From an old floppy drive - a machine for straightening small drills. Using motors from floppy drives

Once upon a time, I made a machine out of an old “Winchester” for straightening and sharpening small drills, but its minimum rotation speed is too high and usually when you are in a hurry, the drills overheat. I tried to somehow reduce the speed, but nothing good happened, so I left everything as it was, just forcing myself to take my time. And then recently my computer geek friends came and asked, “Look, can you make something useful out of this?” They started dumping a lot of three and a half inch drives onto the table ( Fig.1). And for some reason my first thought was: shouldn’t I try to assemble a new low-speed “edit”...

Without delaying this matter, we immediately remove the covers from several drives different brands and see what's inside.

But inside everything is different and different models of the same brand, motor control can be assembled on one or two microcircuits ( Fig.2).

We look at the details on the boards in more detail and give preference to the option with two microcircuits ( Fig.3) – from the tracks and suitable wires it can be seen that the right ALPS-R SD705A chip (among other things) is responsible for the operation of the stepper motor for moving the read head, and the left LB11813 is only for the operation of the disk rotation motor.

It can also be seen that both microcircuits are connected by only two signal paths - pins 33 and 34 of the large microcircuit go to the 10th and 11th pins connected together and to the 12th pin of the LB11813, respectively.

To be honest, I’ve already had to deal with disk drives before and I already have some idea of ​​the principle of their operation, therefore, having said for greater importance “now we’ll cut something here...”, I carefully cut both of these tracks ( Fig.4).

We leave pin 12 of the LB11813 chip alone, and on the 10th and 11th we need to apply the CLK clock signal. Since its repetition frequency should be about 1 MHz, and the amplitude is standard for five-volt series microcircuits, we assemble a rectangular pulse generator on a K555LN1 microcircuit on a piece of textolite that comes to hand. We install a variable resistor to regulate the frequency and, in its middle position, adjust the output frequency to 1 MHz by selecting the capacitance of the capacitor. Then we connect the generator output to the terminals of LB11813 ( Fig.5), solder the power buses of the disk drive and generator and turn on the power supply. We hear the engine begin to rotate. This is good... Turning the handle variable resistor, we hear how the engine speed changes. And this is good…

The guests, joyful and inspired by the new prospects, rushed home, thinking as they went about how they could use this “miracle of technology,” and I returned to the diagram to see what needed to be left and what to remove, and how to improve it all in the building...

First, armed with a tester, a pencil and a piece of paper, I copied a circuit from the board ( rice. 6). Here, the numbering of the elemental wiring related to the LB11813 microcircuit is left the same, i.e. the one that was on the board.

Then I looked at some specifications. The current consumed from a five-volt power supply at idle is 0.22 A, with an average “load” on the motor shaft it varies from 0.5 A to 0.7 A. Just before the rotation stops, the current reaches a value of 0.85 A. Heating temperature case of the LB11813 chip depends on the load, but in any case does not exceed 50-70 degrees.

The minimum generator frequency at which the engine is still rotating is about 0.45 MHz, the maximum is about 4.6 MHz.

Now I completely disassemble the drive, leaving only two boards connected by 4 colored wires - through them the LB11813 microcircuit controls the motor ( Fig.7). The white eight-wire cable is also not needed - what was interesting on the board with the motor was either a choke or some other element, but very similar to a choke and most likely responsible for controlling the engine speed (i.e. performing the functions Hall sensor) - so you can unsolder it, everything works without it. The remaining conductors of the loop are the common wire, the supply voltage, and also the transmission of signals from the limit switches from the motor board (we solder them too).

“I blow everything off” with a hot air gun unnecessary elements from a large board and cut it so that the mounting holes remain ( Fig.8).

I couldn’t find a ready-made one that was suitable in size, so I took a piece of 16mm chipboard, a thin plastic sheet and a piece of fiberglass from an old printed circuit board. I sawed a little, drilled and secured everything so that it didn’t stick out too much and didn’t take up much space on the table ( Fig.9, Fig.10, Fig.11, Fig.12).

I wired up the printed circuit board for the pulse generator, but haven’t etched it yet - I don’t want to wire up the “bad guy” for the sake of one or two small boards. In the meantime, I installed a prototype version into the case and glued it and the board with the motor drive microcircuit with hot glue. The file of the printed circuit board in the program format is located in the appendix to the article (the view is taken from the installation side of the parts - the drawing must be “mirrored” if necessary).

I did not cover the top of the case with any decorative panel - I left the screw heads exposed. The plastic from which the top cover is made turned out to be very successful - no adhesives from the “Moment” or BF series stick tightly to it, and it practically does not scratch or smear. From the part that remained when cutting out the hole for the rotating surface of the engine, I cut out a ring, which I glued on top to this rotating surface. This ring can be used to glue rings from sandpaper (Fig.13), which, if desired, are quite easy to tear off and there is almost no glue residue left on the plastic surface of the ring. And what remains is scratched off with a fingernail.

Used as a power supply pulse converter, producing 5V/1A from some old office equipment. The power cord is soldered directly into the circuit - this may not be very correct, but the power supply is never lost and then, when replacing it with a new one, you don’t have to figure out where the “plus” and where the “minus” are in the connector.”

There are no switches on the case, nor any indication of voltage supply. The speed control resistor motor is located on the side. Considering that over the past month I had to adjust the drills twice and once sharpen several broken ones of different diameters, and during this time there was never a need to reduce the speed, it turns out that it was possible not to make a smooth adjustment. Set the generator to 4 MHz and that’s it.

Of course, I checked the operation of the circuit with the motor from the hard drive - everything works the same, but with noticeably less power in comparison with control from the “native” controller. This is understandable - the HDD engine requires more high voltage nutrition.

Out of academic interest, I looked at the waveforms in the motor power supply circuits. The figures below show the states on the “phases” U and V relative to the common wire when clock frequency 4.6 MHz ( Fig.14), at 1 MHz ( Fig.15) and on one of the “phases” and the output, designated on the boards as N (“neutral”, presumably) ( Fig.16):

The signals were “recorded” through resistor dividers, so the levels do not correspond to the voltage scale readings, but since the division coefficients were the same and did not change, then the ratios of the levels relative to each other are correct. The time intervals are correct.

Andrey Goltsov, Iskitim

List of radioelements

Bags were made from floppy disks, they were placed as coasters under cups, the metal cores of magnetic disks were turned into parts for the admin tambourine, and magnetic disks used instead of filters to look at the sun. What happened to me when art and geekiness met in my head is written in this post.

I love to draw. I have a great variety of markers, pens and pencils, and at some point I realized that ordinary stands and pencil cases, of which there are many in office supply stores, would not be enough for me. I wanted something of my own and tailored to my needs. It all started when I read a post on life hacker about a pen stand made from floppy disks. It is done very simply - take five floppy disks and interlock with rings to each other. I improved the scheme and did not interlock them, but glued them together. The stand made using this method was later modified by adding a lid with tape to the eraser box.

One stand was not enough, so I made another one, replacing the bottom floppy disk with a CD, this increased stability, and this thing looks good. Later, I made another stand using the old method and glued it to the new one, additionally adding several partitions from the same floppy disks inside. For two years now she has been faithfully serving me on the table.

But this was not enough, and then I began to make more stands. Another CD was added to the CD, thickening the bottom, making it look nice underneath and further improving stability. A piece of paper was placed between the disks to prevent anything from falling out in the center of the “pancake.” To connect the stands to each other, part of the disk was sawed off on both sides. Then I began to immediately file off the corner of the disk and not use extra floppy disks to connect the two stands, and made them immediately interlocked, the wall between the boxes was shared by two. The partitions were designed for different markers, from thick to thin. This is the train that now sits on my desk.

But there were more and more handles and I wanted to make an even more convenient stand. Having taken out a specially purchased box of floppy disks, I decided to make a stand standing at an angle. The technique was the same as the very first time - a box with a bottom made of floppy disk or cardboard (for the original look), separators made of floppy disks, but two more disks were attached to the side, which hold the stand at an angle. The first time I used small self-tapping screws, but even with them I had trouble, the second time I glued them. The stands turned out to be

incredibly convenient and take pride of place near the laptop.

At an angle, the ink deteriorates less and it is more convenient to take out drawing sticks, and the color or thickness is immediately visible.

Now I’m thinking about where to use the old CDs and DVDs, of which I have accumulated a great many. Why not make that same tambourine?

This article was taken from a foreign site and translated by me personally. Contributed this article.

This project describes the design of a very low budget 3D printer that is primarily built from recycled materials. electronic components.

The result is small format printer for less than $100.

First of all, we will find out how it works general system CNC (assembly and calibration, bearings, guides), and then teach the machine to respond to G-code instructions. After that, we add a small plastic extruder and give commands to the plastic extrusion calibration, driver power settings and other operations that will give life to the printer. Following these instructions will give you a small 3D printer that is built with approximately 80% recycled components, which gives it great potential and helps reduce the cost significantly.

On the one hand, you get an idea of ​​mechanical engineering and digital manufacturing, on the other hand, you get a small 3D printer built from reused electronic components. This should help you become more proficient in dealing with problems associated with e-waste disposal.

Step 1: X, Y and Z.

Required components:

• 2 standard CD/DVD drives from an old computer.
• 1 floppy drive.

We can get these components for free by contacting service center repair We want to make sure that the motors we use from floppy drives are stepper motors and not DC motors.

Step 2: Preparing the Motor

Components:

3 stepper motors from CD/DVD drives.

1 NEMA 17 stepper motor what should we buy. We use this type of motor for plastic extruder where there is a lot of force needed to handle the plastic filament.

CNC electronics: PLATFORMS or RepRap Gen 6/7. Important, we can use Sprinter/Marlin Open Firmware. IN in this example We use RepRap Gen6 electronics, but you can choose based on price and availability.

PC power supply.

Cables, socket, heat shrink tubing.

The first thing we want to do is once we have said stepper motors, we can solder wires to them. In this case we have 4 cables for which we must maintain the appropriate color sequence (described in the data sheet).

Specification for stepper motors CD/DVD: Download. .

Specification for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor: Download. .

Step 3: Prepare the Power Supply

The next step is to prepare the power in order to use it for our project. First of all, we connect two wires to each other (as indicated in the picture) so that there is direct supply with a switch on the stand. After that we select one yellow (12V) and one black wire (GND) to power the controller.

Step 4: Checking the Motors and the Arduino IDE Program

Now we are going to check the engines. To do this we need to download Arduino IDE(physical computing environment), can be found at: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.

We need to download and install Arduino 23 version.

After this we must download the firmware. We chose Marlin, which is already configured and can be downloaded by Marlin: Download. .

After we have installed the Arduino, we will connect our computer to the Ramp/Sanguino/Gen6-7 CNC controller using USB cable, we will select the appropriate serial port under Arduino tools IDE / serial port, and we will select the controller type for the board instruments (Ramps ( Arduino Mega 2560), Sanguinololu/Gen6 (Sanguino W/ATmega644P - Sanguino must be installed inside Arduino)).

Basic explanation of the parameter, all configuration parameters are in the configuration.h file:

IN Arduino environment we will open the firmware, we already have the /Sketchbook/Marlin file downloaded and we will see the configuration options before we download the firmware to our controller.

1) #define MOTHERBOARD 3, according to the real hardware we use (Ramps 1.3 or 1.4 = 33, Gen6 = 5, ...).

2) Thermistor 7, RepRappro uses Honeywell 100k.

3) PID - this value makes our laser more stable in terms of temperature.

4) Step by one, this is very important point in order to configure any controller (step 9)

Step 5: Printer. Computer management.

Controlling the printer via a computer.

Software: There are various, free available programs that allow us to interact and control the printer (Pronterface, Repetier, ...) we use the Repetier host, which you can download from http://www.repetier.com/. This easy installation and merges the layers. A slicer is a piece of software that generates a sequence of sections of the object we want to print, associates those sections with layers, and generates G-code for the machine. Slices can be adjusted using parameters such as layer height, print speed, infill, and others that are important for print quality.

Common slicer configurations can be found in the following links:

• Skeinforge configuration: http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge
• Slic3r configuration: http://manual.slic3r.org/

In our case we have a profile configuret Skeinforge for the printer, which can be integrated into the receiving write head software.

Step 6: Adjust Current and Intensity

Now we are ready to test the printer motors. Connect the computer and machine controller using a USB cable (the motors must be connected to the appropriate sockets). Launch Repetier hosting and activate the connection between software and the controller by selecting the appropriate serial port. If the connection is successful, you will be able to control the connected motors using the manual control on the right.

To avoid overheating of engines during regular use, we will adjust the current so that each motor can receive an even load.

To do this, we will connect only one motor. We will repeat this operation for each axis. For this we need a multimeter attached in series between the power supply and the controller. The multimeter must be set to amplifier (current) mode - see figure.

Then we will connect the controller to the computer again, turn it on and measure the current using a multimeter. When we manually activated the motor through the Repetier interface, the current must increase by a certain number of milliamps (which is the current to activate the stepper motor). For each axis, the current is slightly different, depending on the pitch of the motor. You will have to adjust the small potentiometer to control the step interval and set the current limit for each axis according to the following control values:

The board conducts a current of about 80 mA

We will apply 200mA current to the X and Y axis steppers.

400 mA for Z-axis, this is required due to more power to raise the writing head.

400 mA to power the extruder motor, since it is a high current consumer.

Step 7: Creating the Structure Machine

IN following link you will find required templates for lasers that cut out parts. We used 5mm thick acrylic plates, but other materials such as wood can be used, depending on availability and price.

Laser settings and examples for the Auto Cad program: Download. .

The frame design makes it possible to build the machine without glue: all parts are assembled using mechanical connections and screws. Before the laser cut out the frame parts, make sure the motor is well secured in the CD/ DVD drive. You will have to measure and modify the holes in the CAD template.

Step 8: Calibrate X, Y and Z Axis

Although the downloaded Marlin firmware already has a standard calibration for axis resolution, you will have to go through this step if you want to fine-tune your printer. Here they will tell you about microprograms that allow you to set the laser pitch down to a millimeter; your machine actually needs these fine settings. This value depends on the pitches of your motor and the thread size of the moving rods of your axles. By doing this, we will make sure that the machine's movement actually matches the distances in the G-code.

This knowledge will allow you to build a CNC machine yourself, regardless of composite types and sizes.

In this case, X, Y and Z have the same threaded rods so the calibration values ​​will be the same for them (some may be different if you use different components for different axes).

• Pulley radius.
• Steps per revolution of our stepper motor.

Micro-stepping parameters (in our case 1/16, which means that in one signal clock cycle, only 1/16 of the step is executed, giving more high accuracy into the system).

We set this value in the firmware ( stepsper millimeter).

For Z axis:

Using the Controller (Repetier) interface we configure the Z axis, which allows us to move a certain distance and measure the actual displacement.

As an example, we'll command it to move 10mm and measure an offset of 37.4mm.

There is an N number of steps defined in stepspermillimeter in the firmware (X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 2560, EXTR = 777.6).

N = N * 10 / 37.4

The new value should be 682.67.

We repeat this for 3 or 4 times, recompiling and reloading the firmware for the controller, we get higher accuracy.

In this project we did not use the final settings to make the machine more precise, but they can easily be included in the firmware and it will be ready for us.

We are ready for the first test, we can use the pen to check that the distances in the drawing are correct.

We will assemble the direct drive as shown in the picture by attaching the stepper motor to the main frame.

For calibration, the flow of plastic should correspond to a piece of plastic thread and distance (for example 100 mm), put a piece of tape. Then go to Repetier Software and click extrude 100mm, real distance and repeat Step 9 (operation).

Step 10: Printing the first object

The device should now be ready for the first test. Our extruder uses 1.75mm diameter plastic filament, which is easier to extrude and more flexible than the standard 3mm diameter. We will be using PLA plastic, which is a bio-plastic and has some advantage over ABS: it melts at a lower temperature, making printing easier.

Now, in Repetier, we activate the profile slicing that is available for Skeinforge cutting. Download .

We print a small calibration cube (10x10x10mm) on the printer, it will print very quickly and we will be able to detect configuration problems and motor step loss by checking the actual size of the printed cube.

So, to start printing, open the STL model and slice it using standard profile(or the one you downloaded) from Skeinforge cutting: we will see a representation of the sliced ​​object and the corresponding G-code. We heat up the extruder and when it reaches the melting temperature of the plastic (190-210C depending on the plastic grade) we extrude some material (extrusion press) to see that everything is working properly.

We set the origin relative to the extrusion head (x = 0, y = 0, z = 0) and use paper as a separator; the head should be as close to the paper as possible, but not touching it. It will be initial position for extrusion head. From there we can start printing.

One day, while sorting out a box of computer junk, I discovered several drives from old 3-inch floppy disks. At one time, I removed the stepper motors from them, but I didn’t dare throw away the remaining insides. Now my attention was drawn to the motor for rotating the disks. It's done an independent block on a separate printed circuit board together with the drive controller.
The challenge was how to launch it. Finding a solution in Internet networks starting such an engine did not give any positive result. There were many articles on the use of stepper motors to position the magnetic head and practically nothing on starting the “pancake” - the disk rotation motor. The only article found was on English language, but it described a very ancient and specific disk drive... In general, I had to find a way to start it myself.

Where did I start? The control board is connected to a cable of 4-5 colored wires, depending on the type of drive. Two of them supply 12V power (this was not difficult to trace), and are usually black (common) and red (+). The remaining wires, as I assumed, should control the start of the engine and most likely have TTL levels.

I also found two photocells on the board: one on the edge of the board - it detects that the disk is inserted into the receiver; the second photocell is located closer to the center of the engine - it positions starting position disk in which there is a corresponding hole. We are interested in the first (remote) photocell, since when a disk is inserted, the motor already begins to rotate (in the disk drive connected to the computer).
A photograph of the controller with a motor from a TEAC disk drive is shown in Figure 1.

Next, having traced the circuit from the photocell on the board, I found that it goes through a transistor to the control input of the H13431 microcircuit - the motor controller (I found a description of this microcircuit only in Japanese). One of the wires of the input loop is connected to the same transistor through a diode.
Next is a matter of technology. I supplied 12 volts to the board. Through a resistor with a nominal value of 3.3 kΩ, the calculated contact was connected to the power supply plus. ALL!!! The engine started turning!
A fragment of a board with an installed resistor is shown in Figure 2. The leftmost contact is not used (apparently some kind of output signal). Traces of soldering on the board are my mistake: I applied a 12V supply voltage directly to the input contact and burned the transistor, then I acted more carefully - through a resistor with a nominal value of 3.3 kom.

On another drive (Fig. 3) with the name Sankyo and the M51784 controller chip, I followed the same path (a description of this chip is on the website www.datasheetcatalog.com). I found an input contact on the board that goes through a resistor to the control transistor and photocell. I also applied a positive potential to it through a resistor. And silence. I tried to alternately short the remaining two input contacts to ground... It worked!!! I did not find out what kind of contact this was.

An enlarged fragment of the second modified board is shown in Figure 4. The “ground” contact and the contact to the left of it are soldered together. The leftmost contact remained free.

Thus, the procedure for connecting an unknown drive is quite simple:

1. Find the power wires (usually red+ and black-).

2. We are trying to find the circuit of the control transistor and photocell (example diagram in Fig. 5).

3. If the engine does not rotate, we close the remaining contacts to ground (or apply a positive potential to them through a limiting resistor of several kohms).

Further experiments with the engine showed that it is operational in the supply voltage range from 7 to 12 volts. At the same time, its rotation speed is very stable, as it is set by a quartz or piezoceramic resonator. By the way, you can try to set the resonator to a different frequency, thereby changing the rotation speed. On my boards the resonator is made in the form of a plastic rectangle of blue color- it's easy to find.

Application of this engine I leave it to your imagination. Good luck!