Which power supply is best for computer power. How to choose a power supply for your computer without making a common mistake. Power supply efficiency

The power supply is one of the most important parts of a modern PC, especially gaming.
But many devote very little time to choosing it, believing that if it fits into the box and starts the system, then it means it fits and everything is chosen perfectly. Many people manage to look at only two things when choosing it.

1. Low price.(Not more 1000 rub)
2. The number of watts in the power supply.(Of course, the number on the sticker should be higher.) The Chinese love to throw such goodies when in reality the power BP not even close to the number they wrote.

To help you avoid wasting money, I’ll write roughly what you need to look for so as not to make a mistake in your choice. After all, buying cheap Chinese BP can lead to breakdown of all components of a not cheap computer.
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Clause 1.1
1. Don't skimp on the power supply.
2. Choose a manufacturer that has proven itself in the market and in this segment.
For example: Seasonic, Chieftec, HighPower, FSP, CoolerMaster, Zalman

3. Calculate the power consumption of all computer components. (You can find components on the manufacturer’s website, where all the characteristics are usually listed. Or simply by entering it into a search engine.) However, there are many options, the main thing is the desire to find it.
4. After the calculation, add a power reserve to the resulting amount to be sure (in case of errors, etc.). Point 3 can generally be left if you intend to buy a watt right away 800-900 ++.

1. Modular type.

With modular units, you can add and remove cables as desired. I realized how convenient this is after purchasing such a power supply: you can easily remove unused wires until they are needed. And you don’t have to worry about where to screw or wrap these wires so that they don’t interfere. Although this type has a higher price.

2. Standard type.
Cheaper, all wires are soldered directly into the block and cannot be removed.

In principle, if your budget allows, it is better to buy a modular option because of its convenience, although you can choose standard option. To your taste.

:-)
Clause 1.3 There are also differences in the Power Factor Correction - Power Factor Correction: (PFC).
active, passive
1. Passive PFC In passive a conventional choke is used to smooth out voltage ripple. The efficiency of this option is low; it is often used in units of the low price segment.

2. Active PFC
In active In passive used additional fee, representing one more pulse source supply, and increasing the voltage. Which helps to achieve a power factor that is close to ideal, also helps in stabilizing the voltage.
Used in delusional blocks.

Clause 1.4
Standard ATX. The standard indicates the presence of the wires necessary for connection. It's better to take no lower ATX 2.3 since they install additional connectors for video cards 6+6 pin - 6+8 pin, motherboard 24+4+4

Clause 1.5

1. You should always pay attention to the specified block data.
Extremely important! Pay attention to rated power BP, not peak.
Nominal power is the power that is constantly supplied. Whereas the peak one is issued for a short time.

2. Power BP on the channel should be +12V.
Than them more topics better. There are also several channels: +12V1, +12V2, +12V3, +12V4, +12V5.

Example:
1. Power supply from ZALMAN.

It has one +12V line, total 18A and only 216W.
Active PFC is used, which is a big plus.

There are already 2 lines +12V (15A and 16A). Although the manufacturer indicated on the sticker 500 Watt, in "face value" only 460 Watt.
Quite a high-quality block in the budget segment.

3. Another one from ZALMAN.

A reliable power supply is essential for stable operation systems. If the power is not enough, the computer will start to freeze, under load it will show blue screen, and the computer components and the power supply itself will heat up.
Many people often do not have enough power, which can be obtained through the slot; for this they have to use additional power. The video card board has 6-pin and 8-pin connectors. Connectors with this pinout can be found on new power supplies, which means you can connect wires without using adapters. If there are no connectors on the power supply, you will have to use an adapter that will allow you to connect a 4-pin Molex type connector.

For particularly “gluttonous” video cards, it is necessary to use two power connectors at once, which means that powerful block food that can provide proper nutrition for a video card. high-end class already consume up to 400 V, and they need a power supply of 12-18 A over a 12 V channel, and this is only for one video card. Choosing a power supply for gaming computer, you need to look for a power supply that provides at least 25-30 A along the 12 V line.

Don't forget that many power supplies do not meet their stated specifications! This was described in the article.

HD4770/4830/4850/4870/4890. Requirements for power supplies.

Radeon HD 4770. Power consumption (2D) = 152 W, with load in (3D) = 199 W.

Radeon HD 4830. Power consumption (2D) = 140 W, with load in (3D) = 244 W.
A power supply of more than 450 W with one 6-pin connector and more than 550 W in CrossFire is required.
Radeon HD 4850. Power consumption (2D) = 166 W, with load in (3D) = 270 W.
A power supply of more than 450 W with one 6-pin connector and more than 550 W in CrossFire is required.
Radeon HD 4870/4890. A power supply with more than 500 W with one 6-pin connector and more than 650 W with CrossFire is required.

HD5750/5770/5850/5870. Power supply requirements

Radeon HD 5750. Power consumption (2D) = 16 W, with load in (3D) = 86 W.

Radeon HD 5770. Power consumption (2D) = 18 W, with load in (3D) = 109 W.
A power supply of more than 450 W with one 6-pin connector and more than 600 W in CrossFire is required.
Radeon HD 5850. Power consumption (2D) = 27 W, with load in (3D) = 151 W.

Radeon HD 5870. Power consumption (2D) = 27 W, with load in (3D) = 188 W.
A power supply of more than 500 W with one 6-pin connector and more than 600 W in CrossFire is required.

9800GT. Power supply requirements

nVidia GeForce 9800GT. You need a power supply with more than 400 W (via +12V channel - 24A) and 550 W (via +12V channel - 26A) in SLI connection

nVidia GeForce GTX260/275/280/285/295. Power supply requirements

nVidia GeForce GTX 260/275. You need a power supply with a power of more than 500 W (via +12V channel - 38A) and 600 W (via +12V channel - 42A) in SLI connection.
nVidia GeForce GTX280/285. A power supply with a power of more than 600 W (via +12V channel - 40A) and 700 W (via +12V channel - 46A) in SLI connection is required.
nVidia GeForce GTX295. A power supply with a power of more than 700 W (via +12V channel - 40A) and 750 W (via +12V channel - 46A) in an SLI connection is required.

nVidia GeForce GTX465/470/480. Power supply requirements

nVidia GeForce GTX465.
nVidia GeForce GTX470. A power supply with a power of more than 550 W is required.
nVidia GeForce GTX480. A power supply with a power of more than 600 W is required.

Here is another informative article, this time on the topic of hardware. More precisely, about the selection correct block power for your system. Most likely you will think that there is nothing complicated here, you just need to look at the power and choose the manufacturer. But no, this is the most common mistake of all novice users, since when you come home and start connecting a brand new power supply, you may be unpleasantly surprised when you realize that something doesn’t fit. And to avoid such mistakes, I strongly recommend that you read this article.

Let's start with the simplest thing, what is a power supply? A computer power supply is a voltage converter that powers all computer components. DC and the voltage required for each element. A modern power supply should provide voltages of 3.3V, 5V and 12V.

Power. One of the most important points when choosing a power supply, of course, it is correct selection power. If you install a power supply with lower power than your system needs, peak load, this threatens instability of the system and with a high probability of failure of any components. If you install the power supply unreasonably more power, this will affect its efficiency and power consumption will increase. There are quite a few calculators on the web for calculating the power of power supplies, but I recommend using the Asus power calculator, since it is regularly updated and there are always new video cards and processors in its list. You can add 50W to the received power for reserve; I also recommend looking at a power supply not lower than the 80+ Bronze standard (you can read more about the 80 plus standard on wikipedia.org).

Firm. This is somewhat more complicated and it is necessary to seriously study each model, because, as with everything, some models are successful, some are not. Still, I strongly advise against contacting a noname power supply unit, but rather look towards such manufacturers as Thermaltake, Chieftec, Corsair. Personally, I have been buying components from the OGO.ru store for a long time, but first, read the article.

Wires and connectors. Let's move on to the most interesting part. It is because of your inattention to this topic that the purchased power supply may not be suitable. If you pay attention to the characteristics of motherboards, you may notice that the specifications always indicate two important points:
1) Main power connector;
2) Processor power connector.

It is because of inattention to these two points that beginners have problems.

In modern motherboards, the 24-pin main power connector is most often found, but the processor power connector is divided into two types: 8-pin ...

On server motherboards there is also a 20-pin for the main power supply.

A universal option would be to purchase a power supply with a 20+4pin connector for the motherboard, and 4+4pin for the processor. This will allow you to connect this block power supply to any motherboard. But for pure home use Often you can just use 24pin power for the motherboard.

Don’t forget about video cards, since if you have a powerful video card installed, then most likely it requires an additional 6-pin power supply, sometimes even 6+6pin. That is, two connectors of 6pin each. Quantity is also important hard drives And optical drives, since all modern hard drives and drives are supplied with power from a Sata connector. Although, if you old computer, then you should pay attention to IDE and Floppy connectors.

So, when choosing a power supply, the second most important thing is to select connectors that suit your build. system unit:

To summarize, we can say that you should carefully read the specifications of the motherboard and video card, look at the dimensions of the case and the location of the power supply in it so that the wires are long enough to reach all the elements. Plus, you can choose a power supply with detachable cables, this will free up some space in the case by disconnecting unnecessary wires.

In passive(Power factor Correction). Translated as "compensation" reactive power" I recommend choosing a power supply with Active PFC. This will reduce interference in the network, it will also stabilize the incoming voltage and the power supply will be much less sensitive to voltage drops. This essentially allows the power supply to be used in a universal voltage range of 110-230V.

PSU cooling. It is desirable that the fan be at least 120mm in diameter, but this condition is met in almost all power supplies.

That's all. You can safely go to the catalog of the OGO.ru online store and choose the power supply that suits you.

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Which power unit will do For NVIDIA video cards GeForce GTX 1050 / GTX 1050 Ti and AMD Radeon RX 460 / RX 560 / RX 550? How to choose a compatible model? What power should it be? Is a budget power supply enough for these video cards? You will find answers to all the above questions below. Here we look at inexpensive power supplies under $50.

How many watts does GeForce GTX 1050 / 1050 Ti and Radeon RX 560 / 460 / 550 need?

The answer is simple - 75 W. This is exactly how much, according to GPU manufacturers, video cards based on them consume. Here are the power consumption values ​​of modern gaming video cards:

• Radeon RX 550- 50 W
• Radeon RX 460 / 560, GeForce GTX 1050 (Ti)- 75 W
• Radeon RX 470 / 570, GeForce GTX 1060 - 120 W
• Radeon RX 480, GeForce GTX 1070 - 150 W
• GeForce GTX 1080 - 180 W
• Radeon RX 580 - 185 W

For comparison, here is the power consumption of NVIDIA video cards released at the end of 2010 - beginning of 2011:

• GeForce GTX 550 Ti - 116 W (almost the same as RX 570 / GTX 1060)
• GeForce GTX 560 - 150 W (same as RX 480 / GTX 1070)
• GeForce GTX 560 Ti - 170 W (almost the same as RX 580 / GTX 1080)
• GeForce GTX 570 - 219 W
• GeForce GTX 580 - 244 W
• GeForce GTX 590 - 365 W (2xGPU)

As you can see, the new products are very energy efficient compared to solutions from 6 years ago. Therefore, the requirements for the power supply are lower, especially when it comes to video cards with a TDP within 75 W, which often do not even require additional food.

What should be the power of the power supply?

Somewhere from 350 to 500 W, depending on the manufacturer and specific model the power supply itself, as well as the type of processor and the degree of overclocking (if any). But not every source with a declared power rating, for example, 400 W, is suitable for powering a system with a discrete video card. For example, the ExeGate ATX-400NPXE power supply, based on testing by rovers, will be able to deliver about 250 W without overheating and with an acceptable drop on the +12 V line (up to 11.49 V). And this is a solution that costs about $25. That is, it is very likely that other cheaper models from this brand (ExeGate ATX-450NPX, ATX-UN500, ATX-XP500, etc.) are also not suitable for powering a system with GTX video card 1050 (Ti) and RX 460 / 550 / 560. The same applies to other budget devices of the GameMax GM-500 level. In any case, working to the limit is also not acceptable.

Another example that we do not recommend for purchase specifically in in this case- Corsair VS450W model. This is a frankly cheap solution from good manufacturer. Low level Efficiency, drawdown of the 12-volt line below 11.4 V already at a load of 300 W - the model is clearly for office system, but for discrete video card such indicators may not be enough. For $50 it's far from the best option.

So, if the source is purchased for many years, then it would be best to take a closer look at more expensive solutions. But an affordable power supply starting from 30 “green” for undemanding video cards can also be a good companion. Here we will just consider power supplies costing up to 3000 rubles / 50 dollars / 1500 UAH. Well, okay, a couple more that are a little more expensive - just in case.

The bare minimum for purchase is, perhaps, the Q-dion QD450 / QD500, costing about 2,000 rubles. Own experience working with a 400-W solution allows us to recommend purchasing models sold under this brand. But for availability more stock It’s still better to buy a QD450 or QD500.According to the ruovers, the 450-W version coped with a load of 350 W (11.44 V along the 12 V line), and the 500-W version was able to deliver 400 W (the voltage dropped to 11.46 V). Quality element base, apparently, matches the price tag.

+ price, withstands the power of a system with a strong discrete video card

- the element base and circuitry are questionable

Slightly more expensive models are very popular Aerocool VX-450 / VX-550 - sources without input filters and APFC (although the version with the "PLUS" prefix seems to have the latter). Short-lived Chinese electrolytes can also greatly ruin the picture over time. Although at the beginning of operation they show good results. Thus, the 500-W model copes well with the 350-W configuration, while the voltage on the 12 V line sags only slightly (to 11.97 V). And the sound from the turntable is quite quiet.

+ compared to Q-dion QD450 / QD500 not found

- No input filter, APFC module, Chinese capacitors

Some of the most available models from a well-known manufacturer Chieftec GPA-450S / GPA-500S have indicators close to Q-dion QD. So, the 400-W Chieftec GPA-400S solution produces about 280 W, and the 450-W version of the Chieftec GPA-450S produces about 320 W - this is based on the results of roover tests, taking into account permissible value voltages on the output power lines. Here you can also choose more energy-efficient solutions with 80 PLUS certificate: GPA-400S8, GPA-450S8 and GPA-500S8. As for the circuitry, all the components are in their place, but the capacitors are Made in China.

+ presence of all necessary components

- Chinese capacitors

FSP ATX-450PNR / ATX-500PNR / ATX-500PNR-I - and The listed models of the line with the prefixPNRs have an Active PFC module. But the connector for additional power supply for the video card is available only in 500-W solutions, which should be taken into account if you need one. Advantage listed models are good output indicators. So, already a 400-W model can cope with a 300-W load (drawdowns up to 11.55 V), which is already very good. But we still advise you to pay attention to a solution with a power of 450 W or higher. By the way, in all models an electromagnetic filter is in place, but the APFC module is only available in the listed and more powerful ones. The input capacitors are not the worst - they come from Taiwan.

+ Taiwanese capacitors, all components are in place

The 500-watt Zalman ZM500-LE2 is a continuation popular model without the prefix "2", which was reflected in the presence of the APFC node. And here's how it turned out on the element base - alas, on the review network of this device No.

Very interesting models can be called DeepCool DN550/DN650 and DeepCool 600/DA650. The former have a full set of elements (however, their quality remains questionable), and at the same time they showed good output voltages. Compared to the above-mentioned ones, the last two generally look like a Mercedes S-Class: 80 PLUS Bronze, 140 mm spinner, a number of protections - all this is already here. But the quality of the element base is again far from being up to par - it was necessary to save on something. They write that it holds voltage perfectly, the cooler does not hum - that’s what you need. However, the 650-W model in the hands of the roovers only coped with the 500-W configuration (drawdown to 11.49 V). Yes, and the squeaking of the throttles (if we interpreted the “hissing” correctly) is also mentioned, which is most likely a consequence of the use of cheap elements. The latter, of course, includes capacitors.

+ a full set of elements, the DA series has a “bronze” certificate, 140 mm fan

- squeak of chokes, quality of capacitors

+ Taiwanese capacitors, all components are in place, low internal heating

- special in their price segment No

Chieftec devices GPS-450A8 / GPS-500A8 / GPS-550A8 is a power supply unit with an efficiency of 80% for 230 V networks, an input filter, an APFC module and a number of protections. They also have an inexpensive element base and several increased level noise. However, even a 500-W model can cope with overclocked quad-core processor and a powerful video card, therefore inexpensive GeForce solution GTX 1050 / 1050 Ti and Radeon RX 550 / 560 / 460 will be capable or less powerful options of this device.

+ capacitors of average quality, all components in place, efficiency about 80%, low heating

Inside Chieftec CPS-400S / CPS-450S / CPS-500SMore expensive and high-quality Taiwanese capacitors are already used, while the efficiency is above 80% and the APFC module has not gone away. Even a 400-W solution is enough to power a 115-W video card, and a 500-W model can also handle a 230-W video adapter (drawdowns up to 11.64 V). Another advantage is the presence of one +12 V line and a number of protections.

+ Taiwanese capacitors, all components are in place, efficiency ranges from 80 to 86%, low internal heating

- there are no special ones in its price segment

Aerocool KCAS-500 / KCAS-600 received an 80 PLUS Bronze certificate, and this speaks not only about high efficiency devices, but also about the ability to work in networks with saggy voltage. Unfortunately, the quality of the capacitors used in its composition leaves much to be desired. According to ixbt.com tests, the output parameters are also not outstanding. Already with a load of over 325 W, the voltage along the 12 V line sagged by 5% and below the permissible norms. Ruovers talk about 11.54 V at a load of 400 W. Except that everyone praises CO devices in the range up to 350 W. But this is clearly not enough to recommend it for purchase.

+ all components in place, 80 PLUS Bronze

- low quality element base, noticeable voltage drops even at relatively low load

is our favorite for the reason that it combines many positive qualities: Efficiency over 80%, quiet 140 mm fan, wires in the form of loops, a number of protections, Taiwanese capacitors, DC-DC converters of the low-voltage part... The list is very impressive, and all this for $50. Another interesting beast is the Zalman ZM500-LX, but there is little information about it on the Internet. The Zalman ZM500-TX will handle a configuration from a powerful overclocked processor and a 115-W video card without any problems or drawdowns, so it can handle solutions at the level of GeForce GTX 1050 / 1050 Ti and Radeon RX 560 / 460 / 550 even more easily, without disturbing noise.

+ all nodes are in place, Efficiency over 80%, 140 mm propeller, cable loops, Taiwanese capacitors,DC-DC converters

- there are no special ones in its price segment

Results

As you can see, the range of power supplies under $50 is actually huge, and we have mentioned only the most popular and interesting (in our opinion) models. To briefly summarize, even the most affordable Q-dion solutions can be good companions for video cards with consumption below 75 W. If the system costs not too much power hungry processor, naturally. But if possible, we advise you to pay attention to more expensive solutions - both more energy efficient and quieter and of higher quality, such as the Zalman ZM500-TX.

But as for little-known or downright cheap brands, as well as the most available solutions from some well-known manufacturers, then in both cases you can find models that are best avoided. For example, the same Cooler Master Thunder 450W and Thermaltake LT-500 EU “hold” up to 250-300 W, after which there are too large voltage drops. The brands seem to be good, but the power supplies do not at all meet expectations, much less the declared power. Therefore, we advise you to choose models from those described in the material. All the best!

P.S. It was not possible to describe all the models in the entry-level price range due to the inability to embrace the immensity. But if you know about other relatively affordable and worth attention(or vice versa, completely frightening) power sources - be sure to write in the comments.

4 comments:

All of the above-described power supplies up to the Zalman ZM500-TX are not power supplies for a gaming PC, or for PCs in general. This is outright slag. It is simply not recommended for purchase. It would be a stretch to call the Zalman ZM500-TX a power supply for a gaming PC. I would not recommend it as a power supply for a gaming PC. For an entry-level gaming PC with modern components, you should pay attention to models from be quiet BN259 (550W System Power B8 80+) and higher. BN259 is cheap (within 50-55 euros), absolutely quiet, high-quality and cheerful. It will delight you for 10 years until it becomes obsolete. Perhaps the 50-euro blocks are better, and I don’t even know. Anything below this level is simply SLAM, especially since everything described in this article is simply not suitable for a gaming PC.

Answer Delete

Answers

"For an entry-level gaming PC with modern components, you should pay attention to models from be quiet BN259 (550W System Power B8 80+) and higher"
Explain to me, dear fellow, why does a system that consumes 200 W (65 W percent, 75 W video card, 60 W for motherboard, storage, RAM, etc.) need a 550 W power supply? And why can’t a budget (not no-name, of course) power supply be able to pull it off? You offer to buy a power supply unit for $70 (that’s how much it costs in the nearest store), which not everyone can afford. The article shows that many inexpensive solutions will be able to perform this function within a couple of years, that is, longer than such a configuration will be relevant. Yes, of course not 10 years, but do you know how much a gaming PC will consume in 5 years? Me neither. Therefore, if you fundamentally do not buy inexpensive sources, this does not mean that everyone will do the same. However, the article is of a recommendatory nature, drawing attention to the key indicators that you should look at when choosing a power supply.
"All of the above-described power supplies up to the Zalman ZM500-TX are not power supplies for a gaming PC, or indeed for a PC in general."
Well, yes, this is a power supply for a steam locomotive :)

Delete

1. Dear admin, I in no way wanted to belittle you or beg your competence. The article is correct, but it is of a recommendatory nature, so with my post I wanted to supplement your recommendations, based on more than 20 years of experience in assembling and operating PCs. I will try to expand these recommendations in more detail and answer your questions:
   1. “Explain to me, dear fellow, why a system that consumes 200 W (65 W percent, 75 W video card, 60 W for motherboard, storage, RAM, etc.) needs a 550 W power supply?”
   Let me explain, gaming PCs are mainly used for home use. This power supply unit is the part that is the least obsolete morally, therefore it makes sense to take a high-quality power supply unit, and with a reserve, since today a person uses a “vegetable” card and so on, and tomorrow he wants something more productive, and upgrade the power supply may limit his budget again. And yes, you and I have different concepts of what a “GAMING PC” is. A PC that consumes 200 watts in games can only be called a gaming PC. More precisely, according to the classification, it will most likely be an office or multimedia PC, with the ability to sometimes play something very old. So let's call everything by its proper name.
   2. “The article shows that many inexpensive solutions will be able to perform this function within a couple of years, that is, longer than such a configuration will be relevant.” -
   The answer to this question also follows from the first point. We give recommendations for a home gaming PC, and therefore the relevance of the power supply, even after 5 and 10 years, is exactly the recommendation that is appropriate here. Therefore, no dishonest manufacturers who do not meet their specifications even in terms of wattage. Among honest, normal manufacturers you can also find high-quality and inexpensive power supplies, the same Xilence Performance C 400W, or Antec VP400PC 400W, here you have an honest and high-quality power supply within 25 euros.
   3. For a home PC, I always recommend buying a power supply for exactly 10 years, and no less. And yes, in my home and in my clients’ homes, 10-year-old power supplies are still running in some PCs.
   3. “So just because you don’t buy inexpensive sources on principle doesn’t mean everyone will do the same.”
   - no, I also buy inexpensive PBs if they order an office or multimedia computer, but only from good manufacturers, and not OEM, and especially not China. But for anyone aspiring to a “GAMING” computer, I recommend only good manufacturers and a minimum of 500 Watt. Let it be better with a little extra than with the next upgrade you will have to fork out more for a power supply unit. And it’s better to overpay 5-10 euros for a power supply from a good manufacturer, than then, when the power supply fails, it will take half of the PC with it to the trash, this especially affects all sorts of FSP, LC Power, as well as manufacturers who do not produce anything themselves, but use OEM their Chinese manufacturers are the same Zalman or Chieftec.
   4. “...Zalman ZM500-TX... Well, yes, this is a power supply for a steam locomotive :)” - the answer and comments to this expression follow from paragraph 4.))). Zalman is a good manufacturer of coolers. His attempts to prove himself in the power supply market and make more profit under the brand name of a well-promoted brand are quite understandable, but the use of only OEM is not clear Chinese manufacturers. Let Zalman continue to make coolers and cases.)))

   PySy. Admin, excuse me, but I’m most likely an admin with much more experience in PCs than you (I’ve been working with computers since 1991), and I long ago came to the conclusion that I’m not the best person in PCs, and not my mother. main detail, namely the POWER SUPPLY is the most important part in a PC, and therefore you must be very scrupulous in choosing a power supply for your computer. And the approach to choosing a power supply according to the residual budget principle is fraught with the fact that the budget may have to be supplemented due to the imminent release of important components due to a low-quality or semi-high-quality power supply.

   Delete

2. Admin, don't be offended, I don't want to criticize your article in any way. The article is correct. Everything must be balanced, and this is correct according to by and large. I just wanted to supplement it for you and suggest that you reconsider some of the manufacturers listed in it. Bye. Regards, Alexey.

   Delete

The power supply supplies electricity to all other components. The stability and reliability of the system depends on it, so you shouldn’t skimp or be careless in your choice. A failure of the power supply often threatens the failure of other parts. In this article we will analyze the basic principles of choosing a power supply, describe their types and name several good manufacturers.

Nowadays there are many models on the market from different manufacturers. They differ not only in power and the presence of a certain number of connectors, but also have different sizes fans, quality certificates. When choosing, you need to consider these parameters and a few more.

Calculation of the required power supply power

The first step is to determine how much electricity your system consumes. Based on this, you will need to select suitable model. The calculation can be done manually; you only need information about the components. HDD consumes 12 Watt, SSD – 5 Watt, die random access memory in the amount of one piece – 3 Watts, and each individual fan – 6 Watts. Read about the capacities of other components on the manufacturer’s official website or ask salespeople in the store. Add about 30% to the result to avoid problems with a sharp increase in electricity consumption.

Calculation of power supply power using online services

There are special websites for power supply power calculators. You will need to select all installed components system unit so that the optimal power is displayed. The result takes into account an additional 30% of the value, so you don't have to do it yourself as described in the previous method.

There are many online calculators on the Internet, they all work on the same principle, so you can choose any of them to calculate power.

Availability of 80 plus certificates

All quality blocks are 80 plus certified. Certified and Standard are assigned to entry-level units, Bronze and Silver - intermediate, Gold - high class, Platinum, Titanium – the most high level. Entry-level computers designed for office tasks, can work on entry-level power supplies. Expensive hardware requires more power, stability and security, so it would be wise to look at the high and top level.

Power supply cooling

Fans are being installed various sizes, the most common are 80, 120 and 140 mm. The middle option performs best, makes virtually no noise, and cools the system well. Such a fan is also easier to find a replacement in the store if it fails.

Connectors present

Each block contains a set of mandatory and additional connectors. Let's take a closer look at them:

1. ATX 24 pin. Available everywhere in quantities of one piece, it is necessary to connect the motherboard.
2. CPU 4 pin. Most units are equipped with one connector, but there are also two. Responsible for powering the processor and connects directly to the motherboard.
3. SATA. Connects to hard drive. In many modern blocks There are several separated SATA cables, which makes it more convenient to connect several hard drives.
4. PCI-E required to connect a video card. Powerful hardware you will need two such connectors, and if you are going to connect two video cards, then buy a unit with four PCI-E connectors.
5. MOLEX 4 pin. Old hard drives and drives were connected using this connector, but now they have their uses. Additional coolers can be connected using MOLEX, so it is advisable to have several of these connectors in the block, just in case.

Semi-modular and modular power supplies

In conventional power supplies, the cables are not disconnected, but if you need to get rid of unnecessary things, we recommend paying attention to modular models. They allow you to temporarily disconnect any unnecessary cables. In addition, there are semi-modular models, in which only part of the cables are removable, but manufacturers often call them modular, so you should carefully read the photographs and check with the seller before purchasing.

The best manufacturers

SeaSonic has established itself as one of the best manufacturers power supplies on the market, but their models are more expensive than their competitors. If you are willing to pay a premium for quality and be sure that it will work reliably for many years, take a closer look at SeaSonic. It is impossible not to mention the well-known brands Thermaltake and Chieftec. They make great models in accordance with the price/quality and are ideal for a gaming computer. Breakdowns are very rare, and there are almost no defects. If you are looking at a budget, but quality option, then Coursar and Zalman companies are suitable. However, their cheapest models are not particularly reliable and build quality.

We hope that our article helped you decide on the choice of a reliable and high-quality power supply that would be ideal for your system. We do not recommend purchasing a case with a built-in power supply, since most often unreliable models are installed in them. Once again, I would like to note that you don’t need to save money on this; it’s better to look for a more expensive model, but be confident in its quality.