Adobe lightroom options. Setting up, optimizing Adobe Lightroom and some practical tips

I use several versions of Lightroom installed simultaneously on my computer running Window OS. Different versions have slightly different functionality, or different methods for implementing the same functions. Depending on the situation, I choose the version I need. Here are screenshots based on a fairly old one. Lightroom versions 3.7. I have all versions of Lightroom without Russification, since this is not important to me.

Behind for a long time working with the program, I developed my own algorithm for working in Lightroom, which I almost always use. My 5 simple tips will help as much as possible only to those who film in RAW format and develops photographs in batches.

To thoughtfully develop each photo in RAW format individually, I recommend using original (i.e. native) software. For example, for the Nikon system this is .

0 (zero point). Importing RAW files.

The essence of the action: prepare working space for further manipulations with files.

This is the zero, additional point from which work with Lightroom always begins. To start processing photos, you must first import them into the program. I use a quick and simple download: I simply drag all the files into the Lightroom window with the mouse and press the ‘Import’ button. I always import from a directory located on my hard drive. If you import from a flash drive, the import process will be delayed, since the program will most likely first copy all the source files to its special directory.

Import has its own peculiarities. When photos are imported into Lightroom, you can sometimes notice how the picture preview(preview) changes its color, saturation, exposure. This is due to the fact that each RAW file contains not only the original information about the image, but also many other additional data. One of such data is photo previews for quick view. Roughly speaking, the RAW file has a built-in thumbnail in the format, which is used for quick viewing photograph taken on the camera display. This JPEG thumbnail is based on the settings specified by the camera. When importing photos into Lightroom, the program displays JPEG thumbnails extracted from the RAW file. After attempting to take a closer look at the photo, Lightroom constructs (renders) a new image directly from the original raw data, using its own presets. Lightroom presets and JPEG thumbnails do not match, which is why the original picture changes before your eyes.

Unfortunately, it is very, very difficult to get Lightroom to accurately replicate all the camera settings. In fact, it is impossible to repeat all the camera settings. Only native software can display a RAW image on a computer in full compliance with what can be seen on the camera display. But in order to minimize the differences between how the picture looks on the camera display and in the program window, I recommend turn off everything in the camera additional functions , which improve the image. For the Nikon system, this primarily concerns the Active function.

All improvements must be made using Lightroom. It makes sense to use on-camera functions to improve the image only when shooting in the format, or if RAW files will be processed using native software.

After import, you can add tags, labels, correctly catalog a series of pictures, and configure the sorting of photos in your feed.

Also, you can import immediately using a specific preset, into which you can write the settings listed below.

1. I set the camera profile.

The essence of the action: basic setting for the most correct/beautiful rendering of the original RAW file.

The setting is located at Develop -> Camera Calibration -> Profile -> select the desired profile

In order for the image generated in Lightroom to be as similar as possible to the one displayed on the camera display, Lightroom needs to specify the correct camera profile. In short, a camera profile is a photo management mode that is set on the camera (neutral, saturated, monochrome, etc.).

This is the key point. The correct camera profile allows you to significantly improve the visual perception of the image. Finding a good profile for a specific camera is very, very difficult.

Lightroom usually has a set basic profiles: neutral, saturated, portrait, etc. These profiles very loosely correspond to similar profiles that are set on the camera.

You can search for a profile for your specific camera yourself. Typically, third-party developers create profiles. I'm sure for large quantity cameras, you won’t be able to find a good profile. In this case, you will need to choose the profile that you like the most.

An existing profile can be modified, namely, the color shift in the shadows, offset and saturation of each of the three main channels can be adjusted. After which, you can create a custom preset, writing into it only changes relating to Camera Calibration (when creating a preset, you should only select the ‘Calibration’ checkbox).

2. I set the lens profile.

The essence of the action: get rid of lens shortcomings.

The function is set as follows Develop -> Lens Corrections -> Profile -> Enable Profile Corrections

Everything is simple here. By choosing a lens profile, you can completely get rid of some of the lens' shortcomings. In general This setting allows you to completely cure and. Also, lenses are treated here. Lightroom has an extensive database of lenses, with which you can “cure” any of them.

If the lens you are using is not in the list, you can correct these parameters manually, and then write the result into a preset that can be applied to all photos.

After this adjustment, the distortions introduced by the lens should be leveled out.

In the future, the lens profile will be applied to each photo.

3. I optimize and expand the capabilities of the camera and lens.

The essence of the action: make the most beautiful/desired image possible through basic exposure and color manipulations.

Everything is very simple here. I usually choose one key photo from a series or even from an entire shoot and adjust it according to basic parameters:

• Increasing DD - restoration of lights and shadows (Highlight recovery, Fill light, Dark)
• Adjusting Vibrance
• Increasing saturation (Saturation)
• Clarity Enhancement
• Sharpening
• Noise reduction

The main thing here is not to overdo it. I try to make the photo “neutral positive” so that all further manipulations are based on the original “normal” image.

Important: The level of a particular setting greatly depends on the camera used and the frames directly taken. For example, I clearly know and understand how much influence this or that slider in Lightroom has on the RAW files of my cameras, but it takes a long time to get used to a new camera and processing its RAW files.

In the future, these settings will be applied to each photo.

4. I synchronize all images using one key photo.

The essence of the action: bring all images under one basic view.

After all the previous manipulations, I synchronize all the photos with the changed settings. This is done very simply. In the 'Develop' section, select all photos in the feed (CTRL+A) and press the 'Sync' button. In the synchronization menu, I click the ‘Check All’ button, then uncheck the ‘White Balance’ (), ‘Crop’, ‘Spot Removal’ checkboxes. The captured parameters should not be synchronized, since each photo has its own individual cropping and spot correction/restoration.

Synchronization is part of batch processing. At the end of it, all photos are adjusted to similar settings.

After this manipulation in the Lightroom feed, all the photos are more or less brought back to normal. The previous four points allow you to “bring images to zero” - to rid them of the shortcomings of the lens and camera and to push the capabilities of the RAW file to the limit. After these four manipulations, you can begin the real fine processing and prepare the image for the final stage that the client will see.

5. I crop all the photos.

The essence of the action: correct cropping flaws - level the horizon, crop the photo with the correct arrangement of details in the frame, cut out key parts of the photo.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to crop one photo and apply cropping to all photos in the feed. After synchronizing the basic settings I crop all photos. During the cropping operation, I also selectively delete bad pictures from the Lightroom feed.

Important: I highly recommend cropping photos with fixed aspect ratios. The proportions of the classic frame are 3:2. After cropping, all photographs have the same frame proportions and do not differ in any way during viewing. If this is not done, then after cropping you may end up with square photographs and very elongated stripes. This does not correspond to the general style of the photo feed. In addition, during printing, there is a 100% probability that parts of the frame will be cut off or filled with white space. Usually printed on standard sizes, which also correspond to the 3:2 aspect ratio. For almost every shoot, I print photographs or edit a photo book; maintaining proportions after cropping is very important to me. To maintain crop proportions in Lightroom, just click on the padlock icon.

After cropping and deleting unsuccessful frames, I have a “polished” set of photos in my feed that can be further manipulated.

Important: I call all specified actions ‘ Go to Zero’, since these simple manipulations allow you to look at an image devoid of basic shortcomings, raw, neutral, like a blank sheet, looking at which you can already carry out further fine processing.

I believe that these manipulations can improve the quality of the original image by 30%. The remaining 60% is the finalization of the image using Adobe Photoshop (Photoshop, not Lightroom).

In my practice, it often happens that after completing just these five points, you can already get an image option that can satisfy both me and my clients. Most often, processing is limited to just these five points, unless there is a need to retouch photographs (eliminating skin imperfections, working with plastic, artistic color correction, etc.).

For me, the most difficult thing in processing is, after bringing all the photographs from a series/shooting into a digestible form, choosing the best ones for fine-tuning them.

6. I export all photos (bonus point)

The essence of the action: get a finished result that can be viewed by any user/client on any device.

In this case, export is the process of exporting photos from RAW format into a format that is suitable for further processing or viewing. If I plan to do nothing else, then I export to the pop format. If I plan to further modify photographs in Adobe Photoshop, then I use the 'TIFF' or 'DNG' format. Lately I've been feeling lazy; I don't use TIFF and export all my photos directly to .

Eventually My photo processing process is divided into two stages: processing in Lightroom and processing in Photoshop. Lightroom - for basic settings, restoration of “screwed up” pictures, batch processing of photo feeds. Photoshop - for the final “finishing” of photographs, retouching, manipulation of layers, masks, and more.

Philosophy

I am convinced that a photographer must develop a clear action plan, a clear concept, a well-thought-out methodology with step-by-step photo processing actions. Spent technological process greatly speeds up and simplifies the processing and delivery of finished material to the client.

Bottom line. My basic processing process constructed as follows: import -> set camera profile -> set lens profile -> expand camera/lens capabilities -> synchronize selected settings -> crop -> export. I repeat - this is the basic process, the basis from which my processing begins.

Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

When you open the program for the first time, you will be prompted to create a directory. The Lightroom directory is the place where previews of your raw files, settings and adjustment history, etc. will be stored. By default, directories are created on the system drive in the My Pictures folder.

Disk C is not the most reliable place, because the system (Windows) may crash and directories will be lost. Therefore, we choose Choose a Different Catalog

In this window we select CreateaNewCatalog. Next, select the drive, just not the one on which Windows is installed, for example diskD. I usually call it that, but otherwise it doesn’t matter what you call it.

Congratulations, you have created a Lightroom catalog!

Now you can proceed to the settings, Edit/Preferences

By clicking, you will see this window, be sure to uncheck the item in the General tab Show import dialog when a memory card is detected. Otherwise, every time you insert a flash card into your computer, a Lightroom window will pop up asking you to copy the files. This really annoys me, if it suits you, leave it, but even by copying the files you will not avoid this offer again.

The next very important tab, FileHandling. Change the location of the cache folder from disk WITH, another.

This is what my settings look like. Cache moved to diskD, size increased to 20 gigabytes. It is highly desirable that the cache be located on a high-speed hard drive if you have solid state drives, then it is better to indicate the path there. This will speed up the work

Next setting, This CatalogSettings.

In the first tab, you set the timing for backing up the directory. See to taste, I put it once a week, as indicated below. A little below about why this is so.

Tab FileHanding I leave it unchanged.

Lightroom catalogs “grow” over time to large sizes, which makes work difficult. In this case, click File/Optimize Catalog. Your directory will be compressed, which will improve performance.

If you install a backup directory every time you exit the program ( Everytimeexits), then optimization will occur every time. In this case, the settings will need to be set as in the picture below:

I came up with this algorithm for myself. Backup ( backup) 1 time a week and most importantly, set it up automatic saving settings files next to the ravs (raw).

Some will say that this makes the work of Lightroom more difficult, yes, but not so much that it bothers me. So, the point is that with this I am insuring myself in case, God forbid, such a failure occurs that both the system and the catalogs “fly.”

This is very important in my work. What it looks like below:

We have configured the catalogs, now we move on to loading images for subsequent processing. This is not entirely common. We can't just take and open photographs like, for example, in Photoshop.

Click File/Import Photos and Video or Ctrl+Shift+i

If after clicking you see such a window, then press the button under the red arrow, otherwise go to the next picture.

1. On the left, in this window you will see your drives and folders.
2. Choose the desired folder, thumbnails will appear in the center. You can select all the photos in a folder at once by clicking CheckAll, if you need to select some specific photos, click UncheckAll and select each photo individually. To do this, left-click on the photo and press the spacebar (the longest key, in case someone doesn’t know) on the keyboard.
3. Here we select the preview size, this determines how soon we can start processing. If you have little time to wait, then choose Embedded &Sidecar, this will be an image “embedded” in a raw jpg, it, as a rule, is not processed additionally by lightroom and we minimum term We can start processing photos. 1:1 – This preview is the same size as the size of your matrix and takes longer. if I have free time, I choose this option. And when processing, I have a minimum of waiting from the transition from photo to photo to the processing itself.
4. Apply During Import – here you can select saved preset pressing Develop Settings. And all these photos will appear for processing with the selected settings. For example, if it is some kind of special tinting. You can also apply keywords to all photos, which is especially convenient if you sell your photos on micro-stocks and photo banks.

The Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates item means do not import duplicate images. I don’t check this box, because if you process one photo from a folder, then, after a while, return to this folder and import all the photos, then you will not see the first, previously processed photo, and when exporting (saving) you can overlook it.. How be it for you, decide for yourself :)

Click Import ivo tab Library, you will only see the added photos. Processing occurs in the mode Develop.

Rustam Shanov

Once your photo is in Lightroom, the default conversion (processing) settings are applied to it. Many people are not satisfied with these settings, and they often ask the question: “Why, after importing, did the photos become gray and ugly?” Today I will tell you how to deal with this!

By default, photos in Lightroom come out with less contrast and saturation than in a camera. This is why many people think that the program has “ruined” the photos, that they have become worse.

Actually this is not true. It is enough to add contrast and saturation, and everything will fall into place. And to get a picture that replicates what you saw on the camera screen, you need to select the appropriate camera profile in the Camera Calibration panel (usually Camera Standard):

How do I set default settings?

One way is to use a preset when importing photos. You can download my version of this preset.

But what to do if you import photos from different cameras, or if you want to use different settings noise reduction depending on ISO when shooting? Default settings need to be changed!

First, let's open the program settings (File -> Prefences...). You can do this using shortcut key Ctrl+, (full list of keyboard shortcuts). Let's go to the Presets tab and set how the defaults will be saved:

The next step is to select photos that will have default settings. If both checkboxes are checked, then you will have to look for frames from each camera and at each possible ISO value; if both checkboxes are unchecked, then one photo will be enough.

Switch to processing mode with a shortcut key D. In order not to accidentally save anything unnecessary, we reset all processing with the Reset button in the lower right corner or using the shortcut key Ctrl+Shift+R.

Now all that remains is to set the desired conversion settings and save them as default settings. To do this, you need to hold down the Alt key (Opt on a Mac) and the Reset button will turn into Set Defaults..:

When you press the button, a window pops up specifying for which camera and ISO the settings will be saved (if the corresponding boxes are checked):

Here you can reset the defaults to factory values.

That's all! That's it new imported photos will have these processing settings without using presets! Please note that this does not apply to cards already in the catalog.

What settings should I set by default?

Everyone must answer this question for themselves. There are no universal recipes; everyone has their own tastes.

If you want to get as close as possible to the vision of the camera manufacturer, select the Camera Standard profile by default, in the Tone Curve area – Strong Contrast, Vibrance+10, Clarity+10. Also don't forget about noise reduction and sharpening in the Details area. The beauty of Lightroom is that we can apply both at once, without thinking about the processing order!

I recently upgraded my skills and translated a masterclass on Adobe Lightroom in a 6-lesson course format. This is a slightly different level of presentation of information, designed for the widest possible audience in terms of starting level of training. In this regard, I decided to write a series of short publications that will be useful to my studio students. And, I hope, not only them.

This publication contains some simple tips on how to make your work in the Develop module (image processing module) as efficient as possible.
But I will do this. Two introductory thoughts:

1. Given the limited size of monitors (especially on laptops), and the fact that having several toolbars on the screen at the same time does not make sense, it is important to keep open only the one you are working with at the moment.

2. The efficiency of work in the converter is higher, the fewer keystrokes/mouse clicks you have to do to achieve the desired result.

The importance of the first consideration is especially evident when working in the Develop module. It contains all the converter tools in the right panel of Lightroom. There are many of them, and for convenience they are grouped on separate tabs: Basic, Tone Curve, HSL, etc. If you open several of them at the same time, they do not fit into the screen size, and to access some tools you have to scroll the image, which noticeably reduces the speed of work.

In addition, this mode is useless, because... It is basically impossible to work on several tabs at once.

To eliminate this, the Lightroom interface has a very convenient feature.
If you right-click on the name of any tab, a menu will open that lists the names of all the tabs with tools available in Lightroom (see Fig. 02). By unchecking the checkbox in front of the name of any of them, you can completely hide it. I just don’t see the point in such an action.

But the "Solo Mode" option, on the contrary, is very useful. Activate it by checking the box in front of the name:

02.

Lightroom will now prevent you from having multiple tabs open at once, and will make it easier to switch between them. For example, if, after working on the Basic tab, you decide to adjust the color in the HSL tab, you just need to click once on the name of the HSL tab. In this case, the previous Basic tab will close automatically, and the required one will open instead - HSL. Those. changing the working tab will be done without scrolling, with one click of the mouse.

In Lightroom, as in Photoshop, there is a very useful ability to save entire sets of settings as so-called. presets (Presets. Analogue in Photoshop - actions (Actions)). Using well-designed presets significantly speeds up your work. In the fifth lesson of the course, we will take a detailed look at creating and organizing presets and their use in editing. But, unlike Photoshop, Lightroom does not allow you to assign a keyboard shortcut to a preset for quick access.

The names of all available presets are grouped in the Presets tab of the left panel of Lightroom:

As a result, when you are going to activate one or another preset when processing a frame, you have to:

1. by clicking the mouse (or pressing the short key from the keyboard) open the left panel;
2. Click to activate the desired preset;
3. Click the mouse (or press the shortcut key from the keyboard) to close the left panel.

Such an abundance of actions is depressing, but the Lightroom interface provides a useful feature - set auto mode opening/closing each of the panels.
By clicking on the very left edge of the screen with the right mouse click, we open a menu (Fig. 04), in which we activate the “Auto Hide & Show” option.

04.

Now, to open the left panel, simply move the cursor to the left edge of the screen. The panel will open automatically, after which you can click the mouse to launch the preset you need. Then move the cursor to the right, and the left panel will automatically close. So, instead of the above three actions you have to do one thing: cursor left -> click on the preset -> cursor right.

The next tip concerns working with the white balance (WB) tool. Lightroom, like other converters, provides two options for changing WB:

1. setting color temperature (Temp) and tint value (Tint) manually;
2. automatic WB correction using a pipette (WB Selector).

Using the eyedropper, click on that part of the image that we assume is neutral in color. After which, Lightroom will automatically try to adjust the image so that the color specified by clicking the eyedropper becomes neutral.

It is extremely rare that you can immediately find a successful fragment of an image, clicking on which will give an acceptable result the first time. Almost always you have to click on the picture several times, and this is where an ambush awaits us: in an unconfigured Lightroom, the WB eyedropper automatically returns to the panel after each click, and for reuse you have to click it again with the mouse. Believe me: this is not childishly infuriating!

To prevent this from happening, with the WB tool active, uncheck the "Auto Dismiss" checkbox in the lower left corner (see Fig. 05). Now, once you take the pipette, you work with it for as long as you need. And only after achieving an acceptable result, “place” it with a mouse click on the place where it is located on the Basic tab.

05.

The following advice, strictly speaking, does not apply to optimization. It's just one of important settings Lightroom, which is undeservedly ignored by many, including teachers who teach how to work in Lightroom. It concerns setting the target color space and bit depth of images at the output of the converter.

In the case where after Lightroom revision is expected in Photoshop:

Preferences window, External Editing tab. I won’t go into overdrive, and I advise you to set the color space to sRGB and the encoding depth to 16 bits (Fig. 06 and 07). These settings are guaranteed to avoid some undesirable situations:

06.

07.

Particularly unfortunate is the combination of ProPhoto RGB's wide coverage and 8-bit encoding depth.

In the case when directly exported from Lightroom final result V JPEG format, there is no need to set the bit depth, because JPEG is always eight-bit. In this case, the parameters specified in the Export window are as follows:

08.

P.S. If JPEGs are being prepared for publication on Facebook, I recommend setting the Quality parameter to 100%, because Facebook always heavily compresses photos (the volume in kilobytes is reduced by about 7 times).

Description of general and hidden settings of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.5. To access the standard program settings, run the command: Edit > Preferences.

Bookmark General.
Language- in this drop-down list, select the interface language, by default it is English. Official Russification at the moment no (there are unofficial ones).
Show splash screen during startup- enable/disable display of the Lightroom logo when the program starts.
Automatically check for updates - automatic check new program updates, disabled by default.
Chapter Default Catalog- here you can select which default directory will be loaded when opening the program. Load most recent catalog - at startup, the catalog with which we last worked is loaded. Prompt me when starting Lightroom - at startup you will be asked which catalog to load. By selecting Other from the drop-down list, you can select any directory from which we would like to always start working.
Chapter Import Options.
Show import dialog when a memory card is detected If you enable this option, then Lightroom will launch every time we insert/connect a memory card (flash drive) with photos.
Select the “Current/Previous Import” collection during import- Lightroom for displaying images, imports them and only then displays them. If the checkbox is unchecked before the item, previously viewed images (before import) will be displayed, thus avoiding any interruption when switching folders/collections.
Ignore camera-generated folder names when naming folders- if you select this item, then the names of the folders created digital camera will be ignored (by default this item is not selected).
Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos - this setting should only be used if you shot in: RAW + JPEG mode. If you put a flag in front of it, both types of files will be imported and placed side by side. If not installed, only RAW files will be imported.
In chapter Completion Sounds You can select sounds that will notify you when import and export are complete. By default, the sound is disabled (No Sound) for the items: When finished importing photos play, When tether transfer finishes play and When finished exporting photos play.

When you click on the Go to Catalog Settings button in the Catalog Settings section, the catalog settings window will also open with several tabs: General, File Handling and Metadata.
Bookmarked General ( General settings catalogue)- information about the location, time of creation and size of the directory is indicated. An important element of this tab is the choice of the frequency of reminders about catalog reservations. IN set time A message will appear indicating that a reservation is required. By pressing the button it will be carried out. As I said, this is extremely important. So take this seriously. You can choose to create backups monthly, weekly, daily during completion Lightroom works and other options. In my opinion, best option- weekly backup. I also recommend that you occasionally manually archive the catalog on a separate medium or in the cloud.
Bookmarked File Handling (file processing) affect the performance of Lightroom, namely the speed and ease of importing, viewing and catalog size. Standard Preview Size – here we select the size of the preview (or rather, the resolution along the long side).
The size of the thumbnail along the long side should slightly exceed the length of the monitor in pixels. For example, if you are working with a FullHD monitor whose resolution is 1920x1080, then standard size thumbnails should be set to 2048 pixels. If you bet more or less, the speed will decrease due to the need to recalculate the picture.
The Preview Quality can be left as medium as the default. This will be enough for viewing. The following Automatically Discard 1:1 Previews setting affects the time after which full-size (same resolution as the source) previews should be deleted. If you shoot a lot, process photos and then never return to processing them, it makes sense to set the minimum time (one day or a week). This will greatly reduce the size of the database and slightly increase the speed. If you shoot a little and/or return to processing images, then it makes sense to leave full-size previews for a long time or not delete them at all. In this case, to speed up work, it makes sense to leave only valuable images in the catalog and delete garbage. This will reduce the size of the database and improve speed.
Bookmarked Metadata metadata settings are located. The first checkbox is responsible for suggesting keywords based on recently entered ones. Let's leave it as it is. Include develop settings in metadata inside... – exif records some data about how the photo was processed.
Automatically write changes into XMP– you should check this box to ensure safe operation.
XMP are files small size, which records information about the applied editing. They are stored next to the sources. If you enable their creation, then if the catalog file is lost, most of the processing information can be restored.
You can skip geotargeting settings. The checkbox next to Write date or time changes into proprietary raw files is responsible for recording the editing time in exif. This function is useful if, for example, your camera clock is set incorrectly. Then the editing time will be recorded according to the time set on the computer.
Bookmark Presets.
Apply auto tone adjustments– when importing, automatic tone correction of the photo is performed. This is an analogue of the Autotone tool in Adobe program Photoshop.
Apply auto mix when first converting to black and white– in Lightroom it is possible to switch a photo to black and white mode by pressing one button. Usually there is a discoloration of the photograph, rather than a full and high-quality translation into black and white image. If this option is selected, a proprietary algorithm is used that enhances some colors (red, blue, magenta) and weakens others (green, yellow, orange). The output result of the conversion will look better.
Make defaults specific to camera serial number -
Make defaults specific to camera ISO settings -

Bookmark External Editing.

Bookmark File Handling.
Chapter Camera raw cache settings raw files) , here you can select the cache location and size. It is better to remove the cache from system disk, and place it on an SSD, for example.
To clear the cache, use the button: Purge Cache.

Bookmark Interface.
The Panels control group contains drop-down lists for End Marks and Font Size. The End Marks drop-down list contains options:
In the Font Size drop-down list, you can select Small (small), which is the default, or Large (large).
The change in font size will be noticeable after restarting Lightroom.

In Lightroom version 6.5.

Bookmark Performance.
Lightroom 6 and higher has started using resources GPU(GPU) to speed up photo processing and viewing. To disable this option, uncheck the box in front of the item: Use Graphics Processor.
Video card requirement: support for OpenGL 3.3 and at least 1GB of video memory.

Click on the button: System Info.

On Mac platform OS X, not supported video cards: NVIDIA GeForce 9400/9400M, NVIDIA GeForce 320M, NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M, NVIDIA GeForce GT 120/GT 130, NVIDIA GeForce 210, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260, NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT, NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT/GS, NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT, NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT, NVIDIA Quadro FX 4800, NVIDIA GeForce NVS 3100M and Intel HD 3000/4000.

*IN AMD drivers Radeon Software Crimson ReLive Edition 17.7.1 fixed problem with program crash Adobe versions Lightroom CC 2015.10 with GPU acceleration enabled.
Bookmark Lightroom mobile.

In Lightroom version 6.5.

Bookmark Network(available in Lightroom 6.5).

The default location of the Lightroom catalog is:
(Windows) C: Users\\My Pictures\Lightroom\Lightroom Catalog.lrcat
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Pictures / Lightroom / Lightroom Catalog.lrcat

Preferences, they are not non-cross-platform:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom\Preferences\Lightroom 6 Preferences.agprefs
*Here you can disable the GPU by entering the following instead of useAutoBahn = true: useAutoBahn = false.
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Preferences / com.adobe.Lightroom6.plist
Startup preferences- it includes the last directory path used, etc.:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom\Preferences\Lightroom 6 Startup Preferences.agprefs
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Application Support / Adobe / Lightroom /Lightroom 6 Startup Preferences.agprefs

Default Presets saving directory:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom\
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Application Support / Adobe / Lightroom /
Develop Defaults, Lens Defaults and Custom Point Curves:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Application Support / Adobe / CameraRaw /
Camera Raw Cache default directory:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Local\Adobe\CameraRaw\Cache\
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Caches / Adobe Camera Raw /
Custom Camera & Lens Profiles:
(Windows) C:\Users\\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\
(Mac) Macintosh HD / Users / / Library / Application Support / Adobe / CameraRaw / CameraProfiles /
To access hidden settings, go to Start and in the search field select %appdata%\Adobe\Lightroom (Windows 7/10).
On Mac OS X Library folder hidden by default. Go to Finder and select Go menu, hold Option key and Library will appear in the menu.
Using the Terminal program, you can enable or disable the display of system and hidden files and folders in Mac OS X. Launch the Terminal program (located in Applications/Utilities):

And enter the command into the terminal window (the defaults write command makes changes to the settings files):
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles -bool true

Press "enter". This command will change Finder settings. You must restart the Finder process for them to take effect. next command: killall Finder and press "enter".

Now hidden files will appear in Finder. Which, for example, will allow you to get to the Camera Raw GPU Config.txt document, which is located at: Libraries > Application Support > Adobe > CameraRaw > GPU.

With the following information:

Or to the well known by Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2016 document Debug Database.txt which is located in the following directory: Libraries > Preferences > Adobe > Lightroom > 6.5. There are currently only four items in it: AddUTCTimestampToTraces, CreateLogFilesThatDoNotExist, DvaMarshalRPCLogging and LogTimeInTicks.

If after work we need to hide them, this is done with the same command, but with the false parameter:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles -bool false
And restart Finder again: killall Finder
To reset settings, when loading the Lightroom CC/6 program, hold down the key combinations: Alt + Shift (Windows) / Option + Shift (Mac). And click on the button: Reset Preferences.