Wi-Fi Bridges - More details - What is a Wi-Fi bridge. Wireless WiFi Bridge

It often happens that the router’s Wi-Fi signal is not enough to cover the entire apartment or, for example, you need to connect several devices, but so that they do not work on the same network. If you suddenly have another router lying around, then you can solve the problem by simply throwing a bridge between them. In fact, for example, the issue with the signal is solved by repeaters that catch the signal and, as it were, transmit it further, but why buy them if you already have everything you need. Now we will look at how to set up a Wi-Fi bridge, using TPLink equipment as an example.

general information

First, let's try to answer the most common question on this topic: Wi-Fi bridge - what is it? Essentially, after proper configuration, one router, which is connected to the Internet, transmits a signal to the second, which is simply turned on, and the latter distributes a separate network. It’s worth noting right away that devices from the same manufacturer will work more stable when paired.

Setting up a bridge between two routers: Video

How to setup

The first thing we need to figure out in order to create a wireless Wi-Fi bridge is the address at which you can enter the settings. Go to any browser and type either 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 in the address bar - as a result, a window with lines for login and password will appear.

Now, if nothing has changed, enter admin in both lines and get to the main settings page.

Now let's dive into what you need to do on the main device. On the left you will find the “Wirelles” or “Wireless Mode” tab if you have Russified firmware. For convenience, we immediately change the name of the network and the channel - set, for example, 7, and end with the main one.

We connect to the additional one and also get into the settings. Now we are already interested in the “DHCP” tab: having entered here, we disable it, as shown in the screenshot, so that there are no two devices distributing network settings.

Now we go to the local network or LAN section and change the IP, for example, to 192.168.1.2, so that there are no two identical addresses. After clicking the “Save” or “Save” button, the router will reboot.

When the reboot is complete, you should automatically return to settings. Now, as on the first device, go to the wireless mode tab, change the name, channel, and check the WDS box at the bottom.

As a result, additional lines and a “Search” or “Survey” button should appear at the bottom - click on it. You will be transferred to the list of available networks - find the first router by name and click on the blue “Connect” inscription on the right.

The remaining lines are filled in, so don't worry about them. The only thing worth considering is that if there is a password on the main device, then you need to enter it in the appropriate field and select the encoding a little higher.

We continue to understand the operation of different routers in repeater and bridge modes. In this manual, we will take a detailed look at setting up a Tp-Link router in bridge mode (WDS). I think that you immediately need to understand the question of what WDS is on Tp-Link routers and how it differs from the “Repeater” (repeater) operating mode.

I’ll say right away that on Tp-Link routers there is no such mode as a repeater, like, for example, Asus and Zyxel (there, routers really work like). Only access points from Tp-Link can work as network repeaters. As for ordinary routers, such as: TL-WR941ND, TL-WR740N, TL-WR841N, TL-MR3220, TL-WR842ND and other models, they have the ability to configure bridge mode, also known as WDS.

What is the difference between bridge mode and repeater mode? I’ll explain it in simple language: in bridge mode, we simply connect two routers via Wi-Fi. This mode can also be used to expand the Wi-Fi network. For example, we have some kind of main router that distributes the Internet via Wi-Fi. And we need to expand this network, increase its range. We take a Tp-Link router, configure it in bridge mode according to these instructions, it receives the Internet via Wi-Fi from the main router, and distributes it further. But, unlike a repeater, you will have another wireless network, with your own name and password.

Of course, repeater (or router in repeater mode) much better suited for this purpose. It simply clones and strengthens an existing network, and in bridge mode another wireless network appears. And you will have to choose which network to connect to.

I was recently asked this question in the comments:

Good afternoon. The question arose, how to configure the tl-wr941nd router to receive Wifi, and then transmit the Internet via cable. That is, just use it as a receiver. Is it possible to somehow accomplish this?

By configuring your Tp-Link in WDS mode, it can be used as a receiver. To connect to the Internet, for example, a TV or computer that does not have a Wi-Fi receiver.

A few more points:

• You can have any main router. Of course, it’s good if both devices are Tp-Link, and even better if they are the same models. I have a main router, and I will configure the bridge on the TL-MR3220. By the way, I was unable to connect Tp-Link with the old Asus RT-N13U.
• We will also change the settings of the main router. We need to set a static channel.
• This method is ideal for wirelessly connecting two routers in bridge mode. For example, on the first floor you have a router, and on the second we install another one and connect it to the first one via Wi-Fi. There is no need to lay the cable anymore.

Setting up a bridge (WDS) on a Tp-Link router

1 First of all, we need to change the wireless network channel on the main router. Please note that the router to which we will connect in bridge mode must be configured. That is, the Internet must work, it must distribute a Wi-Fi network.

My main router is D-link DIR-615.. This means that we need to set a static channel for the wireless network in the settings on the main router. I don’t know what kind of router you have, so see the instructions. In it, I wrote about changing the channel on devices from different manufacturers.

If, for example, you also have Tp-Link as your main router, then the channel can be changed in the settings (which open at 192.168.1.1 (192.168.0.1), or see the instructions), on the tab Wireless. In field Channel specify a static channel. For example 1, or 6. Press the button Save to save settings.

The static channel has been installed. You can exit the settings of the main router.

First, we need to change the IP address of our Tp-Link. This is necessary to ensure that there are no two devices on the network with the same IP. For example, if the main IP address is 192.168.1.1, and the second one is 192.168.1.1, then there will be an address conflict. Go to the tab Network - LAN. In field IP Address replace the last digit from 1 to 2. You will get the address 192.168.1.1, or 192.168.0.1. Click the button Save. The router will reboot.

We need to know what IP address the main router we are going to connect to has. If it has 192.168.1.1, then on the router that we want to connect via WDS we change the address to 192.168.1.2. And if the main one has an address of 192.168.0.1, then set the second one to 192.168.0.2. It is important that they are on the same subnet.

Go to the settings again, only the IP address will be different - 192.168.1.2. Which we indicated above.

3 Go to the tab Wireless. In field Wireless Network Name you can specify the name of the second wireless network. And in the field Channel be sure to specify the same channel that you set in the settings of the main router. I have channel 1.

Select the desired network from the list from which the router will receive Internet. Next to the desired network, click on the link "Connect".

4 All we have left is the drop-down menu Key type select the type of security for your network (which we connect to). And in the field Password specify the password for this network. To save, click on the button Save.

Reboot your router. By turning off the power and turning it back on, or in the control panel by clicking on the link "click here".

5 After the reboot, go to the settings again. And right on the main screen (Status tab), look at the section Wireless. Against WDS Status should be written Run.

This means that our Tp-Link will already connect to the main router. And it must distribute the Internet via Wi-Fi and cable. The setup is complete.

If you need IP addresses to be issued by the main router (not the one configured in bridge mode), then on the router that we just configured, you need to disable the DHCP server. You can do this in the settings, on the tab DHCP. By installing a switch near Disable, and saving the settings.

6 Don’t forget to set a password for the Wi-Fi network that the router we configured will distribute. You can see the details. Everything is simple there. In the settings, on the tab Wireless - Wireless Security, highlight the item WPA/WPA2 - Personal(Recommended), in field Wireless Password set a password (minimum 8 characters), and click the button below Save.

Now our Tp-Link router receives the Internet from the main router and distributes it further. Choose the right location to install the second router so that it is within range of the main router.

Setting up a wireless bridge (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) on the new firmware version

I decided to update this article and add up-to-date information on setting up WDS on TP-Link routers with new firmware. Which is in blue tones. Everything is set up a little differently there. I will show you now.

If you have a router with a new control panel, then you need to go to the “Advanced settings” – “System tools” – “System settings” section. If you have a dual-band router, then you will see the option to configure bridge mode in two bands. At 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

1 Check the "Enable WDS Bridge" checkbox next to the required frequency. For example, I checked the box next to 2.4 GHz. Click on the "Search" button

2 Select the network you want to connect to from the list. Just click "Select" next to your network. I think you will easily find your network in the list of available ones.

3 If necessary, you can change the security settings (Protection, Password) and click on the “Save” button. If you set a password, then select "WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK". You can also leave the network without a password. If necessary.

The Roture will connect via Wi-Fi to another router and will receive the Internet via a wireless network.

If you need to disable the DHCP server, you can do this on the “Advanced settings” – “Network” – “DHCP server” tab.

If the Internet does not work via cable in WDS mode

If you complete the settings that I showed above, the Internet will only work via Wi-Fi, and when connected to a router (which is in WDS mode) via cable, the Internet does not work. No internet access. This, of course, is not the case, and using the router as a Wi-Fi network receiver, for example, will not work. Therefore, I wrote a question to TP-LINK support, and they answered me.

When setting up the WDS function, you receive IP addressing from the original router (the device to which the WDS client is connected) over both a wired and wireless network. To configure this function correctly, you must disable the DHCP server on the equipment on which the WDS bridge is configured. You also need its local IP address to be in the same subnet as the original router.

I checked everything on the TP-LINK TL-WR740N, and indeed, after turning off the DHCP server, the Internet immediately started working via the network cable. Disabling DHCP is not difficult at all. In the router settings, open the tab DHCP, set the switch near Disable(disable), and save the settings.

We reboot the router and everything works fine. I immediately got internet via cable. You can go to the settings of this router at the address that we set in the second step. For me it is 192.168.1.2.

If you can't set up a WDS connection

Update. There is often a situation when the router does not want to connect in bridge mode. Of course, there can be many reasons. In the comments, Eduard suggested one interesting solution - disabling WPS function on both routers. If you have problems setting up WDS mode, you can try. Moreover, few people use a WPS connection, and it is often recommended to disable this function for security reasons and to solve other problems with the wireless network.

This is not difficult to do on TP-Link routers. In the WPS (or QSS) section, you just need to disable this function.

And in the new firmware.

You need to disable it on both routers. On the main one, and on which we are trying to set up a connection in bridge mode. More information (including devices from other manufacturers) can be found in this article: .

If you have any questions, advice, or comments, write them in the comments.

So, earlier we told. However, if you need to transmit wifi over 500 meters, 1 or several kilometers - then using improvised means, you need a serious wireless network in a professional environment, called “point-to-point”.

Wi-Fi transmission over long distances: wireless network topology and highlights

There are two main type of wireless network topology:

• Point to point (PtP)
• Point to Multipoint (PtMP)

• The figure in green shows the point-to-point (PtP) connection type.
• Point-to-multipoint (PtMP) connections are indicated in blue.

We will take a closer look at setting up the PtP option and the equipment that is used in this case.

Let's look at two options for setting up a wireless connection over a long distance.

Option 1 - setting up a wireless bridge for a distance of 1 - 3 km

Option 2 - setting up a wireless bridge for a distance of 10 km or more

Why divide and not combine into a common theme? It's simple - the type, cost and interfaces of equipment differ significantly. If the distance over which you need to transmit traffic is up to 1 km, there is no point in purchasing equipment for 10 km and overpaying for it.

Before setting up a Wi-Fi bridge, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that there must be direct visibility between point “A” (where the transmitter antenna is located) and point “B” (where the receiver antenna is located)! In addition, certain requirements for the Fresnel zone must be met. What is the Fresnel zone?

Let's imagine an imaginary straight cylindrical pipe (shaded in gray in the figure), in the centers of the holes of which antenna “A” and antenna “B” are installed on both sides. The internal space of the pipe is the Fresnel zone. For a good signal and stable connection, this “pipe” should not contain any third-party objects, such as houses, trees, power lines and other structures.

The radius of the Fresnel zone (parameter R in the picture) depends on the distance between the antennas (parameter S+D in the picture) and the radio frequency at which they operate (mainly equipment in the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz ranges is used). The greater the distance, the larger the radius. The Fresnel zone is calculated using the formula:

• R – Fresnel zone radius, m
• S and D – Distance from antennas to highest point, obstacles, km
• f – Frequency, GHz

But don't be alarmed. There are a lot of Internet resources where these calculations are automated, just enter a query in any search engine - an online Fresnel zone calculator and you will be taken to a page where you only need to enter the distance between points “A” and “B”, as well as the frequency at which it operates equipment, press the calculation button and the calculator will give you the finished result.

Lots of text? Let's move on to practice.

How to transmit wifi at a distance of 1 km?

Option 1: radio bridge for 1 - 7 km.

To build the bridge we will need two of the simplest wireless access points. A good option would be TP-Link TL-WA5110G. Why is she so remarkable? The transmitter power of this access point model (hereinafter referred to as AP) is 26 dBm, which is several times higher than the power of any other AP for home use. The equipment has been discontinued, but if you can find a working used copy, feel free to buy it.

For the radio bridge we will need 2 APs. We configure one as a regular access point, and the other as a client.

Example of AP transmitter settings

• SSID We set the network name as desired, you don’t have to change the standard one
• Region. The region does not play a special role
• Channel. It is advisable to choose a channel from 6 and higher, since on “high” channels d 2.4 GHz the air is less noisy
• Power. To begin with, set the transmitter power to maximum, i.e. 26 dBm, and check the Enable High Power Mode checkbox.
• Mode. We set the mode to 54Mbps (802.11g), since the other one in the list has lower bandwidth.

Example of AP receiver settings

We switch the AP to client mode.

We register the SSID as on the first device (you can also click on the Survey button at the bottom of the page, there we will see a list of devices available for connection and click Connect).

Don't forget to set different IP addresses on both APs (Network Section)!

With standard antennas, the devices reliably connect at a distance of 1 km in line of sight.

If you replace the standard circular antenna with a directional one (see figure below), you can significantly increase the communication range.

But in this case, you will have to use an adapter (pigtail) from the N-type connector to the RP-SMA, which is installed in the AP.

With this configuration on both sides, the points will show stable operation at a distance of 7 km.

There is only one disadvantage of this option - if the air is very noisy, the antenna will pick up and amplify all the interference in the area, which will negatively affect the quality of the channel, packet loss is possible, or even communication interruptions, but you can experiment with other antennas, in which the radiation pattern has a narrower beam and fewer “side lobes”.

It is also possible to use the structure outdoors, but the TD itself must be placed in an airtight box. The pigtail can be removed through the cable entry by sealing the hole with raw rubber or frost-resistant silicone.

Summary of the set “Option 1”

The configuration is quite workable and has the right to life. The cheapness of the components (used option) allows you to give preference to it if there are no increased stability requirements for the wireless bridge and a throughput of 8-12 Mbit/s is satisfactory. A complete set of used equipment for both sides can be purchased for about $50. The use is especially justified when some components are already in stock or were received for free. With external antennas, you can use not only the TP-Link TL-WA5110G, but any access points with a removable external antenna and a suitable connector.

The downside is that it is difficult to install and configure for an untrained user. Several detachable connections, the quality of which can significantly affect the signal level.

How to transmit WiFi over 5 km. and more?

Option 2. Let’s move on to “heavy artillery”

If you need a more serious option, the next part of the article is just for you.

Ubiquiti is widely known for its products for building wireless connections. The brand also produces equipment for smart homes, CCTV cameras and much more, but the first thing that comes to mind when you hear Ubiquiti is undoubtedly Wi-Fi equipment.

We will not talk about the entire line of equipment, but will select only what we need.

Brief description of the equipment

We will build the bridge using NanoBrige M5 or NanoBeam M5 equipment.

• The NanoBrige M5 has been discontinued, but can still be found at some dealers, and there are plenty of used options available.
• NanoBeam M5 is a new development, it is similar to the previous model, but it has a completely different filling. A faster Atheros MIPS 74KC processor, more RAM, and now 64 MB of RAM on board. The gain of the external antenna has increased. The shape of the emitter has changed. The design itself has also changed for the better. Installation is even easier and faster.

Both devices are positioned by distributors as equipment for distances of 5 km, but in practice, links of 20 km or more were launched with very good stability indicators and throughput at such a distance of over 120 Mbit/s via Wi-Fi.

Below are the antennas themselves for transmitting wifi over long distances.

Let's move on to the settings

Having configured the network interface of your PC or laptop for the 192.168.1.0/24 network and connected the equipment according to the following diagram, we can begin configuration.

If your equipment is new, so to speak, “out of the box”, then after entering 192.168.1.20 in the address bar of the browser and clicking go, we should get to the authorization page, it looks like this:

Standard login/password for ubnt/ubnt login

If for some reason you do not get to the authorization page or the standard login/password does not work, most likely you have equipment that was previously configured by someone.

It can be reset to factory settings by pressing the Reset button, which is located on the emitter, near the RJ-45 connector

All basic information about the device status is displayed here.

All the settings we need are located on the WIRELESS and NETWORK tabs.

Configuring the antenna to AP mode

The picture shows important points that need to be configured.

Brief description of the highlighted items:

• Wireless Mode – Operating mode. Select which mode the device operates in
• Access Point– access point (distributing Wi-Fi)
• Station– a device that will connect to the Access Point
• SSID – Name of the wireless network. Will be displayed when searching for a network
• Channel Width – Channel width. The higher the value, the greater the throughput, but the lower the stability of the channel. If the distance is small and the Fresnel zone is clean, feel free to set it to 40 MHz
• Frequency, MHz – Operating frequency. We choose carefully, because when choosing a frequency that is occupied by another device located in the field of radio visibility, we will observe a deterioration in the quality of the signal.
• Output Power - Outgoing power. When the distance between AP and Client is 10 km or less, it is recommended to reduce the transmitter power to 19 – 20 dBm
• Security - Security. Exactly the same as in the router settings - password protection of the wireless connection. May have a slight impact on network performance, but it is recommended to enable, preferably WPA2-AES mode.

After changing all the necessary parameters, click the Change button at the bottom of the page, and then, in the line that appears at the top, the Apply button. Only in this case the settings will be changed!

Configuring the antenna in Client mode

Almost everything is the same here, only the operating mode is different.

Important point! If you check the box in the Frequency Scan List, MHz field and enter the frequency configured on the Access Point, the connection will be much faster, since the client will not go through all the channels in the range, but will scan only the frequency indicated in the scan sheet.

How to catch wifi over a long distance: setting up a network

Go to the NETWORK tab. Everything here is very clear.

What you should pay attention to on this tab is the Network Mode item. If you select Router mode from the drop-down list, you will be able to set up a DHCP server on both the wireless and wired interfaces. You can configure a PPPoE connection, forward ports, enable/disable NAT - that is, the standard functionality of a router.

Hooray! Wireless bridge configured

All that remains is to mount the antennas in their places. The antenna emitters must face each other clearly. Next, wait until the signal level scale appears on the MAIN tab. See the items AirMax Quality and AirMax Capacity, the higher their value, the better.

The Noise Floor and Transmit CCQ parameters are indicative.

Noise Floor – Shows how noisy the air is. The larger the numerical value with a minus sign, the less interference the antenna collects.

Transmit CCQ – Transmission quality. The value should approach 100%. The bigger, the better.

After adjusting the antennas, when we have achieved the best performance, we can use the network.

Various auxiliary utilities can be found in the upper right corner of the interface - this is a drop-down menu called Tools.

Using the Speed ​​Test utility located there, you can test the speed of the wireless line

Summary of the “Option 2” set

The option is undoubtedly the best. NanoBridge M5 antennas can be mounted on a pipe stand with only a 10mm wrench. Compared to Option 1, there is much greater throughput, stable communication and an noise-resistant protocol.
There is also one downside – the price. Two NanoBeam M5 APs currently cost about $180-190. The price of two used NanoBridge M5 is about 100 - 120$

Think for yourself, decide for yourself... To have or not to have….

Most Internet users are wondering how to connect one router to another using Wi-Fi in wireless bridge mode, so that one device functions as standard, and the second router distributes the Internet as a separate network. This question is interesting because using this method of connecting to the World Wide Web can significantly improve the wireless network signal. Let's look at this issue with an example.

There is only one router at home, but the network is weak and does not reach all points in the room. To enhance Wi-Fi, there are special devices called repeaters that pick up the signal from the router and distribute it further. All modern devices can work as Wi-Fi repeaters, but they must be configured correctly.

The official TP Link website has a good picture that clearly demonstrates the diagram of such a connection. How suitable it is for routers from Linksys, Asus, Tenda and D Link is unknown, but setting up a wireless bridge for TP Link routers does not raise any questions. For example, the settings for the TP Link TL MR3220 router are ideal for a model such as the TP Link TL WR841N. Moreover, it is worth noting that to strengthen the wireless network and connect one router to another via Wi Fi, it is worth using devices from the same manufacturer. That is, if you have a TP Link router, then it is more stable and will work better when connecting with its own kind.

Setting up the main router using TP Link as an example Go to the router settings and go to the Wireless tab. Opposite the “Channel” item we enter a number, for example 6 or 7. An identical number will need to be entered in the repeater settings. The entered data must be saved using the Save button.

Setting up the “Repeater” The second router must be connected to the computer via a cable. Next, open the browser and go to the settings by entering in the address bar, or. The manufacturer indicated the exact address at the bottom of the router. When the page opens, a window will appear for entering your login and password. They are standard except if someone has changed them. Enter both the password and login admin, admin. Disable WPS. In the WPS tab, select and click the Disable WPS button and reboot the router. To do this, just click on the click here link located at the bottom of the page. It will appear there after changing the settings. After rebooting the router, the page with the router settings will again appear in front of you.

Changing the IP address of the TP Link router To do this, you need to go to the Network LAN tab. It is located on the left side of the monitor screen among the list of other settings. In the IP Address field, it is recommended to replace the last number with the number 2. For example, if the initial number is , then after the changes it will look like 192.168.0.2. Save the settings with the Save button. After completing the steps, the router will automatically reboot, opening a page for you to re-enter your login and password for the settings. Entered the data, we get to the desired page. The IP address has already changed.

Step-by-step instructions for setting up a wireless bridge in a TP Link router Open the Wireless tab, in which you need to specify a new name for the wireless network next to Network Name. This will be the name "Repeater". In the Region field we enter the name of our region, and opposite Channel we change the channel number to 6 or 7, or better yet 1, so that the channels do not coincide. Attention! If there is no Internet network and the same numbers are installed on both routers, you must enter the number 1 on the repeater, or vice versa.

Launching WDS To activate the WDS mode, check the box next to Enable WDS Bridging and start searching for Wi-Fi routers. To do this, click the Survey button. A page should open with a list of wireless networks available for connection. Select the network (main router) and click the “Connect” button. You should notice that the SSID and BSSID fields are already filled in. If the main router has a Wi-Fi password, then in the Key type column you must indicate the encryption type, and in the Password field we enter the password to access the wireless network. Next, click Save and reboot the router. If all actions were performed correctly, everything should work correctly, and “Run” is written next to WDS Status.

Possible difficulties when setting up a WDS wireless bridge After setting up a wireless bridge, the WDS status may say Scan& for a long time. This means that the repeater router is not connected to the main router. How to fix this problem? First, we check whether you have correctly specified the encryption type and password for connecting to the main router. Second, open the Wireless tab and in the Channel item change the channel numbers. We are experimenting with both the main and additional routers. Third, if in the router settings there is a Wireless item, and then Wireless Bridge, then in the parameters of both routers we enter the following data: in the settings of the main router we indicate the MAC address of the secondary router, and the repeater has the address of the main device. Fourth, we check that MAC address filtering is not enabled on the main router. If even after these steps the connection to the Internet does not occur, disable DHCP. Go to settings, select DHCP, change the value to Disable. Save the changes and reboot the device. Good luck!

As you know, thanks to the World Wide Web, users are able to exchange all kinds of files at any distance, they just need to have an Internet connection at their disposal. However, such file sharing is carried out through an Internet provider, i.e., a public network. But what to do when users need to send personal data directly to each other, bypassing online intermediaries. In this situation, a local network can come to the rescue - a special closed network connection for secure data transfer. One type of local network connection is a Wi-Fi bridge.

What is a Wi-Fi bridge

A Wi-Fi bridge is a type of local network, thanks to which you can create two network points at a distance from each other, and then use them to directly combine several devices (most often desktop computers) into one group to transfer data between them. A distinctive feature of a Wi-Fi bridge is a wireless connection, while connecting to a standard local network requires laying a network cable (twisted pair) between devices, which is not always possible or practical.

The signal range depends on the power of the network equipment

Why do you need a Wi-Fi bridge?

Using a Wi-Fi bridge is relevant both at home (for example, to create a network between two neighboring apartments) and when organizing entire corporate networks (for example, combining all office PCs into one network group or setting up a direct connection between an office building and warehouse located across the road). Moreover, a Wi-Fi bridge can be used for other, more specific purposes (for example, to set up a video surveillance system by creating a network between a desktop computer and a security camera). The only limitation of a Wi-Fi bridge is its throughput range, which depends on the network equipment. The maximum distance can reach 250 km (the average signal range is about 30 km). Both regular routers and specialized routers can serve as equipment for transmitting data over such distances.

Using two Ubiquiti Nanostation M5 routers, you can create a Wi-Fi bridge with a channel speed of over 150 Mbit/s over a distance of up to 5 km in urban areas

Another important factor for creating a stable Wi-Fi bridge is the mandatory presence of a pure Fresnel zone between two points of future local network connection. The Fresnel zone is a spatial area (segment of a straight line) through which a light or sound wave passes. The more various kinds of obstacles (buildings, uneven terrain, other sources of radio interference, etc.) are in such an area, the worse the quality of the transmitted signal will be (connection breaks and a drop in data transfer speed are possible).

Even changes in weather conditions can affect the clarity of the Fresnel zone

Therefore, if you decide to connect a Wi-Fi bridge, be sure to try to ensure relative “purity” in the Fresnel zone, the level of which should be from 60 to 80% (naturally, the greater the distance between two points, the more interference there will be along the signal transmission path ).

Creating a Wi-Fi bridge within the apartment

To set up a Wi-Fi bridge within an apartment, the user does not need to buy expensive equipment in the form of special routers (all thanks to the fact that the distance between two points will be only a few meters). To do this, it is enough to have two ordinary routers, one of which will be a base station, and the second will become a client, or repeater, receiving the incoming signal.

It will be possible to connect devices to the Internet both through a basic router and through a repeater

It is also worth noting that to create a Wi-Fi bridge, it is advisable to have two routers from at least one manufacturer (or even better, the same model) for more stable operation. In addition, identical models minimize the likelihood of failure due to incompatibility of intra-system settings (or their certain differences/features).

So, to create a Wi-Fi bridge, the first thing you need to do is configure a basic router that will transmit the outgoing signal. The setup instructions will be shown using the example of two TP-Link routers (the setup algorithm for routers from other manufacturing companies is similar, with the exception of the possible location of individual parameters and settings categories):

1. Open any installed Internet browser and enter 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 in the address bar (the IP address is usually written on the back of the router), press Enter.

   If you enter an incorrect IP address, the browser will display the error “The page cannot be opened”

2. After entering the required IP address, an authorization window will appear in front of you, in which you need to enter your login and password (the factory default values ​​for both parameters are admin) and click OK.

   If you have individual login data set, you can reset it to factory defaults by pressing the Reset button on the router case

3. In the window that opens, follow the path: “Wireless mode”/“Setting up wireless mode”. Find the “Channel” line, set the value to 1 and click “Save”.

   Make sure that the checkbox next to “Enable wireless broadcasting of the router” is checked

The “Basic router” settings are now complete.

Now you need to configure the second router as a repeater that will receive the incoming signal from the base station. For this:

1. Open the router settings panel (as in the first case through an Internet browser), find the “Network” / “Local network” parameter and enter the value 192.168.0.2 in the “IP address” line. Then click "Save".

   The base router's IP address should have the standard value 192.168.0.1

2. Next, go to the “Wireless Mode” / “Wireless Mode Settings” settings and set the “Channel” parameter to “1”. After this, place a marker next to the “Enable WDS” line; an additional block with data will appear below, where you need to click on the “Search” button.

   The search takes on average a few seconds

3. At the end of the search process, a complete list of connections available for connection will be displayed; select the very first one by clicking “Connect”. Save your settings.

   The connection is made to the base router, which will always be first in the list

In order for the settings to finally take effect, you need to reboot both routers (just turn them off and on).

I conducted two tests of a Wi-Fi bridge at home, working through two of the most common routers from TP-Link and Xiaomi. The first bridge was configured for a stationary PC (router model TP-LINK Archer C5) and a laptop (router model TP-LINK TL-WR841N), located in the same apartment building, but in different apartments (on the same floor). The second bridge was created by connecting a wireless local network for two stationary PCs (one computer was connected to the TP-LINK Archer C5 router, the second to Xiaomi Mi Wi-Fi 3), located in different houses (the distance between them is ~ 100–150 meters). In both cases, there was a sufficient amount of various types of interference in the Fresnel zone (in particular, concrete and brick walls, as well as sources of additional radio interference), but in the first test the distance between two network points turned out to be approximately half as much. Based on the results of the tests, we can say the following: firstly, the power of the transmitted signal in the first test was better (data transfer speed over the local network is on average 10–15 MB/sec higher); secondly, the signal in the first test turned out to be noticeably more stable (in the second case there were periodic connection breaks); thirdly, the speed of the Internet connection in the second test dropped almost twice (and at the same time the ping increased). From all this we can conclude that to connect a Wi-Fi bridge at a distance exceeding 100 meters, it is advisable to use specialized network equipment.

Features of creating a Wi-Fi bridge over long distances

If you can still use conventional equipment (simple router models) to create a Wi-Fi bridge within an apartment, then if you need to work over long distances, you will need specialized routers. The main distinguishing feature of such routers is the power level of the signal they transmit. If we talk about companies that produce such equipment, then it is worth highlighting three representatives: the Latvian MikroTik, the American companies LigoWave and Ubiquiti Networks (UBNT), which is considered the flagship in the development of specialized network equipment. Let's give several models of routers as an example, dividing them into categories according to signal range (the cost of equipment is relevant at the beginning of November 2018).

Signal range up to 10 km (equipment cost 3–32 thousand rubles)

The optimal models for different price categories can be considered:

• budget option - MikroTik SXTsq Lite5 (signal range - up to 3 km, data transfer speed - 70 MB/sec, signal output power - 25 dBm), cost - 3,937 rubles;

  MikroTik SXTsq Lite5 router operates at 5 GHz

• average price level - LigoWave LigoDLB 5–15ac (signal range - up to 7 km; data transfer speed - 450 MB/sec; signal output power - 30 dBm), cost - 6,166 rubles;

  The MikroTik SXTsq Lite5 router does not have a built-in firewall (Firewall)

• high-speed equipment - LigoWave LigoPTP RapidFire 5–23 (signal range - up to 3 km; data transfer speed - 500 MB/sec; signal output power - 31 dBm), cost - 31,345 rubles.

  LigoWave LigoPTP RapidFire 5–23 router is used for networks with high data transfer rates, for example, at providers

Signal range up to 25 km (equipment cost 3.5–33 thousand rubles)

Some examples of equipment from the presented segment:

Signal range up to 40 km (equipment cost 4.5–22 thousand rubles)

Common models are:

• budget option - Ubiquiti AirGrid M2 HP 2G20 (signal range - up to 30 km; data transfer speed - 70 MB/sec; signal output power - 28 dBm), cost - 4,840 rubles;

  The AirGrid M2 HP 2G20 access point comes with all the necessary mounting hardware for installation

• average price level: Ubiquiti PowerBeam 5AC-400 (signal range - up to 35 km; data transfer speed - 200 MB/sec; signal output power - 25 dBm), cost - 7,661 rubles;

  Ubiquiti PowerBeam 5AC-400 router has improved noise immunity

• high-speed equipment - LigoWave DLB MACH 5 (signal range - up to 30 km; data transfer speed - 100 MB/sec; signal output power - 29 dBm), cost - 22,237 rubles.

  The router body is made of die-cast aluminum, which ensures durability when used in direct sunlight and harsh weather conditions

Signal range up to 100 km (equipment cost 7–72 thousand rubles)

The best representatives of routers of this class can be considered the following:

• budget option - LigoWave LigoDLB ECHO 5D (signal range - up to 60 km; data transfer speed - 70 MB/sec; signal output power - 29 dBm), cost - 7,149 rubles;

  The software part (internal OS) of LigoDLB ECHO 5D is based on Linux

• average price level - Ubiquiti PowerBeam M5–620 (signal range - up to 60 km; data transfer speed - 450 MB/sec; signal output power - 24 dBm), cost - 13,435 rubles;

  The router OS has a built-in AirView utility designed for spectral analysis of air frequencies

• high-speed equipment - Ubiquiti airFiber 5U (signal range - up to 100 km; data transfer speed - 100 GB/sec; signal output power - 27 dBm), cost - 71,606 rubles.

  Thanks to dual independent 2x2 MIMO 5GHz antennas with enhanced reflector, Ubiquiti airFiber 5U can operate in Half Duplex mode without loss of speed

There are router models with a range of up to 250 kilometers, but there is quite a bit of such equipment on the market. In addition, the internal system power of such devices is often not capable of ensuring stable operation of the local network over such distances.

Setting up a Wi-Fi bridge on Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 routers

Let's look at an example of creating a Wi-Fi bridge using the Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 routers as an example. These devices are among the most affordable and in demand on the network equipment market. The Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 is capable of transmitting a stable radio signal over a distance of up to 7 km at a speed of 100 MB/sec, and its output power is 27 dBm. On the developer’s official website, the router costs 6,350 rubles.

Typical applications for the Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 are video surveillance systems, teleconferencing, and support for telemetry equipment.

Setting up a Wi-Fi bridge using such equipment is practically no different from setting up conventional routers within an apartment:

1. Connect the Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 to the modem, open any Internet browser, enter the IP address 192.168.1.20 and press Enter.
2. Fill in the data in the authorization window that appears (username/password ubnt/ubnt), click on the Login button.

   Settings are available in different languages, but Russian is not available

3. In the station settings window that opens, go to the WIRELESS tab, where you set the following parameters:
   
4. Then go to the NETWORK tab and set the Network Mode parameter to Bridge, save and close the settings window.

   To save the settings, click the Change button

Now you need to configure the second network point (the second Ubiquiti NanoStation M5 router) as a signal receiver:

After completing all settings, you must reboot all equipment.

A Wi-Fi bridge is not so much a type of one of the methods of connecting a local network, but rather a rather convenient alternative to a wired Internet connection. Thanks to this bridge, the user can combine several devices located from each other at a distance of up to 250 km into one network group. To create a Wi-Fi bridge, you only need to have specialized network equipment. The most widely known equipment manufacturer is Ubiquiti Networks.