Self-repair of Acer LCD monitor. Are we repairing the Acer AL1916 LCD monitor and figuring out how to disassemble the monitor without unnecessary trouble? place – does not respond to control buttons

Today we'll see how to disassemble and repair the Acer AL2017 monitor. A monitor malfunction most often manifests itself in the form of periodic shutdowns. It happens that the monitor does not turn on at all, but only blinks the indicator, or there is no backlight, but the image is only visible in bright light. Let's start disassembling the monitor by removing the plastic cover on the back that covers the stand mount. For example, I did it without tools, one might say with my bare hands.

Disassembling Acer AL2017 LCD monitor

Also be careful disconnect the cables, going to the matrix board.

Again, do not remove the cover yet, but unscrew the screws securing the power connector.

Don't forget about the DVI and VGA connector mounts. I use narrow nose pliers for this purpose.

Now we remove the metal cover and see under it the electronic boards screwed to the rear panel of the matrix. On the left in the photo is the power supply and backlight board, on the right is the video signal processing board. On the power supply board we see two swollen capacitors. To replace them, unscrew the screws securing the board. They are circled in green.

Capacitors swell due to deterioration of their characteristics and, as a result, overheating and evaporation of the electrolyte. We replace these capacitors with fresh ones from some reputable company.

We also check the remaining radio elements in the following order -

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Reliable repair of Acer monitors in Moscow

The Acer monitor is a kind of intermediary between the user and computer equipment. Thanks to it, it becomes possible to use various programs, watch videos, create photo collages and perform many other operations. And if any malfunction or malfunction of this device occurs, the computer equipment becomes useless hardware. To avoid such a scenario, you should choose in advance a reliable company that repairs Acer monitors. And the best representative of the specialized services market is our service center!

The most common causes and types of failures of Acer monitors

The main reasons for monitor failure are: constant power surges in the network, improper operation, as well as natural wear and tear. If the power supply board of Acer equipment is damaged, problems with charging the device or turning it on may occur. Excessive wear or damage to the monitor matrix results in poor quality video and graphics display. Spots and stripes appear on them.

A malfunction of the power supply leads to interference, long startup times, and spontaneous shutdown of Acer monitors. And cracks in the solder or board with control buttons most often lead to failures in adjusting the operation of the device. Cloudiness, dull color of the image displayed on the monitor, noise and interference may indicate damage to the VGA cable, worn backlights, etc.

As you can see, only a specialist with access to professional diagnostic equipment and reliable high-class components - AAA can understand the variety of breakdowns of Acer monitors. Thanks to them, successful repair of any monitor model becomes possible.

Why is it worth having your monitor repaired in our company?

We have everything you need for prompt and high-quality repair of Acer equipment: the ability to obtain original components directly from the manufacturer, a specially equipped service center. Our specialists repair computer equipment on-site and in the office. The maximum duration of work is 3 hours. After this time, you will receive a fully functional monitor.

Acer monitor repair prices

A modern computer monitor is very reliable during operation, but unfortunately, like any other type of equipment, it sometimes breaks down. There is no point in taking a monitor to a service center for a novice radio amateur (unless it is still under warranty), but you can always try to make repairs yourself and with your own hands, because for people who use a multimeter there is nothing wrong with this procedure.

Malfunctions with this monitor model most often occur in the form of periodic spontaneous shutdowns. It happens that the monitor cannot be turned on at all, but only the LED indicator blinks, sometimes there is simply no backlight, but the image is only slightly visible in bright external light. Let's start disassembling the monitor by removing the rear plastic cover that covers the stand mount. The photo below shows the latches that need to be released. After removing the cover for further disassembly, you need to unscrew the eight screws circled in the figure.

Turn the monitor over and carefully pry the latches around the entire perimeter of the case. Under the back cover there is a bunch of cables and a metal cover, under which the power supply and backlight boards are located. We unscrew the screws that secure this cover, but first, we take out the connectors of the backlight lamp wires.

We also carefully disconnect the cables going to the matrix board. In addition, do not forget to unscrew the screws securing the power, DVI and VGA connectors.

Now you can remove the metal cover, underneath there are printed circuit boards screwed to the rear panel of the matrix. On the left in the photo below is the power supply and backlight board, on the right is the video signal processing module. Upon inspection, two swollen capacitors are clearly visible in the power supply. To replace them, you will need to unscrew the screws securing the board.

Capacitors often swell due to deterioration of their properties due to overheating and evaporation of the electrolyte. We replace them with new ones. We also check the remaining radio components in the following order - fuses, capacitors, transistors, transformers. Well, we carefully inspect the printed soldering for possible microcracks.

Let's look at another practical example of disassembling a monitor using the ACER AL1716 model as an example. First, carefully place the monitor on the table with the display facing down, placing a thin piece of foam rubber or a rolled-up newspaper under it so as not to scratch the screen. Before starting the disassembly process, you can familiarize yourself with.

In accordance with the photographs discussed in the manual, we proceed to disassembling the case.

From the back of the monitor case, remove the decorative cover, under which four screws are hidden, and unscrew them.

After this, without much effort, disconnect the monitor mounting stand

After that, using a special screwdriver, or, in extreme cases, using something flat and thin, we unclip the latches inside the case to divide it into two halves. Do this slowly and carefully so as not to break the fasteners, otherwise you will have to glue the body together.

When the case opens, remove the inner frame with electronics

On the frame there are three main printed circuit boards that are covered with metal covers to reduce the level of electromagnetic radiation and the LCD matrix itself. As you can see, any monitor with LCD technology consists of five main components:

LCD matrix

power unit

Inverter

Interface control board

Keypad or Touchpad

Next, we unscrew the screws securing the metal covers and disconnect the connectors with wires and gain access to the printed circuit board of the power supply and the interface control board; according to failure statistics, it is in the power supply that breakdowns and problems most often occur.

We unscrew the screws securing these boards and disconnect the connectors leading to them, after which any of these boards can be easily removed to replace and diagnose defective components.

If there is a need to unscrew the LCD matrix, then unscrew the 4 screws securing it to the metal frame and remove it with ease. Reassembling the monitor after fixing the problems is done in the reverse order. To consolidate the material, you can watch the video instructions for disassembling Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W monitors

The video file can be easily opened in any video viewing program. The information is relevant for Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W monitors, but can be used to disassemble monitors from other companies

Acer AL1916W monitor repair - collective farming

As you know, the main problem with LCD monitors is the failure of the screen backlight lamps. Over time, the emission of the cathodes decreases, and this happens until the lamps are carried out by the inverter. Yes, inverters have protection. Yes, it doesn't work. This is also no secret to anyone. This is what happened in this case.

Monitor AL1916W, symptom - “does not show”. When turned on, the green LED lights up, which indicates at least the health of the power supply and main board. Suspicion immediately falls on the backlight. To check this, you need to connect the monitor to the computer and shine a flashlight at the screen almost point-blank, from different angles. In one of the options, you will be able to see an image, which will confirm the functionality of the power supply and main board.

Let's disassemble the monitor. To remove the back cover, you need to unscrew several bolts and remove it from the latches. Inside the monitor there are two boards: the main one and the power supply DAC-19M008 BF 01A, combined with an inverter. Five swollen electrolytic capacitors are immediately detected on the power supply board, some of which have leaked. Near the field-effect transistor assemblies, traces of strong heating are noticeable, which is reflected in the darkening of the PCB. On the side of the printed tracks, a burnt-out SMD fuse was detected along the power line of the backlight inverter.

The reason for the breakdown is simple: a decrease in the emission of the cathodes of the lamps, and there are four of them in the backlight, leads to an increase in the current through them, and, as a result, to overheating of the transistor assemblies that “pump” the step-up transformer that powers the lamps. As a result of thermal breakdown, a short circuit occurs in one or more transistors, and the fuse in the inverter power circuit blows. The controller chip, which is typical, does not notice any malfunctions. At this point we can only guess whether the designers of such circuitry are familiar with a soldering iron at all, or whether this is part of a global conspiracy to deliberately obsolete the equipment.

Repairs should begin with replacing the capacitors. Despite the fact that they are not the cause of the breakdown, due to the deterioration of the filtering of the supply voltages, they can lead to unstable operation of the monitor and, possibly, interference in the image. Therefore, we replace two 1000 µF 25V capacitors and three 200 µF 25V capacitors with serviceable ones with low ESR. Swollen capacitors have a significant loss of capacity.

We replace the SMD fuse with a similar one from the computer motherboard, which was located along the USB power circuits. Just in case, you should unsolder the high-voltage transformer and check for signs of overheating on the primary winding. If there are no special instruments for checking transformers for short-circuited turns, then the secondary windings can be checked with an inductance meter.

This inverter contains two assemblies of field-effect transistors AOP605 (30V 7.5A 0.028 Ohm), each of which contains a pair of transistors: one n-type and one p-type. As a replacement, the developers recommend using the AOP604 or AP4511GD, which have similar parameters. Other modern assemblies can also be used. Of the two assemblies, one turned out to be working, and the other had a short-circuited p-type transistor. It was not possible to find anything similar, so collective farming technology, which has shown good results, was used, which consists of removing the burnt part from the microcircuit pins and soldering the SMD10P05 field wire (50V, 10A, 0.28 Ohm) with a surface-mounted installation as a temporary solution.

To check the operation of the inverter, external backlight lamps were connected, which lit up successfully. The electronics are fixed. Unfortunately, it was not possible to find lamps of the required length. LED backlight modules from Aliexpress are not cheap and have uneven illumination in the immediate vicinity of the edges of the screen, and also distort colors. Plus, they have a long wait. Since this monitor is “for spare parts”, it was decided, again, to use advanced collective farming technology, which consists of using longer lamps - 2 centimeters. Unfortunately, such a screen will no longer fit into the housing, so you need to cut four holes into which the protruding ends of the lamps will go. The outside of these holes can be sealed with an opaque material to prevent light from leaking out.

Since longer lamps have different parameters, the inverter’s protection may trip at full brightness (really?), so the brightness should not be set to more than 75%. At some brightness levels, magnetostrictive effects may occur in the step-up transformer, appearing in the form of crackling and buzzing. However, with Acer they also occur on perfectly serviceable monitors. A solution to this problem has not yet been found, other than changing the brightness level down or up.

The acer AL1916W monitor is almost 10 years old, of which it worked for at least 7, after which it received a new life. At maximum resolution it has excellent image clarity and can be used with a desktop work computer. Ideally, you should replace the field light assembly with a normal one and install lamps of the “native” length. We should not forget that collective farming technology, despite its versatility and efficiency, is only a temporary solution.

When changing display lamps, you should avoid getting dust between the layers of the screen. If the inverter is burned out a little less than completely, then it can be replaced

This is an LCD monitor with a 17-inch matrix diagonal. I’ll say right away that when there is no image on the monitor, we (at work) immediately take such copies to our electronics engineer and he works on them, but here was an opportunity to practice :)

First, let's understand a little terminology: CRT monitors (CRT - Cathode Ray Tube) used to be widely used. As the name suggests, they are based on a cathode ray tube, but this is a literal translation, technically it is correct to talk about a cathode ray tube (CRT).

Here is a disassembled example of such a “dinosaur”:

Nowadays, the LCD type of monitors (Liquid Crystal Display) or simply LCD display is in fashion. Often such designs are called TFT monitors.

Although, again, if we speak correctly, then it should be like this: LCD TFT (Thin Film Transistor - screens based on thin-film transistors). TFT is simply the most common type today, or more precisely, LCD (liquid crystal) display technology.

So, before we take on repairing the monitor ourselves, let’s consider what “symptoms” our “patient” had? In short: no image on screen. But if you observed a little more closely, various interesting details began to emerge! :) When turned on, the monitor showed an image for a split second, which immediately disappeared. At the same time (judging by the sounds) the computer itself was working properly and the operating system loaded successfully.

After waiting for some time (sometimes 10-15 minutes) I discovered that the image appeared spontaneously. After repeating the experiment several times, I was convinced of this. Sometimes, to do this, however, it was necessary to turn off and turn on the monitor using the “power” button on the front panel. After resuming the picture, everything worked without failure until the computer was turned off. The next day the story and the whole procedure were repeated again.

Moreover, I noticed an interesting feature: when the room was warm enough (the season is no longer summer) and the radiators were fairly heated, the time the monitor was idle without an image was reduced by about five minutes. It felt like it was warming up, reaching the desired temperature and then working without problems.

This became especially noticeable after one day the parents (the monitor was with them) turned off the heating and the room became quite fresh. In such conditions, the image on the monitor was absent for 20-25 minutes and only then, when it warmed up enough, appeared.

According to my observations, the monitor behaved exactly the same as a computer with certain (lost capacitors). If such a board is sufficiently warmed up (let it run or point a heater in its direction), it “starts” normally and, quite often, works without failures until the computer is turned off. Naturally, this is up to a certain point!

But at an early stage of diagnosis (before opening the “patient’s” body), it is highly desirable for us to get as complete a picture of what is happening as possible. From it we can roughly figure out which node or element is the problem? In my case, after analyzing everything stated above, I thought about the capacitors located in the power circuit of my monitor: turn it on - there is no image, the capacitors warm up - it appears.

Well, it's time to test this assumption!

We repair the monitor with our own hands

We'll sort it out! First, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the bottom of the stand:

Then, remove the corresponding screws and remove the stand mounting base:

Slowly, we move along the perimeter of the entire matrix, gradually using a screwdriver to pry out the plastic latches holding the front panel from their seats.

After we disassembled the monitor (separated its front and back parts), we see this picture:

If the “insides” of the monitor are attached to the back panel using adhesive tape, peel it off and remove the matrix itself with the power supply and control board.

The rear plastic panel remains on the table.

Everything else in the disassembled monitor looks like this:

This is what the “filling” looks like in my palm:

Let's show a close-up of the panel of settings buttons that are displayed to the user.

Now, we need to disconnect the contacts connecting the cathode backlight lamps located in the monitor matrix with the inverter circuit responsible for lighting them. To do this, we remove the aluminum protective cover and under it we see the connectors:

We do the same on the opposite side of the monitor protective casing:

Disconnect the connectors going from the monitor inverter to the lamps. For those interested, the cathode lamps themselves look like this:

They are covered on one side with a metal casing and are located in it in pairs. The inverter “ignites” the lamps and regulates the intensity of their glow (controls the brightness of the screen). Nowadays, LED lighting is increasingly being used instead of lamps.

Advice: if you find that the monitor suddenly the image has disappeared, take a closer look (if necessary, illuminate the screen with a flashlight). Perhaps you will notice a faint (faint) image? There are two options here: either one of the backlight lamps has failed (in this case, the inverter simply goes into “protection” and does not supply power to them), remaining fully operational. Second option: we are dealing with a breakdown of the inverter circuit itself, which can either be repaired or replaced (in laptops, as a rule, they resort to the second option).

By the way, the laptop inverter is located, as a rule, under the front outer frame of the screen matrix (in its middle and lower parts).

But we digress, we continue to repair the monitor (or rather, for now, screw it up) :) So, having removed all the connecting cables and elements, we disassemble the monitor further. We open it like a shell.

Inside we see another cable connecting, protected by another casing, the matrix and monitor backlight lamps to the control board. We peel off the tape halfway and see underneath it a flat connector with a data cable in it. Carefully remove it.

We put the matrix separately (we will not be interested in it in this repair).

This is what it looks like from the back:

Taking this opportunity, I would like to show you the disassembled monitor matrix (we recently tried to repair it at work). But after disassembling it, it became clear that it couldn’t be repaired: part of the liquid crystals on the matrix itself had burned out.

In any case, I shouldn’t have been able to see my fingers located behind the surface so clearly! :)

The matrix is ​​mounted in a frame that fixes and holds all its parts together using tightly fitting plastic latches. In order to open them, you will have to work thoroughly with a flat-head screwdriver.

But with the type of DIY monitor repair that we are doing now, we will be interested in another part of the design: the control board with the processor, and even more so in our monitor. Both of them are shown in the photo below: (photo - clickable)

So, in the photo above, on the left we have a processor board, and on the right we have a power board combined with an inverter circuit. The processor board is often also called a scaler board (or circuit).

The scaler circuit processes the signals coming from the PC. In essence, the scaler is a multifunctional microcircuit that includes:

• microprocessor
• receiver (receiver) that receives the signal and converts it into the desired type of data transmitted via digital PC connection interfaces
• analog-to-digital converter (ADC) that converts R/G/B analog input signals and controls monitor resolution

In fact, the scaler is a microprocessor optimized for the task of image processing.

If the monitor has a frame buffer (), then work with it is also carried out through the scaler. For this purpose, many scalers have an interface for working with dynamic memory.

But we are again distracted from the renovation! Let's continue! :) Let's take a closer look at the monitor's power combo board. We will see such an interesting picture there:

As we assumed at the very beginning, remember? We see three swollen capacitors that require replacement. How to do this correctly is described on our website, let’s not get distracted once again.

As you can see, one of the elements (capacitors) swelled not only at the top, but also at the bottom, and some of the electrolyte leaked out of it:

To replace and effectively repair the monitor, we will need to completely remove the power board from the casing. We unscrew the fastening screws, pull out the power cable from the connector and take the board in our hands.

Here's a photo of the back of it:

And here is its front part:

I want to say right away that quite often the power board is combined with the inverter circuit on one PCB (printed circuit board). In this case, we can talk about a combined board consisting of a monitor power supply (Power Supply) and a backlight inverter (Back Light Inverter).

In my case this is exactly the case! We see that in the photo above the lower part of the board (separated by a red line) is, in fact, the inverter circuit of our monitor. It happens that the inverter is represented by a separate PCB, then the monitor has three separate boards.

The power supply (the upper part of our PCB) is based on the FAN7601 PWM controller chip and the SSS7N60B field-effect transistor, and the inverter (its lower part) is based on the OZL68GN chip and two FDS8958A transistor assemblies.

Now we can safely begin repairs (replacing capacitors). We can do this by conveniently placing the structure on the table.

This is what the area of ​​interest to us will look like after removing faulty elements from it.

Let's take a closer look at what capacitance and voltage ratings we need to replace elements soldered from the board?

We see that this is an element with a rating of 680 microfarads (mF) and a maximum voltage of 25 Volts (V). We talked in more detail about these concepts, as well as about such an important thing as maintaining the correct polarity when soldering. So, let's not dwell on this again.

Let's just say that two 680 mF capacitors with a voltage of 25V and one 400 mF/25V have failed. Since our elements are included in the electrical circuit in parallel, we can easily use two 1,000 mF capacitors instead of three capacitors with a total capacitance (680 + 680 + 440 = 1800 microfarads), which in total will give the same (even larger) capacitance.

This is what the capacitors removed from our monitor board look like:

We continue to repair the monitor ourselves, and now it’s time to solder new capacitors in place of the removed ones.

Since the elements are really new, they have long “legs”. After soldering into place, we simply carefully cut off their excess with side cutters.

In the end, we got it like this (for the sake of order, in addition to two 1,000 microfarad capacitors, I placed an additional element with a capacity of 330 mF on the board).

Now, we carefully and carefully reassemble the monitor: fasten all the screws, connect all the cables and connectors in the same way and, as a result, we can begin an intermediate test run of our half-assembled structure!

Advice: There is no point in putting the entire monitor back together at once, because if something goes wrong, we will have to disassemble everything from the very beginning.

As you can see, a frame signaling the absence of a connected data cable appeared immediately. This, in this case, is a sure sign that our DIY monitor repair was successful! :) Previously, before the problem was fixed, there was no image on it at all until it warmed up.

Mentally shaking our hands, we assemble the monitor to its original state and (to check) connect it with a second display to the laptop. We turn on the laptop and see that the image immediately “goes” to both sources.

Q.E.D! We just repaired our monitor ourselves!

note: to find out what other types of TFT monitor malfunctions there are, go.