Types of electrical plugs. US plug, UK plug and EU plug - what they are and what they mean. Design and arrangement of a household electrical outlet

Most often, electrical appliances are supplied with a ready-made system for connecting them to the network. However, there are situations when it is necessary to replace an element such as an electrical plug. Choosing the right option is very important, as is connecting it correctly. In order to avoid unpleasant situations in the future, you should study the technology of equipment repair.

Types of electrical plugs

There are only three types of electrical plugs. These are collapsible and non-dismountable (cast) types of equipment.

Each of them performs the same function. An electrical plug of any type serves as a connection between the network and the current conductor.

Molded forks have gained great popularity in the world of modern household appliances. They are reliable, aesthetic and also comfortable. The wire is attached to the pins by spot welding. The system in this case resembles a single wire. In this case there is no contact. This method of fastening ensures that there is no oxidation or weakening at the junction of the wire with the pins of the plug.

The cause of failure of a cast plug is a fracture of the conductor at the base. Typically, such devices are not repaired.

A removable plug will help bring the device back to life. The electrical cord and plug are connected very tightly. The better the contact, the better the equipment works.

World fork markings

Depending on the state that produces the equipment presented, there are 13 types of gifts and plugs for them. They are marked with Latin letters.

Types A and B of electrical plugs are assigned to American plugs. Type A does not have a ground connection, and Type B already contains a place for its connection. Their pins are flat.

Type C belongs to European plugs with round pins without grounding. English sockets are marked D. The pins are round, two thin and one thick.

French electrical plugs with a grounding point have two round prongs. The third is in the socket.

An F type grounding plug is similar to a C. It only has two grounding plates.

English plugs include types M and G. Other European varieties include sockets J, K, L. Australian plugs for electrical cords are marked with the letter I, and Israeli ones - H.

To connect the plug to incompatible sockets adapters are used.

Electric plugs in our country

In our country there are 4 types of trailed and cast forks.

Type C is a non-separable plug. They most often come with household appliances and connected to the cord.

Type C5 has round pins with a diameter of 4 mm, without ground contacts. The power of the equipment connected to such a plug does not exceed 1.3 kW (6 A).

Type C6 belongs to equipment such as an electrical plug, which may not have a grounding connection. In some versions they have a grounding pin. The diameter of the pins is 4.8 mm. The plug is designed for power up to 2 kW (10 A).

Type C1-b includes collapsible varieties designed for a power of 1.3 kW (6 A).

Which fork is better?

There is an opinion among professional electricians that a cast plug is still more reliable. This applies to quality products from well-known manufacturers.

The connection of the wire to the pins occurs in production by soldering or, in very rare cases, crimping. Subsequent hermetic casting of the housing reliably protects the connection point and also prevents oxidation processes in this section.

The only weak point of such a product is the connection of the conductor to the plug. If a break occurs, it is better not to try to disassemble the cast version of the product. If you decide to repair the device, you should connect a detachable plug to the wire.

Rules for connecting plug C1-b

Different types of electrical plugs will require certain installation rules to be followed for each one.

For collapsible plugs C1-b it is necessary to provide good contact wires with pins. The ends of the conductors should be tinned.

The insulation from the cable is removed by 20-25 mm without touching the cores. Rings should be formed around the crimp screws of the fork. The remaining overlap is wound around the stripped base.

The finished ring is removed and carefully tinned so as not to put pressure on the insulation. Then they are put back on the screws and clamped until they stop. You need to be careful not to break the thread.

The pins with wires are inserted into the mounting recesses. The outgoing wire is pressed with an insulating strip without damaging the outer sheath of the cable. Next, the plug halves are tightened with a bolt and nut.

Connecting the wire to plug C5 and C6

Here the process of connecting the wire is even simpler. The electric plug of type C5 and C6 already includes special pads. There is no need to form rings. Wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm square. envy up to 10 mm, and from 1.5 mm sq. - up to 20 mm. This is due to the connection technology.

Thin wires will need to be folded in half before fastening. The core is twisted and inserted into the terminal.

From time to time it is better to tighten the pads in order to ensure good quality contact. IN similar devices ah he's good enough.

If the electrical network does not provide grounding, you should not connect extra contact anywhere. The third conductor is left unstripped as a reserve. It can be useful if one of the wires breaks.

If you install a plug with a higher power rating on an electrical appliance, this will increase its safety margin. However, when installing a fork with a lower load-bearing capacity on equipment, one should expect it to overheat, fail and create emergency situation. Be sure to pay attention to the marking of the plug and the power of the household appliance.

Having familiarized yourself with the varieties of such an electrical circuit element as an electrical plug, you can choose the right option to replace the old plug. There are several types of such devices. Each is selected in accordance with the required load of the household appliance to which the wire and plug are connected. By making the connection in accordance with all the rules, you can have no doubt about the durability and safety of operation of the electrical plug.

Electrical appliances today are the main tools in everyday life (and not only), which have certain characteristics of power consumption, current and voltage.

Based on these parameters, they plan a particular power network, selecting their elements: solid or stranded conductors (wires), as well as various types of sockets, which, in fact, will be discussed in this article.

So, a socket is an element electrical network, by means of which a detachable connection (connection) of an electrical device to a power source is made - the electrical network. Different countries apply different standards, and accordingly the design and other parameters vary somewhat.

However, in order to successfully make a choice, to find out how to choose the right outlet, you should be guided by the following basic data:

• total power of devices connected to the outlet;
• type of plug connected to the socket of an electrical appliance;
• location and humidity and temperature conditions of the room;
• appropriate type of design and method of installation of the socket;
• the need for a built-in electronic component.

It is clear that you need to focus on the power of the device so that the outlet, designed for a lower consumer power, does not overheat. You should also pay attention to what kind of plug the device has, because Soviet standards are still used, which are not compatible. In addition, sockets are classified according to the tightness of the housing and other parameters, which we will consider below.

Types of sockets according to the power of connected consumers

The total power of devices connected to the outlet is key aspect selecting an outlet.

Ideally, each appliance should have one outlet and wiring line, but sometimes there is an unplanned need to connect two or more appliances to one outlet through a special electrical coupler.

There is a formula by which you can find out which sockets to choose for a particular device (with a substantial margin, preferably), based on its power consumption, which is measured in Watts (denoted by the letter W or Russian V):

That is, the current measured in amperes (A) is equal to the power of the device (W, Watt) divided by the voltage (V, Volt). The fact is that circuit breakers and sockets are selected according to current strength, and only the power consumption is mentioned on the devices, so it is necessary to convert the values ​​​​using this formula in order to compare them.

In practice, it looks like this: the electric stove has a power of 5 kilowatts, that is, 5000 watts and is designed for a voltage of 220 volts, respectively, 5000/220 = 22.7A. This means that the electrical outlet must be designed for at least this current strength.

Old, Soviet-style sockets were used with a power of 6A and 10A, while modern ones household sockets designed for a maximum threshold of 16A, a separate class are power sockets (not related to household ones, but used in everyday life in a number of cases). Such power devices used in everyday life include an electrical outlet for an electric stove, which is designed for more than 16A - 25A and even more - 32A. However, most often high-power devices that require more than 25A are connected in a permanent way, that is, directly with a power electrical cable.

Here we are talking about the standards that are used in post-Soviet territories and EU countries.

There are two main types, from which you can determine which sockets to choose for an apartment or house, focusing on the type of plug and the presence/absence of a grounding conductor.

They (types of sockets and plugs) are designated by letters, the most common and universal is the European type C without a grounding contact, the so-called “Europlug”, which is universal for the still common Soviet C1/C, as well as European ones with grounding - French E and German F.

You can clearly observe the most common types of sockets in different countries of the European Union and CIS countries in the table below.

The most common types of household sockets in the CIS and Europe

Type C "Europlug"		It is used in all CIS countries and most European countries. Fully compatible with plugs types E,F and Soviet C1/B. Current strength – 6A, 10A, 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is no ground connection. Application – low and medium power household appliances that do not require grounding.
		Used in some European countries: France, Belgium, Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Tunisia and Morocco. Rarely in CIS countries. Fully compatible with type C (CEE 7/17) and E/F (EE 7/7) plugs. Current strength – 10A, 16A inclusive. Voltage – 250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is a ground contact. Application – medium power household appliances with grounding.
Type F "Schuko"		Used in most European countries (especially eastern ones), this German standard of sockets is widespread in the market of the CIS countries. Fully compatible with type C, E/F plugs; partially E (without contact of grounding contacts). Current strength is 16A (simple household) and 25A (power for electric stoves). Voltage 250V and 380V respectively, frequency – 50Hz.

Soviet standard sockets (C1/A) are similar to type C “Europlug”, but are designed for plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 mm, which makes it impossible to connect plugs of types E and F, as well as type C modification CEE 7/17 (with a plug diameter of 4 .8 mm). Of the modern plugs, Soviet sockets support only CEE 7/16 type C. To give you a clear idea of ​​what kind of plug these are, below is a table of their types, markings and capacities.

The most common types of household appliance plugs in the CIS and Europe

Soviet C1/B		Still produced and used in the CIS countries as an alternative to CEE 7/16 Europlug (generally a higher quality alternative). Current strength – 6A, 10A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Without grounding, compatible with European standards C, E, F modification without a round rim (or if the rim is broken off).
Pan-European CEE 7/16 (Europlug)		Most popular in Europe, with the exception of the countries: Cyprus, Malta, Ireland, United Kingdom. Used to power low-power devices without the need for grounding. Designed for a current of 2.5A, voltage 110-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Compatible with standards: C, C1, E, F.
Pan-European CEE 7/17		Applicable in the CIS and European countries, except those listed above. Application – power supply of low and medium power household appliances that do not require a ground loop. Current strength – 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Compatible with C, E, F. Not compatible with Soviet C1.
European French E CEE 7/5		Consists of application in France, Belgium, Poland. Application – power supply of household appliances of small, medium and higher power that require grounding. Designed for current 16A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with type C and E sockets respectively.
European German F under "Schuko", CEE 7/4		Widely distributed in the CIS countries, as well as in European Germany, Austria, Sweden, Norway and Holland. Application – power supply of medium and high power household appliances that require grounding. Current strength is 16A, there are modifications of 25A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with socket type C and F respectively.
European Hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7		Widely distributed in the European Union and CIS countries. It has a grounding conductor compatible with that on sockets of type E, F. It is used to power household appliances of low, medium and high power. Power characteristics are equal to those of CEE 7/4 and CEE 7/5. Compatible with sockets types C, E, F.

This was a list of sockets and plugs of the types that are used in the CIS and Europe. Great amount household appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, dishwashers, heaters, electric kettles, washing machines and similar energy-intensive devices with grounding are included in the kit, with a plug cord of a hybrid E/F CEE7/7 type.

Type F CEE 7/4 plugs are also widely used in such devices, but a French socket with a protruding ground pin will not fit. Therefore, for such devices, the types of electrical sockets of which are located respectively in the kitchen or bathroom and power such devices, type F “Schuko” is installed, since both types of plugs are suitable for them.

Particular attention should be paid to the room for which the outlet is selected. If this is a bathroom or a kitchen area close to water, then you need to select an appropriate waterproof outlet. The same applies to sockets located outside the house and in open gazebos.

In the rooms you can install an ordinary socket, but in the hallway, for example, where dust is brought from people with their outerwear, you should choose a dust-resistant socket. At the same time, the sockets have two protection factors from both influences and how to choose sockets based on them, let’s look at the markings of the sockets of which, by the way, there are two:

• IP marking;
• NEMA/UL marking.

IP marking is a set of characters made up of letters and numbers, for example IP30. The first combination of letters IP is an abbreviation for “International Perfection”, that is, “ International protection"which indicates the degree of tightness of the housing against the ingress of moisture and dust particles inside.

Next come the numbers, the first indicates the degree of protection from dust, chips and other solids, as well as touches. The second is an indicator of protection from water, that is, IP30 is a simple household socket with protection against solid particles of a certain size (see table below) and no protection from any influence of water. Let us present a table of decoding of these numerical values.

IP markings for protection against contact, large and small solids, and dust

IP markings for protection against water influences of different intensity and angle

Also, this marking may use a third digit, which indicates the shock resistance of the case, but this is not relevant in household sockets, so we will not consider it. There may also be letters after the digital value: H (indicates the device high voltage), M (tested in working condition against water ingress), S (tested in non-working condition against water ingress), W (with protective equipment additionally specified).

NEMA/UL marking represented by the abbreviation “NEMA” followed by one or two numbers, with or without a letter at the end, for example NEMA/UL 3R. These four letters stand for National Electrical Manufacturers Association; UL stands for Underwriters' Laboratories.

This marking also indicates that these outlet standards are used in the USA and are certified accordingly. In the CIS and many European countries this standard is very rarely used, but it is worth considering. There is a table with which you can decipher what the marking on the socket means, and also compare it with IP, we will consider it further.

Nema standard markings

Occasionally you can see 125/250V power cords supplied with computer equipment (monitors, power supplies) with two flat parallel perforated or solid contacts and one round - these are cords with a NEMA 5-15 connector, designed for the corresponding outlet.

They are widespread in the USA, and it makes no sense to get an American standard socket for them in the CIS; it is better to separately purchase a cord at the other end with a CEE 7/4 connector for socket type F (Schuko) or a hybrid CEE 7/7 compatible with sockets of type E and F. You can also use an adapter, but the first option is best with almost equal financial costs.

There are other types of markings that indicate the strength of the housing, for example IK, accompanied by a digital value from 00 to 10, however, when choosing a household outlet this is not relevant and is not worth considering.

Types of sockets by design and installation method

When choosing a socket, it is important to take into account the material from which the walls of the room are made, since this determines which sockets are best to choose - for a hidden or open installation method.

You can learn more about the basics of installation using these methods in the article “”, but now let’s look at the purely constructive part.

In addition, sockets are distinguished by the number of modules, which determines the number of connections, and there is also a division according to the materials from which their core is made. Regarding the installation method, sockets can be divided into:

• invoices;
• built-in;
• portable.

In part, the installation method also dictates their design, which is manifested in the presence or absence of certain fasteners and mechanisms. Also, the design of the body itself differs, in general, let's look at it.

Overhead sockets are used in cases where it involves open method installation

For example, in the case of a wall made of logs in a wooden house, when it is impossible, according to standards and fire safety, to make slots and install electrical elements there in a solid log.

Thus, the wires are laid along the surface of the wall and external electrical sockets are connected to them and mounted on a socket box that is pre-installed on the wall plane.

There is another type of overhead sockets that are mounted on baseboards if the wiring runs through them.

They do not look aesthetically pleasing, and are also considered less reliable and more often break when the plug is suddenly pulled out than built-in sockets, but in a log house the only alternative is portable sockets.

Built-in sockets used in the construction of walls made of reinforced concrete, brick, and blocks.

They are also mounted in hollow core panel partitions made of fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and plasterboard.

They are mounted in a special plastic mounting box, installed in advance in a hole made in the wall or partition.

The design of the socket core includes special spacer legs that secure it (the core) inside the mounting box, adjusting the force of the expansion with special screws.

Thus, all the working elements and internal electrical cores of the socket are located in the thickness of the wall; only a restrictive metal (or plastic) frame protrudes outside, which is then hidden by the socket body.

Portable sockets can be found on sale as extension cords; they come complete with a cord with a plug (most often a hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7).

There are also many configurations available without a cord, which can easily be connected to an electrical cable outlet from a wall or baseboard, thus avoiding installation work using wall methods. However, such sockets are rarely used directly.

The housing is unscrewed into two halves using structural screws, the cable is clamped with a common clamp, and the contacts are clamped into clamp terminals. The design of such portable sockets can often include a power on/off button, as well as a power indicator, which makes them convenient.

It is worth noting that the photo shows a very interesting and intricate socket, which is classified according to the installation method as a stationary built-in one, but has a portable element - a socket for a plug on an extension wire.

Design and arrangement of a household electrical outlet

The design of a socket for concealed installation is considered the most complex, since it has additional fasteners that are used to install them.

They can also be with or without grounding, with grounding contacts of different shapes and conductor area/section.

As for the durability and reliability of the socket, this depends on the alloy from which the contacts are made, as well as the base material. A new type of electrical outlet used in modern everyday life consists of the following components:

• input contacts/terminals;
• output contacts;
• grounding contact (if any);
• insulator/base;
• frame.

Of course, the kit may contain sockets additional elements, like “curtains” (latches) or covers to prevent water from entering, various relays and other elements, but now let’s look at classic socket for installation in a hidden way without any bells and whistles.

Input pins , they are also terminals, are located at the end of the socket and are intended for connecting electrical neutral and phase conductors, as well as a grounding conductor.

There are two types of wire fastenings that a modern socket has, contacts and terminals: screw and screwless.

Screw connections secure the wire between two plates, fastened together with a screw that is manually tightened by an electrician.

Screwless ones have a spring element that presses the plates, keeping them constantly under pressure, pressed.

Screwless clamps are considered more reliable, since under the influence of vibrations from the frequency of the current, the contact does not become loose or weaken.

The material from which the input contact plates are made is brass and bronze. Brass contacts are considered short-lived and quickly deteriorate in high humidity, and they also get very hot and are poorly compatible with aluminum wiring.

Output contacts , that is, detachable ones into which the pins of the plug are connected, also called jaws, petals (but the socket with a grounding contact has a separately located conductor).

These detachable contacts consist of pairs of parallel plates with oval extensions at the point where the pin is connected. The old plates had special spring clamps that prevented them from deforming and weakening.

The materials for the manufacture of output contact plates are brass (tinned or uncoated) and bronze. Brass plates weaken over time and do not provide proper clamping of the plug pins, causing sparking and melting of the housing. Tinned brass is more resistant to increased moisture, conducts current better and heats up less.

The plates are made from modern composition– phosphor bronze, have a good spring deformation coefficient, accordingly weaken less, and also heat up less and contribute to greater throughput. There are also silver plated contacts that have best characteristics conductivity, reliability and durability.

Ground contact (PE yellow, yellow-green wire) is available in modern sockets; the most common in the CIS is a plug socket with a grounding contact, type F, in which this conductor is supplied in the form of a bracket that clasps the plug where it has grounding contacts.

From a technical point of view, there is nothing to describe, if we talk about standards and grounding devices, then there are the following main types: TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S.

When grounding TN-C, the grounding conductor is connected to the working neutral conductor because there is no separate grounding line.

If these conductors are combined in the socket, then if there is a current leak, a short circuit will occur, which, in theory, should trip the circuit breaker.

With the TN-S system, there is a cable in the house that is responsible for grounding, and it is connected to the grounding terminal of the socket. With TN-C-S, the common wire is also connected to the neutral and ground contact of the socket, but later it is disconnected to the ground and neutral conductor, respectively.

Insulator , also known as the dielectric component of the socket, is the very core of the socket with all the elements described above contained on it, fixed with rivets or screws.

This element, also referred to as the base of the socket, is the only one that does not allow current to pass through, besides the housing cover. The mounting spacer brackets can also be attached to the base.

Depending on the material from which they are made, there are sockets with a ceramic base and with a plastic base. The ceramic base is made from porcelain material and has the best resistance to high temperatures, but at the same time is more fragile than plastic bases for sockets. As for the plastic bases of the sockets, they are refractory, but are more susceptible to charring.

consists of a metal frame attached to the base. On the sides of this frame there can be spacer legs for fastening in the box.

On the front side, it is a restrictive metal rectangular frame that prevents the entire structure of the socket from being sunk deeper than it should be. The frame also provides support against the wall, thus making the entire supporting structure rigid.

The frame may have holes for additional fastening with self-tapping screws to the edge of the mounting box, as well as holes for latches of the plastic frame of the socket. The socket frame is mounted on top of it with a screw (in the center) or/and additionally with latches.

The socket frame can be solid or consist of a rim and a core, in which there are holes for power and grounding contacts, as well as a mounting screw in the center. In the second case, the core presses the frame against the metal frame pressed against the wall.

This configuration of the socket body is used if a double electrical socket is required, or even a triple-quadruple one, that is, paired using a separately purchased frame with the appropriate number of sections.

Cheap sockets use low-quality plastic, the frames of which become yellow within a couple of years or lose color in the case of colored plastic. Also, it (cheap plastic) chars, cracks and crumbles faster.

Types of sockets with built-in electronic components and additional components

In addition to standard sockets, which only have a socket for connecting a plug, there are sockets with built-in electronics, universal sockets for any type of plug, as well as sockets with special latches to protect children from electric shock and hermetically sealed lids for rooms with particularly high humidity. Let us next consider which sockets are appropriate to install in this or that case.

(residual current device) is wise to install in rooms where there is a high probability of electric shock, both directly and through the device connected to it.

The essence of the built-in residual current device is that it measures the current leakage that occurs in the event of an electric shock to a person or current leakage through water, through the device body through structural parts of the building, etc.

At the same moment when current leakage occurs, the relay that powers the output contacts of the socket opens. The maximum that can happen is a slight electric shock or a tiny leak, but health will not be affected, and the electrical system will remain intact.

Socket with built-in time controller (time relay) is useful in cases where it is necessary to turn off the device after a while, but there is no one to do it. For example, an air compressor for an aquarium, an electric heater, etc.

The element that controls the operating time and disconnection of the outlet from power can be mechanical or electronic.

A mechanical controller, as a rule, opens the contacts after loosening a pre-tensioned (by turning) spring element, a socket with a timer, in other words.

The electronic controller contains a microprocessor that acts on the territorial key, turning off the power, and can be programmed for complex time tasks, for a time schedule of repeated power on and off.

Today it is not common in its stationary varieties, but there is already a prototype developed by designer Muhyeon Kim.

In addition to the digital consumption indicator, it has a backlight, which, depending on consumption, changes colors in the palette from blue (at minimum consumption) to red (at maximum consumption).

The idea of ​​such an outlet is quite clear - to control the electricity consumption of the device connected to such an outlet. It can be a very useful device, for example, if you turned on a one and a half kW UFO heater and, in addition to monitoring the feeling of temperature, you can clearly see how much electricity is being consumed, based on this, look for a middle ground.

has a form of detachable contacts that will fit almost any type of plug and grounding contact.

In addition, many of them have a built-in USB charging adapter (in the one in the photo at the top, the lid opens to reveal USB connectors).

It is not widespread and is not particularly popular in the CIS, since the plug connector standards used are uniform and compatible with each other, and US standards are not used in everyday life at all.

As for protected sockets, there are two types: with “curtains” and with covers. The first are childproof sockets; they have protection in the form of flaps inside the lid; when pressed firmly with a fork, powerful spring elements bend and the curtains turn into the free space of the case. They are a protection against small children if they decide to poke a knitting needle or a screwdriver into the socket.

With covers, sockets do not pose a hindrance to children, therefore they are installed if there is no such threat and only in rooms with high humidity. There, depending on the tightness, there are different designs (with and without a seal).

Modern life is unthinkable without electricity. The abundance of electrical appliances that require connection to the network makes it extremely desirable to have sockets that satisfy all needs the latest devices and gadgets. Electrical sockets are a place where an extensive system of wires and cables, hidden from external eyes, reveals itself in the tangible world of the home interior and allows a person to use their amazing conductive qualities for the benefit of Everyday life. You can’t do without this device in any apartment where there is at least one powerful household appliance, such as a refrigerator or washing machine.

To connect electrical equipment to power networks, they are used different kinds plug connection. It consists of two parts (socket and plug).

Sockets are constantly under tension. It looks like a socket with a closed arrangement of conductors to exclude accidental contact with foreign objects.

Plug connects to the source of electricity consumption by cable or forms a common housing with it. The end of the plug has the shape of pins corresponding to the location of the sockets on the socket.

At the dawn of the widespread use of electricity, it was not created single standard for the equipment used. Therefore, the shape and technical characteristics of connectors in different countries turned out to be different.

Standards

A— American standard without grounding. This type is also used in Japan.

B— American standard but with grounding.

C- European standard without grounding (in Russia this is the old version of sockets - the new version has grounding). This type of connector is common in Europe, Russia, neighboring countries, etc.

D- Old British Standard.

E— French standard.

F— European standard with grounding. Modern design of sockets.

G— British standard with grounding. Modern design of sockets.

H— Israeli standard with grounding.

I- Australian standard with earthing.

J— Swiss standard with grounding.

K— Danish standard with grounding.

L— Italian standard with grounding.

M— South African standard with grounding.

When installed permanently, the sockets have a housing for surface mounted or recessed installation. There are also portable options.

Often, a product purchased overseas cannot be connected to your network without the necessary adapter device. Appliances, produced for sale for export, are usually adapted to local conditions.

Technical characteristics of plug connections

The plug connection elements must comply with the characteristics of the electrical network. In Russia and Europe, voltages of 220 and 380 Volts are used, in the USA and Japan - 100-127 Volts. Most countries use 50 or 60 Hz AC frequency.

An important characteristic of plugs and sockets is the maximum rated current, which is directly related to the power of the connected equipment. Household electrical outlets are designed for a current of no more than 16A. To connect powerful equipment, appropriate industrial connectors are installed. They must have a grounding electrode. In household networks it is allowed to do without it.

Electrical sockets: types

• Standard electrical outlet, This is the most common type of socket that is found everywhere in every room, from the living room to the bedroom and closet, where the most popular appliances are connected, such as a TV, hair dryer, etc. Created, this is sufficient for common small devices and lamps. More powerful electrical appliances
  require special types sockets for your connection to the network. These sockets are designed to operate with a current of 5 Amperes and a voltage of 220 Volts, and have 2 connectors on their front panel. They can be with or without grounding.

There are various options for electrical wiring diagrams in residential premises, differing both in the type of branching and in the current strength. The socket must meet the specific needs of each individual case. That is why there are many types of sockets on the market with very different declared current strengths that they can withstand.

• Grounded sockets are used in circuits with circuit breakers, which must be checked for on a regular basis. In every house there are rooms with increased danger short circuits. These are kitchens and bathrooms, which according to all the rules must be equipped sockets with grounding. Such sockets are easily distinguished by their massive body and semicircular hole with an iron edging at the bottom between the 2 main connectors.

• There are special sockets, designed to connect dryers. Such electrical components can withstand significant power with voltages ranging from 120 to 240 volts. Dryer sockets often have up to 4 plugs.

• Sockets for electric stoves also have an increased margin of safety and the ability to operate in extreme power and high voltage modes. Such sockets must work in conjunction with an electrical fuse and grounding.

• Waterproof sockets successfully find their use in garden plots, outdoor summer cafes and swimming pools. They are made of metal that is resistant to corrosion and sun rays, their internal conductive parts are reliably hidden from liquid penetration.

• Sockets with protection against foreign objects made specifically so that children and some adults cannot insert objects that are not intended for this into the holes. The principle of operation is that special gates are built into the connectors, which move away only when they are exposed to a plug of a certain shape. Once the plug is pulled out, the holes close again.

• Combination sockets used in cases where it is necessary to use space economically. They combine 2 functions in one device. For example, this could be a grounded outlet with a switch and a 15-amp duplex with an indicator light.

• To connect several consumers at once electric current sockets with built-in surge suppressor . They will perfectly protect devices from problems in the contact network.

• They stand apart sockets for computer networks, radio and telephone . They are designed for low current and low voltage up to 30 Volts.

Depending on the conditions of use of sockets, they may have additional functions

• Electrical sockets with mechanical timer capable of turning off the device right time without human intervention.

• Sockets with convenient plug ejector allow you to do without applying extra effort, which often lead to loosening of other types of built-in sockets in the wall.

• Illuminated electrical outlets easy to find at night.

• Electrical sockets with built-in residual current device open the circuit when leakage current is detected.

Not all electrical outlets are designed to connect to all types of materials. electrical conductors. Some connectors are not designed to handle copper plugs, while others cannot handle aluminum plugs. On the back of each socket there is a special marking indicating the type of conductor; in most cases both materials will be suitable.

There are many types of electrical network output framing in the world. Because the whole variety of current consumers requires a different set of specific properties and functional features. The abundance of modern sockets allows you to optimal choice for each case and make the operation of the devices as convenient and safe as possible.

General requirements applicable to all types of plug connections

• Reliable insulation of the housing and live parts from each other.
• Ensuring tight contact corresponding to the permissible amount of passing current.
• Defence from incorrect connection, electrical safety during incomplete contact and at the time of connection and disconnection.
• Fire safety.

Network adapters for plugs and sockets are divided into two main types:

• for equipment brought from abroad, the plugs of which do not fit into Russian standard sockets;
• for sockets that will be needed in another country to connect devices with Russian standard plugs.

Almost all adapters are manufactured by ANTEL. Available in any quantity!
We sell socket adapters to organizations and individuals - we work for cash and also by bank transfer.

Those who travel to different countries often encounter incompatible plugs on electrical appliances with sockets. Therefore, more experienced tourists anticipate such a situation in advance and put one or two adapters into the socket in their traveling suitcase - a simple device into which our plug is inserted, and the device itself is inserted into a “foreign” socket. And often the opposite happens: equipment brought from abroad does not want to be plugged into our outlet. And the voltage is suitable, and everything else is fine, but the pins on the plug are not the same or are not positioned correctly. There are more than a dozen different standards for household sockets in the world, some of them fit together without anything, but mostly for such cases adapters are needed. ANTEL has carefully studied this issue and produces adapters for sockets for almost all occasions.

A little information on the types of socket adapters:
- 2 flat parallel pins, used in North America, Canada, Japan, Cuba, etc.,
- 2 flat parallel pins and a third round pin in the middle,
- 2 round pins ( Russian standard),
adapter type “D” - “old British” - three round pins,
adapter type “E” - there are two round pins on the plug and a hole for grounding,
adapter type “F” - a usual socket for us with grounding spring contacts,
- three thick flat pins, used in England, Singapore, Cyprus, etc.,
adapter type “H” - three flat pins diverging from the center at an angle of 120 degrees,
- two flat pins rotated 60 degrees, or three pins (Australian standard);
- three round thin pins, the central pin is slightly offset, used in Switzerland, etc.,
adapter type “K” - there are two round pins on the plug and a thick grounding socket,
- three round thin pins in one line, used in Italy, etc.,
— two thick pins and a third central one even thicker, used in India, South Africa, etc.,
adapter type “N” - two flat pins at an angle of 120 degrees.

Socket adapters can be simple, designed to connect one type of connector to another. And there are also combined universal adapters (for example, the so-called) designed for compatibility of several combinations of sockets and plugs at once. When choosing an adapter for a socket, you need to pay attention to the quality of the contact group: the plug should fit into the connector with force, sit tightly in the socket and be pulled out with force. You also need to pay attention to the permissible current load. If you have any doubts about whether the plug adapter will withstand your load, contact our specialists for advice; all contact information can be found on our page “”.