How to set up router antennas. Practical ways to increase the range of your WiFi router

If you want to assemble a long-range WiFi antenna, then you should know about some of its features.

The first and simplest: large antennas of 15 or 20 dBi (isotropic decibels) are the maximum power, and there is no need to make them even more powerful.

Here is a clear illustration of how, as the antenna power in dBi increases, its coverage area decreases.

It turns out that as the antenna’s operating distance increases, its coverage area decreases significantly. At home, you will have to constantly catch a narrow band of signal coverage if the WiFi emitter is too powerful. Get up from the couch or lie down on the floor, and the connection will immediately disappear.

That's why home routers have conventional 2 dBi antennas that radiate in all directions - so they are most effective over short distances.

Directed

9 dBi antennas only work in a given direction (directional) - they are useless in a room, they are better used for long-distance communications, in the yard, in the garage next to the house. The directional antenna will need to be adjusted during installation to transmit a clear signal in the desired direction.

Now to the question of carrier frequency. Which antenna will work better at long range, 2.4 or 5 GHz?

Now there are new routers operating at double the frequency of 5 GHz. These routers are still new and are good for high-speed data transfer. But the 5 GHz signal is not very good for long distances, as it fades faster than 2.4 GHz.

Therefore, old 2.4 GHz routers will work better in long-range mode than new high-speed 5 GHz ones.

Drawing of a double homemade biquadrat

The first examples of homemade WiFi signal distributors appeared back in 2005.

The best of them are the biquadrate designs, which provide a gain of up to 11–12 dBi, and the double biquadrate, which has a slightly better result of 14 dBi.

According to usage experience, the biquadrate design is more suitable as a multifunctional emitter. Indeed, the advantage of this antenna is that with the inevitable compression of the radiation field, the signal opening angle remains wide enough to cover the entire area of ​​​​the apartment when installed correctly.

All possible versions of a biquad antenna are easy to implement.

Required Parts

  • Metal reflector - a piece of foil-textolite 123x123 mm, a sheet of foil, a CD, a DVD CD, an aluminum lid from a tea can.
  • Copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm2.
  • A piece of coaxial cable, preferably with a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms.
  • Plastic tubes - can be cut from a ballpoint pen, felt-tip pen, marker.
  • A little hot glue.
  • N-type connector - useful for conveniently connecting an antenna.

For the 2.4 GHz frequency at which the transmitter is planned to be used, the ideal dimensions of the biquadrate would be 30.5 mm. But still, we are not making a satellite dish, so some deviations in the size of the active element - 30-31 mm - are acceptable.

The issue of wire thickness also needs to be considered carefully. Taking into account the selected frequency of 2.4 GHz, a copper core must be found with a thickness of exactly 1.8 mm (section 2.5 mm2).

From the edge of the wire we measure a distance of 29 mm to the bend.

We make the next bend, checking the outer size of 30–31 mm.

We make the next inward bends at a distance of 29 mm.

We check the most important parameter of the finished biquadrat -31 mm along the center line.

We solder the places for future fastening of the coaxial cable leads.

Reflector

The main task of the iron screen behind the emitter is to reflect electromagnetic waves. Correctly reflected waves will superimpose their amplitudes on the vibrations just released by the active element. The resulting amplifying interference will make it possible to propagate electromagnetic waves as far as possible from the antenna.

To achieve useful interference, the emitter must be positioned at a distance that is a multiple of a quarter of the wavelength from the reflector.

Distance from emitter to reflector for biquad and double biquad antennas we find lambda / 10 - determined by the features of this design / 4.

Lambda is a wavelength equal to the speed of light in m/s divided by the frequency in Hz.

Wavelength at a frequency of 2.4 GHz is 0.125 m.

Increasing the calculated value five times, we get optimal distance - 15.625 mm.

Reflector size affects the antenna gain in dBi. The optimal screen size for a biquad is 123x123 mm or more, only in this case can a gain of 12 dBi be achieved.

The sizes of CDs and DVDs are clearly not enough for complete reflection, so biquad antennas built on them have a gain of only 8 dBi.

Below is an example of using a tea jar lid as a reflector. The size of such a screen is also not enough, the antenna gain is less than expected.

Reflector shape should only be flat. Also try to find plates that are as smooth as possible. Bends and scratches on the screen lead to the dispersion of high-frequency waves due to disruption of reflection in a given direction.

In the example discussed above, the sides on the lid are clearly unnecessary - they reduce the signal opening angle and create scattered interference.

Once the reflector plate is ready, you have two ways to assemble the emitter on it.

  1. Install the copper tube using soldering.

To fix the double biquadrat, it was necessary to additionally make two stands from a ballpoint pen.

  1. Secure everything to the plastic tube using hot glue.

We take a plastic box for discs for 25 pieces.

Cut off the central pin, leaving a height of 18 mm.

Use a file or file to cut four slots in the plastic pin.

We align the slots to the same depth

We install the homemade frame on the spindle, check that its edges are at the same height from the bottom of the box - about 16 mm.

Solder the cable leads to the emitter frame.

Taking a glue gun, we attach the CD to the bottom of the plastic box.

We continue to work with a glue gun and fix the emitter frame on the spindle.

We fix the cable on the back of the box with hot glue.

Connecting to a router

Those who have experience can easily solder to the contact pads on the circuit board inside the router.

Otherwise, be careful, thin traces may come off the printed circuit board when heated for a long time with a soldering iron.

You can connect to an already soldered piece of cable from a native antenna via an SMA connector. You shouldn't have any problems purchasing any other N-type RF connector from your local electronics store.

Antenna tests

Tests have shown that an ideal biquadrate gives a gain of about 11–12 dBi, and this is up to 4 km of directional signal.

The antenna from a CD gives 8 dBi, since it is possible to catch a WiFi signal at a distance of 2 km.

Double biquadrate provides 14 dBi - slightly more than 6 km.

The opening angle of antennas with a square emitter is about 60 degrees, which is quite enough for the yard of a private house.

About the range of Wi-Fi antennas

From a native router antenna of 2 dBi, a 2.4 GHz signal of the 802.11n standard can spread over 400 meters within line of sight. Signals of 2.4 GHz, old standards 802.11b, 802.11g, travel worse, having half the range compared to 802.11n.

Considering a WiFi antenna to be an isotropic emitter - an ideal source that distributes electromagnetic energy evenly in all directions, you can be guided by the logarithmic formula for converting dBi to power gain.

Isotropic decibel (dBi) is the antenna gain, determined as the ratio of the amplified electromagnetic signal to its original value multiplied by ten.

AdBi = 10lg(A1/A0)

Conversion of dBi antennas into power gain.

A,dBi 30 20 18 16 15 14 13 12 10 9 6 5 3 2 1
A1/A0 1000 100 ≈64 ≈40 ≈32 ≈25 ≈20 ≈16 10 ≈8 ≈4 ≈3.2 ≈2 ≈1.6 ≈1.26

Judging by the table, it is easy to conclude that a directional WiFi transmitter with a maximum permissible power of 20 dBi can distribute a signal over a distance of 25 km in the absence of obstacles.

In the modern world, for many users an uninterrupted connection to the Internet is, if not critical, then an extremely important condition. It is known that in order to obtain maximum signal reception with the best coverage area, the device must be located in the signal reception area from the Wi-Fi router.

The main reasons for a weak Wi-Fi signal

On the other hand, the main problems for high-quality reception are limitations in the range of the transmitted signal and physical obstacles in the form of walls and corners in the room. It is also impossible not to take into account the interference that occurs when there is a large number of potential network subscribers located in the reception area, as well as telephone subscribers. However, after the introduction of the DECT 6.0 standard, the influence of cordless phones on the operation of the wireless network ceased.

In the network settings of your Wi-Fi router, you can always see the names and number of users who are currently connected to the network. In order to limit such access to “unwanted guests”, it is enough to come up with and set a password for accessing the Internet, and also encrypt it using the WPA2 security system.

There are also a number of other reasons why communication may not be ideal. Luckily, we have some troubleshooting tips to help improve your signal. And most of them won't cost you a penny.

1. Update your Wi-Fi router firmware

Despite the fact that manufacturers usually release routers with the latest firmware, sometimes it becomes necessary to update it in order to increase the performance and speed of the equipment. Usually the update occurs automatically by clicking the corresponding button in the router settings. In older router models, you need to download the latest firmware from the manufacturer's website.

In any case, it is recommended to update it periodically, even if you have the latest version installed. This will ensure the latest security, functionality and performance updates are installed. Below are the network settings of the router.


2. Place the router correctly

As already mentioned, the router develops its maximum data transfer speed in open space. However, it is often convenient to hide the device somewhere in a closet or on a shelf, next to the network cable running along the wall. In addition, the speed and coverage area may be affected by other electronic devices located nearby.

Related article: How to distribute Wi-Fi via a Samsung Galaxy smartphone

If the router has external antennas, they should be positioned vertically. Besides, For better signal reception, the device should be placed higher. There are both hardware methods for determining signal strength (Heatmapper or inSSIDer for the office) and software methods (Netgear’s Wifi Analytics).

3. Choose the optimal frequency

First, you need to make sure that the optimal frequency is set in the router settings. If you can switch to the 5GHz frequency, then most likely doing so will improve performance as opposed to the standard 2.4GHz frequency.


But not every router supports the 5 GHz frequency.

4. Change the current channel

All modern routers are multi-channel. However, the channel may not be able to withstand the heavy load arising from connecting several devices.

If several routers within the same range are configured to the same channel, congestion may occur.


On computers with the Windows operating system, you can see which channels are used by neighboring Wi-Fi networks. To do this, on the command line (in Windows 7) you need to type

netsh wlan show all

A list of all wireless networks and channels used within the device's operating range will be displayed. For example, at PC Labs, most connected devices use channels 6 and 11.

After this, you need to select the channel that is less busy and manually switch the router to it. This can be done in the web interface in the wireless network settings section.

5. Prioritize

Most modern routers come with Quality-of-Service (QoS) tools to limit communication bandwidth. This is done so as not to “clog” the channel when downloading large video files or when using Voice over IP (VoIP) frequently. This tool allows you to set priorities and limit the download speed of data.


QoS settings can usually be found in the advanced settings in the web interface. You can also manage the priorities of the data used using multimedia or gaming settings.

6. Upgrade legacy hardware

Time passes, and technology also does not stand still, which means sooner or later network equipment becomes obsolete and it’s time to change it. In particular, communication standards are being improved: the outdated 802.11b and 802.11g (54 Mbit/s) have been replaced by faster 802.11n (300 Mbit/s) and 802.11ac (1 Gbit/s).

Related article: Serious Wi-Fi vulnerability discovered

In addition, the hardware network adapter in your computer may also become outdated. You should make sure that it is compatible with new standards (at least 802.11n, and preferably 802.11ac). For laptops, a wireless USB network adapter can be used, which usually supports new communication standards. Otherwise, you should replace the device with a more modern one.

The latest trend in this area is 802.11ac multiple-input (MU-MIMO) routers. Models such as the Linksys EA7500 Max-Stream AC1900 can simultaneously send and receive multiple data streams to multiple devices without sacrificing throughput, and clients must be MU-MIMO compatible.

7. Replace the antenna

Modern antennas also come with a number of requirements. For the best signal, the antenna should be external and omnidirectional. However, in the case of an omnidirectional antenna, you should pay attention to the gain.

It must be high enough so that the signal does not dissipate and the data transfer rate does not decrease. If there are places in the room with a stronger signal reception area, a narrowly directional antenna may be a more reasonable solution. For more detailed information on purchasing such antennas, please visit the manufacturer’s website.

8. Use an amplifier to increase the signal range

In large rooms, the coverage area may not be sufficient for stable high-speed signal reception. In this case, it is necessary to use a signal amplifier or, as it is also called, a range extender. It can also be useful for rooms with thick walls and massive physical objects.

These amplifiers look similar to a router, but their operating principle is different. To begin with, they adapt to the operating frequency of the router and simply relay its operation. In fact, this is another network device with its own IP address. The amplifier should be located near the router to maintain a stable connection with it, as well as with an area of ​​weak signal reception for more effective amplification in this area.

When purchasing such a device, you should make sure that it, like the router, supports one communication standard (preferably 802.11ac) and operates at the same frequency (2.4 GHz or 5 GHz). Otherwise, the amplifier can be of any brand. For more detailed information, you can read the article on testing modern wireless amplifiers.

A weak WiFi signal is a pressing problem for residents of apartments, country houses and office workers. Dead zones in a WiFi network are typical for both large rooms and small apartments, the area of ​​which even a budget access point can theoretically cover.

The range of a WiFi router is a characteristic that manufacturers cannot clearly indicate on the box: the WiFi range is influenced by many factors that depend not only on the technical specifications of the device.

This material presents 10 practical tips that will help eliminate the physical causes of poor coverage and optimize the range of your WiFi router; you can easily do it yourself.

The radiation from the access point in space is not a sphere, but a toroidal field, shaped like a donut. In order for WiFi coverage within one floor to be optimal, radio waves must propagate in a horizontal plane - parallel to the floor. For this purpose, it is possible to tilt the antennas.

The antenna is a donut axis. The angle of signal propagation depends on its inclination.

When the antenna is tilted relative to the horizon, part of the radiation is directed outside the room: dead zones are formed under the “donut” plane.

A vertically mounted antenna radiates in a horizontal plane: maximum coverage is achieved indoors.

On practice: Mounting the antenna vertically is the easiest way to optimize indoor WiFi coverage.

Place the router closer to the center of the room

Another reason for the occurrence of dead zones is the poor location of the access point. The antenna emits radio waves in all directions. In this case, the radiation intensity is maximum near the router and decreases as it approaches the edge of the coverage area. If you install an access point in the center of the house, the signal will be distributed throughout the rooms more efficiently.

A router installed in a corner transmits some of the power outside the house, and distant rooms are at the edge of the coverage area.

Installation in the center of the house allows you to achieve even distribution of the signal in all rooms and minimize dead zones.

In practice: Installing an access point in the “center” of the house is not always feasible due to the complex layout, lack of sockets in the right place, or the need to lay a cable.

Provide direct visibility between the router and clients

WiFi signal frequency is 2.4 GHz. These are decimeter radio waves that do not bend well around obstacles and have low penetrating ability. Therefore, the range and stability of the signal directly depend on the number and structure of obstacles between the access point and clients.

Passing through a wall or ceiling, an electromagnetic wave loses some of its energy.

The amount of signal attenuation depends on the material the radio waves travel through.

*Effective distance is a value that determines how the radius of a wireless network changes in comparison with open space when a wave passes an obstacle.

Calculation example: WiFi 802.11n signal propagates under line-of-sight conditions over 400 meters. After overcoming the non-permanent wall between the rooms, the signal strength decreases to 400 m * 15% = 60 m. The second wall of the same type will make the signal even weaker: 60 m * 15% = 9 m. The third wall makes signal reception almost impossible: 9 m * 15 % = 1.35 m.

Such calculations will help calculate dead zones that arise due to the absorption of radio waves by walls.

The next problem in the path of radio waves: mirrors and metal structures. Unlike walls, they do not weaken, but reflect the signal, scattering it in arbitrary directions.

Mirrors and metal structures reflect and scatter the signal, creating dead zones behind them.

If you move interior elements that reflect the signal, you can eliminate dead spots.

In practice: It is extremely rare to achieve ideal conditions when all gadgets are in direct line of sight to the router. Therefore, in a real home, you will have to work separately to eliminate each dead zone:

  • find out what interferes with the signal (absorption or reflection);
  • think about where to move the router (or piece of furniture).

Place the router away from sources of interference

The 2.4 GHz band does not require licensing and is therefore used to operate household radio standards: WiFi and Bluetooth. Despite the low bandwidth, Bluetooth can still interfere with the router.

Green areas - stream from the WiFi router. Red dots are Bluetooth data. The proximity of two radio standards in the same range causes interference, reducing the range of the wireless network.

The magnetron of a microwave oven emits in the same frequency range. The radiation intensity of this device is so high that even through the protective screen of the furnace, the magnetron radiation can “illuminate” the radio beam of the WiFi router.

Microwave oven magnetron radiation causes interference on almost all WiFi channels.

On practice :

  • When using Bluetooth accessories near the router, enable the AFH parameter in the settings of the latter.
  • The microwave is a powerful source of interference, but it is not used very often. Therefore, if it is not possible to move the router, then you simply won’t be able to make a Skype call while preparing breakfast.

Disable support for 802.11 B/G modes

WiFi devices of three specifications operate in the 2.4 GHz band: 802.11 b/g/n. N is the newest standard and provides greater speed and range than B and G.

The 802.11n (2.4 GHz) specification provides greater range than legacy B and G standards.

802.11n routers support previous WiFi standards, but the mechanics of backward compatibility are such that when a B/G device appears in the N-router's coverage area - for example, an old phone or a neighbor's router - the entire network is switched to B/G mode. Physically, the modulation algorithm changes, which leads to a drop in the speed and range of the router.

In practice: Switching the router to “pure 802.11n” mode will definitely have a positive effect on the quality of coverage and throughput of the wireless network.

However, B/G devices will not be able to connect via WiFi. If it is a laptop or TV, they can be easily connected to the router via Ethernet.

Select the optimal WiFi channel in the settings

Almost every apartment today has a WiFi router, so the density of networks in the city is very high. Signals from neighboring access points overlap each other, draining energy from the radio path and greatly reducing its efficiency.

Neighboring networks operating at the same frequency create mutual interference, like ripples on the water.

Wireless networks operate within a range on different channels. There are 13 such channels (in Russia) and the router switches between them automatically.

To minimize interference, you need to understand which channels neighboring networks operate on and switch to a less loaded one.
Detailed instructions for setting up the channel are provided.

In practice: Selecting the least loaded channel is an effective way to expand the coverage area, relevant for residents of an apartment building.

But in some cases there are so many networks on the air that not a single channel provides a noticeable increase in WiFi speed and range. Then it makes sense to turn to method No. 2 and place the router away from the walls bordering neighboring apartments. If this does not bring results, then you should think about switching to the 5 GHz band (method No. 10).

Adjust the router transmitter power

The power of the transmitter determines the energy of the radio path and directly affects the range of the access point: the more powerful the beam, the further it hits. But this principle is useless in the case of omnidirectional antennas of household routers: in wireless transmission, two-way data exchange occurs and not only clients must “hear” the router, but also vice versa.

Asymmetry: the router “reaches” a mobile device in a distant room, but does not receive a response from it due to the low power of the smartphone’s WiFi module. The connection is not established.

In practice: The recommended transmitter power value is 75%. It should be increased only in extreme cases: turning the power up to 100% not only does not improve the quality of the signal in distant rooms, but even worsens the stability of reception near the router, since its powerful radio stream “clogs” the weak response signal from the smartphone.

Replace the standard antenna with a more powerful one

Most routers are equipped with standard antennas with a gain of 2 - 3 dBi. The antenna is a passive element of the radio system and is not capable of increasing the flow power. However, increasing the gain allows you to refocus the radio signal by changing the radiation pattern.

The higher the antenna gain, the further the radio signal travels. In this case, the narrower flow becomes similar not to a “donut”, but to a flat disk.

There is a large selection of antennas for routers with a universal SMA connector on the market.

In practice: Using an antenna with high gain is an effective way to expand the coverage area, because simultaneously with the signal amplification, the sensitivity of the antenna increases, which means the router begins to “hear” remote devices. But due to the narrowing of the radio beam from the antenna, dead zones appear near the floor and ceiling.

Use signal repeaters

In rooms with complex layouts and multi-story buildings, it is effective to use repeaters - devices that repeat the signal from the main router.

The simplest solution is to use an old router as a repeater. The disadvantage of this scheme is that the throughput of the child network is half as much, since along with client data, the WDS access point aggregates the upstream flow from the upstream router.

Detailed instructions for setting up a WDS bridge are provided.

Specialized repeaters do not have the problem of reducing bandwidth and are equipped with additional functionality. For example, some Asus repeater models support the roaming function.

In practice: No matter how complex the layout, repeaters will help you deploy a WiFi network. But any repeater is a source of interference interference. When there is free air, repeaters do their job well, but with a high density of neighboring networks, the use of repeater equipment in the 2.4 GHz band is impractical.

Use 5 GHz band

Budget WiFi devices operate on the 2.4 GHz frequency, so the 5 GHz band is relatively free and has little interference.

5 GHz is a promising range. Works with gigabit streams and has increased capacity compared to 2.4 GHz.

In practice: “Moving” to a new frequency is a radical option, requiring the purchase of an expensive dual-band router and imposing restrictions on client devices: only the latest models of gadgets work in the 5 GHz band.

The problem with WiFi signal quality is not always related to the actual range of the access point, and its solution broadly comes down to two scenarios:

  • In a country house, most often it is necessary to cover an area in free air conditions that exceeds the effective range of the router.
  • For a city apartment, the range of a router is usually sufficient, but the main difficulty is eliminating dead zones and interference.

The methods presented in this material will help you identify the causes of poor reception and optimize your wireless network without resorting to replacing the router or the services of paid specialists.

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I decided to prepare an article with tips on strengthening the signal of a Wi-Fi network. On the Internet, there are many different articles on this topic, but in almost every article there is a lot of unnecessary information. More precisely, a lot of recommendations for some settings that have nothing to do with increasing the range of the Wi-Fi signal and cannot in any way affect the range of the network itself.

If we are talking about strengthening the Wi-Fi signal, then of course we will introduce the coverage radius of the network itself, that is, the Wi-Fi range. For example: we bought a router, installed it, configured it, but in the farthest rooms there is no Wi-Fi at all, or the signal level is too weak. Or, the router is installed on the ground floor (where there is a signal), and on the second floor the signal is already very weak or absent altogether. A common situation that many people face, and I’ve encountered this myself.

What determines the range of a Wi-Fi network? There are a lot of different factors: from the router itself (number and strength of antennas), from the walls in your house, from the number of neighboring Wi-Fi networks, from the location of the router, some other interference, etc. Many people ask you to recommend a router that, for example, will provide a stable Wi-Fi signal for a three-room apartment, a private house, and etc. In such cases, it is impossible to advise anything specific. Everyone has different conditions, different walls, etc. The only thing I can advise is to roughly focus on the area of ​​your home. If, for example, you have a one-room apartment, then even an inexpensive router with one antenna with a power of 3 dBi will cope with its task without any problems. Well, if you have a larger house or apartment, then take a more expensive device. Although, price is not always an argument. I have an expensive one, three antennas, some kind of proprietary Asus function that increases the network coverage radius. So, under the same conditions, at the same distance, it does not show much better results than the same one. Which has internal antennas, and is several times cheaper.

How to strengthen the Wi-Fi signal in the router settings?

If you have already purchased and installed a router at home or in the office, and Wi-Fi is not available everywhere you need it, then you can try to strengthen the wireless network. We will now look at how to do this. You can strengthen the signal both using the settings in the router and using separate devices and devices.

1 Search and change the channel on the router. If your devices see many of your neighbors’ networks available for connection, then all these networks can load the channel on which your network operates, and thereby reduce the network’s range.

You can try setting some kind of static channel in the router settings, or setting it to Auto. This is where you need to experiment. If you are not too lazy, then using the inSSIDer program you can find a freer channel and set it in the settings of your router.

I won’t go into detail, I’ll just give you a link to the article. In it, I talked in detail about channels, and how to find an unloaded channel. Also, there are instructions for changing the channel on routers from different manufacturers.

2 We switch our network to 802.11N operating mode. As a rule, by default on all routers the wireless network operates in mixed mode b/g/n (11bgn mixed). If you force the router to broadcast Wi-Fi in 802.11N operating mode, this can increase not only the speed, but also the Wi-Fi coverage range (if your router has more than one antenna).

The only problem is that if you have older devices that don't support 802.11N mode, they simply won't see your network. If you don't have any older devices, then don't hesitate to switch your network to n mode. It's very easy to do. We go into the router settings, usually at the address 192.168.1.1, or 192.168.0.1 (see detailed instructions on entering the settings).

In settings, open the tab where you configure the wireless network. They are usually called like this: Wi-Fi, Wireless mode, Wireless network, Wireless, etc. Find the item there Wireless mode(Mode) and set it to N only. That is, the network operates only in N mode.

For example: changing the wireless network mode on an Asus router

Save the settings and reboot the router. If you have problems connecting devices, return the mixed mode back.

3 We check the transmission power in the router settings. On some routers, it is possible to set the power level of the wireless Wi-Fi network. As far as I know, the default is maximum power. But, you can check.

In Asus routers, these settings can be changed on the tab Wireless network - Professionally. At the very bottom, there is a point " Tx power control". There is a scale that can be adjusted in percentages. It looks like this:

On Tp-Link routers, open the tab Wireless - Wireless Advanced. Paragraph Transmit Power allows you to adjust the signal strength. The High value means maximum power.

These settings will be more useful if you want, on the contrary, to reduce the signal strength of your Wi-Fi router.

How to increase the range of a Wi-Fi network using additional devices?

1 Installing a repeater, or setting up a second router in amplifier mode. Of all the recommendations that you will see here, or generally find on the Internet, this method is the most effective and reliable. True, you will have to spend money on a repeater.

Ordinary routers can act as a repeater. Here are the instructions for setting up ZyXEL and Asus routers in repeater mode:

If your Wi-Fi does not reach some rooms, then installing a repeater will solve this problem. And if you have a house with several floors, then you can install a router on the first floor, and a repeater on the second. Excellent and working scheme.

2 Changing the router antennas to more powerful ones. If your router has removable antennas, you can buy more powerful ones, and thereby slightly increase the coverage of your network. Why a little? Yes, because replacing antennas usually does not give a very good result. It exists, but not enough to increase the radius by several rooms. In any case, you will have to spend money on antennas. And it seems to me that this money would be much better spent on a repeater. Yes, it will cost more, but the benefits from it are much greater.

If you decide to change antennas, then take powerful ones with a gain of 8 dBi. But they are expensive, and several of these antennas will cost as much as a repeater.

I already wrote, you can see the results.

3 Buying a new router, switching to 5 GHz. You can buy a more powerful, expensive router. Better yet, a router that supports the 5 GHz band. What is the advantage of the 5 GHz range? It is practically free, now most all networks and other devices operate in the 2.4 GHz range. Less interference means more speed and greater network range.

There are places where a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network practically does not work. It glitches all the time, connection drops, low speed, etc. And all because there are so many different networks. In such cases, switching to 5 GHz solves all problems.

1 Select the correct location for your router. This is actually very good and effective advice. As a rule, everyone installs routers at the entrance, or in some distant rooms. The correct location of the router will allow the signal to be distributed correctly, thereby increasing the Wi-Fi range.

Simply put, you need to install the router as close to the center of the house as possible. Yes, this doesn’t always work out, since you need to lay a cable to the router, and pulling it to the middle of the house is not very convenient. But even minor movements of the router can increase the network level in the rooms you need. Also, you need to remember that walls are the enemy of Wi-Fi networks.

2 Homemade amplifiers for Wi-Fi antennas. You can find many instructions that show how to make amplifiers for a router. As a rule, this is ordinary foil and tin cans. It turns out that if we place a sheet of foil on one side of the antenna, the signal will bounce off it and be directed in the direction we need.

I think this is all nonsense. Firstly, a cut beer can or a piece of foil on the back of the router doesn’t look very nice, and secondly, it has virtually no effect. You can check.

These are the tips. I think you have found a suitable way for yourself to increase the range of your Wi-Fi network. Share your tips in the comments!

A weak WiFi signal is a pressing problem for residents of apartments, country houses and office workers. Dead zones in a WiFi network are typical for both large rooms and small apartments, the area of ​​which even a budget access point can theoretically cover.

The range of a WiFi router is a characteristic that manufacturers cannot clearly indicate on the box: the WiFi range is influenced by many factors that depend not only on the technical specifications of the device.

This material presents 10 practical tips that will help eliminate the physical causes of poor coverage and optimize the range of your WiFi router; you can easily do it yourself.

The radiation from the access point in space is not a sphere, but a toroidal field, shaped like a donut. In order for WiFi coverage within one floor to be optimal, radio waves must propagate in a horizontal plane - parallel to the floor. For this purpose, it is possible to tilt the antennas.

The antenna is a donut axis. The angle of signal propagation depends on its inclination.

When the antenna is tilted relative to the horizon, part of the radiation is directed outside the room: dead zones are formed under the “donut” plane.

A vertically mounted antenna radiates in a horizontal plane: maximum coverage is achieved indoors.

On practice: Mounting the antenna vertically is the easiest way to optimize indoor WiFi coverage.

Place the router closer to the center of the room

Another reason for the occurrence of dead zones is the poor location of the access point. The antenna emits radio waves in all directions. In this case, the radiation intensity is maximum near the router and decreases as it approaches the edge of the coverage area. If you install an access point in the center of the house, the signal will be distributed throughout the rooms more efficiently.

A router installed in a corner transmits some of the power outside the house, and distant rooms are at the edge of the coverage area.

Installation in the center of the house allows you to achieve even distribution of the signal in all rooms and minimize dead zones.

In practice: Installing an access point in the “center” of the house is not always feasible due to the complex layout, lack of sockets in the right place, or the need to lay a cable.

Provide direct visibility between the router and clients

WiFi signal frequency is 2.4 GHz. These are decimeter radio waves that do not bend well around obstacles and have low penetrating ability. Therefore, the range and stability of the signal directly depend on the number and structure of obstacles between the access point and clients.

Passing through a wall or ceiling, an electromagnetic wave loses some of its energy.

The amount of signal attenuation depends on the material the radio waves travel through.

*Effective distance is a value that determines how the radius of a wireless network changes in comparison with open space when a wave passes an obstacle.

Calculation example: WiFi 802.11n signal propagates under line-of-sight conditions over 400 meters. After overcoming the non-permanent wall between the rooms, the signal strength decreases to 400 m * 15% = 60 m. The second wall of the same type will make the signal even weaker: 60 m * 15% = 9 m. The third wall makes signal reception almost impossible: 9 m * 15 % = 1.35 m.

Such calculations will help calculate dead zones that arise due to the absorption of radio waves by walls.

The next problem in the path of radio waves: mirrors and metal structures. Unlike walls, they do not weaken, but reflect the signal, scattering it in arbitrary directions.

Mirrors and metal structures reflect and scatter the signal, creating dead zones behind them.

If you move interior elements that reflect the signal, you can eliminate dead spots.

In practice: It is extremely rare to achieve ideal conditions when all gadgets are in direct line of sight to the router. Therefore, in a real home, you will have to work separately to eliminate each dead zone:

  • find out what interferes with the signal (absorption or reflection);
  • think about where to move the router (or piece of furniture).

Place the router away from sources of interference

The 2.4 GHz band does not require licensing and is therefore used to operate household radio standards: WiFi and Bluetooth. Despite the low bandwidth, Bluetooth can still interfere with the router.

Green areas - stream from the WiFi router. Red dots are Bluetooth data. The proximity of two radio standards in the same range causes interference, reducing the range of the wireless network.

The magnetron of a microwave oven emits in the same frequency range. The radiation intensity of this device is so high that even through the protective screen of the furnace, the magnetron radiation can “illuminate” the radio beam of the WiFi router.

Microwave oven magnetron radiation causes interference on almost all WiFi channels.

On practice :

  • When using Bluetooth accessories near the router, enable the AFH parameter in the settings of the latter.
  • The microwave is a powerful source of interference, but it is not used very often. Therefore, if it is not possible to move the router, then you simply won’t be able to make a Skype call while preparing breakfast.

Disable support for 802.11 B/G modes

WiFi devices of three specifications operate in the 2.4 GHz band: 802.11 b/g/n. N is the newest standard and provides greater speed and range than B and G.

The 802.11n (2.4 GHz) specification provides greater range than legacy B and G standards.

802.11n routers support previous WiFi standards, but the mechanics of backward compatibility are such that when a B/G device appears in the N-router's coverage area - for example, an old phone or a neighbor's router - the entire network is switched to B/G mode. Physically, the modulation algorithm changes, which leads to a drop in the speed and range of the router.

In practice: Switching the router to “pure 802.11n” mode will definitely have a positive effect on the quality of coverage and throughput of the wireless network.

However, B/G devices will not be able to connect via WiFi. If it is a laptop or TV, they can be easily connected to the router via Ethernet.

Select the optimal WiFi channel in the settings

Almost every apartment today has a WiFi router, so the density of networks in the city is very high. Signals from neighboring access points overlap each other, draining energy from the radio path and greatly reducing its efficiency.

Neighboring networks operating at the same frequency create mutual interference, like ripples on the water.

Wireless networks operate within a range on different channels. There are 13 such channels (in Russia) and the router switches between them automatically.

To minimize interference, you need to understand which channels neighboring networks operate on and switch to a less loaded one.
Detailed instructions for setting up the channel are provided.

In practice: Selecting the least loaded channel is an effective way to expand the coverage area, relevant for residents of an apartment building.

But in some cases there are so many networks on the air that not a single channel provides a noticeable increase in WiFi speed and range. Then it makes sense to turn to method No. 2 and place the router away from the walls bordering neighboring apartments. If this does not bring results, then you should think about switching to the 5 GHz band (method No. 10).

Adjust the router transmitter power

The power of the transmitter determines the energy of the radio path and directly affects the range of the access point: the more powerful the beam, the further it hits. But this principle is useless in the case of omnidirectional antennas of household routers: in wireless transmission, two-way data exchange occurs and not only clients must “hear” the router, but also vice versa.

Asymmetry: the router “reaches” a mobile device in a distant room, but does not receive a response from it due to the low power of the smartphone’s WiFi module. The connection is not established.

In practice: The recommended transmitter power value is 75%. It should be increased only in extreme cases: turning the power up to 100% not only does not improve the quality of the signal in distant rooms, but even worsens the stability of reception near the router, since its powerful radio stream “clogs” the weak response signal from the smartphone.

Replace the standard antenna with a more powerful one

Most routers are equipped with standard antennas with a gain of 2 - 3 dBi. The antenna is a passive element of the radio system and is not capable of increasing the flow power. However, increasing the gain allows you to refocus the radio signal by changing the radiation pattern.

The higher the antenna gain, the further the radio signal travels. In this case, the narrower flow becomes similar not to a “donut”, but to a flat disk.

There is a large selection of antennas for routers with a universal SMA connector on the market.

In practice: Using an antenna with high gain is an effective way to expand the coverage area, because simultaneously with the signal amplification, the sensitivity of the antenna increases, which means the router begins to “hear” remote devices. But due to the narrowing of the radio beam from the antenna, dead zones appear near the floor and ceiling.

Use signal repeaters

In rooms with complex layouts and multi-story buildings, it is effective to use repeaters - devices that repeat the signal from the main router.

The simplest solution is to use an old router as a repeater. The disadvantage of this scheme is that the throughput of the child network is half as much, since along with client data, the WDS access point aggregates the upstream flow from the upstream router.

Detailed instructions for setting up a WDS bridge are provided.

Specialized repeaters do not have the problem of reducing bandwidth and are equipped with additional functionality. For example, some Asus repeater models support the roaming function.

In practice: No matter how complex the layout, repeaters will help you deploy a WiFi network. But any repeater is a source of interference interference. When there is free air, repeaters do their job well, but with a high density of neighboring networks, the use of repeater equipment in the 2.4 GHz band is impractical.

Use 5 GHz band

Budget WiFi devices operate on the 2.4 GHz frequency, so the 5 GHz band is relatively free and has little interference.

5 GHz is a promising range. Works with gigabit streams and has increased capacity compared to 2.4 GHz.

In practice: “Moving” to a new frequency is a radical option, requiring the purchase of an expensive dual-band router and imposing restrictions on client devices: only the latest models of gadgets work in the 5 GHz band.

The problem with WiFi signal quality is not always related to the actual range of the access point, and its solution broadly comes down to two scenarios:

  • In a country house, most often it is necessary to cover an area in free air conditions that exceeds the effective range of the router.
  • For a city apartment, the range of a router is usually sufficient, but the main difficulty is eliminating dead zones and interference.

The methods presented in this material will help you identify the causes of poor reception and optimize your wireless network without resorting to replacing the router or the services of paid specialists.

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