Checking the voltage relay. Preliminary preparation for inspection and replacement of the voltage regulator if such a need arises. Reasons for failure of the relay regulator

A voltage regulator is a device that changes the electrical voltage at the output of an electric motor when it receives a control signal. The VAZ 2114 voltage regulator is built into the electric generator and provides stabilization of the output voltage by changing the excitation current in the generator.

RN is structurally an electromagnetic relay and a series-connected transistor circuit with resistances, which themselves are connected in series to the excitation winding on the generator stator. The physical meaning of the activity of an electronic launch vehicle is as follows.

The generator voltage is unstable and changes abruptly. As it increases, the electric relay turns on additional resistance, which limits the excitation current and the voltage decreases. If, on the contrary, the voltage drops below the permissible value, the relay turns off the resistance and the magnetic flux in the field winding increases, and the generator voltage increases. Since this is all a high-frequency process, the voltage in the automotive electrical network remains within an acceptable stable value.

If we consider the launch vehicle in a practical sense, then this device solves the following problems:

this device activates the electric generator;
it exercises autonomous control over the output of alternating current;
maintains a constant set voltage value, regardless of the amplitude of oscillations generated by the primary windings of the generator.

For the generator model 9402.3701, which is mounted on a VAZ 2114, a voltage regulator 611.3702-14 is installed. This electrical appliance is mounted complete with a brush assembly. Technical characteristics of the launch vehicle:

rated voltage supported by the regulator is 14.5 V;
rated current - 5 A;
maximum weight - 60 g;
size - 66x55x32.

Operation, modifications and replacement of the voltage regulator on the VAZ 2114

Standard voltage regulators for the VAZ 2114 have a feature that is associated with the fact that it is assembled with a brush holder. Despite the fact that these two devices perform different functions, they are assembled into an one-piece device and if one of them fails, the entire set has to be removed.

A signal for checking and replacing the LV can be a low voltage on the VAZ 2114 on-board network or a drop in the level of illumination by the headlights. This can be determined by observing the capacity of the on-board battery. When the voltage supplied by the generator drops, the battery is poorly charged and the battery capacity drops. If, when monitoring the pH on a cold engine, the voltage is significantly lower than 14.6 V, then the regulator needs to be replaced.

At the same time, if the LV is in good condition, and when checking the brush assembly it is determined that the brushes are worn out or burnt, then the entire assembly will have to be replaced. This must be done if they protrude from the brush holder by less than 5 mm.

Replacing the VAZ 2114 voltage regulator is possible with your own hands. This process is relatively simple, but requires a careful approach.

Attention! The electrical parts of the vehicle must be kept clean. Any contamination leads to a decrease in the performance of the electrical part.

There is open access to where the voltage regulator is located on the VAZ 2114 and nothing interferes with the work. The LV is located under the plastic cover of the generator, which covers the entire contact group of this electrical unit.

Before starting work, you must disconnect the contact wires from the battery.

When working with electrical equipment on a car, the battery must be disconnected to prevent voltage surges or short circuits, which could result in damage to important devices or a fire.

Then you need to find a contact drive with a block that fits onto the output of the generator “D”. This block needs to be disconnected.
Remove the protective rubber cap from the “+” terminal. Using a “13” key, unscrew the nut that secures the external wires to the contact pin and remove them from the pin.
Unscrew the three clips on the sides of the plastic cover and remove it. In this case, you need to help with a flat screwdriver to press its edges around the circumference from the area of contact with the generator housing.
The voltage regulator is secured with two screws. You need to unscrew them using a Phillips screwdriver.
Disconnect the connector of wires leading to the LV and pull out the regulator body along with the brushes.
Installation of a new LV is performed in the reverse order. In this case, it is necessary to thoroughly clean all contacts and check the tightness of their fastening, otherwise the performance of this device may be incorrect.

In addition to standard regulators, the use of other devices that support the specified characteristics is allowed. Such devices include a thermally optimized RENATO LV and a three-level voltage regulator.

The RENATO pH regulates charging within a voltage range of 13.6 - 14.7 V, depending on the temperature of the electrolyte in the battery. The temperature sensor is installed on the battery and connected by a wire to the LV. Sold complete with regulator.
The three-level pH is designed to extend the battery life. In addition, it ensures optimal generator voltage under different operating conditions and, accordingly, more efficient operation of lighting equipment and the heating system of the machine.

The design of this device includes a three-position switch with several positions and, accordingly, modes:

in the minimum position, designated as “min”, a voltage of 13.6 V is maintained. This position is designed for working in difficult conditions - at high air temperatures, more than plus 20 degrees, long-term movement “uphill” or in traffic jams;
in the middle position of the switch, designated “norm”, the voltage corresponds to 14.2 V. This mode provides for the generator to operate with a warm engine and an ambient temperature from zero to plus twenty degrees;
when the switch is set to “max”, the pH maintains the voltage within 14.6 - 14.7 V. This mode is required during a cold start, engine operation at low temperatures and at full load from switched on consumers.

A factory-made three-level launch vehicle can be installed without much difficulty. A new brush holder is inserted in place of the old regulator, and the wiring from it is passed through the plastic cover of the generator. The new device is mounted on the engine compartment body in any convenient place and ensures reliable contact to ground. The wire connecting the device itself and the brushes must be insulated from high-voltage wires and the machine body. For more details on how to install a 3-level regulator, we suggest watching the video:

Despite the fact that the VAZ 2114 runs on gasoline, the electrical component in it is very important. Without maintaining the voltage within the required limits, the lighting will not be able to work, and the battery will be discharged. And most importantly, the ignition system will not be able to function without electricity, which means the engine will not work. Therefore, it is important that the electrical circuit of the machine is maintained in good condition.

Checking the functionality of the voltage regulator is a very important event.

GENERATOR

The generator is designed to generate electricity, which is so necessary for the stable operation of the vehicle's electrical equipment. Additionally, it performs the function of recharging the battery - with a discharged battery it will be impossible to start the engine. For the VAZ 2114 model, the nominal voltage of the electrical circuit is considered to be 12 Volts, but taking into account all consumers (lighting, ignition system, instruments, stove motor, windshield wiper motor, etc.) it should always be higher. Therefore, the voltage in the electrical circuit can range from 13.2 to 14.7 Volts. To maintain it at the required value, a regulator is installed in the generator circuit. Moreover, this device is present in any car, and not just on the 2114 model.

It is important for the car owner to know whether the generator produces the required current. Checking the functionality of the generator is primarily determined by the charging indicator located on the instrument panel inside the car. If the lamp lights up while the engine is running, then the generator circuit is faulty; diagnostics and, if necessary, repairs are required.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

It is not difficult to find where the VAZ 2114 generator relay is located. This device is located at the back of the generator itself under a plastic cover. Where is the charging relay on the VAZ 2114 - a question for backfilling. The fact is that the charging relay, generator relay and voltage regulator on the VAZ 14th are generally one and the same single device. It is also called a relay regulator.

What happens if the voltage in an electrical circuit drops below 13.2 Volts? The battery will stop charging, and after a fairly short period of time the starter will no longer have enough power to crank the engine to start. What if it is over 14.7 Volts? Then elements of the electrical circuit may fail, for example, the radio or one of the engine sensors (mass air flow sensor, phase sensor, etc.) will burn out.

The charging relay on the VAZ 2114 looks like a large black tablet, at the end of which there are two graphite brushes (brush assembly). If there is little or no charging, the voltage regulator is checked.

DIAGNOSTICS OF RELAY REGULATOR

Checking the functionality of the generator on a VAZ 2114 always begins by measuring the voltage of the on-board circuit with the engine running. The most convenient way to measure is with a digital multimeter:

We set up the multimeter to measure voltage and set the upper limit to 20 Volts;
We connect the probes of the device to the battery and measure the voltage with the engine turned off. The voltmeter should show somewhere between 12.5 and 13 volts;
We start the engine, the readings of the device with a good working generator should increase to about 14 Volts (maybe a little more);
With the engine running, turn on the load (high beam, dimensions, heated rear window, heater motor at maximum speed). We look at the readings of the multimeter - the device should not show less than 13.2 Volts at idle, but it is better if this indicator is in the range of 13.8-13.9.

Checking the generator voltage regulator can also be carried out on a removed device. The device assembled with the brush assembly is checked. For this:

We connect the mass terminal (minus) of the “tablet” with a wire to the minus of the battery.
We supply power (12-14 Volts) to terminals “B” and “C” from the battery.
We connect a 1-3 Watt car lamp to graphite brushes. If the relay-regulator is working properly, the lamp should light up.

There is another way to check the operation of the voltage regulator - when you need to check what the regulator's response threshold is at the upper limit. To do this, we increase the voltage in the circuit, for example, in parallel we add two or three 1.5 V AA batteries to the circuit. We need to increase the voltage to more than 16 volts, we connect everything else according to the same circuit. In this case, if the charging relay is working properly, the lamp should no longer light up.

Summarizing the results of both checks, we draw the following conclusions:

If the lamp lights up during the first check, but does not light up during the second, then the voltage regulator is working;
If the lamp lights up during both tests, the regulator has a breakdown;
If it does not light up in either case, there is a break in the device between the brushes or contacts.

REPLACEMENT

The convenient location of the VAZ 2114 voltage regulator makes it quite easy to change without removing the generator itself.

We proceed as follows:

Disconnect the battery terminals;
We unscrew the nut by 10 with a wrench and move aside the positive wires going to the generator (red and black);
We pull off the chip with a thin wire;
Remove the rear plastic cover of the generator. It is attached to three clamps, and to remove it, the clamps must be bent;
The relay regulator is mounted on two screws. Take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the screws;
The “tablet” remains hanging on the wire. Carefully pull out the plug from the device and dismantle the regulator;
We install the new part in the reverse order.

You can replace the relay regulator by removing the generator; here everyone chooses the method that will be most convenient.

OTHER REASONS FOR NO CHARGING

If the battery is not charged or is insufficiently charged, in addition to a faulty voltage regulator, there may be other reasons related to the generator:

The belt is poorly tensioned;
Poor contact or break in the wires supplying power;
Faulty rotor or stator winding;
Poor contact of the brushes with the rotor commutator, the brushes are simply worn out.

Problems of “undercharging”, as well as “overcharging” of the battery in principle, can be caused by many reasons, but the very first and most common on many cars (our VAZs are no exception here), as well as on many motorcycles, is the output of the generator relay-regulator from building. This device, despite its compactness, will protect your battery and make its service life much longer. However, if they fail, it can simply kill the battery in a matter of weeks, so if you see white streaks, and also, the engine does not start after night, even the starter does not “turn” - it’s time to check the relay regulator of your car, and here’s how it works do it yourself, and today I’ll tell you in detail...

To begin with, the definition

Relay regulator is a device that regulates the current from the car’s generator, preventing the battery from overcharging, protecting it from overcharging, which is detrimental to the battery. Thus, this device greatly extends the battery life.

Essentially, this is just a voltage stabilizer that prevents the voltage from the generator from exceeding the threshold of 14.5 Volts; it is a very accurate device and is required for all types of cars. However, it can be distinguished into two types.

Types of relay-regulator

To exaggerate, there are only two types, but each works on the same principle, namely, “cuts” or increases the voltage to the desired level.

Combined with brush assembly. Usually it is mounted on the generator itself, in the housing where the brushes are located, there is also a relay regulator.

Separate. Usually it is mounted on the car body, the wires go from the generator to it, and only then to the battery.

The housings are non-separable and tight and of a different type (often filled with sealants or special adhesives), that is, they cannot be repaired. To be honest, they are quite cheap, especially for our VAZs, so it’s easier to buy a new one than to tinker with an old one.

These are the most common types, of course, previously there were so-called ones combined with terminals, but they didn’t catch on because the device is not very convenient, so I won’t talk about them.

If your relay is “broken” and is constantly recharging, then it’s worth changing it, but first you need to make sure that this is the problem. Now there are only two ways to check: - without removing it on the car itself, and checking an already removed relay. Let's look at both options.

How to check the relay - regulator without removing it from the car?

Indirect signs

If your “regulator” is out of order, you will notice it very quickly, especially if it is winter and frost outside. The fact is that there will be either an “undercharge”. When undercharged - you simply won’t start your car - you come to the parking lot, insert the key, and the car barely turns the engine, or doesn’t start at all, sometimes even the lights go out.

When recharging – almost the same thing will happen, only the reason will be boiling away of the electrolyte from the battery cans. It can be indirectly determined by the rapid decrease in electrolyte in the banks, and a white coating on the top of the battery, as well as on parts of the body underneath it. It’s worth thinking about it and checking the regulator relay.

However, this is not our method, we need to make sure more precisely.

Correct method

To do this, we will use our voltmeter; we need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. To begin with, I would like to note that when the engine is not running it should be within 12.7V, perhaps a little less, but if you already have 12V, then the battery needs to be recharged! Or look for reasons for undercharging.

Start the engine
We set it to a value of up to 20 Volts

Connecting the probes to the terminals
If the voltage is approximately 13.2 - 14V, this is normal.
We increase the speed (say to 2000 - 2500), the voltage will begin to increase, from about 13.6 to 14.2 V, this is also normal.
Next, we try at maximum speed (more than 3500), the voltage should be from 14 to 14.5V, but no more!

If you have deviations, up or down, namely at any speed the voltage remains at 12.7V, or even drops to 12V, then this indicates a malfunction of the relay regulator.

Also, if the voltage is higher than 14.5V, for example - 15 - 16V, again the relay regulator is faulty and needs to be replaced.

To be completely honest, it is not always the relay that indicates a malfunction; often the generator itself fails. If the “regulator” is located separately, then you need to change it first; if nothing has changed, remove the generator and completely check the system. If the brush assembly is combined with the relay, then the generator must be removed!

Checking the combined relay-regulator of the car

First we will check the combined relay-regulator circuit together with the brush assembly. These are now installed on many foreign cars, and by the way, on many domestic cars (often labeled Y212A).

As you understand, it is necessary to remove the generator and disassemble it, since this combined unit is attached at the back next to the generator shaft, along which these brushes run. For this:

We look for a special “window” on the back of the generator where the brushes are immersed.
Unscrew the fastening bolt.
Remove the brush assembly.
We clean it - as a rule, it will be covered in graphite dust; the brushes are made of graphite, using special carbon.

Then we need to check it, but for this we assemble a certain circuit, it is advisable to use a power supply with an adjustable load or a charger. We also need to take a regular 12V light bulb from a car, for example from a “dimensions”, we will need wires to assemble the entire system.

We may need a battery, because many chargers do not work without it. But from the wire from the battery we connect the relay-regulator, to the brushes of which we connect a 12V light bulb, this can be done with small alligator clips, the main thing is not to break the graphite elements. A small diagram for understanding.

If you connect everything in a calm state, the light will simply light up and stay lit, this is normal, since the brush assembly is a conductor of electricity from the shaft. Let me remind you that in a calm state, the voltage on the brushes will be approximately 12.7V.

Now we need to raise the voltage on the charger to 14.5 V, the lamp will light, but when this threshold is reached it should go out! That is, 14.5 V is a kind of “cutoff” for a further increase in voltage! If you lower the value, the lamp should light up again. Then your relay-regulator is working, it passed the test.

If the voltage reaches 15 - 16V and the light is on, this means the relay has failed and needs to be replaced! It does not cause a “cut-off” and will help recharge the battery. Here's a simple check. Now a short video on the topic.

Testing an Individual Relay

Similarly, you can check a new type of regulator, that is, a separate one, here the verification process is much easier. For example, let’s take a model like Y112B; they were installed on many domestic cars before (VAZ).

This is a separate element, so we simply unscrew it from the body (sometimes from the generator cover) and attach it to our stand. Once again, I would like to remind you that it is advisable to have a 12V power supply, then the testing process will be much easier. If not, we use a charger (with adjustment modes) and connect it according to the lower diagram.

The check is the same, we increase the voltage to 14.5 V, the lamp should go out, if not, or turns off at a voltage much higher, then the relay has failed and needs to be replaced.

Old type or check 591.3702-01

This is a very old type of relay; it was installed on “penny” cars, as well as on many rear-wheel drive cars. It has also always been separately mounted on the body, but the check here is slightly different in terms of contacts.

If you take their markings, then there are only two of them - “67” and “15”. The first contact “67” is a minus, as is the relay body itself, but “15” is a plus. The principle of operation is the same, we connect our charger - we start checking, increase the voltage to 14.5V, then look at the lamp. If it turns off well, no, it’s bad, replace it.

There is another “life hack” - if you connect a light bulb, bypassing the regulator relay, to the wires that went to pins 15 and 67, then remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery - if the engine does not stall, then the generator is “live”.

What else could it be?

Often, the culprit for charging problems may not be the regulator itself, but its terminals; over time, like many on a car, they oxidize - which prevents the generator from working normally and recharging our battery, so first, before changing this unit, try to clean it, remove oxides and other deposits. By the way, this also applies to the battery terminals; they need to be cleaned and protected at least once a season.

Therefore, first of all, if the multimeter gives you 11 or slightly below 12V at the terminals of the machine, try cleaning the terminals and contacts first, then measure again. It is quite possible that this is the reason.

This is where I end the article, I think it was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

The car has long become one of the most popular vehicles, largely due to its extremely high level of comfort. Many components require replacement from time to time, and in particular the voltage generator.
In some cases, you can get by with a local method, in others it is necessary to apply a radical solution. Replacing the voltage regulator of a VAZ 2110 generator seems at first glance to be a small local problem, but it can only be solved by radically resorting to generalized repairs.
Replacing the voltage regulator on a VAZ 2110 generator is a task that you can handle on your own.

General practical information about the voltage generator in a car

The excitation potential (voltage) in the car is created by the generator under the influence of alternating current. All this happens thanks to silicon diodes, which are integrated directly into the generator itself.
The rotating armature (rotor) of the generator functions as follows:

under the influence of current, the crankshaft pulley comes into action first;
the engine crankshaft itself receives a current pulse wave directly from the poly-wedge;
as a result of pulley activation, the rotor is activated;
then the generator itself is activated.

A Brief Summary of the Main Functions of a Voltage Regulator

From a practical point of view, the voltage regulator is the main control element of the generator. If the regulator fails, then the generator will also not function.
The list of main tasks of the voltage regulator is as follows:

autonomous control of alternating current supply;
activation of the voltage generator;
maintaining the voltage within strictly specified limits, despite changes in the current strength and rotation speed of the generator itself.

Note.
Each voltage generator contains certain specifics of operation, everything depends on the specific model. In this regard, it is extremely important to read the manufacturer's manual regarding operation, which in turn will significantly extend the life of the generator.

Preliminary preparation for inspection and replacement of the voltage regulator if the need arises

List of necessary elements for checking the voltage regulator:

standard flat screwdriver;
tester;
figure eight wrench.

Note. The tools for replacing and inspecting the voltage regulator are identical.

The algorithm itself for checking and replacing the voltage regulator if there are objective reasons for this

First, you should remove the rubber cover, which in turn will allow you to connect the positive wire and the terminal together;

Now you can safely start the engine by first turning on ;
the engine must be switched to medium speed operation mode;

after which, you need to wait exactly 15 minutes and use a voltmeter to measure the value of the voltage created in this case (it must be within a strict limit of 13.8 to 14.4 Volts).

Note. If the voltage created during engine operation is not within the above limits, therefore, there is an undercharge, which in turn directly indicates a malfunction of the voltage regulator.

now it’s time to check the pin, that is, the power output of the generator relative to the mass of its body;

after which you need to make sure that the voltage of the generator power output matches;

then check the power terminal voltage.

Note. Before taking voltage measurements, you need to make sure that the terminal is tightly tightened with a nut, and its contacts are pre-cleaned and fit well together. Otherwise, it will not be possible to objectively measure electricity indicators, since they will be displayed extremely unstable.

if the voltage tester showed normal values, then all fuses and contacts of the voltage regulator blocks will need to be checked in accordance with the method described above;
if during the test it was discovered that the voltage does not correspond to the norm, then the first thing to look for is the generator belts. It is necessary to check, and if they are faulty, .

Note. If checking the voltage in the generator belts shows discrepancies with the norm, then they will simply need to be replaced immediately.

Next you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
then proceed to disconnecting the drive block from the “D+” output generator;
then move the rubber cover aside and unscrew the nut;
now it's time to disconnect all the wires in the terminal pin;
in the generator excitation circuit there is a nut that holds the terminal - it must be unscrewed;

after the nut is tightened, it will need to be removed;
the plastic casing of the generator is held in place by three nuts that must be unscrewed;
after which the casing can be easily removed;
the voltage regulator body is held in place by two nuts, they must be unscrewed;
Now you should remove the screw securing the voltage regulator from the rectifier unit;
After all the above manipulations, removing the voltage regulator is not difficult;
assembly occurs strictly in the reverse order.

Note. It is better to immediately purchase several voltage regulators, since replacing them is a completely ordinary technical manipulation.

The price of the regulator is quite low, the whole difficulty lies in carrying out the replacement itself with your own hands. The instructions for checking and replacing the voltage regulator were illustrated in detail above.
However, for its practical awareness and understanding, it is also necessary to additionally use photo and video materials. The main thing is to understand the general algorithm of actions well.
After making several independent replacements, you will gain a completely practical understanding of this procedure, which will help save a significant amount of time. The more practice, the less time needed.

The VAZ 2114 car model began to be produced not so long ago, but it has managed to establish itself in the domestic market. The car took the best characteristics of its VAZ predecessors, but some disadvantages remained. So, very often when the car is moving, it does not have enough electrical power. The problem may lie in the voltage regulator.

Unsustainable breakdown - hurry up with repairs!

It would seem that there is something wrong here - there is not enough tension. The car runs on gasoline, not electricity. However, a lack of current power leads to an increase in fuel consumption, a decrease in engine power, and some electrical appliances stop working altogether and will require replacement in the future. This is especially noticeable in the dark, when many power supply devices are used.

The first sign of lack of voltage is dim high beams - their lamps require a large number of watts. In most cases, it turns out that the battery is poorly charged.

You can deal with this problem easily and quickly by charging it properly. However, sometimes this doesn't help. Look under the hood - the battery terminals may be loose or oxidized. If in a parking lot the current still maintains a constant voltage, then during driving, due to vibration, the terminals may move away, opening the circuit. To fix the problem, you need to thoroughly lubricate the fasteners and tighten the bolts; sometimes only replacing the old terminals with new ones will help.

Generator failure - how to determine?

Then take a tester and check the voltage at the battery terminals. During this time, your partner should keep their foot on the gas pedal and maintain 3000–3500 rpm of the engine. The voltage on the tester in a VAZ 2114 car with a normal working generator should be at least 12–13 Volts. If the voltage is less, it is necessary to proceed with a detailed check of the device. Urgent repairs are also required if the current is greater than 14.7 Volts. This applies not only to the VAZ 2114, but also to other passenger cars.

When checking the operation of the generator, you need to listen to its sound. The presence of a characteristic hum or noise from belt friction indicates wear of its bearing, in which case a complete repair of the device is necessary. Also, quite often the ground contact on the car’s generator turns out to be poor, because the wire is located quite low in the VAZ 2114. During rainy weather, water gets on it, which causes oxidation of the contact terminal.

Another reason for low voltage may be a tight or sufficiently worn alternator belt. As a result, the generator may not be able to turn the required number of revolutions to maintain proper power. In this case, it is necessary to tighten it or replace it. The work of tightening or replacing the alternator belt will not take much of your time, and also does not require specific technical skills.

The voltage regulator is the basis of the generator

Then unscrew the fastenings of the voltage regulator and pull it out along with the brushes. Checking the voltage regulator should only be done with brushes. The length of normal working brushes should be at least 4–6 mm. To test the functionality of the voltage regulator at home, we will need a battery, several contact wires and a 12-volt lamp.

The light bulb must be connected to the generator brushes, and the polarity does not matter. Connect the negative contact of the battery to the regulator body, and the positive contact to the power contacts on the regulator. If all elements are properly connected and working, the light should light up. If this does not happen, then the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. There is another way out - give the regulator to an experienced electrician to check, perhaps he will fix the breakdown.

Replacing the voltage regulator in a VAZ 2114 car is a fairly simple procedure. The voltage regulator for the VAZ 2114 can be bought at any auto store, but it will not work with other VAZ models. Car owners have recently replaced the standard regulator with a three-level one. It is better to entrust its installation to an experienced specialist, since it requires minor changes to the generator housing, as well as correct reconnection of the contact terminals to the relay.

The three-level voltage regulator contains an improved relay. It makes the voltage more stable and of higher quality. However, at the VAZ 2114 plant this regulator has not yet begun to be put into mass production for cars. After completing all repair work, reassemble and connect everything in reverse order. It is recommended to charge the battery during repairs.