs have the same frame proportions and do not differ in any way during viewing. If this is not done, then after cropping you may end up with square photographs and very elongated stripes. This does not correspond to the general style of the photo feed. In addition, during printing, there is a 100% probability that parts of the frame will be cut off or filled with white space. Usually printed on standard sizes, which also correspond to the proportions 3:2. For almost every shoot, I print photographs or edit a photo book; maintaining proportions after cropping is very important to me. To maintain crop proportions in Lightroom, just click on the padlock icon.

After cropping and deleting unsuccessful frames, I have a “polished” set of photos in my feed that can be further manipulated.

Important: I call all specified actions ‘ Go to Zero’, since these simple manipulations allow you to look at an image devoid of basic shortcomings, raw, neutral, like Blank sheet, looking at which it is already possible to carry out further fine processing.

I believe that these manipulations can improve the quality of the original image by 30%. The remaining 60% is image refinement through Adobe Photoshop(Photoshop, not Lightroom).

In my practice, it often happens that after completing just these five points, you can already get an image option that can satisfy both me and my clients. Most often, processing is limited to just these five points, unless there is a need to retouch photographs (eliminating skin imperfections, working with plastic, artistic color correction, etc.).

For me, the most difficult thing in processing is, after bringing all the photographs from a series/shoot into a digestible form, choosing the best ones for fine-tuning them.

6. I export all photos (bonus point)

The essence of the action: get a finished result that can be viewed by any user/client on any device.

IN in this case export is the process of exporting photos from RAW format into a format that is suitable for further processing or viewing. If I plan to do nothing else, then I export to the pop format. If I plan to further modify photographs in Adobe Photoshop, then I use the 'TIFF' or 'DNG' format. IN Lately I was overwhelmed by laziness, I don’t use TIFF and export all photos immediately to .

Eventually My photo processing process is divided into two stages: processing in Lightroom and processing in Photoshop. Lightroom - for basic settings, restoration of “screwed up” pictures, batch processing of photo feeds. Photoshop - for the final “finishing” of photographs, retouching, manipulation of layers, masks, and more.

Philosophy

I am convinced that a photographer must develop a clear plan of action, a clear concept, a well-thought-out methodology with step by step actions photo processing. Spent technological process greatly speeds up and simplifies the processing and delivery of finished material to the client.

Bottom line. My basic processing process constructed as follows: import -> set camera profile -> set lens profile -> expand camera/lens capabilities -> synchronize selected settings -> crop -> export. I repeat - this is the basic process, the basis from which my processing begins.

Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

I love Adobe Lightroom. But that doesn't mean I want to spend a lot of time using it. I'd rather be shooting or teaching Lightroom lessons, so I need to quickly edit my photos in Lightroom.

How to Process Photos Faster in Lightroom

1. Use Caps Lock to Auto Change

When you need to quickly work in a module Library(Library), my favorite trick is to press CapsLock on keyboard.

With enabled Caps Lock You can use keyboard shortcuts to add metadata to an image and automatically advance to the next one.

  • P to mark the photo as selected
  • U to uncheck an image or skip the current one
  • Numbers 1-5 are used for the corresponding star rating
  • 1-6 used for color label

I can't recommend Auto changer(Auto Advance) as a quick and simple trick, but it is also very effective. With it you can quickly move around the picture while keeping your fingers on quick buttons that are indicated above.

If you don't want to use Caps Lock, you can activate the mode through the menu Photo > Auto change(Photo > Auto Advance).

2. Edit with Smart Previews

Smart preview(Smart Preview) - it's like magic. Lightroom can create smaller versions of your photos within a catalog so you can continue editing if you go offline.

This is very useful for laptop owners with huge photo collections on an external hard drive. When it's time to leave your hard drive at home and hit the road, you can continue editing with Smart preview.

Another key feature for Smart Previews is that you can edit them and enjoy them. increased productivity. Here's how it works: Smart preview files are smaller than RAW files. You can work with them faster than with originals, even when you have access to full resolution. We can force Lightroom to use Smart Previews instead of originals during editing.

To work with Smart Preview, go to the window Parameters(Preferences) Lightroom and select the tab Performance(Performance). Check the box Use Smart Previews instead of originals for editing(Use Smart Previews instead of Originals for image editing) to enable the feature.

3. Turning off the backlight will help you focus on the photo

Sometimes I need to focus on the photo I'm working with rather than the Lightroom interface. This is where the regime comes to the rescue Lights Out.

To activate this mode, press L while in the window Libraries(Library). The area around the photo is darkened, making it look bright and clear. Press the key again and the space will turn completely black. Pressing L again returns the original view.

Having the backlight turned off works great both when viewing a single photo and when working with a grid. Key Function- The interface dims so you can focus on the photo.

4. Add your logo to Lightroom

Let's add a little personality with new feature Lightroom - Personal inscription(Identity Plate). Use it to add your own logo or image to the top left corner of Adobe Lightroom.

Go to menu Lightroom > Set Up a Personal Caption(Lightroom > Identity Plate Setup). From the drop down menu select Personal(Personalized).

There are two options for a personal signature:

Check mark Text personal inscription (Use a styled text identity plate) will allow you to use system fonts to write your name or brand.

Check mark Graphic personal inscription(Use a graphical identity plate) allows you to use transparent png file as a logo.

A personal signature is ideal if you want to use Lightroom to show your photos to clients. This dose of personality gives Lightroom the appearance of a branded studio program.

5. Beware of clipping!

Clipping refers to the loss of detail in light or shadow. Essentially, when you overdo it during post-processing, highlights will be blown out or shadows will lose important detail.

This can also happen during shooting if the image is not exposed correctly, but it also occurs during the processing stage.

This problem can be avoided by pressing the key J on the keyboard while in the module Treatment(Develop). Or click on the small triangles in upper corners Histograms(Histogram) by enabling the function.

The red areas show highlights, and the blue areas show loss of detail in the shadows. Drag the sliders back into their range if you want to avoid incorrect exposure.

6. Drag and organize presets

I love Lightroom presets. These are one-click settings that can be used to stylize or correct images. If your Lightroom catalog is like mine, you've probably accumulated too many presets over time and it might be a good idea to clean them out.

Preset panel items can be dragged and dropped to reorder them and organize them into folders.

Need new folder? Just click right click mouse over the presets panel and select new folder(New Folder). Give it a name and get another group where you can organize the necessary presets.

7. Improve your performance

If Lightroom is slow, I can suggest three ways to fix it:

  1. On the tab Settings > Performance(Preferences > Performance) uncheck Use GPU(Use Graphics Processor).
  2. On the tab Options > File Handling(Preferences > File Handling) increase the size in the field Cache settingsRAW files(Camera Raw Cache). I installed 30 GB for myself.
  3. Run periodically File > Optimize Directory(File > Optimize Catalog).

8. Frame creatively

You probably know that you can enter cropping mode by pressing the key R in the module Treatment(Develop).

However, you may not be aware of the various grids that can be placed over your photo while cropping.

This screenshot demonstrates the different cropping grids. Try them out for more creative framing.

While in trimming mode, press O, scrolling different variants. They can offer great ideas, how to crop your photos in an unusual way. Try placing key parts of the photo at the intersection of lines to attract the eye.

9. Reduce the effect of presets

We've already talked about organizing presets, but here's a great tip on how to change up how you use them.

There are presets that I love, but I want to loosen them up. Instead of full strength effect, it would be nice to be able to apply it as a layer in Photoshop and reduce the opacity.

This is exactly why The Fader plugin was invented. Download it and then go to the menu File > Plugin Manager(File > Plug-In Manager) to install.

After installation, go to the menu File > Connect additional devices >TheFader(File > Plug-in Extras > The Fader) after starting to use new plugin. You can select a preset from the drop-down list and apply it. Shrink Slider Opacity(Opacity) by adjusting the strength of the effect.

10. Automatically hide panels

I do most of my editing work on a tiny laptop screen, so free place- This constant problem. It's hard to give enough space to a photo with everyone control panels, which Lightroom has.

Right-click on the photo feed, as well as on the left and right panels, selecting Automatically hide and show(Auto Hide & Show). This will hide the panels, leaving more space for your shots. When you need the panel, just point it at the desired angle and it will appear.

Once your photo is in Lightroom, the default conversion (processing) settings are applied to it. Many people are not satisfied with these settings, and they often ask the question: “Why, after importing, did the photos become gray and ugly?” Today I will tell you how to deal with this!

By default, photos in Lightroom come out with less contrast and saturation than in a camera. This is why many people think that the program has “ruined” the photos, that they have become worse.

Actually this is not true. It is enough to add contrast and saturation, and everything will fall into place. And to get a picture that replicates what you saw on the camera screen, you need to select the appropriate camera profile in the Camera Calibration panel (usually Camera Standard):

How do I set default settings?

One way is to use a preset when importing photos. You can download my version of this preset.

But what to do if you are importing photos from different cameras, or if you want to use different settings noise reduction depending on ISO when shooting? Default settings need to be changed!

First, open the program settings (File -> Prefences…). You can do this using shortcut key Ctrl+, (full list of keyboard shortcuts). Let's go to the Presets tab and set how the defaults will be saved:

The next step is to select photos that will have default settings. If both checkboxes are checked, then you will have to look for frames from each camera and at each possible ISO value; if both checkboxes are unchecked, then one photo will be enough.

Switch to processing mode with a shortcut key D. In order not to accidentally save anything unnecessary, we reset all processing with the Reset button in the lower right corner or using the shortcut key Ctrl+Shift+R.

Now all that remains is to set the desired conversion settings and save them as default settings. To do this you need to press Alt key(Opt on Mac) and Reset button will turn into Set Defaults..:

When you press the button, a window pops up specifying for which camera and ISO the settings will be saved (if the corresponding boxes are checked):

Here you can reset the defaults to factory values.

That's all! That's it new imported photos will have these processing settings without using presets! Please note that this does not apply to cards already in the catalog.

What settings should I set by default?

Everyone must answer this question for themselves. There are no universal recipes; everyone has their own tastes.

If you want to get as close as possible to the vision of the camera manufacturer, select the Camera Standard profile by default, in the Tone Curve area – Strong Contrast, Vibrance+10, Clarity+10. Also don't forget about noise reduction and sharpening in the Details area. The beauty of Lightroom is that we can apply both at once, without thinking about the processing order!


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