How to clean the front camera on Android. Cleaning the camera lens on your mobile phone yourself. How to remove scratches with polish

Six months ago, I noticed a problem in pictures taken on my iPhone. Different photographs were marked with a spot in the same place in the frame. Having carefully examined the glass above the microscopic camera lens, I found a small speck of dust and removed it by tapping the body with my hand.

After some time, there was so much dust that it became physically impossible to take normal pictures. I turned to a specialized service to not only fix the problem itself, but also to find its underlying cause. As it turned out, the matter could not be limited to simply cleaning the glass. Over the past year, a lot of dirt has accumulated inside, and your situation is most likely no different from mine for the better! You just don't know about it yet.

For answers to my questions, I turned to the MacPlus.ru service. The guys were invited to their workshop to show and tell where the dust inside the case comes from and how to properly remove it. Homemade tools are not suitable for this at all. Neither cotton swabs, nor, especially, a vacuum cleaner pipe will lead to the best results. Before this, I gave my smartphone twice to “home-grown” craftsmen, and each time after that the dust appeared again, literally after a few days.

A master named Alexander began the process methodically: this is not the first time they have had a device with such a problem, not the tenth, or even the fiftieth. Little changes from generation to generation of Apple smartphones: the iPhone was never completely sealed, and therefore the pristine purity of its internal components is only a temporary phenomenon.

We're dealing with an iPhone 5, which means the disassembly process starts with unscrewing the bolts next to the Lightning port. These microscopic screws are as easy to lose as it is difficult to find an ordinary screwdriver for them. By the way, we are dealing with the standard , and its special variety TS1. To do this you will have to purchase a special tool.

But then comes an important point that allows you to distinguish a real professional from a “home-grown” expert who learned on rollerblades with YouTube. Under no circumstances should the display be disconnected from the main part using a suction cup. Careless use of force leads to the detachment of glass from the display module, which turns the entire “sandwich” into a less useful set of hardware. If one day after repairs you notice that streaks or tiny bubbles have appeared under the glass above the screen, you are faced with the work of an amateur.

We lift the screen module and see an extremely sad picture. I've been using my smartphone for a little over a year, but I've never placed it in dusty places, hidden it under a dusty pillow, or kept it in my jeans pocket for long periods of time. But somehow the dust has accumulated, and it’s not just a lot of it. If I were the master, I would have grinned, but, as it turned out, all this is an absolutely ordinary picture. The only difference is that someone is lucky and the dust does not get on the glass above the camera module longer.

To assess the full extent of dust contamination, the electromagnetic protection is removed from the iPhone 5 motherboard. It also partially stopped the spread of particles. As luck would have it, the outbreak fell on the camera, and it didn’t just happen.

According to the technician, the problem could have appeared after the smartphone fell onto a hard surface. In such cases, the relative tightness of the rim around the screen could be compromised. And slowly, particle by particle, the entire upper, inner part of the body was filled with dust. So why did previous calls to other service companies not bring the desired results? It's just that the cleaning was most likely done manually.

All bolts and elements of the smartphone are placed in a tray with cells. Losing any of the spare parts is disadvantageous, first of all, for the mechanic himself: a second such spare part is not always available. God forbid you lose any of this at home, not to mention damage to some cable. And there are a lot of trains here.

Having removed all loose elements, Alexander takes a powerful air blower powered by a compressor. Without such a thing, it is almost impossible to get rid of dust in the case. By intelligently adjusting the air flow, you can remove all the dirt from sensitive electronic components without damaging any of them. The process takes almost a minute. Immediately after this, the smartphone looks like new - compared to what it was before. But we're not done yet.

Since dust has probably gotten on the optics in the camera, you will have to carefully clean them too, and at the same time go over the glass inside with a cotton swab. Pay attention to the size of the flash: its power, sufficient to illuminate dark rooms as a flashlight, does not in any way correlate with the microscopic size of the module. And there is also a lot of dust on it. Time for handmade work, and very careful work at that.

After walking with a cotton swab along the inner wall of the back of the case, the master begins assembling the smartphone. The parts fit into place in the reverse order, carefully and without haste. Trembling hands are the most terrible enemy in this matter. Calmness during this process makes the difference between a barely noticeable “click” of an inserted cable and a broken pad.

The iPhone was dirty and dusty. It became clean. The whole thing took about 5 minutes. The remaining fifteen I looked at the “insides” of the device. Say what you like, but only Apple knows how to make hardware as well as the design of the case. Black motherboard, strictly arranged main chips, incredible density of components per millimeter. Alexander also agrees: other manufacturers almost always ignore everything that is not visible to the average user. It is for this attention to detail that we love the products of the Apple company.

It all started with two bolts, and it all ends with two bolts. The screws are put into place, the smartphone is turned on and the camera is checked. In principle, this is not necessary. Just look at the camera again and see the huge difference.

Many of us are the proud owners of cutting-edge smartphones with touch screens. However, not all owners of these gadgets know how to handle their property with care. Therefore, over time, small scratches begin to appear on the screen. In this article you will learn how to polish the glass on your phone.

What will be required to perform the manipulations?

You can try removing scratches from your smartphone display using regular toothpaste. It is prohibited to use abrasive powder for these purposes, since the microparticles it contains can damage the screen.

Before polishing the glass on your phone, you need to stock up on soft wipes and a special liquid designed to clean touch screens from microdust and plaque. It is sold in many stores. If this liquid is not available, you can do without it.

Procedure

Before polishing the glass on your phone from scratches, you need to carefully wipe the display. This can be done in a circular motion using a soft rag or a special napkin.

After this, you need to take a clean cloth and, after applying a little toothpaste to it, put it on. After a couple of minutes, you should wipe the entire surface of the screen and polish it with a clean cloth. After completing the procedure, you can wipe the display with cleaning liquid. As a rule, after this all microscopic scratches disappear, and deeper ones become less noticeable.

Professional products

Those who want to figure out how to polish the glass on their phone will be interested in another method. It allows you to remove scratches without leaving a trace without visiting a specialized workshop. To do this you will need GOI or Displex paste. These professional formulations are sold in many communication stores.

Apply a small amount of one of the above products to the display and rub gently in a circular motion using a soft cloth. After the defects have been completely eliminated, the remaining composition must be removed.

Car polishes

There is another, no less effective way to polish scratches on your phone glass. To do this, you will need a special composition designed for car care. Such products can effectively remove defects without damaging the surface itself.

For processing you will need a soft rag and the polish itself. First, you need to apply a small amount of product to the screen. After this, the display is wiped with careful circular movements.

Removing shallow scratches with baby powder

This technique allows you to effectively eliminate small abrasions and minor defects. How to polish phone glass at home? First you need to prepare a polishing paste based on a product that is intended for caring for children's skin. The talc present in the powder will act as a gentle abrasive.

A small amount of dry powder must be diluted with a few drops of water and mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. This composition is applied to the screen and rubbed with a soft cloth. At the end of the procedure, remove excess product with a damp cloth.

Baking soda

Almost every housewife has this multifunctional product in stock. It can not only be added to baked goods, but also used for other purposes. The abrasive particles contained in soda perfectly smooth out unevenness on the surfaces being treated.

How to polish the glass on your phone using this ingredient? You need to prepare a special composition. To do this, mix one part baking soda with two parts water. As a result, you should get a homogeneous paste. Apply this mixture to a piece of soft cloth and wipe the touch screen with it. You can use a damp cloth to remove any remaining product.

During the process, it is important to ensure that the rag used to remove excess soda is only slightly moistened with water. Excess fluid can cause other, more serious problems.

Your camera and lenses can easily become covered in dirt and grit over the summer, so they need to be cleaned regularly, now is the time to do it. When cleaning photographic equipment, it is very important to first remove any dirt particles using air (a special rubber blower) or a brush before wiping with a cloth. This will help keep particles from getting into the fabric, which could get stuck and scratch the surface you're wiping. Below we will tell you how to clean your camera safely and effectively.

Compressed gas cans should be used with caution. If it is not held vertically, propellant may enter the gas stream and cause damage. High blood pressure is also difficult to control. It is better to use a special rubber bulb and a soft brush, which are sold in photo stores.

Always apply cleaning fluid to a cloth or tissue, not to the lens element, and use the fluid sparingly. This will prevent excess liquid from getting into the camera or lens cavities, which can lead to disastrous results.

Have you been to the beach or in a dusty room? Then you need to thoroughly clean the bag, otherwise the remaining sand or dust in it will ruin your cleaning of the camera.

1. Cleaning the case

Clean the camera body with the lens attached to prevent dust from getting inside the camera. Start removing dust and dirt from the lens side with a soft brush. Pay attention to hard-to-reach places, such as memory card slots, where dirt can accumulate.

2. Cleaning the viewfinder.

Now let's turn our attention to the viewfinder. If possible, remove the rubber eyecup and carefully remove any dust. You can now use a soft cloth or wipes to clean the lens (but you will have to use a different wipe to clean the lens). Clean the viewfinder glass thoroughly.

3. Cleaning the screen.

Even with a protective film, the LCD screen can become covered in dust and fingerprints, which can make it difficult to view images on the screen. Clean it with the same type of cloth you used to clean the viewfinder.

4. Cleaning the lens.

Remove sand and dirt with a blower and brush, then use a small amount of cleaning fluid on a lens cloth. Gently wipe the surface of the lens or filter. Use a dry cloth to remove any remaining liquid by gently wiping the lens dry.

Cleaning your camera is a very important task. Dust, dirt and moisture can have a detrimental effect on your expensive equipment, so it pays to keep everything in good condition. Below is a 5-point camera cleaning checklist that every photographer should read...

Spending a little time cleaning your camera's sensor will save you a lot of time cloning the good parts of the photo for the dust marks. It's also worth checking your lenses and other pieces of equipment to ensure you keep everything in good working order.

It's also worth checking your camera's software. If it is up to date. Therefore, the final check item on this list would be updating the camera's firmware.

How often you'll need to check each item will depend on how often you use the camera and the conditions in which you're shooting. If you take photographs regularly, then you should go through the main points of this list about once a month.

1. Camera body

Problem

Dirt and dust on the outside of the camera may not seem like a big deal, but it can get into the camera, either the sensor (see point 3) or numerous mechanical or electrical components that can cause more serious problems.

So it's worth cleaning your camera every few months - or more often if you're shooting in really bad conditions.

Solution

Start with the lens or body cap attached to the camera to prevent dust from getting inside the camera. Go over with a brush or blow off the worst areas of dirt and dust.

Pay special attention to the most uncomfortable areas. Areas around the lens mount, viewfinder, etc.

Once the dust has been removed, you can use a soft cloth to remove stubborn stains, either on the body of the unit or on your LCD.

You can also use Q-tips to get into any hard-to-reach nooks and crannies.

If the dirt is very stubborn, lightly dampen a cloth or cotton swab in distilled water before cleaning.

Finally, you can remove the lens and protective cap and carefully clean the inside of the camera. You must be careful to do this so as not to touch any of the mechanisms inside the camera.

Also, make sure you hold the camera with the lens opening facing down. This will minimize the risk of dust entering the camera again. You can use a blower to remove dust from the mirror section.

2. Lenses and filters

Problem

Dust, dirt or water stains on the lens or filter can cause blur to your photos, so you'll need to clean them regularly, especially if you're shooting in bad weather or dirty locations.

Solution

Cleaning the lens is similar to cleaning the camera body, but in this case you must be especially careful not to scratch the front and rear optics.

Again, brush or blow away any dirt, dust or sand so that it doesn't scratch the lens when cleaning the glass itself.

Once you are satisfied that any dirt or sand has been completely removed, you can use wipes or a suitable cloth to wipe down the lens glass.

You may need to resort to more specialized lens cleaning methods to clear stubborn dirt. If so, place a few drops of detergent on a cloth (never on the lens itself!), then wipe the glass surfaces thoroughly.
Finally, use a clean cloth to wipe away any residue.

To check the surface of the lens, position the lens so that you can see the reflection of light from a window (or similar light source) on its surface.

This will help show you any residue or marks that may be causing blur. You can also clean any filters using the same methods, but you must be especially careful if you have resins on the surface of the filter, as these filters are often more prone to scratches than glass filters.

3. Matrix

Problem

Dust and dirt can easily get into the camera and cause blemishes on your images. This is especially noticeable if you shoot at small apertures and with wide-angle lenses.

Solution

Cleaning the inside of your camera must be done with great care and the right tools, otherwise you may end up doing more harm than good. The cleaning itself is quite simple.

First of all, you need to lock the mirror in your camera's cleaning mode, which is usually found in the setup menu of most cameras, and then follow the instructions for your camera to activate this feature.

Then you need to remove the lens and hold the camera so that the lens hole points slightly down.

For basic cleaning, use the same blower to remove dust and dirt.

Don't be tempted to use an aerosol can, as they contain flammable ingredients that can get into the camera - plus they're also very strong and can damage the delicate mechanisms inside the camera.

For more stubborn dirt, you can use a brush like the Arctic Butterfly.

If there is water splashing or condensation, you need to:

1. Use a damp swab.
2. The tampon must be the correct size for your matrix and you must follow the instructions carefully.
3. Pour one or two drops of a special cleaning solution onto the swab.
4. Gently rub it over the sensor in one direction and then back in the other direction.

Resist the temptation to wipe the sensor again, as dust or dirt collected during the first pass will fall back onto the sensor.

After each cleaning, you can check whether the dirt has been removed by photographing a blank sheet of white paper at a small aperture, such as f/22. Then carefully check the image on your camera's back screen for dust spots (or on your computer monitor, that would be even better).

If there are still spaces, repeat the procedure using a new tampon - do not reuse them for the reasons stated above.

You already know how to care for your camera. Now we invite you to read the article in which you will learn what mistakes advanced and novice photographers make while on vacation.

4. Accessories

Problem

Even if you keep your camera and lens clean, it's all too easy to forget about the more mundane things. Dirt and dust in your camera bag can find its way into your camera. Tripod locks and adjusters can become locked if they are always left wet or dirty.

Solution

Although accessories aren't as thin or fragile as a camera or lenses, almost every piece of photography kit can benefit you if you keep it clean.

For most items, an occasional brushing or just making sure they are clean will be enough. But there are a few accessories that often go unnoticed.

The first is your tripod. This is a piece of kit that very often spends its time in mud, water or sand, especially if you're shooting on the coast or other harsh conditions.

If this is the case for you, then you may:

1. you will need to wash the entire tripod in clean water;
2. then, to reduce the risk of corrosion, use a small amount of water-repellent lubricant;
3. do not overdo it with lubrication, as this may cause more problems than it solves;

Finally, it's worth taking a look at your bag, as even though a dirty or dusty bag may not have a direct impact on the quality of your photos, dust can get onto (or even into) the camera.

5. Software

Problem

Like many other computer programs, the camera's operating system (known as "firmware") can be updated to install new features and even solutions to operational problems, so it's worth making sure your camera's OS is up to date.

Solution

First of all, you need to check the firmware version that is installed in the camera. This can usually be found by going to settings and scrolling to the firmware menu.

It could be one number, such as 1.00 or 1.02, or there could be two or three number/letter combinations.

Next, go to the camera manufacturer's website and try to find the latest firmware available for your camera.

If a later version is available than the one installed on your camera, you need to:

1. download this firmware to your Mac or PC;
2. copy it to a formatted memory card that will match your camera;
3. insert the card into the camera;
4. go to the firmware menu and follow the instructions to update it.

Once you're done, you need:

• turn off the camera;
• remove the card;
• then turn on the camera again and make sure that the installed firmware version matches the version downloaded from the website;

We hope now your equipment will always be clean!

How to clean a video camera lens

Even the most “advanced” and “intelligent” camera will not allow you to get high-quality video footage if its lens is dirty. I will assume that today the most common reason for poor picture quality in video surveillance systems is simple contamination of the video camera lens.

The popularization and simplification of video surveillance systems, which today can be found almost anywhere - from banks and train stations to pavilions and country houses - have deprived video cameras of a certain aura of mystery. As a result, they are treated, both by end users and installers, very, very carelessly. Sometimes this leads to camera failure, but more often it leads to lens contamination and, as a result, to a picture of lower quality than it could be.

Three dangers for the lens

The first type of dirt that every video camera lens encounters is dust on the outer lens of the lens. Dust is everywhere, so it always settles on the lens: not only during filming in the desert or at a construction site, but also during video surveillance on a quiet street, in a park, and even in residential premises. It is worth noting that this type of pollution is the most harmless from the point of view of deterioration in picture quality. Dust particles are opaque: thus, all that dust can do is to slightly reduce the amount of light that the lens will let through. Of course, we are talking about a small amount of dust particles, and not about the case when you and your cctv camera got into a dusty storm. However, dust is the most dangerous contaminant, especially if you are rough and/or inept in cleaning your optics (we'll talk about this later).

The second common type of dirt on the lens is various liquids, from the drops of which no lens is immune. These could be drops of rain on the street, drops of technical fluids in workshops, splashes of non-alcoholic or alcohol-containing liquids that accidentally or deliberately flew towards the lens at a family feast or social event... Finally, these could be the smallest drops from the jets of a fountain or sea surf that the wind carried to the lens. This also includes dew-condensation, which forms on equipment brought from a cold room into a warm room. In terms of the degree of impact (read: image deterioration), liquids are much more dangerous than dust, as they can provoke the most unpredictable effects. The drops themselves are like lenses. When they hit the lens, it seems to receive a kind of set of “attachments” that will cause the appearance of individual out-of-focus areas across the image field, a general veil (possibly colored) and numerous halos around light sources. After the lens dries, the picture will improve, but only slightly - large stains remain in place of the drops, which are quite difficult to remove. This, at a minimum, will lead to uneven illumination of different parts of the frame, that is, the images will alternate between dark and light spots. The only exception to this sad rule is, perhaps, condensation, which after some time evaporates from the lenses itself, leaving no traces. And some liquids can damage or destroy anti-reflective film, a thin coating on lenses that improves lens performance.

To complete the list of dangers that await fans of video surveillance systems and their camera lenses, let’s also say that the types of contamination considered are almost never found alone.

How to remove lens dirt?

Any lens cleaning must begin with removing dust. As mentioned above, dust does not cause a significant deterioration in image quality, but its inept removal can irreversibly damage the lens. It is best to remove dust that has settled on the lens with a stream of air: this method is quite sufficient if the dust particles do not stick to the surface. But under no circumstances blow on the lens! With this “cleaning method”, instead of dust particles, you will apply tiny drops of your own saliva to the lens. It is better to use a special rubber bulb-syringe, which are now sold in photo and video stores (both separately and as part of optics cleaning kits). If you can’t buy a special bulb, buy a small pharmacy syringe, just squeeze it several times before use to remove all the talc, which is sometimes sprinkled on syringes during transportation and storage. You can also use cans of compressed air, which are offered for cleaning hard-to-reach areas of PC system units.

To remove stuck dust particles that cannot be blown off, we can recommend a soft, grease-free brush. Many blowers sold in photo and video stores are equipped with such a brush through which air is blown.

Movements when cleaning lenses with a brush should be soft and short. The fact is that the movement of dust across the glass creates scratches, which are more noticeable and numerous the more actively the dust particles scrub the lens. For the same reason, it is not recommended to use cleaning wipes to remove dust. Over time, they turn into fine-grained sandpaper, covering even a clean lens with a grid of fine scratches.

Drops should be dealt with before they dry, otherwise, instead of liquid, either crystals of salts contained in the liquid or a film of essential oils will have to be removed from the lens. To remove drops, it is best to use a sterile cotton swab (made of natural cotton), not too tightly wound around an ordinary match, or take cosmetic cotton swabs. Cotton wool absorbs liquid well and contains less dust than cloth napkins. But you shouldn’t press too hard - this will prevent the drops from being absorbed better, and dust particles that accidentally end up on the lens can begin to scratch the surface. And a match with a cotton swab wrapped around it can damage the lens. Movements should be smooth and directed along a radius - from the center of the lens to the lens frame.

If the drops have already dried, you can first try to breathe lightly on the lens so that it fogs up. And then, without waiting for the condensate to evaporate, use a dry cotton swab to wipe the glass with the movements you already know from the center to the edge. In most cases this should be enough. But, if the trace of the drop does not dissolve in water, you will have to use ethyl alcohol.

When starting “alcohol” cleaning, you need to stock up on two cotton swabs. One of them is left dry, while the other is slightly moistened with alcohol. The main thing here is not to overdo it: the cotton wool should be only slightly damp. Excess alcohol can flow into the junction of the lens and frame into the lens and dissolve the bonding of the optical components, which will lead to irreversible damage to the lens. The wet cotton wool should leave a light mark on the glass that evaporates within a few seconds. Then breathe on the lens again and wipe it with a dry swab. This way you will eliminate light residue that may remain from not too pure alcohol. Never use alcohol-containing alcohol or perfume to clean your optics! In addition to the alcohol itself, they contain too many aromatic additives and other impurities, which, after the alcohol evaporates, will remain on the surface of the lenses as an equally strong “pollutant”.

As an alternative to alcohol-based cotton wool, we can recommend cleaning wipes, which are offered by many companies (Olympus, Hama, Defender and others). Wipes come in wet and dry varieties. Moreover, Defender sells them in pairs - a package with a wet wipe is attached to a dry one. Consecutive wiping with dry and damp cloths allows you to get rid of drop marks not only on the optics, but also on the lens and camera body. The disadvantages of wipes include the difficulty of cleaning small lenses, deeply recessed into the frame, and areas near the frame. In fact, it’s difficult to get there with a finger and a napkin, but it’s easy to get there with a tampon on a match. But you can also wrap a napkin around a match...

To remove grease stains from glass, you cannot do without some kind of solvent. Using a dry cloth will only spread the grease over the entire surface of the lens. Traditionally, alcohol is used to wipe optics, but medical grade alcohol is required (96%). But the fat may not respond to it right away: in this case, the cleaning will have to be repeated - but with a new tampon. To complete the procedure, as before, it is necessary to wipe off the condensation from your breath with a dry swab, which will eliminate all traces of “wet” cleaning.

Old reference books for photographers recommended using a mixture of equal parts ethyl alcohol, ether and carbon tetrachloride to clean lenses. I have no doubt that such a composition will dissolve any contamination. But due to the aggressiveness of this mixture, I would not risk recommending it for cleaning modern lenses with plastic optics or lens frames.

Important: you cannot use any solvents, including alcohol, to clean plastic lenses! This can cause some types of optical plastics to become dull. You should not use wet wipes, since it is not known what chemical components are included in their impregnation.

It is very useful to purchase and always have with you a special pencil for cleaning optics. One of the most commonly used is the LensPen. On one side, it has a soft brush for removing large particles, dust and sand from the lens and other parts of the video camera, and on the other, a felt circle for cleaning the glass from stains. The LensPen cleaning pad is made from specially designed soft materials. It is safe for all types of lenses and lens coatings.

As you can see, cleaning the lens is quite a difficult task. Preventing this problem is easier than dealing with its consequences.