Recommendations for choosing wheels for a car. How to choose wheels

Sometimes some novice car owners are faced with the need to replace one or more disks, and this task turns out to be more difficult than it looks from the outside. And no wonder: 4*108, 6J, ET47, Dia 63.3, R15 - what is all this?! Let's figure it out together.

1. What needs to be done?

Choose the right wheels for your existing car, simultaneously understanding all the necessary parameters.

2. What disk parameters need to be taken into account when purchasing?

Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels you need to consider the following parameters:

  • disk type;
  • mounting (or landing) diameter;
  • number and diameter of mounting holes (PCD);
  • disk width;
  • disc ejection (ET);
  • diameter of the central (hub) hole;
  • shape of mounting holes;
  • presence of humps.

Let’s make a reservation right away: if at this point you have lost the desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing wheels, just use the car selection service in large online stores. There you can simply indicate the model of your car and get wheels that are guaranteed to suit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get started.

3. Disk type - what are they?

Based on the type of manufacturing, all discs are generally divided into three types: stamped, cast and forged. The question of choosing a specific type is a topic for a separate article, but here we will present the main differences.

Stamped discs– the cheapest: these are the same wheels that you see on the basic trim levels of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break when hit, but become wrinkled, and can be easily repaired later. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.

Alloy wheels compete with stamped ones in popularity. Such discs are made not of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to manufacturing technology, cast wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, combined with a lighter weight than “stamps,” makes them popular. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, we can mention a higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not wrinkle when subjected to a strong impact, but crack. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.

Forged wheels- the highest quality and most expensive option. They are manufactured using the hot die forging method, which provides the best internal metal structure and, accordingly, the highest strength at the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner the choice is between inexpensive, but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

4. Mounting (landing) diameter

This is a very obvious parameter: the diameter of the disc circumference in inches. As a rule, it is designated by the letter R: that is, the R 17 wheel has a diameter of 17 inches.

Let us especially note: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and comes from the tire parameters, where it is also mistakenly used to mean “radius”, in reality implying the seat diameter of the tire. In the case of a tire, R is a marking of the radial cord structure, but for a disk this marking is actually not relevant. However, the erroneous “radius” in the meaning of “diameter” and the accompanying R are so ingrained in speech that most sellers and disk selection services use it by default.

The permissible rim diameters for your vehicle are indicated in the owner's manuals and on stickers in doorways - along with the recommended tire pressure. When buying tires, it is worth remembering that their seat diameter must match the diameter of the rims.

It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: discs that are too large, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the suspension operating parameters, affecting wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort it promises to travel on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch more, as a rule, occur without significant consequences.

5. Number and diameter of mounting holes (PCD)

This is the so-called “bolt pattern”: the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, “Pitch Circle Diameter”). The number of mounting bolts can vary and increases with the weight and speed of the vehicle: usually there are 4-6, but it can be more or less (minimum 3). Most VAZ cars have a 4x98 bolt pattern, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).

The disc bolt pattern must be observed: despite the fact that some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, this is not the case. A seemingly insignificant 2 millimeter difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four fastenings will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to run out. The problem can be partly solved by using bolts with a “floating cone” (more on them below), but in general, the use of disks with inappropriate bolt pattern parameters should be avoided.

6. Disc width

This parameter is as simple as the diameter: it is the width of the rim in inches. Usually in the list of parameters it is designated by the letter J: for example, 5.5J is a disk five and a half inches wide.

The width of the disk is usually indicated in the same places as the permissible mounting diameter, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for the car, the width of the rim is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed for use with a rim of a certain width, but with a certain permissible error.

7. Disc offset

Disk offset is the distance from the mating plane of the disk to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disk. Let's put it simply: the central axis of symmetry is a line dividing the disk in half along the width described above, and the mating plane is the point where the disk comes into contact with the hub and is screwed to it.

The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the mating plane, then it is positive . In other words, the greater the offset, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.

Reach is a fairly important parameter: it also directly affects the performance of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect offset not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear of the undercarriage and bearings.

8. Diameter of the central (hub) hole

The diameter of the central hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. In the list of disk characteristics, it is usually designated as "Dia", "DIA" or "D". This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disk is smaller than required, the disk simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, then centering rings will be required to center the disk on the hub.

Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disc with a center hole that is too large will center itself on the hub by tightening the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, runout and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disk and the hub and the presence, if necessary, of centering rings.

9. Shape of mounting holes

The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will secure the drive. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly conical shape of the plane adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter in length.

The latter is due to the minimum thickness of the stamped disk. A cast disk is noticeably thicker than a stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of different fasteners. In addition to the conical seat, the mounting hole of some disks can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.

And one more thing: there are bolts with a so-called “floating cone”: they allow you to partially compensate for a slight discrepancy between the PCD disk and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring placed on the bolt and moves relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.

10. Presence of humps

Humps- These are protrusions on the outer surface of the rim that secure the tubeless tire to the rim. Remember the popping noise that is heard when a tire shop inflates a tire after installing it on a rim? This is the moment of “landing” of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the edge of the rim. In fact, this indicator is listed last in our material, because at present it is practically not relevant: almost all modern wheels are designed to accommodate tubeless tires and have humps.

However, if, for example, you decide to purchase retro wheels of considerable age, keep in mind that they may well be designed to install exclusively tube tires without having humps. However, you can install tubeless tires on them, but the question of its tight fit, as well as safety when driving, will remain open: if there is insufficient pressure in the tire, the risk of “taking off your shoes” in a turn will be very high.

From the post-war years until the early nineties, owners of domestic cars did not have a headache at all about which wheel to use on their car. There was a Moskvich one with five “holes”, a Zaporozhye one with a huge central hole, with four, and a large (as much as 14-inch) Volgovsky one. There was also a huge 16-inch Niva disc with five holes, but, oddly enough, it was replaced by some amateurs with the Volgov one. Now the variety of wheel rims is such that sometimes you can’t do without a catalog or the all-knowing Internet.

But let’s consider everything in order: what characteristics can you “play with” a little when choosing and what requirements must be met without fail.

First about the center

Typically, a story about rims begins with diameter, width and appearance. Although, when choosing a disk, first of all you need to assess whether it can be screwed to the car.

The most important parameters are the following:

  • number of holes for studs or bolts;
  • the diameter of the circle on which these holes are located;
  • diameter of the central hole in the disk (DIA);
  • disc ejection.

Now let's look at these parameters in more detail. Let us immediately note that the first two must strictly coincide with those recommended by the manufacturer.

The central hole in diameter can be equal to the original one or be slightly larger. In such cases, sellers usually offer special rings that compensate for the difference in diameters.

The international designation ET is from the German word Einpresstiefe. The smaller the offset, the larger the car's track. The wheel protrudes from the wheel arch of the car. There are wheels with negative offset.

Reach is one of the most important indicators of a wheel that affects the stability and controllability of a car. With a reduced offset, on “widely” spaced wheels, the force on the steering wheel, as well as the load on the hub bearings, increases significantly. A wheel with an increased offset is shifted deeper into the wheel arch and can, when turning or large suspension strokes, touch vehicle elements, which will lead to damage. When selecting, it is not recommended to deviate from the standard offset value by more than 3–5 mm in one direction or another.

Diameter and width

Rim diameter is usually specified in inches. It must match the tire diameter.

The width of the rim is the distance between its edges. Usually it is also indicated in inches, although manufacturers give the tire width in millimeters. The current trend is to increase the width of wheel rims and, accordingly, tires.

People like to tune these two parameters (diameter and width). Most often, they strive by all means to increase the seat diameter and width of the disk. At the same time, the tire, in order to fit in the wheel arch, becomes low-profile, which warms the soul of many. But at the same time, we should not forget about GOST for the depth of potholes on our roads - there is such a document! A hole up to 5 cm deep and with a sharp edge has a right to exist. And no one will be punished if you damage your car in it. Now imagine what will happen to low-profile tires in such a pit, even a “GOST” one. For example, with standard rims on Hyundai cars with a diameter of 15 and 16 inches, owners manage to install... 18-inch ones on Solaris! For example, with a tire measuring 215/35 R18, this solution provides only 75 mm of clearance between the tire seating surface and the road. Such a tire will most likely suffer (the bead may be punctured) even in a “permitted” hole.

However, there is an alternative approach. The point is to try to install discs of the minimum size, just so that they do not cling to the brake mechanisms, and “catch up” with the diameter of a high-profile one. Among the advantages of this method, we should note the softness of the ride and the lower price of small-diameter tires. For example, the design of the Hyundai Solaris chassis (and the Kia Rio platform) allows the use of 14-inch wheels. And with a tire measuring 195/70 R14, you get quite normal wheels - a little higher (less than 3%) than the original ones, measuring 185/65 R15. But the softness of the ride becomes like that of a Renault Logan.


It should be noted that the same options for using discs of different diameters are also implemented on crossovers. For example, on the previous generation Nissan X-Trail you can install 16-inch wheels, which is clearly evidenced by the re-rolling of this diameter. And the car came off the assembly line with 17- and then 18-inch wheels. Although there are known cases of using wheels up to 20 inches. Here, too, the only question is what do you want to get: a car that gravitates towards an SUV or a tough “sports barn”. The main thing is to know moderation in everything, because the engine and gearbox are not changed.

What has VAZ changed?

Now let's talk about how VAZ betrayed its size. Even on the progenitor, the FIAT-124 car, the diameter of the circle on which the holes for the bolts were located was equal to 98 mm. And since then, this size has been strictly observed on all VAZ cars, except Niva and Oka.

By the way, Italians are also faithful to traditions. For example, on the FIAT Albea, which was officially sold in Russia, it was possible to attach a wheel from a VAZ.

At the same time, the landing diameter gradually increased over the years and changes in models from 13 to 14 inches. But the latest Grants, Kalinas and Priors still use the 4x98 size.

But with the arrival of the French B0 platform, cars with a “round” size of 4x100 rolled off the assembly line of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant. These are Largus and XRAY. Vesta can be added to this list. This is how VAZ changed its historical size. Cheated with “French women”...

Interchangeability

From the story above it follows that on a long journey, if there is an urgent need, the owner of a Grant, Kalina or Priora may ask to borrow (sell) the spare tire from the owner. And, accordingly, vice versa. If the tire size does not match, the wheel can be attached at least to the rear axle, hobbling to the tire shop.

The next, perhaps the largest in the world, is the 4x100 club. Small and rather old cars from VW, Opel, as well as Daewoo and Chevrolet had this size. The same size is used on the popular Hyundai Solaris/Kia Rio. Well, let me remind you that all Logans of the first and second generations, and after them the latest VAZ developments, also have a size of 4x100. Disc offsets may vary slightly, but almost all fall within the 40-52mm range. For example, on a long trip along fairly rough roads in a Chevrolet Aveo, I once preferred to go on wheels from the third Golf, which had previously been on a SEAT Cordoba. 14 inches versus 15, with the same outer tire diameter. I didn’t bring the hernia!

In the world there is a very wide variety of designs for attaching the wheel rim to the hub. The number of holes on a passenger car can be from 3 to 6. Current trends are to increase the number of wheel mounting bolts or nuts to five, even on small passenger cars. For example, on the VW Polo, in addition to the fact that five bolts are used, the thread also has the following characteristics: M14x1.5. This, by the way, is the size of the bolt threads of much more massive Mercedes sedans and crossovers. On the other hand, four bolts with modest parameters M12x1.25 on a rather massive Citroen C4 car somehow make you tense up when a tire fitter with a powerful impact wrench approaches the car. I wouldn't have torn off the thread - there have been cases...

On a long journey

In principle, if you have a spare tire or at least when traveling close to your place of residence, you don’t have to worry about the interchangeability of wheel rims. But I can advise you to figure out before a long journey which wheels from which common cars might fit yours. Will it come in handy?

PCD

Automobile

Notes

4x100

Hyundai Getz, Hyundai Solaris, Kia Rio, ZAZ Chance/Chevrolet Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Lada Largus, Lada Vesta, Lada XRAY, Nissan Almera, Renault Logan

VAZ cars from the era of cooperation with the Renault-Nissan alliance can be fitted with wheels from many models built: Nissan Almera, Renault Logan or Sandero, as well as their modifications. The rims of new VAZs are completely interchangeable with Logan-type ones. From Vesta to Solaris you can, but vice versa - no. Center hole (DIA): 60.1 and 54.1 mm respectively.

5x100

Volkswagen Polo, Skoda Rapid, Skoda Fabia

Absolutely interchangeable

5x114.3

Hyundai i30, Hyundai Elantra, Hyundai ix35, Kia cee’d, Kia Cerato, Kia Sportage, Suzuki SX4 classic, Suzuki SX4 new, Renault Duster, Nissan Terrano, Nissan Qashqai, Nissan X-Trail

For Renault and Nissan cars, the central disc hole is 66.1 mm, for Hyundai and Kia - 67.1 mm, Suzuki - 60.1. The larger disc hole can be put on the hub, the smaller one cannot!

4x108

Citroen C4, Peugeot 308, Peugeot Partner, Citroen Berlingo, Ford Focus I, Moskvich M-2141

Most modern Peugeot and Citroen passenger cars have a unified bolt pattern. Our M-2141 has the same one. The only pity is that the diameter of the central hole in Moskvich is larger.

4x98

VAZ 2101–21099, VAZ 2110–2112, VAZ 2113–2115 VAZ-1117-1119 Kalina, VAZ-2170 Priora, Izh-2126 Oda

In case of urgent need, a wheel from a classic Zhiguli (the diameter of the central hole is 60 mm) can be used on later AVTOVAZ products (DIA - 58.0), which were released before the merger with the Renault-Nissan alliance.

5x139.7

UAZ 31512, Hunter, Patriot, Chevrolet Niva, VAZ-21213, 21214 Niva

The wheels of Lada 4x4 and Chevrolet Niva are actually interchangeable. Theoretically, these cars can be temporarily equipped with a UAZ wheel if there are no other options. On the contrary, it won't work. The central hole in the UAZ has a diameter of 108 mm, and in Tolyatti all-wheel drive vehicles it is 98.5 mm.

Colleagues, please tell us if you had to use any non-standard options for replacing wheel rims.

Sometimes some novice car owners are faced with the need to replace one or more disks, and this task turns out to be more difficult than it looks from the outside. And no wonder: 4*108, 6J, ET47, Dia 63.3, R15 - what is all this?! Let's figure it out together.

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO BEFORE BUYING DISCS?

Choose the right wheels for your existing car, simultaneously understanding all the necessary parameters.

2. WHAT DISK PARAMETERS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN PURCHASING?

Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels you need to consider the following parameters:

  • disk type;
  • mounting (or landing) diameter;
  • number and diameter of mounting holes (PCD);
  • disk width;
  • disc ejection (ET);
  • diameter of the central (hub) hole;
  • shape of mounting holes;
  • presence of humps.

Let’s make a reservation right away: if at this point you have lost the desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing wheels, just use the car selection service in large online stores. There you can simply indicate the model of your car and get wheels that are guaranteed to suit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get started.

DISC TYPE – WHAT ARE THEY?

Based on the type of manufacturing, all discs are generally divided into three types: stamped, cast and forged. The question of choosing a specific type is a topic for a separate article, but here we will present the main differences.

Stamped wheels are the cheapest: these are the same wheels that you see on the basic trim levels of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break when hit, but become wrinkled, and can be easily repaired later. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.

Alloy wheels compete with stamped wheels in popularity. Such discs are made not of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to manufacturing technology, cast wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, combined with a lighter weight than “stamps,” makes them popular. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, we can mention a higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not wrinkle when subjected to a strong impact, but crack. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.

Forged wheels are the highest quality and most expensive option. They are manufactured using the hot die forging method, which provides the best internal metal structure and, accordingly, the highest strength at the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner the choice is between inexpensive, but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

MOUNTING (FITTING) DIAMETER

This is a very obvious parameter: the diameter of the disc circumference in inches. As a rule, it is designated by the letter R: that is, the R17 disk has a diameter of 17 inches.

Let us especially note: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and comes from the tire parameters, where it is also mistakenly used to mean “radius”, in reality implying the seat diameter of the tire. In the case of a tire, R is a marking of the radial cord structure, but for a disk this marking is actually not relevant. However, the erroneous “radius” in the meaning of “diameter” and the accompanying R are so ingrained in speech that most sellers and disk selection services use it by default.

The permissible rim diameters for your vehicle are indicated in the owner's manuals and on stickers in doorways - along with the recommended tire pressure. When buying tires, it is worth remembering that their seat diameter must match the diameter of the rims.

It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: discs that are too large, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the suspension operating parameters, affecting wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort it promises to travel on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch more, as a rule, occur without significant consequences.

NUMBER AND DIAMETER OF MOUNTING HOLES (PCD)

This is the so-called “bolt pattern”: the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, “Pitch Circle Diameter”). The number of mounting bolts can vary and increases with the weight and speed of the vehicle: usually there are 4-6, but it can be more or less (minimum 3). Most VAZ cars have a 4x98 bolt pattern, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).

The disc bolt pattern must be observed: despite the fact that some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, this is not the case. A seemingly insignificant 2 millimeter difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four fastenings will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to run out. The problem can be partly solved by using bolts with a “floating cone” (more on them below), but in general, the use of disks with inappropriate bolt pattern parameters should be avoided.

DISC WIDTH

This parameter is as simple as the diameter: it is the width of the rim in inches. Usually in the list of parameters it is designated by the letter J: for example, 5.5J is a disk five and a half inches wide.

The width of the disk is usually indicated in the same places as the permissible mounting diameter, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for the car, the width of the rim is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed for use with a rim of a certain width, but with a certain permissible error.

DISC OUTPUT

Disk offset is the distance from the mating plane of the disk to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disk. Let's put it simply: the central axis of symmetry is a line dividing the disk in half along the width described above, and the mating plane is the point where the disk comes into contact with the hub and is screwed to it.

The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the mating plane, then it is positive . In other words, the greater the offset, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.

Reach is a fairly important parameter: it also directly affects the performance of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect offset not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear of the undercarriage and bearings.

DIAMETER OF THE CENTRAL (HUB) HOLE

The diameter of the central hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. In the list of disc characteristics, it is usually designated as "Dia", "DIA" or "D". This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disk is smaller than required, the disk simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, then centering rings will be required to center the disk on the hub.

Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disc with a center hole that is too large will center itself on the hub by tightening the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, runout and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disk and the hub and the presence, if necessary, of centering rings.

SHAPE OF MOUNTING HOLES

The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will secure the drive. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly conical shape of the plane adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter in length.

How to legalize tuning an SUV?

The latter is due to the minimum thickness of the stamped disk. A cast disk is noticeably thicker than a stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of different fasteners. In addition to the conical seat, the mounting hole of some disks can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.

And one more thing: there are bolts with a so-called “floating cone”: they allow you to partially compensate for a slight discrepancy between the PCD disk and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring placed on the bolt and moves relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.

AVAILABILITY OF HAMPS

Humps are protrusions on the outer surface of the rim that secure the tubeless tire to the rim. Remember the popping noise that is heard when a tire shop inflates a tire after installing it on a rim? This is the moment of “landing” of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the edge of the rim. In fact, this indicator is listed last in our material, because at present it is practically not relevant: almost all modern wheels are designed to accommodate tubeless tires and have humps.

However, if, for example, you decide to purchase retro wheels of considerable age, keep in mind that they may well be designed to install exclusively tube tires without having humps. However, you can install tubeless tires on them, but the question of its tight fit, as well as safety when driving, will remain open: if there is insufficient pressure in the tire, the risk of “taking off your shoes” in a turn will be very high.

→ How to choose wheels for a car?2011-08-25

The auto disc is the central part of the wheel, thanks to which it “sits” on the hub. Modern manufacturers offer a huge range of these products. How to choose wheels for a car Right? Let's try to understand this issue below.

One of the most important indicators that you need to focus on when choosing disks is the material from which they are made. The technologies used to produce the wheels also play an important role.

They were the very first to appear on the market. Their name accurately reflects the technology by which they are produced. This is exactly what happens: they take a sheet of steel, place it under a special press, and stamp a disk, much like coins are minted.

Stamped wheels for cars have the following advantages:

  • High reliability. The steel from which these discs are made is not a brittle material. If the wheel gets “injured”, it will become deformed, but its integrity will most likely not be compromised. Most often it can be easily fixed in a workshop.
  • Low cost. The production technology is quite simple, so such wheels are inexpensive.

Stamped wheels, as a more reliable and cheaper option, are often installed as part of the factory equipment of various cars.

If you are thinking about which disks are better to choose, then you should know about the main disadvantages of stamping:

  • Stamped steel wheels are heavy. This does not have the best effect on the dynamic performance of the wheel and braking.
  • High susceptibility to corrosion. Steel wheels begin to rust relatively quickly, losing both their attractive appearance and strength qualities.
  • In terms of design, stamping is inferior to all other types of wheels. Technology does not allow experimenting with forms.

Over the last couple of decades they have gained high popularity. They are usually made from light aluminum alloys. Manufacturers sometimes use magnesium alloys, but the latter have significant drawbacks and therefore are not widely used.

The undeniable advantages of alloy wheels:

  • Small mass. Thanks to this, dynamic characteristics are improved and the load on the braking system is reduced.
  • Large range of designs. The manufacturer's imagination is limited only by the need to give the wheels appropriate strength characteristics.
  • Good balance. Typically, the need for balancing during installation of these wheels is minimal. High-quality casting molds allow you to achieve high geometric accuracy.

Before how to choose alloy wheels, it is worth considering their disadvantages:

  • High fragility. During impacts, dents almost never form on cast wheels. “Injuries” threaten with chips and cracks. And sometimes the disk can completely break into pieces. In most cases, after this the wheels cannot be repaired. Modern manufacturers are trying to cope with this problem by using modern technologies.
  • High price. It often depends on the complexity of the wheel design. Prices for luxury tuning models can be quite prohibitive.

Which alloy wheels are best to buy?? This question is quite rhetorical. Recently, many manufacturers have appeared on the market. There are good brands of Western and Asian origin.

Forged wheels have advantages over cast and stamped ones:

  • Thanks to special production technologies, the metal that makes up the wheel has a layered structure. This increases its strength. The forged wheel is even stronger than the suspension.
  • Modern forging technology allows you to experiment with design. In this regard, forged wheels are not inferior to cast ones.

The biggest disadvantage of forging is its price. Typically, such discs are so expensive that they are not worth purchasing even for the added strength.

In order to reduce the cost, modern manufacturers offer discs that use a combination of different technologies in their manufacture. For example, the central part is cast, and the rim is made using a rolling process reminiscent of forging.

How to choose alloy wheels for a car?

If we look at the operating instructions for any car, we will see that the manufacturer has indicated the appropriate wheel sizes in it. These numbers are the first thing you need to focus on when choosing rims.

If you are thinking about what wheels to choose for a car, then you should focus on the following indicators:

  • Diameter and radius. The radius is measured in inches and is designated by the letter R. For example, R17 is the radius of a 17-inch disk.
  • Rim width. This is an indicator that must be combined with the corresponding tire section width. If the driver chooses a disc with a wider rim, then there is a possibility that it will hit the brake disc.
  • Drilling (bolt pattern) is the radius of an imaginary circle drawn through the centers of the mounting holes. Usually the second number is indicated next to it - the number of mounting holes.
  • Departure. An indicator characterizing the displacement of the central part of the disk relative to the plane that divides it in half lengthwise. The offset can be zero, positive or negative. It directly affects the width of the wheelbase.
  • The bore diameter is the diameter of the hole through which the disc fits onto the hub. In no case should it be smaller - this will not allow mounting the disk. If the hole is larger, then the gap can be corrected using spacer rings. But there is danger here too. If the wheel parameters do not correspond to the original ones, and it is installed together with spacer rings, this usually gives the dealer the right to refuse warranty service for the car.

All the listed parameters for the car are fully consistent original wheels. For your car, the original wheels will be those that come as standard and the sizes of which are indicated in the operating instructions. If you decide to change any sizes of wheels and tires, then you should definitely consult with specialists.

Is it worth buying Replica discs?

If you are planning to change rims, then you have two options:

  • Choose a model from any of the brands on the market, first making sure that the dimensions of the wheel you choose correspond to the standard ones.
  • Buy "Replica" wheels- exact copies of wheels from the factory.

“Replica” discs are not the name of the brand or manufacturer. They are produced by different companies around the world. The main factories are located in Italy, Turkey, China. They have one thing in common - exact compliance of all parameters with the original ones. These are the same original wheels with the same standard sizes, the same design and even with the automaker’s logo in the center. The problem is that the origin of such wheels is not always clear, and this gives rise to doubts about the level of quality. The only way to buy disks that will have all the necessary characteristics is to contact a reliable seller. For example, our website presents “Replica” discs, the quality of which we are completely confident in.

How to choose wheels for an SUV?

If you are interested in the question of how to choose wheels for a crossover, then everything here is almost the same as with cars. But the specifics of the machine should also be taken into account:

  • Alloy wheels are suitable for driving on city asphalt.
  • If you often have to conquer off-road spaces and travel along uneven dirt roads, especially when the vehicle is heavily loaded, then it is better to give preference to stamping.

Which wheels to choose for a car for summer and winter?

In most regions of Russia, climate changes throughout the year are quite significant. Therefore, it is recommended to have two sets of tires and wheels: for summer and for winter.

If you like stylish alloy wheels, then you can buy them for the summer. In winter, it is worth installing stamped wheels on your car. Reliability comes first. And alloy wheels can crack during a strong impact.


Alloy wheels are one of the most popular types of light-alloy car wheels among both motorists and manufacturers. Such wheels are not only reliable in operation, but also have an original appearance, which adds individuality to any vehicle.

1. Disk settings


Before purchasing alloy wheels for your car, you should find out and understand their parameters so that the selected model exactly matches the make of the vehicle.

The following are distinguished: parameters of alloy wheels:

Disc rim width or seat width (inches)– is determined by the distance between the inner sides of the side edges of the cast disk. It is important that the seat width matches the width of the tire, otherwise it will affect the driving characteristics of the vehicle and can even lead to tragic consequences.

Wheel rim diameter or mounting diameter (inches)– is determined by the diameter of the annular part of the rim, but does not take into account the height of its edges. This indicator should be comparable to the inner diameter of the tire.

Diameter of mounting holes (PCD), mm– the parameter is determined depending on the number of mounting holes and the distance between them. To calculate this indicator, it is necessary to multiply the distance between the holes by a coefficient corresponding to their number (for 3 holes use a coefficient of 1.155, for 4 - 1.414, for 5 - 1.701). Under no circumstances should you install disks with a PCD value that differs from the normal value for each car brand, since the fastening bolts will be tightened skewed, which will prevent proper centralization.

Central hole diameter (DIA), mm– a parameter that determines the degree of compliance of the alloy wheel with the car. This diameter should be equal to the diameter of the landing cylinder located on the vehicle hub. Their exact alignment will ensure perfect wheel alignment. Often manufacturers, trying to make discs as universal as possible, produce a product with a specially large central hole diameter. In this case, special adapter rings are used for alignment.

Disc offset (ET - Germany, DEPORT - France or OFFSET - other countries), mm– is determined by the distance between the disk mounting plane (mount) and the rim symmetry plane (an imaginary line dividing the rim exactly in the center). This parameter may not be included in the disc labeling, as it is not mandatory. But the disc offset must comply with the instructions for the car, because the load on the suspension and turning mechanism depends on it.

Number of humps– this is the number of protrusions on the rim of the disk where the tire lands. They are designed to securely secure the tire beads while driving.

X-factor, mm– conditional parameter, which is determined by the distance between the disk mounting plane and the surface of its internal part. The presence of such space makes it possible to install the disc on a car in which the brake system protrudes beyond the mounting plane.

The parameters of alloy wheels can be found out by looking at their markings. Let's look at an example of markings applied to a cast wheel: 7½ J x 17 H2 3x120 ET30 d51.7, where 7½ is the seat width of the wheel rim; J – denotes the profile of the rim flanges (in addition to this option, JJ, JK, K, B, D, P are often found in rims for passenger cars); 17 – disk mounting diameter; H2 – indicates the presence of humps on the rim of the disc and their number. 3x120 is the number of holes for fasteners and their location diameter (PCD). ET30 – disc ejection. d51.7 – diameter of the central hole of the disk (DIA).

2. Advantages and disadvantages of alloy wheels


Like any other product, alloy wheels have their advantages and disadvantages. Among benefits alloy wheels:

The weight of alloy wheels is approximately 15-20% less than the steel version, which helps reduce pressure on the vehicle's chassis system, add smoother driving, reduce shock loads on the suspension and improve performance.

Excellent thermal conductivity of the discs, which eliminates overheating of the car's brake system.

Thanks to the coating of the disc surface with an oxide layer, it is reliably protected from corrosion.

An original appearance and an unlimited selection of designs and casting patterns, which allows any motorist to find wheels to suit his taste.

High precision is observed during production, which ensures perfect balancing, and this reduces wear of bearings, tires, hubs and increases driving comfort.

Among shortcomings alloy wheels:

A high percentage of defects in production, since products are produced in large volumes.

High degree of fragility (if there is a strong impact, alloy wheels can simply split or crack).

Unsuitable for repair (although repair services for alloy wheels exist, but in very limited quantities and at a high cost).

You can rarely find alloy wheels on sale individually, since they are mainly sold as a set. Therefore, if one disk breaks, the car owner will most likely have to buy a whole new set.

As for the cost of alloy wheels, it is impossible to attribute it to advantages or disadvantages, since it all depends on what to compare with. For example, compared to stamped wheels, the price of castings may seem overpriced. But compared to forged options, the cost of casting is relatively affordable.

3. Countries and manufacturers

Alloy wheels are produced in many countries around the world. As for the amount of casting exports to the world market, the leader in this area is China. But most of the discs produced in China are fakes and replicas of well-known brands from other countries.

If we judge the reliability and originality of alloy wheels, then by this criterion the leaders are the USA, Italy, Germany and Japan. Let's look at a few examples of well-known brands from these countries that have proven themselves to be the best and have received recognition from motorists all over the world.

Alloy wheels production Germany:

BBS is a company whose products have already become a legend, although it has only been operating since 1970. And it gained its fame thanks to alloy wheels for motorsport. BBS products are supplied to the assembly lines of such automakers as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, Maserati, RollsRoyce, Jaguar and others. Retro-style wheels are especially popular among customers.

ALUTEC - the casting of this manufacturer, which appeared in 1996, is recognized by many experts as the strongest and lightest thanks to its secret production technology.

Alloy wheels production Italy:

OZ Racing is a company founded in 1971, and to this day remains one of the leaders in the development and production of alloy wheels for racing cars and production cars. The philosophy and advantages of this manufacturer's products lie in the experience gained in many international races (for example, Formula 1). This brand pays a lot of attention to the style and appearance of its castings.

Arcasting – founded in 2001, the company now occupies one of the leading positions in the production of alloy wheels. This brand produces many wheels with fashionable designs and impeccable quality. As for quality, in 2003 the manufacturer received a certificate from the International Organization for Standardization 9001/2001. What else can serve as a guarantee of confidence in this company?

Alloy wheels production USA:

ADV.1 is a luxury manufacturer that makes its products only to order. This ensures a perfect fit for each individual vehicle make. The brand's philosophy is to move away from templates in the design of alloy wheels and take into account the individuality of customers.

Rotiform - disc models from this manufacturer are distinguished by their futuristic design, variety of shapes and colors. Wheels from this brand are especially popular among designers and studios that tune and “pump up” cars.

Vossen is a manufacturer of exclusive alloy wheels that has been striving to provide motorists with unsurpassed quality and unusual design for 25 years. Thanks to this company, concave models of alloy wheels have become popular. The brand's philosophy is the pursuit of innovation.

Alloy wheels production Japan:

WaldInternational is a manufacturer specializing in tuning premium cars. Now the company is widely known outside of Japan and is one of the trendsetters in the world of tuning. Separately, the company develops entire product lines for each customer, including Bentley, Lexus, BMW, RangeRover.

Enkei – now the discs of this company, founded in 1950, are popular not only in their homeland, but also far beyond its borders. It specializes in the production of wheels for racing, rallying, drifting, and everyday driving.

4. What is the difference between cheap alloy wheels and expensive ones?

Today the choice of alloy wheels is simply huge. Just like the assortment, the range of prices for discs is also huge.

The price of a disc includes the cost of production, the cost of delivery to the consumer, a fee for a trademark and, in some cases, a marketing component.


Sometimes a high price is not a guarantee of quality products, just as a low price is not always a guarantee of fakes and low-quality discs. Therefore, when choosing disks, we strongly recommend that you study reviews on the Internet and watch videos of operational tests, as otherwise you may stumble upon low-quality products.

Let's try to find out the difference between expensive alloy wheels (from well-known brands, excluding the option of fakes) and cheap ones.

1. Expensive disks are perfectly centered and have impeccable geometry, which cannot be said about all the cheap options, among which there are sometimes even crooked ones.

2. For expensive discs, their quality is monitored at all stages of production, so by overpaying money, the buyer can have no doubt about the quality of the product. Cheap discs are often simply poured into molds and waited for the metal to harden, which is why cases of poor quality are not uncommon among such products.

3. Each well-known manufacturer of expensive alloy wheels has its own alloy recipe, which has been developed and improved over the years. And in cheap models they can use a monoalloy of aluminum. And although it is strong, it is fragile.

4. The external design of expensive alloy wheels is impeccable: the surface is perfectly smooth, and the painting is done with high precision and using high-quality paint. In cheap options, the paint may peel off after several trips.

5. The performance characteristics of expensive models are characterized by good resistance to external influences and shock. Cheap options are only suitable for use on a flat surface, as otherwise they will quickly crack.

6. The service life of expensive disks is much longer (they last for decades) than cheap ones; in addition, expensive models are guaranteed without any problems.

7. Expensive wheels do not harm the environment, since their production complies with all environmental legislation.

8. The image created by expensive discs cannot be compared with the image created by cheap options. A good car will look more harmonious with expensive castings from famous brands.

5. Nuances of choice

When choosing alloy car wheels, the buyer should consider the following aspects:

Car make and model; Compliance of disks with the required sizes; Possible operating conditions.


The most correct decision would be to purchase alloy wheels made specifically for a specific car brand. In this case, these disks will be ideal and there will be no problems with their installation. But this option is not always acceptable for a motorist (for example, he may not like the design), so some nuances of choice should be taken into account.

Nuances of choice alloy wheels:

Before purchasing castings, you need to find out in what conditions the discs will be used, since the external environment will significantly affect their safety. Harsh operating conditions lead to scratches and peeling paint.

Alloy wheels are typically made from either an aluminum alloy or a magnesium alloy, each of which has its own advantages. Aluminum is lightweight and not sensitive to corrosion, but has low ductility, which is why it often cracks. Magnesium is more flexible, but has other disadvantages. Which alloy to choose depends on the client's needs and preferences.

It is worth paying attention to the design of the discs and taking into account that they will need to be washed, and fancy shapes are much more difficult to wash than simple ones.

The dimensions of the selected casting should not differ from the standard one by more than 2 inches, as this will degrade the performance of the product.

To fasten the cast structure, you must remember to select bolts of a special length, which will facilitate installation.

We must remember that the warranty only applies to alloy wheel models that were selected in accordance with the instructions for the car.

Before purchasing, you should definitely check for a quality certificate not only from the manufacturer, but also domestic.

Experts do not recommend using alloy wheels in winter.

You should not choose the cheapest casting options.

6. What tires should I wear?

Typically, a motorist selects alloy wheels to match an existing set of tires. But it also happens that tires need to be selected after purchasing cast structures.

The main rule that must be remembered when choosing tires for wheels is that the tires must match the size of the alloy wheels and fit perfectly on them. If the tires are too large for the rims, their operation will be problematic. And, if they turn out to be very small, then their installation will be problematic.

If the wheels you choose are expensive and from a well-known brand, then the right decision would be to buy the same tires for them. In order not to make a mistake in your choice, we recommend visiting thematic automotive forums and websites, where you can read the available information or ask your questions.

Often manufacturers of alloy wheels or Distributing companies immediately recommend tires for them, and some even produce them themselves. This option makes life much easier for the motorist, because you won’t have to worry about selecting tires in addition to wheels.

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