Changes in the color of the dashboard lighting. Change the color of the LCD indicator. Changing the color of the bk display

I have long wanted to change the color of the instrument panel lighting and other elements, but somehow I never got around to it. But this event happened.
Thank you so much for your direct help with the remodeling, advice and inspiration Consigliori.
(sorry about the photo, again I took photos with my mobile phone, and no matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t get adequate photos that would truly reflect the result, either because it was dark, or because the backlight was made with LEDs)

Car LEDs of white and blue colors were used for the change. The photo below shows that they do not differ in size from standard backlight bulbs:
1 - standard backlight bulb with socket
2 - standard backlight bulb without socket
3 - car LED with a socket (already with a sawn-off lens)
4 - car LED without socket

The first thing that was done was to redo the instrument panel lighting. (The operation actually turned out to be the simplest).
We remove the instrument panel (not difficult, just 6 bolts), remove the standard backlight bulbs, and put car LEDs in their place. In this case, it is necessary to check the polarity (since LEDs have it, unlike light bulbs). After installation, we received a moon-blue backlight, i.e. exactly what I wanted. But there was one caveat - the places where the LEDs were located were clearly visible, and as a result, the unevenness of the illumination. By advice Consigliori and his direct participation (help), the LED lenses were cut down almost to zero (the photo shows the LED in the socket). This procedure had a positive effect - bright spots became less pronounced, and the illumination became more uniform. We did not stop there and continued the experiment, painting the ends of the LEDs with a clerical touch - the effect from such a minor procedure was amazing, we achieved what we wanted, the areas where the LEDs are located are practically invisible to the naked eye, and the illumination is uniform.
In the instrument panel, I also changed the light bulb to a blue LED in the backlight of the odometer window (also with a sawed-off lens and a painted end).
For aesthetic reasons, the light indicating that the light is on was replaced with a blue LED (done later, the experience did not come immediately)

The next stage is all the available buttons (i.e., turning on the lights/side lights, heated rear window, fog lights, emergency lights, recirculation). Again, there is nothing complicated.
First I tried installing blue LEDs. To do this, you need to remove the green filter from the buttons, otherwise you won't get normal blue light. It turned out nice, with one exception, there weren’t enough blue LEDs for all the buttons (during the alterations, a number of LEDs were ruined). Illuminating buttons with different colors is not good, so they began to change them to one color, installed white LEDs in each button and returned the filters to their place. The color turned out to be grey-blue. It doesn’t fall out of the overall picture, it even somehow introduces contrast.

The next stage is illumination of the self-propelled guns.
We removed the SAUO unit, removed the front cover, the light guide, painted everything there black, including the handles themselves, installed a white LED with a sawn-off lens, painted the scales and numbers, where necessary, with a blue marker. Collected. The SAUO block is ready. (unfortunately, it is practically not visible in the photo, I don’t know why - in reality it glows quite decently, in a white-violet color, with the exception of, of course, places where it glows red and blue)

Next, the ashtray was illuminated.
It seems like the procedure is not complicated: remove the filter and change the light bulb to an LED, but... a Russian-made car - it’s not so, it all turned out to be simple.
I couldn't get around with a screwdriver, but I couldn't unscrew it (I didn't have a small screwdriver). I did this as follows: I removed the tape recorder and crawled up to the backlight bar with my fingers - in order to turn the fasteners into which the self-tapping screws holding this bar are screwed. (I wrote this in 5 seconds, this work took 20 minutes). Well, then everything is simple: unscrew the socket with the light bulb, tighten it with the LED. The LED also needs to cut down the lens. Reassembled in reverse order. The ashtray lighting is ready.

The last step was to make a backlight for the stove damper position scale.
This procedure was done at home and turned out to be the most (in my opinion) complicated and time-consuming.
First of all, I tried, well, luckily, just changing the light bulb to an LED, but luck passed me by - it didn’t illuminate anything except itself, because... in the standard installation it shines on the scale. If you place the LED so that it shines at the end of the scale, then it will be fine, but for this you need to redo the scale itself and come up with a mount for the LED. This was done as follows:
I removed the scale mount, sawed off the eye (this can be seen in the following photo), because it interfered with the installation of the LED socket.



I painted the scale mounting plane with a stroke to increase the glow (the same as in the SAUO block).

To properly install an LED with a socket, I sawed off the edge from the scale on the side of the scale prism (along with the prism itself)

I cut off the antennae on the cartridge, due to which it was held in a standard holder, to give it an even plane (I did it on both sides). In order to prevent the LED from protruding above the scale (this will interfere with its normal fit, I cut out a place in the scale mount for the LED (unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of the mount with a sawed-out place for the LED. To secure the LED with the holder, I couldn’t do anything more clever At that time I couldn’t think of anything other than gluing it to the mount with super glue (I glued the cartridge, the LED can be changed if necessary. This is how it turned out).

Photo of assembled grille with o scale

As can be seen from the last photo, the contacts of the cartridge protrude beyond the border of the grille, so during installation they were bent in different directions at an angle of 90 degrees, the wires were removed from the connection connector and dressed (of course, everything was insulated).
This is how the finished grille glowed at home



The installation process itself is simple. As I wrote above, I disassembled the block, put separate wires on the cartridge contacts, insulated them and put the grille in place.

Well, that's all. The photo below shows the result of three days of work (the work was done in the evenings, two hours at a time)




As I wrote at the beginning, photographs do not accurately reflect reality. In fact (to the eye) such a pronounced transition from bright to dark in the backlight is not visible.

The last photo shows the overexposed buttons of the tape recorder.

p.s.: The backlighting of the power window control buttons was also redone by BSK, but there is no photo, because... The car has been sold and, unfortunately, it won’t be possible to do it anymore.

Greetings, my dear subscribers and random guests of this wonderful blog. Let me, first of all, congratulate the entire male half of car owners on the upcoming Defender of the Fatherland holiday. I would like to wish you to remain adequate in such a difficult period, not to succumb to panic and provocations, from a political and economic point of view, and to always move forward towards your goals. Happy Holidays, guys!))

And today, I want to finish a series of articles on changing interior lighting on the Peugeot 308. Here are previous articles on this topic:

The final article will be the answer to the question “How to change the color of the on-board computer (OB) display of the Peugeot 308.”

First of all, you need to remove the entire Bk. We also discussed this topic in the article Removing the Peugeot 308 on-board computer.

The BC removed from the car looks like this.

To disassemble it further, we will need the appropriate tool. This time I used a smartphone repair kit and a multi-function screwdriver with a flat head and a Torex star bit, as well as a scalpel.

We remove the sun visor of the screen; to do this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws on the back side of the BC block.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, press out all the retaining latches around the perimeter and remove the visor.

Then, using the same screwdriver with a flat head, carefully press out all the iron ears of the protective cover of the screen, and remove the rear casing covering the BC microcircuit.

Carefully, using your fingers, release the printed circuit board from the plastic hooks.

We separate all parts of the BC from each other: Protective cover, screen, light diffuser and printed circuit board. Be careful! The screen is soldered to the printed circuit board via a flexible cable and is not separated from it. Don't try to tear it off!

An orange light filter is located between the diffuser and the screen, despite the standard amber LEDs. Let me remind you that the screens in this car are blue when exposed to light. I wrote about this in an article.

Using a sharp thin scalpel, according to the template specified by the standard light filter, we cut out the required red light filter. It is very important to observe all the cutouts, steps and bends, otherwise the filter will not fit tightly and the screen will glow unevenly.

After this, you need to re-solder the amber LEDs to red ones. To do this, it is most convenient to use a soldering station with a hair dryer, as well as a soldering holder.

Be careful and be sure to note the polarity of the standard LEDs. You can even safely mark this on the PCB itself with a thin marker. The polarity of new LEDs can be checked using a conventional multitester in “beeper” mode.

Having replaced all the diodes, we get a board that is no different from the standard version. If you do everything carefully with a thin soldering iron tip, then no one will notice the change)

We assemble the entire BC unit in the reverse order, install a red light filter and connect it to the car’s on-board network. As a result, we get this red-black display.

Thanks for your attention 😉

Well, I decided to write a small fact.
Constructive criticism and corrections are welcome (well, I won’t refuse the pluses).
Perhaps, based on my material, it will be possible to put together a normal fact about interior lighting.

So here it is:

Relighting the interior of Ford Focus 2
(with rebuilt Sonya, tidy, climate control unit)

A short description of the illumination of various elements of the interior of my focus. The overlighting usually used LEDs on 3mm legs and SMD 3528, as well as unknown markings (labeled 4 in the last photo). From this description, before starting work, you can determine the required number, type and color of the required LEDs, as well as their location.

1. Instrument panel

The places where the diodes are installed are circled.
Explanation:
1. Two turn signal diodes each
2. Immobilizer diode
3. Diodes for illuminating the instrument needles (the speedometer and tachometer have 2 diodes each). Don't forget that the arrows are red and work as light filters.
4. Diodes for illuminating instrument scales.
5. Two diodes for information indicators. messages (yellow and red).
6. Group of diodes (12 pcs.) for backlighting the BC display.
7. Two snowflake diodes (yellow and red).
8. Rear fog.
9. Front fog.
10. Dimensions.
11. High beam
12. Some kind of spiral.
13. Cruise control.
14. High engine speed.
15. Airbag.
16. Not wearing a seat belt.
17. Handbrake.
18. Battery.
19. Oil pressure.
20.Check Engine.
21. Empty tank.
22.ABS
23.ESP
24. Unsoldered place.

I used SMD 3528 diodes. To backlight the BC display, you can also use simple diodes on 3mm legs.
There is an orange filter under the BC display; therefore, to change the backlight, it must be removed. The display itself is blue polarized. Those. By soldering white diodes we get blue backlighting with white letters.
The arrows act as light filters - by changing their color accordingly, you can end up with black.
The red zone of the tachometer is organized by applying a red layer to the substrate.

2. Climate block

SMD 3528 diodes were used.
The top photo shows a general plan, the middle one shows the display soldered off, and the bottom photo shows the location of the diodes.
It is better to leave the diodes under the numbers unchanged, because The buttons again contain light filters. 1 – red, 2 – blue.
To change the display backlight diodes, the latter must be desoldered - this may cause a problem.

3. Window lifter block.

SMD 3528 diodes were used.
The trick here is that the diodes are soldered to the bottom side of the board. Due to the lack of such diodes on sale, I simply carefully unbent the legs of the 3528 diodes and soldered them.

4. Light block (this is where it all started for me)

Everything is simple here. LEDs on 3 mm legs are usually used. The diodes numbered 1 are not normally wired. These are diodes for illuminating fog lamp signs. Why it was done this way is a great mystery. How to do this is described on the forum above.

5. Tape recorder

SMD 3528 diodes were used.
The diodes numbered 1 and 2 indicate the “tubes” for receiving and ending signals, respectively. A little trick in the display backlight diodes: they shine at the end of the display (when opened, it will be clear what I mean). Again 3528, soldered sideways.

Well, separately, Sonya’s spinner is also SMD 3528

6. Buttons
The seat heating controls use simple diodes on 3 mm legs, two jokes each.
The glass heating buttons and passenger window buttons use small LEDs, indicated by number 4 in the photo below.

Photo of LEDs on the background of the heating button.

1 – diode from the power window control unit on the driver’s door
2 – Sonya display backlight diodes
3 – diode from the tidy
4 – button diode.

New dashboard lighting in a classic folk car VAZ gives the interior sophistication and a sense of comfort. Installing neon or even LED illumination on a car requires a lot of money for such an expensive pleasure. The best way to solve the problem is to replace the dashboard backlight on your own. The process of replacing the lighting in your garage, firstly, is not complicated, and secondly, it requires less money. One of the options for tuning your car is a special overlay for the dashboard, but this will cost a lot. It will be better if you do the tuning of the instrument panel yourself.

To complete the job you need to be patient, as well as the tools and necessary materials. The first step in creating perfection is disassembling the dashboard. To do this, you need to remove the protective glass of the devices. The next step is to remove the arrows from the instruments. To avoid damaging the arrows made of fragile material, before removing the arrow with a screwdriver, place several layers of cardboard under the opposite end of the plastic. Using a little force, gently remove the arrow from the axis. Similar actions need to be done with the remaining arrows.

The dashboard backing is also very easy to remove. To remove it, you need any stationery knife. The edge of a knife is inserted between the panel and the substrate, and then we cut a layer of sealant around the perimeter of the substrate. After removing the protective glass backing, we proceed to further work on tuning the panel.

A light filter is placed on the surface of the dashboard under the backing, which evenly distributes lighting over the entire area of ​​the panel. This light filter must be removed using a utility knife, carefully scraping off the light-conducting layer.

A light filter is a special paint that is applied to the back side of the dashboard substrate and provides color illumination for numbers and other information indicators. After rough processing of the substrate, the places where the light filter was applied must be treated with acetone or alcohol. The reagent will remove any remaining paint, as well as degrease the surface and prepare it for the next treatment process.

At the next stage of work, you will need to change the dashboard lighting. First you need to “get your teeth into it,” so to speak, and change the odometer backlight. An odometer is an indicator of the distance traveled by a car, measured in kilometers or miles. In order to install a new odometer backlight, you must first remove the odometer screen, remove the blue protective film, remove the old backlight bulb and replace it with a new LED. For the new dashboard lighting, you can use a multi-color LED, which has the ability to change colors at the user’s request. The LED is connected to the standard light bulb socket, then we put the odometer screen in its place.

The next step is to completely replace the dashboard lighting. We attach new LEDs to the instrument panel frame. The multicolor LEDs that we are installing in this case are sold complete with a color switch. If your budget is limited, you can avoid using multi-color LEDs in favor of regular ones. We install the LEDs on the seats and connect them with the standard contact of the previous dashboard lighting.

The speedometer and tachometer arrows must be able to change the backlight. Carrying out such an operation will require removing the old paint from the arrow. In order for the paint to be easily removed, you must first remove it from the surface with a stationery knife, and then go over the surface with acetone or industrial alcohol. When the arrow is clean of paint, you can paint it with white nail polish or something else. The main thing in this process is that the arrow is exactly white, since only white color can convey the entire range of LEDs.

If you have installed multi-color LED lighting on the dashboard of your VAZ car, you need to install a color switch to be able to select the color of the dashboard lighting. It is recommended to install the switch in the lower right corner of the dashboard. When all the work has already been done, you can begin the final assembly of the finished panel.

The first step is to start by installing the underlay. We apply a layer of sealant to the back side of the substrate so that it adheres firmly to the base. Next, we install the instrument arrows in their places and cover the structure with protective glass.

One of the indicators of a laptop’s ergonomics is the backlighting of its keyboard. This function greatly simplifies working with the device both at night and during the day in low light levels. But some users forget about the presence of such a useful option or simply do not know how to use it.

How to turn on the keyboard backlight on laptops from different manufacturers? In search of an answer, we will consider all possible options.

Turn on the keyboard backlight

Before you try to activate the keyboard backlight, you need to know for sure that this function is present on your laptop model. And if you don’t want to look for technical specifications and re-read the user manual, then you should take a closer look at the special symbols printed on the function keys F1 - F12. Typically, the keyboard backlight icon looks like this and is located on the F4 button.

After finding the symbol you are looking for, you must simultaneously press the Fn+F4 combination. At the same moment, all the keys on the keyboard will begin to light up. If pressing Fn+F4 did not give a positive result, then you can search for the backlight by alternately pressing Fn and other function buttons. It is worth keeping in mind that during a random search for the desired combination, other functions will be activated, the operation of which can be disabled by pressing the previous combination again.

In some models, the keyboard backlight option is assigned to the Fn + “space” key combination, for example, in the Lenovo Z500 model. Or it is placed in the form of a separate button located above the keyboard (MSI GE60, MSI GE70).
In addition, in many modern laptops you can not only turn the backlight on and off, but also control the brightness of the LEDs. For example, the Asus FX series gives the user the opportunity to independently select one of three brightness modes. Here, the brightness is increased by pressing the Fn+F4 keys, and the brightness is decreased by pressing the Fn+F3 keys. At the same time, a sign appears on the screen indicating the current brightness level.
Unfortunately, users are not always able to turn on the button backlight in the standard way. This problem especially often occurs after reinstalling the OS, as a result of which the laptop lacks the appropriate driver. To solve the problem, you need to find the backlight driver on the manufacturer’s official website, download it and install it on your laptop.

Shutdown

When the need for backlighting disappears, it can be turned off. But, just like with turning on, there is no single standard shutdown button. All models implement this function differently, for example:

  • disabling is done using the same combination of buttons as turning on (Fn+F4, Fn+Space);
  • to turn it off, use the function button located next to the power button;
  • The backlight turns off in several stages by repeatedly pressing Fn and the function key with the keyboard icon.

How to change the keyboard backlight color?

Today, most laptop manufacturers assemble keyboard backlighting using single-color LEDs, as a result of which the user cannot change its color. However, there are also models in which the backlight is based on RGB LEDs. For example, Asus uses multicolor LEDs in its new laptops, the operation of which can be controlled using the patented Asus Aura software. Owners of such devices can change the color and brightness of LED indicators at their discretion, choosing a background that is pleasing to the eye.

In addition to Asus Aura, there is a universal Steel Series Engine program that is compatible with all laptop models. With its help, you can set the color of the LEDs, as well as use other features of the multifunctional menu.

If the computer keyboard has a single-color backlight, which does not help, but on the contrary, irritates the eyes, then you can modify it yourself in one of two ways. In the first case, you need to disassemble the keyboard, remove the backlight board and determine the type of LEDs installed on it. After this, they can be replaced with LEDs of the same size, but of a different color.

The second option involves disassembling the keyboard and sticking stickers made of translucent paper (yellow, green, blue) onto the backlight board. After assembly, the keys will glow with orange, azure and violet light, which will have to pass through a paper filter.

For a laptop that has never had a backlight, you can make an external miniature USB lamp with bright LEDs with your own hands. Or buy a ready-made USB LED backlight for your keyboard via the Internet.

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