Pinout of USB connectors. USB connector pinout: regular, mini, micro

Currently, all mobile devices and desktop electrical appliances have data ports in their arsenal. Modern gadgets can not only exchange information through USB or micro-USB, but also to charge batteries. In order to carry out proper pinout of contacts, you first need to study the diagrams and colors of the wires.

USB cable wire colors

Connector diagram for USB 2.0

In the diagram you can see several connectors that differ from each other according to a certain characteristic. For example, an active (power) device is designated by the letter A, and a passive (connected) device is designated by the letter B. Active devices include computers and hosts, while passive devices include printers, scanners, and other devices. It is also customary to separate connectors by gender: M (male) or “male” is the plug, and F (female) or “female” is the connector socket. There are formats by size: mini, micro and without marking. For example, if you encounter the designation “ USB micro-VM", this means that the plug is designed to connect to a passive device using the micro format.

To pin out sockets and plugs, you will need knowledge about the purpose of the wires in a USB cable:

The red VBUS (“plus”) carries a constant voltage of 5 Volts relative to GND. The minimum electric current value for it is 500 mA;
the white wire is connected to the negative (D-);
the green wire is attached to the “plus” (D+);
The black color of the wire means that the voltage in it is 0 Volts, it carries a negative charge and is used for grounding.

In mini and micro formats, the connectors contain five contacts each: red, black, white and green wires, as well as an ID (which in connectors of type A is shorted to GND, and in connectors B is not used at all).

Sometimes you can find a bare Shield wire in the USB cable. This wire has no number.

If you use a table in your work, then the connector in it is shown from the outside (working) side. The insulating parts of the connector are light gray, the metal parts are dark gray, and the cavities are marked white.

In order to carry out the correct USB wiring, you need to mirror the image of the front part of the connector.

Connectors for mini and micro USB formats consist of five contacts. Therefore, the fourth contact in type B connectors will not have to be used in operation. This contact in type A connectors is connected to GND, and the fifth is used for GND itself.

As a result of some simple manipulations, you can do it yourself.

USB wiring version 3.0 differs by the addition of four colored wires and additional grounding. Due to this, the cable USB 3.0 noticeably thicker than its younger brother.

Schemes for connecting USB devices to each other and wiring the device plugs:

Reading circuits: inductor, coil, capacitor Convenient fringe cutter for transformers. Soldering iron heating regulator with power indicator Household fan repair Homemade pressure sensor

Most modern mobile phones, smartphones, tablets and other wearable gadgets support charging via a mini-USB or micro-USB USB socket. True, a single standard is still far away and each company is trying to do the pinout in its own way. Probably they should buy the charger from her. It’s good that the USB plug and socket itself were made standard, as well as the supply voltage of 5 volts. So, having any charger adapter, you can theoretically charge any smartphone. How? and read on.

Pinout of USB connectors for Nokia, Philips, LG, Samsung, HTC

Brands Nokia, Philips, LG, Samsung, HTC and many other phones will recognize the charger only if the Data+ and Data- pins (2nd and 3rd) are shorted. You can short them in the USB_AF socket of the charger and easily charge your phone via a standard data cable.

Pinout of USB connectors on the plug

If the charger already has an output cord (instead of an output jack), and you need to solder a mini-USB or micro-USB plug to it, then you do not need to connect pins 2 and 3 in the mini/micro USB itself. In this case, you solder the plus to 1 contact, and the minus to the 5th (last).

Pinout of USB connectors for iPhone

For iPhones, the Data+ (2) and Data- (3) contacts should be connected to the GND (4) contact through 50 kOhm resistors, and to the +5V contact through 75 kOhm resistors.

Samsung Galaxy charging connector pinout

To charge the Samsung Galaxy, a 200 kOhm resistor must be installed in the USB micro-BM plug between pins 4 and 5 and a jumper between pins 2 and 3.

Pinout of USB connectors for Garmin navigator

A special data cable is required to power or charge your Garmin navigator. Just to power the navigator via cable, you need to short-circuit pins 4 and 5 of the mini-USB plug. To recharge, you need to connect pins 4 and 5 through an 18 kOhm resistor.

Pinout diagrams for charging tablets

Almost any tablet computer requires a large current to charge - 2 times more than a smartphone, and charging through the mini/micro-USB socket in many tablets is simply not provided by the manufacturer. After all, even USB 3.0 will not provide more than 0.9 amperes. Therefore, a separate nest (often round type) is placed. But it can also be adapted to a powerful USB power source if you solder this adapter.

Pinout of the charging socket of the Samsung Galaxy Tab tablet

To properly charge the Samsung Galaxy Tab tablet, they recommend another circuit: two resistors: 33 kOhm between +5 and jumper D-D+; 10 kOhm between GND and jumper D-D+.

Pinout of charging port connectors

Here are several diagrams of the voltages on the USB contacts, indicating the values of the resistors that allow these voltages to be obtained. Where a resistance of 200 Ohms is indicated, you need to install a jumper whose resistance should not exceed this value.

Charger port classification

SDP(Standard Downstream Ports) – data exchange and charging, allows current up to 0.5 A.
CDP(Charging Downstream Ports) – data exchange and charging, allows current up to 1.5 A; hardware identification of the port type (enumeration) is performed before the gadget connects the data lines (D- and D+) to its USB transceiver.
DCP(Dedicated Charging Ports) – charging only, allows current up to 1.5 A.
ACA(Accessory Charger Adapter) - PD-OTG operation is declared in Host mode (with connection to PD peripherals - USB-Hub, mouse, keyboard, HDD and with the possibility of additional power supply), for some devices - with the ability to charge PD during an OTG session .

How to remake a plug with your own hands

Now you have a pinout diagram for all popular smartphones and tablets, so if you have the skill to work with a soldering iron, there will be no problems converting any standard USB connector to the type your device needs. Any standard charging that is based on the use of USB involves the use of only two wires - +5V and a common (negative) contact.

Just take any 220V/5V charging adapter and cut off the USB connector from it. The cut end is completely freed from the shield while the remaining four wires are stripped and tinned. Now we take a cable with a USB connector of the desired type, after which we also cut off the excess from it and carry out the same procedure. Now all that remains is to simply solder the wires together according to the diagram, after which insulate each connection separately. The resulting case is wrapped on top with electrical tape or tape. You can fill it with hot glue - also a normal option.

Bonus: all other connectors (sockets) for mobile phones and their pinouts are available in a single large table -.

Content:

In our age of computer technology, smartphones and gadgets, it is difficult to find a person who does not know what USB connectors are. Also, almost everyone understands words such as mini- and micro-USB connector. After all, we use such things almost every day, which is natural. Similar connectors are found on the charger and on all peripheral devices of the computer.

But what to do if the soldering has come off at the base, and there is no way to even understand what color and what contact was soldered to? This is where knowledge should be applied, and now let’s try to figure out which ones.

The wiring of such a plug, or, in other words, the pinout of a USB cable, inherently does not involve anything overly complicated. Once you get the sequence and colors figured out, anyone who can hold a soldering iron can do this kind of work.

But first you need to understand what a USB plug is.

What is a USB connector?

At its core, it is a connector with many capabilities, ranging from USB power to transmitting complex information data. This cable replaced the previously used options for connecting to a computer (PS/2 ports, etc.). Today it is used for all devices connected to a personal computer, be it a mouse, flash drives, printer, camera or modem, joystick or keyboard - USB cables have become truly universal.

There are three types of such connectors:

1.1 - its purpose is already outdated peripheral devices with the ability to transmit information at only one and a half megabits per second. Of course, after a little modification by the manufacturer, the transmission speed rose to 12 Mbit/s, but it still couldn’t stand the competition with higher-speed options. Of course, when Apple already had a connector that supported 400 Mbit/s. Now there are also such types, but there are very few of them, since faster USB wires, mini USB, and in general, USB speed occupies a special place in human life. Everyone is in a hurry somewhere, in a hurry to live, there are people who practically do not sleep, and therefore the faster the information is downloaded, the more preferable the connector is, right?
2.0. At the end of the last century, the second generation of such connectors was released. Here the manufacturer has already tried - the transmission speed has increased to almost 500 Mbit/sec. And it was intended mainly for complicated gadgets, like a digital video camera.
3.0 - this is really high technology. The maximum data transfer rate of 5 Gbit/s provided this USB connector with demand, which practically reduced the first and second versions to zero. In the third series, the number of wires has been increased to nine versus four. However, the connector itself has not been modified, and therefore you can still use the types of the first and second series with it.

Pinout designations

When looking at the pinout diagram, you need to understand all the symbols that are present on it. Usually indicated:

Type of connector - it can be active (A) or passive (B). A connection between a printer, scanner, etc. is called passive. In general, a connector that only works to receive information. Through the active it is possible to receive and transmit data.
The shape of the connector is “mother”, that is, a socket (F), and “male” is a plug (M).
Connector sizes - regular, mini and micro.

For example, USB AM, that is, an active USB plug.

The wires should be arranged by color as follows (from left to right):

The red wire is positive, constant voltage 5V. with a maximum current of 500 milliamps.
White wire - data-
Green wire - data+
Black wire - this wire is common, ground, negative. There is no voltage on it.

But the mini and micro connector include 5 wires with this arrangement:

The wires are red, white and green - arranged similarly to the first option.
ID - this wire in connectors “B” is free. In “A” it must be connected to a black wire.

Sometimes the connector may contain a separate wire without insulation - this is the so-called “ground”, which is soldered to the body.

According to the presented diagrams, the external side is visible here. In order to solder the plug yourself, you need to take a mirror image of the picture, and as it probably became clear, the microUSB pinout is no more complicated than that of conventional USB connectors.

By the way, if the damaged parts of the cable are intended to be used only for charging mobile phones, it will be more convenient to look at the colors of the wires and solder only black and red. This connector is quite enough for a phone; it will charge it. What to do with the rest of the wires? You don't need to do anything with them.

They brought a Chinese tablet with the words “not charging.”

Having plugged the charger into the connector, I immediately realized that the connector had simply been torn out from the board. The most common breakdown. Well, let's start dissecting our client. To do this, we peer around the perimeter of the tablet with a tenacious gaze and look for the screws that hold it together. Without thinking for a long time, we unscrew these screws

Voila!

I don’t see any point in disassembling where the memory chip, processor and other various microchips are located, since basically repairing a tablet involves replacing the touchscreen, display and connectors.

And here is the micro-USB charging connector. That's what we need to replace.

Now we need to get the board. Unscrew all the bolts that hold it in place. We also remove all the cables that go to the board. To do this, lift the clasp with your finger up.

If the wires get in the way, we unsolder them too. I only unsoldered the battery. Since our connector was torn out with meat and broken, we immediately throw it away. We begin to clean the seat for the new connector. To remove solder in through holes, we need a low-melting Wood or Rose alloy. To begin with, generously tin the holes with this alloy, and do not forget to also coat them with gel flux. We heat the through hole along with the alloy using a soldering iron and then sharply, using a desoldering pump, pull all the solder out of the hole

I took the rubber tip for the desoldering pump from an old CD car radio. I don’t know what they do there, but there are even two of them there.

Now we remove all excess solder from the contact pads (spots) using copper braid and a heated soldering iron

After this procedure on the signal contacts using a soldering iron, solder and gel flux, we need to leave solder tubercles on each contact pad. Although this photo is from a different repair, the example should look something like this:

Now we take a new connector and lubricate its contacts using LTI-120 flux

A little about the connectors... There are a ton of these micro USB connectors! Almost every manufacturer of tablets, phones and other crap uses its own micro USB connectors. But I still found a way out ;-). I went to Aliexpress and bought myself a whole set at once. Here link. But now I have all kinds of connectors for Chinese phones and tablets;-)

Once the connector has been anointed, we tin its contacts with solder. The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise the connector will not fit into the through holes on the board.

Everything else is simple. We insert the connector, solder the through contacts on the other side, and then generously lubricate the signal contacts of the connector with gel flux and press down each contact with the tip of a tip. (Sorry, it’s inconvenient to take a photo, since I only have two hands, and there was no one nearby)

and then we clean the connector from poop and carbon deposits

We do everything as it was and check the tablet:

Charging is in progress. This completes the tablet repair.

Due to studying abroad, I had to switch completely to a laptop. I took my gaming mouse SS Kana with me. Of course, a wired mouse is not designed for frequent movements; over time, the cord began to break at the very base, and contact began to disappear more and more often. Over the past three months, I tried to keep the mouse working, I even stopped taking it to classes, but P-day came and the contact was completely lost; no manipulations produced any results.
My Greed for an expensive mouse and Laziness to go buy a new one rallied against me and forced me to repair the contact. I’ll immediately make a reservation that I’m writing this article after the fact, I didn’t write down anything step by step, but I’ll show you with an example how it’s done. The quality of the photographs leaves much to be desired, but you can get the gist.

Equipment

Knife. All. I don't have electrical tape or any tools on hand.
An ordinary kitchen knife. Sharp enough to cut insulation without problems.
The initial version included soldering with a government soldering iron received at the university, but due to some circumstances, which I will describe below, I had to redo everything all over again.

Initial version

As I already said, the cable broke at the very base. To get some space, I planed the plug with a knife and stripped all four wires. I twisted the cable braid and turned it to the side, after which I went to the university to get a soldering iron. They gave me an old soldering iron, a spool of millimeter solder and a jar of flux. I have soldering experience, so it turned out fine. The only drawback is that since all four wires are very short, located at the same level, and I had no insulation, it turned out to be a kind of “rose” of wires sticking out in different directions. However, the test run was successful - the mouse came to life, and I, proud of myself, returned to the hostel.
But disappointment awaited me there. Without going into details, I most likely had a short in the black and red wires and the laptop blocked the USB socket. Therefore, no matter what I did next, the mouse did not react.
Trying to figure it out, I began to blame the braid (that it shortens the wires), I even cut it off, but nothing helped. In the end, I completely cut off the plug and decided to do everything anew. It would be worth restarting the computer and trying again, most likely the mouse would work. Who knows...

The connection is very small, I don’t have a normal camera. It’s just that all four wires stick out in a bunch from the plug and a corresponding wire is soldered to each. The braid is cut off because I thought she was shorting the wires. Doesn't matter.

Connecting cables

In the evening I took the mouse out of the desk drawer and got to work. First of all, I took a new plug from an unnecessary mini-USB cable.

USB cables are not much different from each other - four wires (black and red for power, white and green for information) and a braid. Therefore, any USB cable will do.

When repairing, I used the method described. In short, multi-core cables are connected by a “ladder”. Thus, the wires do not touch each other and the connection is thinner.
Using the example of the remaining piece of wire, I will show how this is done. First, carefully cut the top insulation to a length of about four to five centimeters.

Unravel the braid and take it aside.

Then we expose 4 wires in a “ladder” - red only the very tip to twist; the white one is a little longer, so as not to touch the red one; then green. We clean the black one the furthest. We expose the other cable in exactly the same way, only in a mirror way - only the tip is black, then green, white and red at the very base. Thus, we eliminate the short circuit of the wires with each other.

All that remains is to connect the two cables to each other. We connect each wire with a twist. I hope you don't confuse the colors. After twisting, it is better to cut off the excess wires to avoid unnecessary contacts.

In my version, I also covered the whole thing with a piece of top insulation to avoid contact with the braid. In the future, I plan to either get electrical tape somewhere, or ask the girls for colorless varnish for insulation.

After treatment with electrical tape, of course, it will all take on a divine appearance, but for now the braid will hang in such a strange way. The connection is working, there are no unnecessary contacts. The mouse works like new!

However

The mouse immediately refused to work. I was already in complete despair when I noticed a system message about problems with the USB inputs. As I already said, the original version shorted the contacts and the laptop cut off the USB inputs. After rebooting, the mouse started working again. Of course, the connection is short-lived, there is no way without electrical tape, but the mouse works.

Thank you for your attention. I hope this article helped you.

P.S. This is my first article on Habré. Thanks for the invite!