G Zlachevskaya. The clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” is intended for sewing enthusiasts and professionals. Additional projection measurements to determine dart openings along the waistline

taking measurements using the method of V.E. Bochkareva

In order for the pattern to be successful and the item sewn from it to fit perfectly on the figure, it is important to take measurements correctly. Today we will learn this from a real craftswoman who has gone through the difficult path of “tailor - cutter - designer”, the author of unique cutting techniques, Yuliana Vylegzhanina.

We hope this master class will be useful and interesting not only for beginning dressmakers, but also for experienced needlewomen.

01 . To take measurements you will need:

tape measure,
corner rulers,
regular ruler
marker,
shoulder pad (preferably, but not required),
elastic or ribbon to secure the waist line,
pen and paper for writing.
02 . Making a corner ruler

To take projection measurements (heights and depths) we will use a special angular ruler. It’s easy to make it yourself, its cost is no more than 40 - 50 rubles. The advantage of such a ruler is that the right angle is strictly observed during measurements, which increases the accuracy of measurements.

To make a corner ruler you will need:
two wooden rulers 30 and 25 cm long,
wooden square with angles of 30 and 60 degrees,
two pieces of wooden window bead 15-17 cm long,
PVA glue,
kitchen knife file.

03 . Using a saw blade, cut off a piece from a 30 cm long ruler equal to the height of the glazing bead + 0.5 cm. Glue this ruler to the square, aligning the divisions. This is done to increase the length of the angle leg.

Cut a 25 cm long ruler so that the scale starts from zero. Glue the glazing beads on the back side at a distance from each other equal to the thickness of the square + 1 mm.

The only difficulty is to maintain the distance so that the square moves between the beads without obstacles, but at the same time does not fall out. To make sliding easier, you can rub the surface with soap or wax.

04 . In order to take measurements correctly, it is necessary to find the main anthropometric points on the body that will participate in the process. It is best to mark these points with a marker with the client’s consent.

In applied anthropometry, about 20 points are used. These include:

1 - apical,
2 - cervical,
3 - base of the neck,
4 - shoulder,
5 - nipple,
6 - radial,
7 - gluteal,
8 - knee,
9 - upper sternal,
10 - clavicular,
11 - mid-sternal,
12 - anterior angle of the armpit,
13 - posterior angle of the armpit,
14 - waist line height point

05 . Ssh - half neck circumference. The centimeter tape runs along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebra (cervical point), and closes in front above the jugular notch.

06 . Сг1 - half chest circumference first. The measuring tape runs horizontally along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, touching the rear corners of the armpits with the upper edge, and closes in front above the base of the mammary glands.

07 . Сr2 - half chest circumference second removed sequentially after Cr1. Without moving the centimeter from the shoulder blades, it is transferred from the front to the protruding points of the chest. By using Сг1 And Cr2 determine the solution of the chest dart.

08 . SgZ - third half chest circumference. The measuring tape passes horizontally through the protruding points of the chest without taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades. The size of this measurement determines the size of the figure.

09 . St - half waist circumference. Measure along the waistline at the narrowest point.

10 . Sat - half-hip circumference. A measuring tape is applied to the most convex points horizontally around the torso, in front along a ruler applied vertically to the abdomen to take into account the protrusion of the abdomen.

11 . Wg1 - chest width first. Measure horizontally above the base of the mammary glands between the corners of the armpits.

12 . When measuring, do not hold the centimeter by the end; it is better to step back 1 - 1.5 cm to better see the angle of the armpit.

13 . The measurement cannot be increased, as in this case the armhole will be narrow.

14 . Wg2 - second chest width. This is an additional measure; it is measured horizontally between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the corners of the armpits. The measurement takes place along the protruding points of the chest. This measurement is used to clarify the size of the bust dart for a figure with a large bust and to calculate the width of the front.

15 . Lts - length of the back to the waist line. It is best to use a shoulder pad when measuring, but you can also, with the client’s consent, mark the necessary points on the body with a marker. Measure from the waist line to the base of the neck (highest point of the neckline) through the shoulder blade parallel to the spine. This is a balance sheet measure.

16 . Dts0- measure from the cervical point to the waist line parallel to the spine through a ruler applied to the protruding points of the shoulder blades. Measured in the presence of a wen or bulge in the area of the 7th cervical vertebra, when it is necessary to clarify the configuration of the back neckline.

17 . DTP - length of the front to the waistline. The measurement is taken from the base of the neck (the highest point of the neck) immediately after the measurement Dts, the centimeter passes through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. This is also a balance sheet measure.

18 . Vg - chest height- the distance from the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.

19 . Vpkp - shoulder height oblique front. Measure from the protruding point of the chest to the end point of the shoulder IMMEDIATELY after measurement Vg without changing the position of the hand on the protruding point of the chest.

It is convenient to write down not the actual measurement, but the “tail” that remains from the measurement Vg(for example 2.5 cm). This is done so as not to accidentally change the position of the nipple point, which will affect the quality of our design.

After measurement, the measure is calculated: Vg- "tail", for example,
Vpkp= 30 - 2.5 = 27.5 cm.

Measurements Accident, Vg And Vpkp are removed sequentially!

20 . CG - center of the chest. This measurement is the horizontal distance between the protruding points of the chest.

21 . Vprz - the height of the armhole at the back. Measure along the back vertically from the point of the base of the neck to the horizontal, drawn using a centimeter or ribbon at the level of the upper corners of the armpits. This measurement determines the depth of the armhole.

22 . Shs - back width. Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits. The measurement cannot be increased, as the armhole will be narrow.

23 . Vpk - oblique shoulder height. Measure from the point of intersection of the spine and waist line to the end point of the shoulder along the back through the convexity of the shoulder blade.

24 . Shpl - shoulder width, the distance from the point of the base of the neck to the final shoulder point, which, with the consent of the client, is marked with a marker before taking measurements.

25 . Then a measurement is made using the mark.

26 . Op - shoulder circumference. The measurement is taken with the arm freely lowered in the fullest upper part horizontally.

27 . Ozap - wrist circumference- measured along the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.

28 . Otherlok - Length of the arm to the elbow. Measure the distance from the shoulder point to the radial point of the arm. Measured together with a yardstick Shpl.

29 . Dr - sleeve length- measured with the arm freely lowered from the end shoulder point to the desired length.

30 . Di is the length of the product. Measure from the base of the neck parallel to the spine down to the desired length.

Chipboard - front length. Measured vertically from the waistline to the front floor.

DSB - side length. Measured vertically from the waist line to the floor at the side.

31 . Dsz - back length. Measured vertically from the waist line to the floor at the back through the bulge of the buttocks.

U - level of the bottom of the skirt. Measured vertically from the floor to the desired level of the hem of the skirt. When calculating the value of the measure U is taken away from Chipboard, Dsb And Dsz to determine the length of the skirt at each section.

32 . Additional projection measurements to determine dart openings along the waistline.

Gtr - the depth of the waist deflection in front for the bodice. Measure the horizontal distance from the vertical plane tangent to the protruding points of the chest to the waist line.

33 . Gtb - the depth of the waist deflection on the side for the bodice. Measure the horizontal distance from the vertical plane tangent to the angle of the armpit to the waist line.

34 . Gts - the depth of the back waist deflection for the bodice. Measure the horizontal distance from the vertical, lowered from the protruding point of the shoulder blades to the waist line.

35 . Gzh - the size of the abdominal protrusion. Measure the horizontal distance from the vertical plane tangent to the most protruding point of the abdomen to the waist line.

36 . Vzh - the height of the abdominal protrusion. Measure vertically from the waistline to the most protruding point of the abdomen.

37 . GB - the amount of protrusion of the hips. Measure the horizontal distance from the vertical plane tangent to the most protruding point of the thigh to the waist line.

38 . Vb - the height of the protrusion of the hips. Measure vertically from the waist line to the most protruding point of the hip.

Galia Zlachevskaya Graduated from the Faculty of Light Industry. She has developed her own methods for designing clothes. In Kazan she created the Center for Construction and Fashion Design "Galiya"

The uniqueness of the technique lies in the strict consideration of individual characteristics when creating a pattern. The process is more complicated, but the result is worth it: perfect fit and a minimum of fittings!

Free trial course. Articles - read in order.
Skirt (full details):

Taking measurements according to the method of G. Zlachevskaya
Study and description of the figure. Skirt Zlachevskaya
Skirt for an asymmetrical figure
The problem of darts when constructing a pattern
Increases in looseness of fit
Trousers (first difficulty level):
Zlachevskaya's trousers
Pants for a full figure
Skirt-pants (with modeling)
Trousers for a man's figure
Technology of sewing linen men's trousers
Possibility to download:
Tables for automatic calculation using Zlachevskaya’s method (excel):
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Constructing a skirt pattern on

Printed publications:
In 2007 G. Zlachevskaya’s book “Genetics of Cut” has been published (240 pages), it can be purchased in bookstores and online stores. Part of the book is devoted to consideration of the construction of shoulder products.

In October 2008, the second book by G. Zlachevskaya, “Secrets of cutting and sewing without fittings and adjustments. Features of designing and modeling shoulder products for any figure,” went on sale. You can take it up only after reading the first, “Genetics of Cut”!
The contents of the book and the possibility of purchasing it are in the subject

We help you master the technique yourself on the forum:
Topics are taught by Tatyana Popova, a teacher of the Zlachevskaya methodology from St. Petersburg.

In February 2008
The computer program "Cut Genetics" was published. The program has two versions: “Home” and “Professional”.

The program is customizable for any paper format and has conversion to the DXF drawing exchange format. Website of G. Zlachevskaya,

dedicated to the “Genetics of Cut” method, Center for Construction and Design of Clothing “Galia”, where you will find articles on the design and modeling of skirts and trousers, information on possible forms of training in the author’s cutting technique, training materials, a gallery of works, reviews, subscription to news. On the website you can order lessons on design and basting sewing on cassettes and DVDs.

Full-time and part-time training in cutting techniques.

Full-time training operates at the Galia Center in Kazan, as well as in its branches. All branches of the Center operate according to a single plan. The duration of full-time training is three months, 6 hours per week. The number of classes per week depends on the schedule.

In case of distance learning, materials from the Center and homework from the student are sent only by e-mail. Educational materials are presented in the form of text files, drawings, drawings and photographs.

Friday, June 29, 2012 00:35 + to quote book

In general, I am very skeptical about all methods of designing clothes. But Zlachevskaya’s method is an exception! Having firmly decided that: “Better late than never!” - with my own hands I designed a tool for taking measurements from three rulers (how could I manage without it before?), I studied all its publications, I dream and plan to purchase a home version of the program “Genetics of Cut” " Galia Mansurovna Zlachevskaya

developed her own method of designing clothes “Genetics of Cut”. In Kazan she created the Galia Fashion Design Center. The uniqueness of the method lies in the strict consideration of the individual characteristics of the figure at the stage of creating the pattern, and not in the process of fitting, as in classical methods. Naturally, you can’t do without fitting (the title of the book and the cover are a matter for marketers). But this will no longer be a fitting, but only a small clarification.

Books by Galia Zlachevskaya The books are written in a very accessible language, somewhere with humor, read on one breathing, almost like fiction, despite on that What in them serious things are told, a lot of drawings

and explanations. I would recommended study them from the started and gradually, to the design, gain experience in construction. Hurriedly, opening the book in the middle, hardly I can do it something good.

From Zlachevskaya’s book: “The client is “ripe”, the matter remains small... let’s prepare the tools for taking measurements. There are usually no problems with a flexible centimeter tape: check for the presence of a “zero” on it. For some “craftswomen” the tape begins with other numbers: Either the mice will eat it, or the children will tear it off. Be careful with other people’s ribbons!”

“The best models for any figure without fitting or fitting”

In February 2008 computer program released "Genetics of cut".

The program has two versions: “Home” and “Professional”. The program is customizable for any paper format and has conversion to the DXF drawing exchange format.

User manual: http://www.dmtalm.ru/Ruk/Ruk.htm

Classic version of the Zlachevskaya line

Zlachevskaya line not for sale in shops, it is necessary do it yourself, with variations its manufacture I have already I've seen a variety of different ones. Classical option - simplest and fast, it is also called “female”. If taken get down to business men, then, as a rule, they make more serious designs. The most important thing when removing measures - there is a right angle between the rulers; you must try to take this into account during manufacturing. In addition, the ruler should be light enough to with her be managed with one hand.

A classic version of the Zlachevskaya line. How to make it is clearly shown in the photographs. To make it you will need 3 wooden rulers, an aluminum can, and tape. You should end up with one ruler with a beveled end and 2 rulers with an aluminum eyelet. The structure should not dangle; a right angle must be maintained between the rulers - this is important for correct taking of measurements.

A little history of the clothing design program “Genetics of Cut”

The author of the “Genetics of Cut” method is Galia Mansurovna Zlachevskaya, a designer of garments, owns several proprietary methods for designing clothes, and has scientific works on design.

Since March 1999, Galia Zlachevskaya has been running sections on cutting and sewing on various information resources.

The uniqueness of the “Genetics of Cut” method lies in the fact that at the stage of creating a pattern, all the individual characteristics of a person’s figure are strictly recorded. It is necessary to take additional measurements, but thanks to this, the further stage of adjusting the product can be eliminated.

But Galia Zlachevskaya did not stop at this stage and decided to further optimize the process to make the work easier. She decided to eliminate errors when calculating a drawing for an individual figure and speed up the process of constructing patterns.

The clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” was published in February 2008. The computer program is a continuation and a good addition to the original method of Galia Zlachevskaya.

The clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” is customizable for any format and has conversion to the DXF drawing exchange format in AutoCAD. This is very convenient for exchanging files; you can create a pattern in the “Genetics of Cut” program and send it, for example, to the customer, and he can open it in AutoCAD and print it.

A new version of the clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” 1.3 is currently available

The new version of the clothing design program has added the ability to model. You do not have to re-construct the drawing, but just need to select the desired design point and pull it in the required direction, giving the line the correct shape.

In the new version of the clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” you will be able to:

Add seam allowances;
Print information about the pattern - the “Pattern” window in the “Print-View” mode;

In the new version of the clothing design program "Cut Genetics" you can zoom with the mouse wheel.

In shoulder products:

Added men's base and VPK measure;

Also in the clothing design program “Genetics of Cut” the breakdown of waist darts has been improved; now you can enter the percentage of each dart. Darts can be moved.

Updates to the design program “Genetics of the Edge” in the belt products section:

The algorithm for constructing trousers has been rewritten in accordance with the new book “Designing trousers for non-standard figures.”

Examples added:

Counter fold in front in half sun, wrap in quarter sun;

In a skirt with minimal flare, the option of constructing a side and back dart has been added;

Spiral Skirts: Based on the minimal flare skirt, a variable mesh has been added to further model spiral skirts.

Helpful information and answers to frequently asked questions:

The program is sent to your email address and linked to your computer.

The developer helps with installation.

All versions of the program are sent digitally after payment.

Friday, June 29, 2012 00:35 + to quote book

“The best models for any figure without fitting or fitting”

In February 2008 computer program released "Genetics of cut".

The program has two versions: “Home” and “Professional”. The program is customizable for any paper format and has conversion to the DXF drawing exchange format.