How to install computer coolers correctly. PC cooling diagram: which direction should the fans blow? Axial, centrifugal - what does it mean?

In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air extraction using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you a lot positive points. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity - all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.

- In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air exhaust using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you many positive aspects. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity - all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.

Preparing the ventilation duct

The exhaust fan must be installed before laying the tiles. In every modern house, a ventilation duct is already provided for the hood. Most often it is located in the corner of the bathroom, between the toilet and the bathtub, in the wall. In order to avoid problems with cutting the tiles during further work, it is best to mark the hole for installation, stepping back slightly from the wall. If the hole that was made during design is small for your fan, then you can enlarge it using a hammer drill and a spade attachment. Before continuing work, we pull out the power cable from the switch so that it does not fray, it is necessary to place it in a corrugated tube. The lack of cable complicates the situation. To connect the system, you will have to stretch a VVG wire with 3 copper wires with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.

What is a cooler? Air system PC cooling

Cooler(from the English cooler) - literally translated as cooler. Essentially, it is a device designed to cool the heating element of the computer (most often the central processor). The cooler is a metal radiator with a fan that drives air through it. Most often, a fan in a computer system unit is called a cooler. This is not entirely correct. A fan is a fan, and a cooler is precisely a device (a radiator with a fan) that cools a specific element (for example, a processor).

Fans installed in the case system unit computer, provide general ventilation in the case, the entry of cold air and the removal of hot air to the outside. This results in a general decrease in temperature inside the housing.

A cooler, unlike case fans, provides local cooling of a specific element that gets very hot. The cooler most often stands on central processor and video card. After all, the video processor heats up no less than the CPU, and sometimes the load on it is much greater, for example, during a game.

The power supply also contains a fan, which simultaneously serves both to cool the heating elements in the power supply, as it blows air through it, and for general ventilation inside the computer. In the simplest version of a PC cooling system, it is the fan inside the power supply that provides air ventilation inside the entire case.
Helpful advice:
At least occasionally check the temperature of your PC components. This will help avoid many unnecessary problems. Now there are many free programs for this. For example, . Working temperature The temperature of the processor should not exceed 75 degrees; the temperature of the video card largely depends on the power of the model. For expensive cards and 90-100 degrees can be considered normal temperature. Optimal temperature for hard drive– 30-45 degrees.

In which direction should the fans in the case spin?

So, let's look at the computer ventilation and cooling scheme. After all, many beginners have self-assembly computer the question arises: “Where should the fan blow” or “Which direction should the cooler spin.” In fact, this is really important, because properly organized ventilation inside the computer is the key to its reliable operation.

Cold air is supplied to the housing from the front lower part (1). This must also be taken into account when cleaning your computer from dust. It is imperative to vacuum the area where air is sucked into the computer. The air flow gradually heats up and in the upper rear part of the case the already hot air is blown out through the power supply (2).

When large number heating elements inside the case (for example, a powerful video card or several video cards, a large number of hard drives etc.) or a small amount of free space inside the case, additional fans are installed in the case to increase air flow and improve cooling efficiency. It is better to install fans with a larger diameter. They provide more air flow at lower speeds, and are therefore more efficient and quieter than fans with a smaller diameter.

When installing fans, consider the direction in which they blow. Otherwise, you can not only not improve the cooling of your computer, but also worsen it. If there are a large number of hard drives, or if presence of disks working for high speeds(from 7200 rpm), an additional fan should be installed in the front part of the case (3) so that it blows hard disks.

If there are a large number of heating elements (a powerful video card, several video cards, a large number of cards installed in the computer) or if there is not enough free space inside the case, it is recommended to install an additional fan in the upper rear part of the case (4). This fan should blow air outside. This will increase the air flow passing through the case and cooling all internal components of the computer. Do not install the rear fan so that it blows inside the case! This will disrupt normal circulation inside the PC. On some cases it is possible to install a fan on the side cover. In this case, the fan should spin so that it sucks air inside the case. Under no circumstances should it be blown outside, otherwise it will not cool enough top part computer, in particular the power supply, motherboard and processor.

Which direction should the fan on the cooler blow?

I repeat that the cooler is designed for local cooling of a specific element. Therefore, the overall air circulation in the housing is not taken into account here. The fan on the cooler should blow air through the radiator, thereby cooling it. That is, the fan on the processor cooler should blow towards the processor.

On some cooler models, the fan is installed on a remote radiator. In this case, it is better to install it so that the air flow is directed towards the rear wall of the case or upward towards the power supply.

On most powerful video cards, the cooler consists of a radiator and an impeller, which does not blow air inward from above, but drives it in a circle. That is, in this case, air is sucked in through one half of the radiator and blown out through the other.

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A bathroom exhaust fan is an important component, as it allows you to ensure a normal microclimate in this room, as well as reduce the absolute level of humidity. In addition to natural ventilation, it is necessary to install a forced system in this room, which will prevent the formation of mold, pathogenic bacteria, and spoilage. electrical appliances due to high humidity, and also eliminate extraneous odors. Currently, there are a large number of ventilation systems for bathrooms that you can install yourself.

Why do you need a bathroom ventilation system?

The bathroom is more susceptible to natural condensation than other rooms and almost always has high level humidity in the absence of a normal ventilation system. As a result, unpleasant musty odors and water from condensation on the walls begin to appear in this room, which contributes to the rapid development of fungi and mold.

Currently, there are two types of ventilation: natural (natural) and forced (artificial). If it is not possible to create normal natural ventilation (there are no windows or they do not open), then a forced ventilation system is used, which involves installing certain types fans intended for these domestic premises.

According to its design, ventilation can be:

Ductless. In this case, ventilation is carried out in the bathroom through openings in the wall of the common ventilation ducts of multi-storey buildings.
Duct. It is used to supply the ventilation system to places that require the most intensive and frequent air purification.

Also, in some cases, owners of apartments and private houses prefer to install a switchable forced system, even if there is a natural type of ventilation in the bathroom. Thus, you can be absolutely sure that a normal microclimate will always reign in this room.

This is due to the fact that in many old houses that were built more than 20 years ago, general ventilation systems are no longer able to cope with constantly increasing loads, so it is necessary to choose more modern methods combating high humidity.

Criterias of choice

Most effective method To make proper ventilation is to purchase and install a forced-type electric fan. Usually for such purposes they purchase wall-mounted axial fans different power.

When choosing such a device, you need to pay attention to:

Security system. The fan is a household electrical appliance, and the bathroom is an enclosed area with high humidity, so the device must have maximum degree protecting the housing from water and steam.
Noise insulation. The noise level of the device should be minimal so as not to irritate people living in the apartment. If necessary, you can install a special noise suppressor and supplement it with noise-insulating materials that are placed inside the fan.
The power of the ventilation device must correspond to the dimensions of the bathroom and the number of occupants. At insufficient power the meaning of this system will simply be lost, since it will not be able to fully perform its functions.

Requirements for forced-air fans

Noise level in small room should be no more than 35 - 40 dB.
The ventilation system must create a regular air change at least 5–8 times per hour and comply with SNiP standards.
The exhaust device must have a check valve if the air will be discharged only through one branch duct.
The housing must have a waterproof class of at least IP34.
The 36 V motor will allow the device to operate quite silently.

Classification of exhaust systems

According to their design features, fans can be:

Axial. The air flow is forced by fan blades. The pressure it creates is no more than 50 Pa. Typically installed in a ductless ventilation system.
Diametrical. A fan with a simple drum-type impeller and low efficiency.
Centrifugal. Available in a spiral casing, it is one of the most powerful in terms of performance, but also the noisiest.
Centrifugal-axial. This fan has it all positive characteristics two fans: small dimensions, low noise level and high performance.

Many modern fans are equipped with additional functions

Electric fans with a built-in motion sensor can recognize the human body within their “visibility” radius and turn on the motor. This system allows you to significantly save electricity.
A fan with a timer is able to recognize a moving person and turn on the motor to start working. If movement stops within its range, the device turns off.
Fan with temperature (humidity) controller depending on its design features removes hot air from the bathroom or, conversely, heats it. To install such a device, a special circuit is provided that allows you to configure optimal temperature indoor air. If the established norm is exceeded, the motor of the device begins to work, creating the necessary air exchange in the bathroom and preventing people from overheating.
A device with a check valve is necessary to prevent the reverse flow of air, as well as foreign odors from the outside, when it is not working.
The fan with louvers is also designed to prevent the flow of air from the street when the device is turned off. Only in this case the blinds open and close manually.

How to correctly calculate the power of a bathroom hood

Before purchasing a fan, you should calculate the optimal power level of the system.

To do this, we use the formula 6V or 8V, where V is the volume of the room, and the numbers are coefficients that show the number of people using the bathroom. If more than 3 people regularly use it, then we will need a coefficient of 8.

If the fan is connected to a light switch, it will start working only when a person enters the bathroom. In this way, energy will be saved, and the system will perform its functions when they are really needed. But not all people want to take a bath or shower with the sound of a humming fan motor. In this case, you can make an autonomous switch for it, which will work when the room is empty.

The performance (power) of the fan can also be calculated using another formula:

Determine the area of the bathroom.
Multiply this number by 5.
We add another 20% to the result.
This gives the recommended fan power.

Installation of a forced ventilation system

First, let's look at some rules for installing a fan.

The fan is mounted as close to the ceiling as possible and as far as possible from the opening window or door, otherwise only partial ventilation will be provided, which will not affect other areas of the bathroom.
Should be located as far as possible from any sources of water to avoid short circuits.
The wires that go to the fan must be buried in grooves or hidden under the ceiling (suspended or suspended).
If there is no ventilation pipe in the bathroom, you can install a PVC sewer pipe with a diameter of 10 cm.

Step-by-step installation

We will look at how to properly connect and install a fan using the example of the ERA 4S ET device, which is equipped with a protective insect net and an electronic timer. This model has a ball bearing motor with maximum protection from overheating.
Since according to the architect's standard design, a ventilation vent is provided in the wall of the bathroom of each multi-story building, you do not have to do it yourself. Maybe just increase in diameter if necessary. We will need a hole with a diameter of 10 cm.
We lay a VVG 3x1.5 cable in a special corrugated pipe that comes from the switch. To do this, before starting repairs and laying tiles, it was necessary to make a groove from the switch to the hole and lay the VVG cable for the future fan. Insulate the ends for further work with him.
We will mount our fan in this hole.
You can attach the fan to the wall using self-tapping screws, which are included with the device along with dowels.
But it is best to use silicone sealant of the “Germent” type if you do not want to drill extra holes in the new tile, as it can be seriously damaged and then you will have to replace the tile.
First, we unscrew the screw on the side of the case and snap off the front part of the device.
We cut off the excess part of the corrugation, and move the wires a little to the side so that it does not interfere with air circulation.
We apply the fan to the vent and run the wire. If the special hole is not suitable for the wire, you can drill it in the fan housing itself.
Apply a thick layer of sealant along the entire perimeter of the hole for the fan, press it and fix it well. We check the correct location and leave the sealant to harden for about 2-3 hours. You can additionally secure it with masking tape and then remove it.
To connect the fan's power, we pre-installed a wire with three cores, which we stretched from the switch to the installation site. The fan is supplied with phase from the switch, ground and ground.
Below is a diagram of connecting the device to a two-key switch so that you can turn on the light with one key and the fan with the other.
The second circuit option will allow you to connect the device to a single-key switch. Simultaneous activation light and fan.
In order to connect the fan electrician to the wires “as expected”, it is necessary to insert a cable with 4 cores (phase, ground, neutral and controlled phase). Since we have plastic case device, there is no need to ground it. Therefore, we use the third wire to connect the timer control system
Below is a diagram of connecting a device with a timer to a two-button switch.
For the fan to operate, we need to have a 220 V network at terminals L and N, and the timer will be controlled by the phase that is supplied from the switch to the third terminal “T”.
After we have connected all the wires, we need to snap the front cover back and tighten the screw.
When installing electrical wiring, we will use distribution panels in a minimal way, and simply make connections in the socket boxes.
As a result, it turns out that a VVG 3x1.5 wire goes from the panel to the socket box.
We connect the white wire to the common terminal of the switch (schematically indicated in red). We connect the blue conductor to the ground connection in the socket box (to turn on the fan and light), and connect the yellow-green conductor to the protective light conductor. For a convenient and durable connection of all wire cores, we used special terminals.
We connect the outgoing cable in this way: we connect the white core to the common terminal of the switch; blue - we connect zero to zero wires; yellow-green - to one of the switch outputs
As a result, we can turn on the lighting with one key and control the timer with the second.
In the fan we connect the output wire as follows: the white wire to the “L” terminal; a blue wire to the “N” terminal and a yellow-green wire to the “T” terminal.
If necessary, we can connect a fan with a timer to a single-key switch according to the developed circuit presented below.
After connection, we check the operation of the device. When the fan is running, the blue “Network” indicator light is on.

Diagram of fan operating modes

Our fan can operate in two modes, which are switched by moving a jumper (special jumper) on the board chip.
As an example, we have put together a diagram for connecting a fan to a single-key switch.
If the device will operate in the “Bathroom” ventilation mode, then the jumper should be installed in this way (Fig. 1).
This way the fan can work in a slightly different way. This mode is designed to ensure that the noise of the device and drafts that appear during its intensive operation do not disturb people bathing in the bathroom.
Operation system: When the switch button is turned on, the engine does not work. If the button is in the on mode for more than 1.30 minutes, then when it is turned off, the device engine will turn on certain time, which will be installed special system regulator (from 15 to 45 minutes). But if the button is turned on for less time, the engine will not start.

How to connect a regular fan with a cord

Connecting a fan with a cord is much easier, since it does not require special knowledge of electrical circuits.

We install the fan in a vent under the ceiling, as in the first case, but we just do not connect any wires to it, since it will work from a 220 V power supply using a regular wire with a plug.
We “sit” the fan on the sealant so that it is tightly fixed. We plug the wire into the outlet, and that’s it. Now, when we need to turn on the fan, we simply pull the cord and the engine starts. After the room is completely ventilated, we will also need to pull the cord and turn off the fan.

The disadvantage of such a system is not only manual activation devices, but also the need for close proximity electrical outlet, since otherwise you will have to use an extension cord so that you can connect the fan, which is located on the wall opposite the outlet.

Checking work

In order to check the correctness of the selection and connection of the ventilation system, we can carry out a simple test: take a sheet of paper and apply it to the grille of the exhaust system. If the air circulates well in the room and is removed through special ventilation ducts, then the leaf will firmly “stick” to the grille.

The fan should be turned upside down. Then a design without zigzags would look more aesthetically pleasing to the cable channel. I watch the video for learning purposes)))
Michael
https://www.asutpp.ru/elektrika-v-kvartire/ventilyator-dlya-vannoj.html

Kantovius: And the mold problem is unlikely to be solved by a fan. Just the same, a fan solves this problem with 100% probability. Of course, if you have mold, you install a fan and do nothing else, then the mold will remain in its place. First, the mold must be removed and the area treated. And you won't have it again. Kantovius: Cheap model It will serve its purpose for several years and install a new one just like it. There is one good saying. We are not rich enough to buy cheap things. Why buy a new one of the same type when you can pay twice as much at once and use it for 10–15 years without problems. Moreover, I would highly recommend paying attention to the fan noise level. Think for yourself.
Pavlusha1 Neophyte Poster
https://forum.onliner.by/viewtopic.php?t=10468459

Video: how to install a bathroom fan in a private house

Thus, using modern systems forced ventilation, we can quickly and effectively solve the problem of high humidity in the bathroom. By choosing exhaust systems that are equipped with a timer or motion sensor, you don’t have to worry about saving energy, since the device will only work when necessary. Installing a fan yourself without involving specialists is not difficult.

Ensuring a comfortable microclimate in the bathroom and shower room can be problematic. Increased level Humidity has a detrimental effect on cabinets, mirrors and cabinets, promoting the growth of mold.

If natural ventilation cannot cope, then you can install an exhaust fan in the bathroom - the unit forcibly removes exhaust humid air from the room.

We'll tell you how to choose suitable model, and also describe the step-by-step process of installing the equipment. The installation technology is quite simple, the main thing is to take into account some connection nuances and follow the instructions below.

The opinion that bathroom fans were invented by manufacturers to profit from consumers is not true. After all, living conditions in different houses are radically different. But it doesn’t always satisfy needs.

The requests of the residents of the house/apartment vary - some wash clothes in the bathroom, like to steam for 1-1.5 hours, while others just take a 5-minute contrast shower.

All this in conditions of non-functional ventilation is fraught with the appearance of mustiness and other unpleasant surprises in the abode of purity, for example, the appearance.

The formation of mold and its active reproduction will lead to an unpleasant odor. Moreover, black spots will appear on the mirrors in the bathroom, and wooden furniture will gradually begin to rot (+)

Installing a fan will be a salvation for many bathrooms in high-rise buildings and private houses of modern construction with sealed windows and insulated walls.

It would be a good decision to install a fan if the toilet and bathtub are in the same room. The hood will add comfort to the lives of all apartment residents who are forced to use a shared bathroom.

Fans are especially relevant for 2-3 bathrooms of a brand new wooden cottage - they will help avoid the appearance of mold and gradual rotting of the wood

If the general house ventilation works well and there is excellent draft in the bathroom, and the walls of the room quickly dry out after bathing procedures, then you can safely forget about the fan.

If there is a need to install a fan, you need to correctly position the device and inlet openings or valves to ensure good air circulation in the bathroom

The natural inflow and removal of exhaust air is able to fully satisfy the needs of consumers.

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How not to make a mistake with the choice?

If you need to buy a fan, an inexperienced home/apartment owner can easily get lost among the variety of these devices.

They all differ visually and in their cost. The biggest mistake is to choose equipment based on the price that seems most acceptable.

Types of fans and their features

The question of whether a fan is needed is always decided individually. If the device is needed, then you have to select it optimal model, capable of performing its functions of removing exhaust air from the bathroom/shower.

All fans vary in appearance, method of fastening, principle of operation and location

According to the method of fastening there are:

invoices, mounted at the entrance to the ventilation duct;
channel installed inside air ducts.

For private use, invoices are used - they are easy to install and are quite capable of satisfying the needs of all residents of a country house/cottage. If the house has an extensive network of air ducts, then installation would be justified.

In rooms with high ceilings and industrial premises they install channel models fans

Depending on the location, the following devices are distinguished:

Wall mounted. They are mounted horizontally on the wall;
Ceiling, installed in a vertical plane.

In private houses, mainly ceiling ventilation devices are installed, which exhaust exhaust air first into an uninhabited attic, then into the street.

Therefore, it is important to choose a model that has the appropriate moisture protection class

Fan noise. The most acceptable option is up to 35 dB. The lower this indicator, the more comfortable all family members using a bathtub or shower with an installed ventilation device will feel.

If the fan noise is 40 dB or higher, this can disturb the restful sleep of particularly sensitive household members and cause headaches when staying in a ventilated room for a long time.

Noise has negative impact on the health and nervous system of an adult. Before purchasing, you need to check the noise level specified in the instructions.

Easy to install and maintain the device. It’s good if you can install a suitable option yourself without calling experienced professionals. Yes, and ease of maintenance matters - the simpler and less frequent, the preferable.

Additional functionality. It is convenient if the fan is equipped with a timer, decorative lighting, protective curtains or a humidity sensor. High-tech models can be controlled via SMS.

For bathrooms and showers, most often they choose models that are either extremely simple or with a lot of additional bells and whistles, so as not to feel discomfort

Price. No matter how much you would like to buy the most best model, the price always stops it. It depends on this parameter final choice consumer - someone will stop at Spanish SILENT, while others will prefer more affordable domestically produced devices.

Appearance. It is the design of the equipment that is valued by many consumers who carefully design the interior of their home. The device should fit organically or add zest to the created style solution for a particular room.

Controversial issues in choosing equipment

When choosing a fan for a bathroom/shower, you can see a lot of controversy about additional functions between the owners of the device.

Check valve. You can hear categorically opposing opinions about the need/unnecessity of this element. It is needed to prevent air from coming back in.

The role of the check valve is difficult to overestimate. The only trouble is that it needs to be serviced periodically

For example, if neighbors are frying fish/potatoes, then when the fan is turned off, the valve closes and prevents air with the aromas of the neighbor's dinner from entering the apartment. If the door to the bathroom is sealed, then you can refuse the purchase.

This is very individual, because many craftsmen, when installing doors to the bathroom, take into account regulatory requirements and leave a gap of 1-2 cm from the bottom edge to the floor.

Another unpleasant phenomenon is that these valves become clogged and can stick to the fan. They require cleaning and care. Every 6 months you need to take out the fan and clean the check valve petals with a brush.

Blinds/protective grilles. You can often hear the opinion that it is advisable to take a model without them. Blinds are needed to close the opening if necessary with one easy movement. This is justified when used by people who like to steam and are prone to colds.

When there is no special need for such a function, then a constantly closed grille will lead to the appearance of stale air in the room, when fresh air cannot get in, and it is difficult for waste air to escape.

Safety net. It is needed to prevent cockroaches, butterflies and other unwanted guests from entering from the ventilation duct.

On the other hand, the mesh becomes electrified, dust settles on it and cobwebs accumulate. Therefore, it needs to be cleaned often - every week or two. Whether to install a protective mesh or not depends entirely on the specific conditions of the bathroom location.

If there are no insects observed in a private house and there are already gratings at the outlets of the ventilation ducts, such a mesh can be abandoned

Decorative panel, completely blocking direct air entry to the fan. It really affects the performance of the equipment. This point should be taken into account when choosing a model for your bathroom.

When you like 2 options that differ in power, noise and price, you may hear advice that you need to take the more powerful one. This is wrong - the power must clearly correspond to the room’s needs for air renewal.

Very powerful device will make a lot of noise in a small room and cause a lot of other troubles to its user in the form of a rapid drop in temperature, when, after steaming, you can catch a cold

Features of exhaust fan installation

You can improve the microclimate of the bathroom using an exhaust fan on your own or with the help of professionals. The installation option for the ventilation device depends on the complexity of the purchased model and the skills of the apartment/house owner.

If the fan is easy to install and you want to do everything yourself, then all the work will take about 2 hours including drilling the walls.

The process of installing and connecting a fan to the exhaust vent in the bathroom includes a number of traditional steps:

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Where to start the installation?

It is advisable to install the exhaust device in a hole prepared in advance for it. This is done during the construction/renovation stage.

Terms and conditions specifications ventilation ducts for a specific bathroom/shower depend on the type of house, the year it was built and the project. If we're talking about about multi-apartment buildings, there are ventilation ducts that are in working or completely inoperative condition.

For bathroom ventilation country cottage the owner himself determines the size of the ventilation channels, their location and other nuances. Or this is done by specialists hired by the homeowner

You need to start the installation with proper preparation of the channel. To do this, work is carried out that is needed in each specific case - this could be making a hole in the tile to access the ventilation duct or, conversely, adjusting the square section of the entrance to the diameter of the exhaust fan socket.

The ventilation duct can be significantly bigger size than a fan. But this is not a problem - the device often comes with a special pipe for installation, or you can use a more rigid sewer pipe. It is placed in the ventilation duct, and the hole around it is filled with foam.

The option of gluing the fan is impractical - if you need to remove the device for cleaning or repair, it will be extremely difficult to do because of the glue

If the craftsmen laid the tiles, then they will have to mark the diameter of the hole for the fan. You can look in the documentation or simply lean the back of the device and trace the outline of its bell with a pencil. Now you have to make a hole in the tile.

Also, the power cable must be brought out to connect the fan. Ideally, it lies under the tile in the place where the device was originally planned to be installed. If this has not been done in advance, then you will have to lay it separately on top of the tiles, using a special box to protect it from splashes.

Features and nuances of installation

Depending on the shape of the fan, the initial parameters of the ventilation duct and the type of fresh air entering the room, there may be some installation nuances.

So, when the hole for the fan is small and there is reverse draft when the device is not working, you can make legs for the fan - 1-2 cm

The air will flow smoothly around the fan and a good air flow will result. The legs for the fan can be cut out of foam plastic, which can simultaneously perform the function of shock absorption.

If the size of the entrance to the ventilation duct was adjusted to the fan socket, then when the mounting foam dries, you can put a pair of very ordinary rubber bands on the fan socket, as they use in cash registers for money.

Some models are equipped with elastic bands on the socket, allowing you to securely fix the device in the prepared ventilation duct

This fastening method will allow you to remove the fan if necessary and remove it without effort to clean everything. The rubber band itself acts as a gasket and is capable of dampening vibrations during operation of the device. Another plus is that you don’t have to drill holes in the wall for mounting.

For ventilation holes If you have a large diameter, you can use a double ventilation grille. This is true when exhaust air leaves the ventilation duct through the upper part when the fan is running, and there is a free inflow through the lower part.

Twin ventilation grille possible only in some old high-rise buildings

Direct installation of equipment

When preparations for installing an exhaust fan in the bathroom/shower room have been completed and a place for the fan has been provided and marked, installation can begin. First you need to remove the top part of the fan - the decorative panel or grille.

Depending on the chosen mounting option, you will need to securely fix the fan.

The most common options:

drill holes in the wall;
place the fan on liquid nails/glue;
use 2 elastic bands.

Most correct option– drill holes for mounting, trying on the fan. Here, before drilling, you need to carefully level the device. First, drill the tiles using a special feather with a drill or a hammer drill with a drill. Then use a hammer drill to make a corresponding hole for the dowel.

You need to make a groove or a special hole for the wire. The fan itself has a hole for the wires. You need to install the fan in place and pull the wire to the surface.

In the prepared hole for installing the fan, the wire should be on the surface

All that remains is to secure it with self-tapping screws or other screws. To do this, it is convenient to use a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Now you need to connect the power cable to the fan contacts. The manufacturer's instructions will be useful for this. Now you need to install the mesh and protective grille in place.

It is advisable to insulate the terminals and wires to avoid excess moisture coming into contact with the contacts.

All that remains is to turn on the fan and check operation. Moreover, it is most convenient to provide for the location of the switch in the bathroom/shower, and not outside it. And it is not advisable to connect the exhaust fan to the light switch - if you have to wash your face and brush your teeth, then turning on the device is not required.

It would be practical to choose a switching option that is convenient for the user - for example, by programming work on a timer

The method for connecting a hood to a switch or model with a timer is described.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video about organizing bathroom ventilation and the intricacies of installing a fan:

The video explains in detail how to properly install an exhaust fan in the bathroom if you have to drill newly laid tiles on the walls:

The fan can be installed more in a simple way. How to do this is shown step by step in the video:

How to choose a bathroom fan if the bathroom has a sealed door is described in detail in the video:

Having familiarized yourself with the features of choosing a bathroom fan, you can choose the most suitable option, suitable in terms of characteristics and cost.

You can install the device yourself. To do this, you need to become more familiar with the installation and connection process of the device. If such work raises doubts about own strength, then it’s better to invite a professional.

If you have experience installing and using a bathroom exhaust fan, please share the information with our readers. Leave comments and ask questions in the form below.

Cooler (from the English cooler) - literally translated as cooler. Essentially, it is a device designed to cool the heating element of the computer (most often the central processor). The cooler is a metal radiator with a fan that drives air through it. Most often, a fan in a computer system unit is called a cooler. This is not entirely correct. A fan is a fan, and a cooler is precisely a device (a radiator with a fan) that cools a specific element (for example, a processor).

Fans installed in the computer system case provide general ventilation in the case, the entry of cold air and the removal of hot air to the outside. This results in a general decrease in temperature inside the housing.

A cooler, unlike case fans, provides local cooling of a specific element that gets very hot. The cooler is most often located on the central processor and video card. After all, the video processor heats up no less than the CPU, and sometimes the load on it is much greater, for example, during a game.

In which direction should the fans in the case spin?

So, let's look at the computer ventilation and cooling scheme. After all, many beginners, when assembling a computer on their own, have the question “Where should the fan blow” or “Which direction should the cooler spin?” In fact, this is really important, because properly organized ventilation inside the computer is the key to its reliable operation.

In the case of a large number of heating elements inside the case (for example, a powerful video card or several video cards, a large number of hard drives, etc.) or a small amount of free space inside the case, additional fans are installed in the case to increase air flow and improve cooling efficiency. It is better to install fans with a larger diameter. They provide more air flow at lower speeds, and are therefore more efficient and quieter than fans with a smaller diameter.

When installing fans, consider the direction in which they blow. Otherwise, you can not only not improve the cooling of your computer, but also worsen it. If you have a large number of hard drives, or if you have drives operating at high speeds (from 7200 rpm), you should install an additional fan in the front of the case (3) so that it blows air through the hard drives.

On some cases it is possible to install a fan on the side cover. In this case, the fan should spin so that it sucks air inside the case. Under no circumstances should it be allowed to blow it out, otherwise the upper part of the computer, in particular the power supply, motherboard and processor, will not be sufficiently cooled.

Which direction should the fan on the cooler blow?