Macbook new battery does not charge. MacBook won't charge

The MacBook charger is amazing! An elegant solution is to charge using magnets. This allows you not only to prevent accidental falls of the laptop when you touch the cable, but also helps you easily connect it for recharging. But there are times when the plug-in charger does not want to fulfill its intended purpose. Let's figure out why this happens and what can be done about it.

1. Original accessory

No matter how strange it may sound (read), you must understand that a non-original charger can fail much faster than a branded power adapter. There may be many reasons for this, but basically it all comes down to banal low-quality components and assembly “on the knees”.
Of course, the original charger can also fail, but the chances of this are much less.

2. Working socket

If everything is fine with the adapter, it is original, then it’s time to check its connection. Firstly, make sure that the cable is plugged into the connector, and secondly, trace its other end - it should be in the outlet. If everything is fine with this, you should try another socket; perhaps the cause of all the troubles lies not in the adapter, but in the socket itself, which is in the wall.

3. Debris in the connector

This may come as a surprise to some, but excess dirt and dust can also become clogged in the charging connector. Naturally, this may prevent your laptop from charging and/or taking a long time to charge.
Be sure to check the connector and if you find dust in it, remove it from there. It is best to do this with a can of compressed air if the dirt is very stuck. For some, this is a completely common situation that happens quite often, especially if your lifestyle involves constant travel for business trips.

4. Reset SMC

Well, we checked everything and didn’t seem to find any flaws. But the laptop still refuses to charge. Let's try resetting the System Management Controller (SMC). This often helps with various unusual behaviors of your computer, such as fans not working properly, not detecting a connected charger, not charging, not working properly when going into sleep or wake mode, and many others.

To reset the SMC you will need to follow a few simple steps:

1. Turn off your MacBook completely.
2. Connect the MagSafe power adapter to it.
3. Press and hold the Shift+Control+Option+Power keys for about four seconds and then release them at the same time.
4. Press the Power button to turn on the laptop with the controller settings reset.

If you have an older Apple laptop, these steps may be different. In order to make sure that your actions are correct, it is best to resort to the official instructions on the Apple website.

Please note that resetting the SMC affects all power-related settings, so if you changed any of the settings in Power Saver Settings, you will need to reset them.

Now all that remains is to connect the charger and see how the laptop charges. If the problem persists, then most likely you should contact a service center, since the problem may be in the adapter itself (a very rare occurrence), or in the MacBook's power board (an even rarer occurrence). But often the above tips help in most cases.

Have YOU experienced problems charging your MacBook? If yes, how were they resolved? Share your tips in the comments!

Carrying out free diagnostics, service center technicians divide the causes of failure into Software (software) and Hardware (hardware). The charging process and charge distribution among the MacBook components is controlled by the motherboard. Some processes, such as: Setting the time to go into sleep mode or turn off the screen, can be controlled directly from the OS.

MacOS software crashes.

Information about all errors is stored in NVRAM and SMC memory, which can simply be erased.

Clearing errors in PRam and NVRam.

  • - NVRam

(Non Volatile Random Access Memory), abbreviated as NVRAM, is a type of operational memory capable of storing data without electrical power. The current is supplied through a separate channel, regardless of whether the laptop is turned off or in sleep mode. The following parameters are stored in NVRam:

  • - Mac OS volume level.
  • - Display resolution.
  • - Active boot area.
  • (Boot volume failure, causing a folder to appear on the desktop - "?", when starting MacOS)

  • - Log of critical errors.
  • (If this log remains saved, then after eliminating the problem, the laptop continues to believe that it is still present)

    For example, if you change the HDD or its cable, MacOS will show a folder with a question mark. If there was a critical error about the state of the battery, MacOS can determine that it is low.

    The operating system constantly looks at the contents of NVRAM, so when changing any components or repairing a MacBook, it is recommended to reset all memory values.

    To clear NVRAM, after turning on the MacBook, you need to press and hold the buttons - ALT + Command + R + P until the greeting signal appears again. Erasing this section of memory will not affect other data and files.

    • - PRAM

    Older models use PRAM. Its cleaning is performed by the same command. We simply press the same keys, wait for the second greeting, and then release the keys. Just set the date, time, screen resolution and volume again.

    Clearing memory (System Management Controller).

    SMC (System Management Controller) The memory of this microcircuit stores data about the battery level, charge percentage, etc. In addition, it controls the cooler and helps display the image on the external screen. In case of data corruption and errors:

  • - The MacBook is not charging.
  • - The charge percentage is displayed incorrectly.
  • - The light on MagSafe changes color or does not light up at all.
  • - The cooling system cooler operates unevenly.
  • - Image output does not work properly.
  • Clean the SMC to get rid of these faults.

    On a MacBook with a removable battery, just remove it and hold down the Power key for 5 seconds. Insert it back and connect MagSafe.

    MacBook in UniBody case and modern versions, with a built-in battery, memory reset is performed by the key combination CTRL + SHIFT + ALT + Power (Power button). Be sure to turn off the power supply before cleaning.

    You need to perform cleaning with the machine turned off or at least in a sleep state. During cleaning, all components are turned off at the same time, which harms the hard drive or solid-state SSD.

    Reset controller errors on battery.

    Status information is not only stored in the NVRAM or SMC chip of the MacBook. On original elements from Apple, there is a control chip located in the battery case itself. To reset the information, you will have to remove the battery, which in modern MacBooks is better done in the service center, because For this operation, professional tools and firmware programming are required.

    If you leave the laptop with a discharged battery for two to three weeks, it will go into “protection mode”. The controller will send a signal and turn off the board. It is extremely difficult to charge the gadget using a regular charger connection. In this situation, flashing the controller firmware on the battery helps. For such a procedure, you need to contact the PlanetIPhone service center.

    After completing the diagnostics, if there are any problems with the MacBook, you will be shown an error code, you need to write it down! If the OS issued code PPT004, then it’s time to change the battery.

    If the diagnostics went smoothly and the MacBook Pro does not charge, then you can rule out the faulty battery and start looking for faulty problems elsewhere.

    Faulty MacBook power supply.

    The check should start with the unit, connecting a 100% working, compatible charger or using a special adapter, because MagSafe generations are different.

    Attention! The unit must be the same power that you used to charge your Mac. A 45w unit from a MacBook Air is not enough to charge a MacBook Pro, which has 60 watt for the 13-inch and 85 watt for the 15 and 17-inch models.

    If the old charger does not charge the MacBook, but the battery charge is above 15%, when you connect a 45w power supply, the power indicator on the MagSafe connector may light up, but the battery will recover very slowly. If the laptop is not turned on, this manipulation may not help.

    The chargers supplied in the kit and their copies, class AAA and A+, are made from good, high-quality parts and last up to 5-7 years, but over time, the characteristics and level of output voltage changes and sags. Capacitors can burn out without checking with a multimeter, this malfunction cannot be detected. An oscilloscope will also help in detecting a breakdown.

    In addition to exceeding its service life, the charger breaks down due to a voltage drop in the network and contact with water.

    There is an option to repair the power supply, change the MagSafe cables or solder the capacitors, but the price will be equal to the cost of a new unit. Moreover, it is considered maintenance-free. We cannot guarantee the operation of the power supply after soldering.

    If problems are identified with the charging unit, we recommend replacing it. The service can offer high-quality, inexpensive copies that employees use. Battery won't charge when plugged into MacBook Air? Well, it’s worth moving on to checking the battery.

    We detect a faulty battery.

    Almost always, an OS message is displayed about a problem with the battery. The built-in sensor, based on the collected indicators, calculates the approximate date for replacing the battery. Notifications will be sent - “Service required” or “Replacement required”. When the battery is no longer usable, the indicator in the macOS panel is marked with a cross.

    You can predict the time when you need to change the battery yourself, simply by looking at the number of charge and discharge cycles of the battery. Click on the Apple logo in the upper left corner, “About This Mac”, then “System Report”. The number of recharges should be up to 700. If there are more, it is better to immediately contact the service center and replace it.

    If the firmware for the battery controller, which was described above, did not help and the MacBook does not charge, there is an option to replace the control board or the controller itself. It may fail after contact with liquid. Or replacing individual lithium-ion battery cells that are swollen. Of course, it is better to replace such an element.

    Malfunction of the charging connector on the MacBook.

    If the battery and charging are working properly, you should take a closer look at the connector itself. Over a long period of time, a coating of oxides appears on the surface of the connector, and the contacts wear off a little and burn out.

    The “Binding” breaks down - this is a group of power circuits located on the board, with MagSafe. If the wiring burns out, the connector can be resoldered and the removed capacitors and transistors can be replaced. Sometimes, simply cleaning the connector helps.

    MagSafe is always on a separate circuit, be it the old UniBody models or the new Retina ones. In the Mac Air line, there is also a Mini Jack 3.5mm and USB outputs, which is why replacing the connector is a little more expensive.

    If, after cleaning the MagSafe connector, the MacBook does not charge, there is the last and worst option left.

    Checking the motherboard and its power traces.

    If, after diagnostics, you have ruled out all of the above problems, and the MacBook does not charge because the power circuits are faulty, specifically the PWM controller and SMC.

    The main problem with SMC replacement is the availability of a suitable donor. Each model has its own firmware. The service center engineers looked through all those communities, forums and all information in the public domain and so far no one has been able to reflash the SMC. Because of this reason, you will need to find a MacBook with a working controller.

    Such repairs are not easy and not every service will undertake it. If, after diagnostics at PlanetIPhone, it is determined that the Shim controller is faulty, only soldering a new Shim will help.

    The ISL circuits used in the MacBook, manufactured by INTERSIL, contain a pulse-width modulator, which consists of a group of comparators. It is needed to generate different voltage levels on the mat circuit. fees. (5v, 3.3 volts, “standby”) and their control via different circuits.

    SMC, PWM controller and ISL are involved in various processes occurring in the laptop. Their incorrect operation or failure is associated with:

    • - Short circuit in the circuit.
    • - A sharp drop in current in the network.
    • - Faulty components in Mac.

    You can fix the problem by simply resoldering the components, but you won’t be able to detect the problem instantly. PlanetIPhone service specialists can examine the board under a microscope for several hours in a row, looking for burnt-out circuits, etc.

    Of course, you can solve the problem of why the MacBook Air does not charge on its own! For a person in general, nothing is impossible! But then, most likely, you are the owner of one of the services for repairing Apple equipment or a very experienced shareholder who has professional equipment, access to a factory, with original components, and has a colossal amount of time to independently look for the cause.

    Advantages of "PlanetIPhone".

    Summing up, we found out that there are a lot of reasons why the MacBook Pro battery does not charge. From a banal faulty unit or a charger clogged with dirt, to a short circuit in the microarchitecture. Bring it to PlanetIPhone. We diagnose and identify all breakdowns for free. Here are a few more advantages that make us superior to all competitors.

    • - Free visit of a specialist to an address in Moscow.
    • - Diagnostics is a gift, even if you decide to postpone repairs until later!
    • - The lowest price in Moscow, including spare parts, labor and warranty.
    • - Warranty from 3 to 6 months. (it can be extended)
    • - All services are within walking distance from metro stations.

    If you haven't found the answer to why your MacBook won't charge, come to PlanetiPhone for a free diagnosis.

    If you find that your Macbook Pro's battery can no longer be charged from the original adapter, do not rush to poke it with a soldering iron. As stupid as it may sound, the first thing to do is:

    1. make sure the contact in the socket is reliable (do not use a broken one);

    2. make sure that there is power in the outlet (plug another, known working device into it);

    3. check that the laptop’s power socket is not filled with foreign objects (usually food crumbs, compressed dust balls and other insects get there);

    4. Carefully inspect the yellow contacts of the connector. They should not be burnt, blackened, or oxidized. When you try to push them in, the pins should come back without jamming. It is advisable not to scratch the gold-plated coating again;

    5. make sure that the cord from the adapter to the connector has no mechanical damage, no kinks, no bare wires sticking out from under the insulation, no office chair running over it, etc. You can easily replace a damaged wire with your own hands with any other appropriate cross-section. In MacBooks, there are only two wires from the power supply to the Magsafe 2 connector:

    If you are a very lucky person, simply unplugging the adapter for a few minutes can save you. It happens that, due to a power surge in the network, the charger goes into protection and needs time to think about the blocking being reset.

    Sometimes, when you connect the adapter to a Macbook, the charging indicator does not light up, but in fact it is charging. The fact is that the required indicator (orange or green) is lit upon command from the SMC system management controller located in the MacBook. Sometimes, due to accumulated errors, the SMC begins to fail and then resetting the controller helps.

    To do this, you need to connect the adapter to a completely switched off (not sleeping, namely switched off) MacBook, press the key combination Shift+Control+Option and, without releasing them, press Power. Then, simultaneously releasing all the buttons, turn on the laptop with the controller reset.

    If all else fails, you will have to make a friend with exactly the same MacBook and quietly swap chargers with him and try to connect to his charger. It is not necessary that your friend has exactly the same adapter - a more powerful one will also work. The main thing here is that the connectors match. [Comment : According to one of the comments to this article, a less powerful power supply will also be suitable for testing]

    If your MacBook battery does not charge with your charger, but when you connect someone else’s charger everything starts working as it should, then your charger is broken. Your cap. The bravest ones can tell their wife that the purchase of a mink coat is canceled again, since the MacBook is more important. The rest will have to repair the adapter themselves.

    I happened to have a faulty power supply with a MagSafe 2 connector and a power of 60 W, so the following will mostly be true for this adapter. This charger was included with 13-inch MacBook Pro models with Retina display:

    • MD212, MD213 (late 2012)
    • MD212, ME662 (early 2013)
    • ME864, ME865, ME866 (late 2013)
    • MGX72, MGX82, MGX92 (mid 2014)
    • MF839, MF840, MF841, MF843 (early 2015);

    Macbook Pro charging repair

    Before you dig into the internals, it's useful to know how the charging process is initiated. You might be surprised, but Apple engineers managed to integrate microprocessor control even into such a simple device as a charger. Here are the key points:

    1. operating voltage is 16.5 Volts. However, as long as the adapter is not connected to a load, its output has an open circuit voltage (about 3V) with a current limit of ~0.1 mA;
    2. After connecting the connector to the MacBook, the adapter output is loaded with a calibrated resistive load, due to which the open circuit voltage drops to a level of ~1.7V. The 16-bit microcontroller in the charger detects this fact and after 1 second commands the output switches to output full voltage. Such difficulties allow you to avoid sparking and burning of the connector contacts when connecting the charger to the laptop;
    3. when connecting too much load, as well as in the presence of a short circuit, the open circuit voltage will drop significantly below 1.7V and the turn-on command will not follow;
    4. The Macbook Pro power connector contains a DS2413 microchip, which immediately after connecting to the MacBook begins exchanging information with the SMC controller via the 1-Wire protocol. The exchange takes place over a single-wire bus (middle contact of the connector). The charger tells the laptop information about itself, including its power and serial number. The laptop, if everything suits it, connects its internal circuits to the adapter and tells it the current operating mode, based on which one of the two LEDs in the connector lights up. The entire exchange of pleasantries takes less than 100 milliseconds;

    Considering the above, it is unlikely that you will be able to charge your MacBook without its original charger. It's also not possible to check the power supply without a MacBook.

    Theoretically, for testing, you can connect a 39.41 kOhm resistor to the two extreme contacts of the Magsafe connector (which is not so easy to do, given the design of the connector). After a second, a voltage of 16.5 Volts should appear on the resistor. In this case, the indicator on the connector will not light up.

    For those who don't know, the Apple Magsafe 2 power supply connector has the following pinout:

    This clever design of the charging socket allows you to connect your Macbook without worrying about polarity.

    Despite the fact that the original adapter has all kinds of foolproof protection built in, you should not treat it with disdain. The power of this power supply is enough to burn you with flames at the first opportunity, splash you with molten metal and scare the crap out of you... hiccups.

    How to painlessly disassemble the adapter

    To disassemble the Macbook charger you will have to use brute force, since the halves of the case are glued to each other. The most painless option is to use pliers as shown in this video:

    I was able to disassemble the power supply from my Macbook Pro in 2-3 minutes (most of the time was spent finding a convenient stop for the pliers). After this, light traces of an autopsy still remain:

    After the case is opened, you need to carefully inspect the printed circuit board to identify burnt tracks, charred resistors, swollen or leaking electrolytes and other anomalies.

    The board will most likely be filled with some kind of compound; it needs to be carefully removed. And it would be nice not to tear off anything unnecessary.

    It wouldn't hurt to immediately ring the 3.15A fuse. Here it is, in a brown case:

    If the fuse is faulty, then this usually indicates a breakdown of either the diode bridge, or the power MOSFET, or both. These elements burn most often, since they bear the main load. They are very easy to find - they are located on a common radiator.

    If the field-effect transistor is knocked out, it makes sense to check the low-resistance resistor in the source circuit and the entire snubber circuit (R5, R6, C3, C4, D2, two chokes FB1, FB2 and capacitor C7):

    When repairing a Macbook power supply, it is strongly recommended to connect it to a 220V network through a 60-watt light bulb. This will prevent devastating consequences in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.

    Be extremely careful! A high-voltage capacitor can maintain life-threatening voltage for a long time. I got caught once and it was extremely unpleasant.

    If, after replacing the faulty elements, the power supply does not start, then, alas, further repair of the Apple Magsafe 2 charger is impossible without an electrical circuit diagram.

    By the way, the most reliable way to find out whether the circuit is working or not is to measure the voltage at the output electrolytes. On the working adapter there should be 16.5V:

    Magsafe 2 adapter circuit (60 Watt)

    It was not possible to find a schematic diagram of the Macbook power supply, so there was nothing left to do but copy it from the printed circuit board. Here is the most interesting fragment:

    As can be seen from the diagram, the charger is assembled according to the classic circuit of a single-cycle switching power supply. The heart of the converter is the DAP013F chip - a modern quasi-resonant controller that allows you to achieve high efficiency, low noise levels, and also implement protection against overload, overvoltage and overheating.

    At the initial moment of time, after connecting the adapter to the socket, there is no voltage on winding turns 1-2; accordingly, the voltage at the gate of transistor Q33 is zero, and it is closed. At its drain, the voltage is equal to the operating voltage of the zener diode ZD34, which is supplied there from a full-wave rectifier formed by diodes D32, D34 and part of the power diode bridge BD1, through a chain of resistors R33, R42.

    Transistor Q32 is open and capacitor C39 begins to charge from the same diode rectifier (via the circuit: R44 - ZD36 - Q32). The voltage from this capacitor is supplied to the 14th leg of the IC34 microcircuit, which, through its internal switch, is connected to pin 10 and, accordingly, to a 22 µF electrolytic capacitor C (we could not find its designation on the board). The initial charging current of this capacitor is limited to 300 μA, then, when the voltage across it reaches 0.7 V, the current increases to 3-6 mA.

    When capacitor C reaches the startup voltage of the microcircuit (about 9V), the internal oscillator starts, pulses from the 9th pin of the microcircuit are sent to gate Q1, and the entire circuit comes to life.

    From this moment on, the voltage of the IC34 microcircuit is supplied from capacitor C, the voltage on which is generated from winding 1-2 of the transformer through the rectifier diode D31. In this case, the internal switch of the microcircuit breaks the connection between the 14th and 10th pins.

    Protection against excessive increase in output power is implemented using elements ZD31 - R41 - R55. When the voltage at the output of winding 1-2 increases above the breakdown voltage of the zener diode, a negative potential appears at the 1st pin of the microcircuit, which leads to a proportional decrease in the amplitude of the pulses at the 9th pin.

    Overheating protection is implemented using an NTC31 thermistor connected to the 2nd pin of the microcircuit.

    The 4th pin of the microcircuit is used to determine the moment of switching of the output switch at the points of minimum current.

    The 6th pin of the microcircuit is designed to stabilize the output voltage of the adapter. The feedback circuit includes an optocoupler IC131, which provides galvanic isolation of the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the adapter. If the voltage on the 6th leg drops below 0.8V, the converter switches to reduced power mode (25% of the rated power). For correct operation in this mode, a capacitor C36 is required. To return to normal operation, the voltage on the 6th leg must rise above 1.4V.

    The 7th leg of the microcircuit is connected to the current sensor R9 and if a certain threshold is exceeded, the operation of the converter is blocked. Capacitor C34 sets the time interval for the auto-recovery system after an overcurrent.

    Pin 12 of the microcircuit is designed to protect the circuit from overvoltage. As soon as the voltage on this leg exceeds 3V, the microcircuit goes into blocking and will remain in this state until the voltage on capacitor C drops below the controller reset level (5V). To do this, you need to unplug the adapter from the network and wait a while.

    It seems that this adapter does not use the overvoltage protection functionality built into the chip (in any case, I was not able to trace where resistor R53 is connected to). Apparently this role is assigned to transistor Q34, connected to the feedback circuit in parallel with optocoupler IC131. The transistor is controlled by voltage from winding 1-2 through a resistive divider R51-R50-R43 and in the event of, for example, an optocoupler malfunction, it will not allow the microcircuit to increase the converter voltage uncontrollably.

    Thus, this 60-watt power adapter implements three-fold protection against exceeding the output voltage of permissible limits: an optocoupler in the feedback circuit, a Q34 transistor in the same circuit, and a ZD31 zener diode connected to the 1st leg of the microcircuit. Add here also protection against overheating and overcurrent (short circuit). This turns out to be a very reliable and safe charger for a MacBook.

    In Chinese chargers, most of the protection systems are thrown away, and, in the interests of economy, there are no circuits for filtering RF interference and eliminating static electricity. And although these crafts are quite functional, you have to pay for their cheapness with a higher level of interference and an increased risk of failure of the laptop power board.

    Now, having the diagram in front of your eyes and imagining how it should work, it will not be difficult to find and fix any malfunction.

    In my case, the malfunction of the adapter was caused by an internal break in resistor R33, which is why transistor Q32 was always locked, voltage did not flow to the 14th leg of the controller, and accordingly, the voltage on the capacitor WITH could not reach the chip's turn-on level.

    After soldering resistor R33, the microcircuit trigger circuit was restored and the circuit started working. I hope this article will help you fix the charger on your MacBook Pro.

    To help you identify completely burnt-out elements, I am attaching an archive with high-resolution photographs of the board (37 photos, 122 MB).

    And people dissected exactly the same charger, only with a power of 85 W. Interesting too.


    The MacBook charger is amazing! An elegant solution is to charge using magnets. This allows you not only to prevent accidental falls of the laptop when you touch the cable, but also helps you easily connect it for recharging. But there are times when the plug-in charger does not want to fulfill its intended purpose. Let's figure out why this happens and what can be done about it.

    1. Original accessory

    No matter how strange it may sound (read), you must understand that a non-original charger can fail much faster than a branded power adapter. There may be many reasons for this, but basically it all comes down to banal low-quality components and assembly “on the knees”.
    Of course, the original charger can also fail, but the chances of this are much less.

    2. Working socket

    If everything is fine with the adapter, it is original, then it’s time to check its connection. Firstly, make sure that the cable is plugged into the connector, and secondly, trace its other end - it should be in the outlet. If everything is fine with this, you should try another socket; perhaps the cause of all the troubles lies not in the adapter, but in the socket itself, which is in the wall.

    3. Debris in the connector

    This may come as a surprise to some, but excess dirt and dust can also become clogged in the charging connector. Naturally, this may prevent your laptop from charging and/or taking a long time to charge.
    Be sure to check the connector and if you find dust in it, remove it from there. It is best to do this with a can of compressed air if the dirt is very stuck. For some, this is a completely common situation that happens quite often, especially if your lifestyle involves constant travel for business trips.

    4. Reset SMC

    Well, we checked everything and didn’t seem to find any flaws. But the laptop still refuses to charge. Let's try resetting the System Management Controller (SMC). This often helps with various unusual behaviors of your computer, such as fans not working properly, not detecting a connected charger, not charging, not working properly when going into sleep or wake mode, and many others.

    To reset the SMC you will need to follow a few simple steps:

    1. Turn off your MacBook completely.
    2. Connect the MagSafe power adapter to it.
    3. Press and hold the Shift+Control+Option+Power keys for about four seconds and then release them at the same time.
    4. Press the Power button to turn on the laptop with the controller settings reset.

    If you have an older Apple laptop, these steps may be different. In order to make sure that your actions are correct, it is best to resort to the official instructions on the Apple website.

    Please note that resetting the SMC affects all power-related settings, so if you changed any of the settings in Power Saver Settings, you will need to reset them.

    Now all that remains is to connect the charger and see how the laptop charges. If the problem persists, then most likely you should contact a service center, since the problem may be in the adapter itself (a very rare occurrence), or in the MacBook's power board (an even rarer occurrence). But often the above tips help in most cases.

    Have YOU experienced problems charging your MacBook? If yes, how were they resolved? Share your tips in the comments!

    The decision of the Apple developers is striking in its simplicity and genius, because the decision to make MagSafe, that is, a magnetic line for the charger, was risky. This is easy to use and pleasant because it saves you from awkward falls of your precious computer due to body movements. However, are there any disadvantages to this device? I would like to answer that no, but let's be honest - all MacBooks have problems from time to time and the gadget does not charge.

    Simple causes and solutions to the problem

    The first thing to check is the adapter itself. If it is not from Apple, but a fake, then most likely it is broken. It is worth remembering that original products always live longer than clones. The MacBook simply cannot charge if there is a problem with the adapter. Testing the adapter is not difficult on another device.

    Now let's check the socket. It can also fail. If it works, but sparks when interacting, this is a bad sign. Sorry if the article is “captain’s”, but often people can’t even imagine that sockets also break. Another reason why the MacBook still won’t charge is the incompatibility of the European plug with the Soviet outlet. The plug may simply not fit into the holes provided for it.

    Another reason is dust in the connector. If you often move or visit dusty places, then most likely all sorts of fine dirt often gets stuck in the connector. By removing it, you will resume the process. Of course, if the problem lies precisely in the garbage.

    EU If both the adapter and the outlet work well, but the MacBook still won’t charge, then the problem lies in the device itself. Let's consider a situation in which the MacBook itself becomes the culprit. To solve system problems (even charger detection problems), you can use the SMC - system management controller. More precisely, we need to reset its settings.

    Solutions

    First, turn off the MacBook. Now we connect the adapter. Press and hold the hotkey combination Shift+Control+Option+Power. You need to hold down the buttons for 2-5 seconds, this time, to delete the settings. Now turn on the computer. We connect the charger itself to the adapter and check it. Now, hopefully, the MacBook is charging. If all this does not help, then things are bad.

    Complex problems

    In the worst case scenario, your battery is dead. What to do? If you don’t understand anything about electronics, we advise you to take your MacBook for repair. If you yourself make the problem worse, it won’t get better, remember this. But if you practice repairs with your own hands, then further information is for you.

    The battery is not charging and a breakdown has been detected in it. If you are sure, then you need to purchase a new battery. Please check its modification carefully when purchasing. We find thin or “clockwise” screwdrivers of different types and begin.

    Turn off the MacBook and close the lid. Turn the computer over and carefully unscrew the screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Be careful, such screws are very rare, so if you damage or lose one of them, you will have to work hard to find a replacement. You should also remember which side you unscrewed this or that screw. There will be 7 main short screws and 3 long ones, which are removed from the left side, in the area of ​​​​the plastic insert.

    Without resistance, the lid of the case is removed and the “internal organs” appear before us. Pay attention to the battery. It is secured with three-bladed screws, which must be unscrewed with an appropriate screwdriver. You can disconnect the battery power with tweezers or, for example, a slotted screwdriver. But we recommend purchasing a specialized spatula for electronic devices. It is not only very convenient to use, but also will not harm the equipment.

    Now there is a scary sticker left, after removing which you can remove the battery. Having replaced the element, we proceed to reassembly. Initially, use a spatula or tweezers to connect the power. After this, screw in the three-blade screws that secure the battery. Don't forget to be careful. We install the bottom of the case in its rightful place, and carefully screw in the Phillips screws.

    That's it, the process is complete. If all processes are carried out correctly, then the MacBook charges again. If it does not charge, then you should disassemble it again and check the connection of the battery to the power cord again. If your MacBook doesn't work, it's better to take it to a workshop. It is unlikely that you, without special skills, will be able to repair such a complex device.

    Bottom line

    Apple products have a number of weak points, for example a weak “knee” on the original headphones. It is difficult to say exactly how many there are and whether they are significant, but the fact remains that it is worth striving to correct them. A company with such a reputation cares very much about its citizens, so even the smallest details are worked out to the smallest detail. However, the disadvantages that everyone talks about often go unnoticed.

    Having considered simple problems and methods of solution, we can draw only one conclusion. Look after your equipment, take care of it and it will repay you with a long and high-quality service. Forgetting about the most terrible enemy of computers, people do not attach importance to dust. And it slowly but surely gets clogged into all the recesses of the equipment, interfering with work and gradually killing the gadget. The MacBook is very delicate and requires a gentle attitude. Don't forget to keep an eye on him.

    Hardly a technology pro was surprised by the description of the process of disassembling a laptop. However, perhaps it will help someone take the first steps on the path of development, because fixing a MacBook is not the limit. It is not known why such skills will be needed in the future, but we can definitely say that they will come in handy. After all, every day all branches of science are updated and the world is moving forward very quickly. Maybe in 10 years, in the countries of the former Soviet Union, automated living spaces controlled by remote controls will flourish. Or maybe it won’t prosper. But being prepared for anything is the main and main task.

    Still, in the end, I would like to recommend acting in accordance with the guarantee. If the warranty on the poppy is active, you just need to contact a professional. He must do everything to the highest standard. But if it has expired, then you can delve into the insides and learn the technique. Please remember that the warranty does not cover your intervention inside the case. Even if you just broke a screw, no one is obliged to save the gadget. Moreover, Apple products are not cheap and experiments with them can backfire.