What LEDs are used in LED lamps. Types of modern lamp bases. Design of LED lamps

For many years now we have been using ordinary lamps incandescent for lighting a home, apartment, office or industrial plant. However, every day electricity prices are rising rapidly, which forces us to give preference to more energy-efficient devices that have high efficiency, long term services and capable of creating the necessary luminous flux with minimal costs. These devices include 220-volt LED lamps, the advantages of which we will try to fully reveal in this article.

Attention! This publication provides examples of circuits powered by a life-threatening voltage of 220V. Only persons with the necessary education and permits are allowed to assemble and test such circuits!

The simplest scheme

A 220 V LED lamp is one of the types of lighting lamps, the luminous flux in which is created by converting electrical energy into the luminous flux using an LED crystal. To operate LEDs from a stationary household 220 V network, you need to assemble the simplest circuit shown in the figure below.

The circuit of a 220 volt LED lamp consists of an alternating voltage source of 220–240 V, a rectifier bridge for conversion alternating current in constant, limiting capacitor C1, capacitor for smoothing ripples C2 and LEDs connected in series from 1 to 80 pieces.

Principle of operation

When an alternating voltage of 220 V of variable frequency (50 Hz) is supplied to the driver of the LED lamp, it passes through the current-limiting capacitor C1 to rectifier bridge, assembled from 4 diodes.

After this, at the output of the bridge we receive a constant rectified voltage required for the operation of the LEDs. However, to obtain continuous luminous flux, it is necessary to add an electrolytic capacitor C2 to the driver to smooth out the ripples that occur when rectifying the alternating voltage.

Looking at the design of a 220-volt LED lamp, we see that there are resistances R1 and R2. Resistor R2 is used to discharge the capacitor to protect against breakdown when the power is turned off, and R1 is used to limit the current supplied to the light diode bridge when turned on.

Circuit with additional protection

Also in some circuits there is an additional resistance R3 located in series with the LEDs. It serves to protect against current surges in LED circuits. The R3-C2 chain represents a classic low-pass filter (LP).

Circuit with active current limiter

In this version of the circuit, the current-limiting element is resistance R1. Such a circuit will have a power factor or cos φ close to unity, unlike previous options with a current-limiting capacitor, which are a reactive load. The disadvantage of this option is the need to dissipate a significant amount of heat on resistor R1.

To discharge the residual voltage of capacitor C1 to zero, resistor R2 is used in the circuit.

Installation of LED lamps for 220V AC circuits

LED light bulbs consist of the following components:

1. Base (E27, E14, E40 and so on) for screwing into the socket of a lamp, sconce or chandelier;
2. Dielectric gasket between the base and the housing;
3. A driver on which a circuit is assembled to convert alternating voltage into a constant voltage of the required value;
4. A radiator that serves to remove heat from the LEDs;
5. A printed circuit board onto which LEDs are soldered (sizes SMD5050, SMD3528, and so on);
6. Resistors (chips) to protect LEDs from pulsating current;
7. Light diffuser to create a uniform light flux.

How to connect 220 volt LED lamps

The biggest trick when connecting 220 V LED lamps is that there is no trick. The connection is exactly the same as you did with incandescent lamps or compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). To do this: turn off the power to the base, and then screw the lamp into it. When installing, never touch the metal parts of the lamp: remember that sometimes careless electricians can pass zero through the switch instead of a phase. In this case, phase voltage will never be removed from the base.

Manufacturers have released LED analogues of all previously produced types of lamps with a variety of sockets: E27, E14, GU5.3 and so on. The installation principle for them remains the same.

If you bought an LED light bulb designed for 12 or 24 Volts, then you cannot do without a power supply. The light sources are connected in parallel: all the “pluses” of the light bulbs together to the positive output of the power supply, and all the “minuses” together to the “minus” of the power supply.

IN in this case, it is important to observe the polarity (“plus” - to “plus”, “minus” - to “minus”), since the LEDs will only emit light if the polarity is correct! Some products may fail if polarity is reversed.

Attention! Do not confuse a DC power supply (power supply) with a transformer. The transformer gives an output AC voltage, while the power source is constant voltage.

For example, you have furniture lighting in the kitchen, wardrobe or other place, made up of 4 halogen lamps power 40 W and voltage 12 V, powered from a transformer. You decide to replace these lamps with 4 LED lamps of 4–5 W each.

Attention! In this case, it is necessary to replace the previously used transformer with a 12 V DC source with a power of at least 16–20 W.

Sometimes similar LED lamps for spotlights in most cases, they are equipped with a power supply at the factory. When purchasing such lamps, you should also consider purchasing a power source.

How to make a simple LED light bulb

In order to assemble an LED lamp, we need an old fluorescent lamp, or rather its base with a base, a long piece of 12 V LED strip,
and an empty aluminum 330 ml can

To power such a lamp, you will need a 12 V DC source of such a size that it can fit inside the can without any problems.

So, now the production itself:

1. Wrap the ribbon around the jar as shown in the picture.
2. Solder the wires from the LED strip to the output of the power supply (PS).
3. Solder the IP input with wires to the base of the lamp base.
4. Securely secure the source itself inside the jar, having previously cut a hole large enough to allow the power source to pass inside.
5. Glue the can with tape to the base of the body with the base and the lamp is ready.

Of course, such a lamp is not a masterpiece of design art, but it is made with your own hands!

The main malfunctions of 220 volt LED lamps

Based on many years of experience, if a 220 V LED lamp does not light, then the reasons may be as follows:

1. Failure of LEDs

Since in an LED lamp all the LEDs are connected in series, if at least one of them goes out, the entire lamp stops lighting due to an open circuit. In most cases, LEDs in 220 lamps are used in 2 sizes: SMD5050 and SMD3528.

To eliminate this reason, you need to find the failed LED and replace it with another one, or install a jumper (it is better not to abuse jumpers - as they can increase the current through the LEDs in some circuits). When solving the problem using the second method, the luminous flux will decrease slightly, but the light bulb will begin to shine again.

To find a damaged LED we need a power source with low current(20 mA) or multimeter.

To do this, we apply “+” to the anode and “–” to the cathode. If the LED does not light up, it means it is faulty. Thus, you need to check each of the lamp LEDs. Also, a failed LED can be identified visually; it looks something like this:

The cause of this failure in most cases is the lack of any protection for the LED.

2. Failure of the diode bridge

In most cases, with such a malfunction, the main reason is a manufacturing defect. And in this case, the LEDs often “fly out”. To solve this problem, you need to replace the diode bridge (or bridge diodes) and check all the LEDs.

To check the diode bridge you need a multimeter. It is necessary to apply an alternating voltage of 220 V to the bridge input and check the voltage at the output. If it remains variable at the output, then the diode bridge has failed.

If the diode bridge is assembled on separate diodes, they can be unsoldered one by one and checked with a device. A diode must pass current in only one direction. If it does not pass current at all or does pass it when a positive half-wave is applied to the cathode, then it is out of order and requires replacement.

3. Poor soldering of lead ends

In this case, we will need a multimeter. You need to understand the LED lamp circuit and then check all points, starting with the input voltage of 220 V and ending with the LED outputs. Based on experience, this problem is inherent in cheap LED lamps and to eliminate it, it is enough to additionally solder all the parts and components with a soldering iron.

Conclusion

A 220 V LED lamp is an energy-efficient device with good technical characteristics, simple design and easy operation, which allows their use in both home and industrial environments.

It is also worth noting that with some equipment, education and experience, you can identify malfunctions of 220-volt LED lamps and eliminate them at minimal cost.

Video on the topic

The article describes the design of LED lamps. Several schemes of different complexity are considered and recommendations are given for self-production LED sources lights connected to a 220 V network.

Advantages of energy saving lamps

The benefits of energy-saving lamps are widely known. First of all, this is actually low energy consumption, and in addition high reliability. Currently, fluorescent lamps are the most widely used. Such a lamp gives the same illumination as a hundred-watt incandescent lamp. It is easy to calculate that energy savings are five times.

IN Lately LED lamps are being introduced into production. Their efficiency and durability indicators are much higher than those of fluorescent lamps. In this case, electricity is consumed ten times less than incandescent lamps. The durability of LED lamps can reach 50 or more thousand hours.

New generation light sources, of course, are more expensive simple lamps incandescent, but consume significantly less power and have increased durability. The last two indicators are designed to compensate for the high cost of new types of lamps.

Practical LED lamp circuits

As a first example, we can consider the design of an LED lamp developed by SEA Electronics using specialized microcircuits. The electrical circuit of such a lamp is shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Diagram of an LED lamp from SEA Electronics

Ten years ago, LEDs could only be used as indicators: the luminous intensity was no more than 1.5...2 microcandelas. Now there are super-bright LEDs, whose radiation intensity reaches several tens of candelas.

Using powerful LEDs together with semiconductor converters It became possible to create light sources that can withstand competition with incandescent lamps. A similar converter is shown in Figure 1. The circuit is quite simple and contains a small amount of details. This is achieved through the use of specialized microcircuits.

The first microcircuit IC1 BP5041 is an AC/DC converter. Its block diagram is presented in Figure 2.

Figure 2. Structural scheme BP5041.

The microcircuit is made in a SIP type housing shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3.

The entire device is protected by fuse F1, the rating of which should not exceed that indicated in the diagram. Capacitor C3 is designed to smooth out ripples in the output voltage of the converter. It should be noted that output voltage It does not have galvanic isolation from the network, which is not at all necessary in this circuit, but requires special care and compliance with safety regulations during manufacturing and commissioning.

Capacitors C3 and C2 must have an operating voltage of at least 450 V. Capacitor C2 must be film or ceramic. Resistor R1 can have a resistance in the range of 10...20 Ohms, which is enough for normal operation converter

The use of this converter eliminates the need for a step-down transformer, which significantly reduces the dimensions of the entire device.

A distinctive feature of the BP5041 microcircuit is the presence of a built-in inductor as shown in Figure 2, which allows you to reduce the number of attachments and the overall size of the circuit board.

As diode D1 Any will do a diode with a reverse voltage of at least 800 V and a rectified current of at least 500 mA. The widely used imported diode 1N4007 fully satisfies these conditions. A varistor VAR1 type FNR-10K391 is installed at the rectifier input. Its purpose is to protect the entire device from impulse noise and static electricity.

The second IC2, type HV9910, is a PWM current stabilizer for super-bright LEDs. Using external MOSFET transistor the current can be set in the range from a few milliamps to 1A. This current is set by resistor R3 in the circuit feedback. The microcircuit is available in SO-8 (LG) and SO-16 (NG) packages. Her appearance is shown in Figure 4, and in Figure 5 is a block diagram.

Figure 4. HV9910 chip.

Figure 5. Block diagram of the HV9910 chip.

Using resistor R2, the frequency of the internal oscillator can be changed in the range of 20...120 KHz. With the resistance of resistor R2 indicated on the diagram, it will be about 50 KHz.

Choke L1 is designed to store energy while transistor VT1 is open. When the transistor closes, the energy accumulated in the inductor is given to the LEDs D3...D6 through a high-speed Schottky diode D2.

Here is the time to remember self-induction and Lenz’s rule. According to this rule, the induced current always has such a direction that its magnetic flux compensates for changes in the external magnetic flux that caused this current. Therefore, the direction of the self-induction EMF has the direction opposite direction EMF source nutrition. This is why LEDs are included in reverse side in relation to the supply voltage (pin 1 of IC2, indicated in the diagram as VIN). Thus, the LEDs emit light due to the self-induction emf of coil L1.

This design uses 4 ultra-bright LEDs of the TWW9600 type, although it is quite possible to use other types of LEDs produced by other companies.

To control the brightness of the LEDs, the chip has a PWM_D input, PWM - modulation from an external generator. This circuit does not use such a function.

When making such an LED lamp yourself, you should use a housing with a screw base of size E27 from an unusable energy-saving lamp with a power of at least 20 W. The appearance of the structure is shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6. Homemade LED lamp.

Although the described scheme is quite simple, it cannot always be recommended for self-production: either it will not be possible to buy the parts indicated in the diagram, or the assembler is insufficiently qualified. Some may simply be afraid: “What if I don’t succeed?” For such situations, we can offer several more options that are simpler both in terms of circuit design and in the matter of purchasing parts.

More simple circuit LED lamp is shown in Figure 7.

Figure 7.

This diagram shows that a bridge rectifier with a capacitive ballast is used to power the LEDs, which limits the output current. Such power supplies are economical and simple, they are not afraid short circuits, their output current is limited by the capacitance of the capacitor. Such rectifiers are often called current stabilizers.

The role of capacitive ballast in the circuit is performed by capacitor C1. With a capacitance of 0.47 µF, the operating voltage of the capacitor must be at least 630V. Its capacity is designed so that the current through the LEDs is about 20 mA, which is the optimal value for LEDs.

The ripples of the bridge-rectified voltage are smoothed out by the electrolytic capacitor C2. To limit charging current at the moment of switching on, resistor R1 serves, which also acts as a fuse in emergency situations. Resistors R2 and R3 are designed to discharge capacitors C1 and C2 after disconnecting the device from the network.

To reduce the size, the operating voltage of capacitor C2 was chosen to be only 100 V. In the event of a break (burnout) of at least one of the LEDs, capacitor C2 will be charged to a voltage of 310 V, which will inevitably lead to its explosion. To protect against similar situation this capacitor is shunted by zener diodes VD2, VD3. Their stabilization voltage can be determined as follows.

With a rated current through the LED of 20 mA, a voltage drop is created across it, depending on the type, in the range of 3.2...3.8 V. (This property in some cases allows the use of LEDs as zener diodes). Therefore, it is easy to calculate that if 20 LEDs are used in the circuit, then the voltage drop across them will be 65...75 V. It is at this level that the voltage on capacitor C2 will be limited.

Zener diodes should be selected so that the total stabilization voltage is slightly higher than the voltage drop across the LEDs. In this case, when normal mode operation, the zener diodes will be closed and will not affect the operation of the circuit. The 1N4754A zener diodes indicated in the diagram have a stabilization voltage of 39 V, and those connected in series have 78 V.

If at least one of the LEDs breaks, the zener diodes will open and the voltage on capacitor C2 will be stabilized at 78 V, which is clearly lower than the operating voltage of capacitor C2, so an explosion will not occur.

The design of a homemade LED lamp is shown in Figure 8. As can be seen from the figure, it is assembled in a housing from an unusable energy-saving lamp with an E-27 base.

Figure 8.

The printed circuit board on which all the parts are placed is made of foil fiberglass by any of the methods available at home. To install LEDs on the board, holes with a diameter of 0.8 mm are drilled, and for other parts - 1.0 mm. The PCB drawing is shown in Figure 9.

Figure 9. Printed circuit board and the location of parts on it.

The location of the parts on the board is shown in Figure 9c. All parts except LEDs are installed on the side of the board, where there are no printed tracks. A jumper is installed on the same side, also shown in the figure.

After installing all the parts, LEDs are installed on the foil side. Installation of LEDs should begin from the middle of the board, gradually moving to the periphery. The LEDs must be soldered in series, that is, the positive terminal of one LED is connected to the negative terminal of the other.

The diameter of the LED can be anything within 3…10 mm. In this case, the LED leads should be left at least 5 mm long from the board. Otherwise, the LEDs can simply overheat when soldering. The duration of soldering, as recommended in all manuals, should not exceed 3 seconds.

After the board is assembled and adjusted, its leads must be soldered to the base, and the board itself must be inserted into the case. In addition to the specified housing, it is possible to use more miniature body, however, this will require reducing the size of the printed circuit board, not forgetting, however, the dimensions of capacitors C1 and C2.

LED light sources are quickly gaining popularity and replacing uneconomical incandescent lamps and dangerous luminescent analogues. They use energy efficiently, last a long time, and some of them can be repaired after failure.

To properly replace or repair a broken element, you will need an LED lamp circuit and knowledge of design features.

A close acquaintance with the design of an LED lamp may be required only in one case - if it is necessary to repair or improve the light source.

Home craftsmen, having a set of elements on hand, can independently assemble an LED lamp, but a beginner cannot do this. But, having studied the circuit and having basic skills in working with electronics, he can replace broken parts and restore the functionality of the device.

Considering that LED devices have become the basis of lighting systems modern apartments, the ability to understand the structure of lamps and repair them can save a significant part of the family budget

Does it make sense to repair an LED lamp? Undoubtedly. Unlike analogues with incandescent filament for 10 rubles apiece, LED devices are expensive.

Let’s assume that a GAUSS “pear” costs about 80 rubles, and a better alternative OSRAM costs 120 rubles. Replacing a capacitor, resistor or diode will cost less, and the life of the lamp can be extended by timely replacement.

There are many modifications of LED lamps: candles, pears, balls, spotlights, capsules, strips, etc. They differ in shape, size and design. To clearly see the difference from an incandescent lamp, consider the common pear-shaped model.

Instead of a glass bulb there is a matte diffuser, the filament is replaced by “long-playing” diodes on the board, excess heat is removed by a radiator, and voltage stability is ensured by the driver

If you look away from the usual shape, you can notice only one familiar element - the base. The size range of socles remains the same, so they fit traditional sockets and do not require changing the electrical system.

But that's where the similarities end: internal organization LED devices much more difficult than incandescent lamps.

LED lamps are not designed to operate directly from a 220 V network, so a driver is located inside the device, which is both a power supply and control unit. It consists of many small elements, the main task of which is to rectify the current and reduce the voltage.

Circuits with capacitors to reduce voltage

To create the optimal voltage for operation of a device using diodes, the driver is assembled based on a circuit with a capacitor or a step-down transformer. The first option is cheaper, the second is used to equip powerful lamps.

There is a third type - inverter circuits, which are implemented either for the assembly of dimmable lamps, or for devices with a large number diodes.

Let's consider an example involving a capacitor, since such circuits are common in household lamps.

Elementary circuit of an LED lamp driver. The main elements that dampen the voltage are capacitors (C2, C3), but resistor R1 also performs the same function

Capacitor C1 protects against power line interference, and C4 smoothes out ripples. At the moment the current is supplied, two resistors - R2 and R3 - limit it and at the same time protect it from a short circuit, and the VD1 element converts alternating voltage.

When the current supply stops, the capacitor is discharged using resistor R4. By the way, R2, R3 and R4 are not used by all manufacturers of LED products.

Disadvantages of a circuit with capacitors:

1. The diodes may burn out, since the current supply is not stable. The load voltage is completely dependent on the supply voltage.
2. There is no galvanic isolation, so there is a risk of electric shock. It is not recommended to touch current-carrying elements when disassembling lamps, as they are under phase.
3. It is almost impossible to achieve high glow currents, because this will require an increase in capacitor capacities.

However, there are also many advantages, which is why capacitors remain popular. The advantages are ease of assembly, wide range of output voltages and low cost.

Feel free to experiment with self-production Moreover, some of the parts can be found in old receivers or televisions.

Sample Switching Driver - Model CPC9909

Unlike a linear driver with a capacitor, a pulsed one effectively protects LEDs from voltage surges and network interference.

Example pulse device serves popular electronic model CPC9909. The efficiency of its use reaches 98% - an indicator at which we can really talk about energy saving and savings.

The CPC9909 chip, developed by Clare, is often used for self-assembly LED lamps, including increased power. The controller is enclosed in compact body made of plastic

The device can be powered directly from high voltage– up to 550 V, since the driver is equipped with a built-in stabilizer. Thanks to the same stabilizer, the circuit has become simpler and the cost is lower.

LED driver circuit based on the CPC9909 chip. Advantages of the scheme: the ability to work in temperature range from -55 °C to +85 °C and powered by alternating voltage current

The microcircuit is successfully used for the development of electrical networks for emergency and backup lighting, since it is suitable for boost converter circuits.

At home, lamps powered by batteries or drivers with a power not exceeding 25 V are most often assembled based on the CPC9909.

Types of dimmable drivers

Adjusting the brightness of the glow lighting fixtures allows you to set the desired level of lighting in the room. This is convenient for creating separate zones, reducing the brightness of light during the day, or for highlighting interior items.

With the help of a dimmer, the use of electricity becomes more rational, and the service life of the electrical appliance increases.

Sample of a retro style lamp with a dimmer. In appearance, the tabletop lighting device resembles a kerosene lamp and has a brightness control knob on the side.

There are two types of dimmable drivers, each with their own advantages. The first ones work with PWM control.

They are installed between the lamp and the power supply. Energy is supplied in the form of pulses of different durations. An example of using a driver with PWM regulation is a creeping line.

Testing a 40W dimmable driver. It is intended for office lamps, as well as devices for car parks and public buildings where energy saving mode is required

Dimmable drivers of the second type act directly on the power source and are used for devices with stabilized current.

When regulating the current, a change in the shade of the glow may occur: diodes white when the current decreases, they begin to emit a slightly yellow light, and when the current increases, they begin to emit blue light.

Brief review and testing of LED lamps

Although the principles of constructing driver circuits for various lighting devices are similar, there are differences between them both in the sequence of connecting the elements and in their choice.

Review of popular LED models

Let's look at the circuits of 4 lamps that are sold in free access. If desired, you can repair them yourself.

Image gallery

If you have experience working with controllers, you can replace the elements of the circuit, resolder it, and slightly improve it.

However, meticulous work and efforts to find elements are not always justified - it is easier to buy a new lighting fixture.

Option #1 – LED lamp BBK P653F

U BBK brand There are two very similar modifications: the P653F lamp differs from the P654F model only in the design of the emitting unit. Accordingly, both the driver circuit and the design of the device as a whole in the second model are built according to the design principles of the first.

The driver circuit is standard, but complicated by the unusual location of the switch and the embedded inductance. The fuse could be installed near the diode bridge, but it is missing

It's easy to spot flaws in the design. For example, the installation location of the controller: partly in the radiator, in the absence of insulation, partly in the base. The assembly on the SM7525 chip produces an output of 49.3 V.

Option #2 – Ecola 7w LED lamp

The radiator is made of aluminum, the base is made of heat-resistant polymer gray. On printed circuit board Half a millimeter thick, there are 14 diodes connected in series.

Between the heatsink and the board there is a layer of heat-conducting paste. The base is fixed with self-tapping screws.

The controller circuit is simple, implemented on compact board. The LEDs heat the base board to +55 ºС. There is practically no pulsation, radio interference is also excluded

The board is completely placed inside the base and connected with shortened wires. The occurrence of short circuits is impossible, since there is plastic around - insulating material. The result at the controller output is 81 V.

Option #3 – collapsible lamp Ecola 6w GU5.3

Thanks to the collapsible design, you can independently carry out repairs or improve the device driver.

However, the unsightly appearance and design of the device spoils the impression. An oversized radiator increases the weight, so additional fixation is recommended when attaching the lamp to the socket.

The board has compact dimensions and a well-thought-out arrangement of elements, for the fastening of which both planes are used. The presence of ripples is explained by the absence of a filter capacitor, which should be at the output

The disadvantage of the circuit is the presence of noticeable pulsations of the light flux and a high degree of radio interference, which will certainly affect the service life. The controller is based on a BP3122 microcircuit, the output value is 9.6 V.

Option #4 – Jazzway 7.5w GU10 lamp

The external elements of the lamp are easily detached, so you can get to the controller quickly enough by unscrewing two pairs of screws. The protective glass is held in place by latches. The board contains 17 diodes with serial communication.

However, the controller itself, located in the base, is generously filled with compound, and the wires are pressed into the terminals. To free them, you need to use a drill or use desoldering.

The disadvantage of the circuit is that the current limiter function is performed by ordinary capacitor. When the lamp is turned on, current surges occur, resulting in either burnout of the LEDs or failure of the LED bridge

There is no radio interference - all thanks to the absence of a pulse controller, but at a frequency of 100 Hz there are noticeable light pulsations, reaching up to 80% of the maximum value.

The result of the controller is 100 V output, but according to the general assessment, the lamp is more likely to be a weak device. Its cost is clearly overestimated and is equal to the cost of brands that are distinguished by stable product quality.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

You can learn how drivers for LEDs are designed, what their features and functions are, from the videos below.

Analysis of the MR-16 LED lamp circuit:

Driver circuit for self-assembly of lamps up to 15W:

What the FT833A driver looks and does:

Homemade from scrap elements:

Now on commercial Internet sites you can purchase kits and individual elements for assembling lighting fixtures different power. If desired, you can repair a failed LED lamp or modify a new one to obtain best result. When purchasing, we recommend that you carefully check the characteristics and suitability of the parts.

For many apartment buildings The problem of lighting staircases is pressing: it’s a pity to put a good lamp there, and cheap ones quickly fail.

On the other hand, the quality of lighting in this case is not critical, since people are there for a very short time, it is quite possible to put paws with increased pulsations there. And if so, then the circuit of a 220 V LED lamp will turn out to be quite simple:

List of denominations:

• C1 – capacitance value according to the table, 275 V or more
• C2 – 100 µF (voltage should be greater than what drops across the diodes
• R1 – 100 Ohm
• R2 – 1 MOhm (for discharging capacitor C1)
• VD1 .. VD4 – 1N4007

I have already given a diagram for connecting an LED strip to a 220V network, so you can simplify it by throwing out the current stabilizer. A simplified circuit will not work over a wide voltage range, this is the cost of simplification.

Capacitor C1 is the component that limits the current. And the choice of its value is very important, its value depends on the supply voltage, the voltage on the series-connected LEDs and the required current through the LEDs.

For 1 LED in the assembly, filter capacitor C2 should be increased to 1000 µF, and for 10 LEDs, to 470 µF.

From the table you can understand that to obtain maximum power (just over 4 W) you need a 1 μF capacitor and 70 20 mA LEDs connected in series. For more powerful sources Sveta would be better suited 220 V LED lamp circuit using pulse width modulation to convert and stabilize the current through the LEDs.

Circuits based on pulse width are more complex, but have advantages: they do not require a large limiting capacitor, these circuits have high efficiency and wide range work.

I ordered several LED lights from China. The converters of these lamps are based on driver microcircuits developed in China. Of course, the quality of operation of these circuits does not yet reach Western standards, but the cost is more than affordable.

So, specifically in the latest LED lamps, the WS3413D7P microcircuit was installed, which is LED driver with active power factor correction.

What do we see in the diagram? The same diode bridge VD1 - VD4, smoothing capacitor C1. The remaining components work and are needed for the operation of the D1 chip. Resistor R1 is needed to power the microcircuit itself at the initial moment of time, and after startup the microcircuit begins to be powered from its output through the chain R5, VD5. Capacitor C2 filters the power supply for its own needs. Capacitor C3 is used to set the conversion frequency. Resistor R2 is needed to measure the current through the LEDs. A divider on resistors R3, R4 allows the microcircuit to receive information about the voltage on LED assembly. Inductor L1 and capacitor C4 are needed to convert pulsed energy into constant energy.

There are a bunch of other varieties of microcircuits, but there are only three main types of high-voltage LED drivers: based on capacitive damping reactance, active damping current stabilizer and pulse stabilizer current.

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14 thoughts on “ 220 V LED lamp circuit”

1. Igor

   Even with the “discarded” stabilizer, light It turns out to be too expensive for an entrance. There it is better to screw in a regular Ilyich Edison light bulb with a diode, which is mounted in a slightly modernized socket.

   1. Valery

      Not in the socket, in the switch, there is more space there.

2. Greg

   I don’t know what Igor saw here that was too expensive, but if you save as much as possible, you can throw out the resistance and the bridge. Will remain: C1, as reactance, one diode for rectifying the variable and C2 (increase the capacitance by 2-3 times) for smoothing out ripples. The costs of power supply and replacement of incandescent lamps are much higher than even the original version of the circuit. They are very uneconomical, and from all angles. Therefore, they get rid of them wherever possible. And in the entrances - this is extremely important and extremely necessary, as Ilyich used to say.

3. admin Post author

   The incandescent lamp has a short lifespan, on the box they write 1000 hours, with 24-hour operation this is 42 days. IN best case scenario The light bulb will last for several months.
   Powering the lamp with half-wave voltage should significantly increase the resource (supposedly up to 100 times), but the light output will drop by more than half. And the light bulb will flicker at a frequency of 50Hz.
   To return the frequency to 100Hz, it is enough to turn on two identical light bulbs in series - and the resource will increase and the frequency will not decrease.

4. Alexandre

   In the first circuit, capacitor C1 must be taken to a higher permissible voltage in the network 220 V this effective voltage Maximum 220 * 1.42 = approximately 320 V; besides, as a rule, the capacitor indicates a constant voltage and the network is 50 hertz. I recommend taking at least 450 V. One diode, as Greg writes, will not go to the LEDs or the rectifier diode will act in reverse voltage. I recommend throwing out the diode bridge and C2 in parallel with the LEDs in reverse polarity, putting the diol one period will go through the LED, the other through the power diode. The LED can be taken from faulty flashlights.

5. Greg

   Well, the LEDs must withstand reverse voltage, but the idea is good. Why waste one period? C2 - we throw it away, yes, and instead of the power one proposed by Oleksandr, we put another light one - let them blink alternately, increasing the overall luminous flux and protecting each other from reverse voltage. And considering that some flashlights contain 20 super-bright LEDs, you can pick a lot. You can take the whole thing from many hand-held lanterns - the handle is made in the form of an elongated bulb with a circular diffuser.

6. Alexandre

   This diagram It’s possible not only in the entrance, as (Igor) suggests, but anywhere, for example, lighting a personal plot according to Greg’s scheme through a step-down transformer for safety and two groups of LEDs connected in parallel and in opposite polarity. Or lighting a caisson, the soul of summer.

7. Anatoly

   I often saw flickering incandescent light bulbs in hallways, where a “cunning” cartridge with one diode was used. In my opinion, it’s perfect for an entrance, energy saving and unpresentable appearance. Scheme No. 1 is quite suitable for the house, I’ll copy it for myself.

8. Nikolay

   I disassembled a “silent” 11 watt LED lamp (100 equivalent to incandescent). What the author calls a driver regular inverter, the circuit of which has entered everyday life everywhere, from light bulbs to computers and welding machines. So my lamp has 20 diode light-emitting elements. While researching them I came to the conclusion that they are included as Christmas tree garland— consistently. It was not difficult to detect a faulty diode. By soldering a resistor jumper of about 50 ohms, the lamp was restored. So the light emitters do not operate at 9.8 volts, but at the entire voltage supplied by the inverter. That is 220 volts.
   Next - I have an ERA bat flashlight, with a 6 volt battery and fluorescent lamp. This lamp shines very humidly at its 7 watts. And the battery lasts for 4 hours. What I did was to remove the diode bridge and the board with light emitters from the “driver” circuit. At the soldering points of the wires from the inverter, marked + and -, I soldered this bridge, observing the polarity. The input of the bridge was supplied with alternating voltage, which was generated by the regular generator of the Era. The lamp worked as it should. The light output remained the same as from a 220 volt network. Since the idle speed of the generator provided this voltage to the light emitters.
   Something like that.

Despite the high cost, the energy consumption of semiconductor lamps (LED) is much less than that of incandescent lamps, and their service life is 5 times longer. The LED lamp circuit operates with a supply of 220 volts when input signal, causing the glow, transforms to working value using the driver.

LED lamps 220 V

Whatever the supply voltage, a constant voltage of 1.8-4 V is supplied to one LED.

Types of LEDs

An LED is a semiconductor crystal made up of several layers that converts electricity into visible light. When its composition changes, radiation is produced a certain color. The LED is made on the basis of a chip - a crystal with a platform for connecting power conductors.

To play White light, the “blue” chip is coated with a yellow phosphor. When the crystal emits radiation, the phosphor emits its own. Mixing yellow and blue light forms white.

Different chip assembly methods allow you to create 4 main types of LEDs:

1. DIP - consists of a crystal with a lens located on top and two conductors attached. It is most common and is used for lighting, lighting decorations and displays.
2. “Piranha” is a similar design, but with four terminals, which makes it more reliable for installation and improves heat dissipation. Mostly used in the automotive industry.
3. SMD LED - placed on the surface, due to which it is possible to reduce dimensions, improve heat dissipation and provide many design options. Can be used in any light sources.
4. COB technology, where the chip is soldered into the board. Due to this, the contact is better protected from oxidation and overheating, and the glow intensity is significantly increased. If an LED burns out, it must be completely replaced, since DIY repairs by replacing individual chips are not possible.

The disadvantage of the LED is that it small size. To create a large, colorful light image, many sources are required, combined into groups. In addition, the crystal ages over time, and the brightness of the lamps gradually decreases. U quality models The wear process is very slow.

LED lamp device

The lamp contains:

• frame;
• base;
• diffuser;
• radiator;
• LED block;
• transformerless driver.

220 volt LED lamp device

The figure shows a modern LED lamp using SOV technology. The LED is made as one unit, with many crystals. It does not require wiring of numerous contacts. It is enough to connect just one pair. When a lamp with a burnt-out LED is repaired, the entire lamp is replaced.

The shape of the lamps is round, cylindrical and others. Connection to the power supply is made through threaded or pin sockets.

For general lighting, lamps with 2700K, 3500K and 5000K are selected. The spectrum gradations can be any. They are often used for advertising lighting and for decorative purposes.

The simplest driver circuit for powering a lamp from the mains is shown in the figure below. The number of parts here is minimal, due to the presence of one or two quenching resistors R1, R2 and the back-to-back connection of LEDs HL1, HL2. This way they protect each other from reverse voltage. In this case, the flickering frequency of the lamp increases to 100 Hz.

The simplest diagram for connecting an LED lamp to a 220 volt network

The supply voltage of 220 volts is supplied through the limiting capacitor C1 to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp. One of the LEDs can be replaced with a regular rectifier, but the flickering will change to 25 Hz, which will have a bad effect on vision.

The figure below shows a classic LED lamp power supply circuit. It is used in many models and can be removed for DIY repairs.

Classic scheme for connecting an LED lamp to a 220 V network

On electrolytic capacitor the rectified voltage is smoothed out, eliminating 100 Hz flicker. Resistor R1 discharges the capacitor when the power is turned off.

with your own hands

A simple LED lamp with individual LEDs can be repaired with replacement faulty elements. It can be easily disassembled if you carefully separate it from glass case base There are LEDs inside. The MR 16 lamp has 27 of them. To access the printed circuit board on which they are located, you must remove protective glass, prying it off with a screwdriver. Sometimes this operation is quite difficult to do.

LED lamp 220 volts

Burnt-out LEDs are immediately replaced. The rest should be ringed with a tester or a voltage of 1.5 V should be applied to each. The serviceable ones should light up, and the rest must be replaced.

The manufacturer calculates the lamps so that the operating current of the LEDs is as high as possible. This significantly reduces their service life, but it is not profitable to sell “eternal” devices. Therefore, a limiting resistor can be connected in series to the LEDs.

If the lights blink, the cause may be a failure of capacitor C1. It should be replaced with another one with a rated voltage of 400 V.

LED lamps are rarely made again. It is easier to make a lamp from a faulty one. In fact, it turns out that repairing and manufacturing a new product is one process. To do this, the LED lamp is disassembled and the burnt-out LEDs and driver radio components are restored. There are often original lamps on sale with non-standard lamps, which are difficult to find replacements in the future. A simple driver can be taken from a faulty lamp, and LEDs from an old flashlight.

The driver circuit is assembled according to the classic model discussed above. Only resistor R3 is added to it to discharge capacitor C2 when turned off and a pair of zener diodes VD2, VD3 to bypass it in case of an open circuit of the LEDs. You can get by with one zener diode if you choose the right stabilization voltage. If you select a capacitor for voltages greater than 220 V, you can do without additional parts. But in this case, its dimensions will increase and after the repair is done, the board with the parts may not fit into the base.

LED lamp driver

The driver circuit is shown for a lamp of 20 LEDs. If their number is different, it is necessary to select a capacitance value for capacitor C1 such that a current of 20 mA passes through them.

The power supply circuit for an LED lamp is most often transformerless, and care should be taken when installing it yourself on a metal lamp so that there is no phase or zero short circuit to the housing.

Capacitors are selected according to the table, depending on the number of LEDs. They can be mounted on an aluminum plate in the amount of 20-30 pieces. To do this, holes are drilled in it, and LEDs are installed on hot-melt adhesive. They are soldered sequentially. All parts can be placed on a printed circuit board made of fiberglass. They are located on the side where there are no printed tracks, with the exception of LEDs. The latter are attached by soldering the pins on the board. Their length is about 5 mm. The device is then assembled in the luminaire.