How harmful is it that the TV blinks when you turn on the refrigerator? Problem with electricity - TV in the apartment, help needed
Same bullshit. I have a connection via HDMI and VGA. I use it via HDMI - 2 meters. The cable is not shielded (I'm thinking of buying a shielded one 1 meter long). I tried it with filters and without filters. With filters it turns off less often.
When I connect via a VGA cable, the monitor does not go off (more precisely, the video signal does not disappear). Tried the following options:
1. I ran a copper wire from the panel - one to the refrigerator, and the second to the computer. The electricians put each wire on the panel on a machine, and all the machines on (I don’t know what the device is called, also like a switch) on a common one with the microprocessor. Did not help!
2. I connected the voltage stabilizer to both the monitor and the system unit of the computer (hereinafter referred to as the system unit), and to the monitor with the system unit. Did not help!
3. Connected both the computer and the monitor (separately and together) via an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Did not help!
4. Connected the refrigerator through an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) and a refrigerator voltage stabilizer. Did not help!
5. Called electricians, checked the sockets and panel. We took measurements. They said everything was fine. Those. Calling electricians was unsuccessful. Did not help!
6. I took the monitor to service (I have a Samsung 23"" LED, model LS23C350H is still under warranty, maximum power 30 W). An error has been detected in the power supply (I have an external one). We replaced the power supply with a new one, tested and without errors. Did not help!
7. Connected through different network filters and a specialized Pilot bit zis.ru/setevoy-filtr/pilot-bit/features. Did not help!
8. Connected via HDMI cable (2 meters) without ferrite filters. Did not help!
9. Connected via HDMI cable (2 meters) with ferrite filters. Did not help!
10. Wrap the HDMI cable with food foil. Did not help!
11. Moved the computer away from the refrigerator. Did not help!
12. Called a refrigerator technician. He checked everything. He says the refrigerator is fine. Did not help!
Electricity supply to the apartment is 5 kW.
I connected another monitor, but it was not an HDMI cable, but a DVI cable. The video signal stopped disappearing for 0.5-1 second (the monitor does not go off).
Next, a question arose about the video card and monitor controller, which is connected to the HDMI socket.
I connected the TV via an HDMI cable. When the refrigerator is turned on, the video signal does not disappear.
Therefore, the problem is not with the video card.
I contacted the service again, saying that replacing the monitor's power supply did not solve the problem. The master tells me that he doesn’t find any problems, saying that they don’t disassemble and solder on site, because... However, all faults change blockwise, but there is no visible fault, and it cannot create (simulate similar conditions). I suggested contacting Samsung (a couple of days before, I had already contacted them and talked about this problem), they suggested I contact service. I did that, but (the description above) did not help.
I contacted Samsung again, explained what was happening, that I tried connecting another monitor, everything worked.
In response, they promised to solve the problem and should contact me from customer service within one or two days. Let's wait.
Further, after a couple of weeks of negotiations with Samsung (I sent them a video of the monitor’s operation captured by a smartphone). We decided to replace the motherboard in the monitor. I took it to the service center and they replaced it, but the problem remained. Further, Samsung forced my Bel-Service service to conduct a monitor test using a refrigerator of some kind. The service checked and my words were confirmed, i.e. The monitor image disappears when the refrigerator is turned on and even when the relay is switched.
About a week later, Samsung decided that the monitor was faulty and they returned my money (I wanted to replace it, but there were no such monitors for the same price, because due to the dollar exchange rate, which had grown noticeably, all imports had become more expensive). As a result, I bought an ACER 23" with an IPS matrix for 8,500 rubles (in fact, to the previous cost, the money of which was returned to me, I added 2,000 rubles and bought a monitor that has a DVI input and a 3-year warranty. The image quality is even better than the previous Samsung monitor with a TN matrix. The main thing is that the image does not disappear when the refrigerator is turned on.
In general, if anyone has a similar problem with their monitor, feel free to indicate to the service all the actions I described + record a video of the monitor turning off and immediately bring all this information to the service and, at the same time, to the manufacturer of your monitor (to speed up the process of returning money or exchanging the monitor) .
Good luck to all!
I tried to turn off the general light - it did not respond. Lampshade only.
What could be the problem? Or are higher powers playing around?
Thank you!
Smart, maybe a TV? So he's spying on you. You turn off the lampshade, the picture becomes darker, and he starts frantically turning the camera - there’s no time to receive a signal anymore. :)
Try to find a camera on it and seal it with electrical tape :) Or drag the lampshade to another room for testing (only into an outlet with the same phase, preferably)
No camera.
Regular incandescent lamp, no dimmer.
Previously, it was turned on and off with a string up and down, now the normal switch just hangs down.
Why exactly when turning off, and not when turning on the light? I think that when the lampshade is turned on (it is always on when grandma is watching TV) then periodic glitches with digital broadcasting begin.
Another option is to use a surge protector for the equipment. (even a capacitor with a quenching resistor should help if this is the problem and not a bad contact in the junction box).
When turned on, energy consumption occurs quite smoothly. When turning off, a spark jumps while the contacts are opening. most likely, the reaction occurs precisely to it.
Another option is to use a surge protector for the equipment. (even a capacitor with a quenching resistor should help if this is the problem and not a bad contact in the junction box).
transient processes are called
When turned on, energy consumption occurs quite smoothly. When turning off, a spark jumps while the contacts are opening. most likely, the reaction occurs precisely to it.
It would be fair to talk about a spark if the load is reactive. The reactivity of an incandescent lamp is almost none.
It seems to me that you are also confused about the abrupt change. When turned on, the surge/change in current consumption should be greater than when turned off.
Cleaning the contacts on the switch is good advice, in my opinion.
Yes, the delta function does exist. For my part, I would suggest: connect an ordinary table lamp (not grandma’s age) to the lampshade socket, or, well, or any other electrical device and repeat the experiment on it. Further it will be clearer where the pheasant has settled.
I wanted to blurt this out too, but I restrained myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
She casts a spell quietly...
She sits next to her in a chair and fires at everyone.
Who will seize who, who will spank,
And God forbid she open her mouth, Showbiz, hold on!
My grandmother reads the newspaper "Life".
It would be fair to talk about a spark if the load is reactive. The reactivity of an incandescent lamp is almost none.
It seems to me that you are also confused about the abrupt change. When turned on, the surge/change in current consumption should be greater than when turned off.
Cleaning the contacts on the switch is good advice, in my opinion.
The issue may also be in the design of the switch itself. In one position it gives a spark, and in the opposite direction it returns more clearly, without a spark. The spark produces interference in the network - the digital module catches the glitch from the interference and thinks.
And if there is also old aluminum wiring, this separate section may create some voltage drop or surge when turned off.
Good afternoon
The first thing to do in such a situation is to run an extension cord and connect it directly to the input power panel. If the problem is solved, then the whole issue is due to poor-quality wiring: most likely, there is an unreliable contact somewhere, for example, in a junction box, socket or switch. What to do if the situation does not change? Consider these reasons.
Voltage drops in the network
They may be the cause of abnormal operation of the TV. A drop in voltage in the network is especially typical for suburban areas, and most often this happens in the evening and especially on weekends, when people come to rest. You just need to measure the voltage in the outlet at the moment it drops (when the TV turns off). If it is below the permissible value (the minimum value must be indicated in the TV passport), then a possible way out is to purchase a stabilizer. It is advisable to buy a device that provides the required voltage to all electrical appliances in the house at once, and not just one TV.
Before buying a stabilizer, make sure that its power will be enough for you
Household appliances as a cause of problems
A voltage drop in the network can occur, for example, due to the inclusion of a refrigerator or power tool. At the moment of startup, this equipment consumes several times more than during normal operation, which causes a voltage drop and the TV goes out. When electrical appliances begin to operate normally, 220 volts are restored and the TV begins to work. When several houses are connected to one power line, the TV will not work well if, for example, your neighbor uses electric welding or has a mini-sawmill at home. The solution here is also the same - buying a stabilizer. But it also happens that the options discussed above do not help.
Capacitor failure
It’s worth noting here that if you don’t have a friend who has at least a little knowledge of electronics, then it’s better to take the TV to a workshop, especially if it’s still under warranty. Otherwise, you need to remove the back cover and inspect the power supply unit (PSU). This may be the reason. The fact is that the power supply has a built-in stabilizer. It is quite possible that it smooths out the drop in normal voltage, but not the pulse voltage. Usually the cause is the failure of an electrolytic capacitor: a large barrel located on the power supply (its average parameters are 150-200 uF at 450 volts).
Replacement of the capacitor should only be done by a specialist! If this part is swollen, it must be replaced. To know for sure, the capacitor needs to be unsoldered and checked with a tester.
