Urbino: the ideal city of the Renaissance and the birthplace of Raphael Santi. Sights of Urbino: what to see in the birthplace of Raphael in Italy Urbino Italy
By clicking anywhere on our site or clicking “Accept”, you agree to the use of cookies and other technologies for the processing of personal data. You can change your privacy settings. Cookies are used by us and our trusted partners to analyze, improve and personalize your user experience on the site. These cookies are also used to target advertising that you see both on our site and on other platforms.The trip to Urbino was a real surprise. Waking up in the morning on that October day, I had absolutely no idea that by the evening I would find myself in the ancient Italian city where the Renaissance genius Raphael Santi was born.
Such spontaneous trips are always good for their very vivid impressions. When you don’t know what exactly you’ll see, you manage to feel the spirit of the city, even if you’re only there for a couple of hours.
The run around Urbino (no other name) began at the main gate of the city, where the buses stop. As in most ancient cities of Italy, public transport does not go along such streets.
Outside the gates begins the very Italy that I love so much (may the great city of Rome and other Italian big cities forgive me).
Urbino's main square, Republic Square, is quite small. The square is located in the very center of the city, from it the streets rise up the 2 hills on which the city is located.
A fountain, a pair of cooing pigeons, a small cafe near the city administration building, which has been such for who knows how many centuries - such squares are very similar in different cities, and at the same time very different.
Urbino's main cathedral (Duomo) is dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The cathedral was built in 1062. In the 15th century, the cathedral was completely rebuilt, and in the 18th century, after a strong earthquake, it acquired the neoclassical appearance that we see.
They are not allowed to film inside the cathedral; I did not violate the ban. The interior in a classic style with snow-white columns leaves a feeling of purity and sublimity. But there is absolutely no feeling of antiquity in the cathedral, alas. In general, this very beautiful cathedral somehow does not quite fit in with the general appearance of Urbino. They seem to be from different times.
There are several statues near the cathedral. One of them is the statue of John Chrysostom.
The 14th century Church of San Francesco with a high bell tower, located on the main square, fits more harmoniously into the architecture of the ancient city. The ancient temple is often called the pantheon of Urbino, since many notable people of the city were buried here at different times.
There are many interesting buildings in Urbino, but everyone first of all wants to see the house where Raphael was born and spent his childhood and youth.
On the ground floor of Raphael's house today there is a souvenir shop. Unfortunately, there was absolutely no time to inspect the house.
Rafael Street goes up very steeply, but this does not bother local car enthusiasts and motorcyclists at all.
Climbing up the street, I found myself in a small square where a monument to Raphael was erected.
A few tourists took pictures with the monument in all kinds and outfits. Fortunately, there were really few tourists that day, so we managed to choose moments and take a photo of the almost deserted square.
On the alley in the park there are busts of other artists who lived in Urbino, including Raphael’s father, Giovanni Santi.
The square is considered an observation deck, but that day a thick fog shrouded the surrounding area, so it was not possible to photograph anything interesting. There is an Albornoz fortress in the city, you can go up to it from the square.
Urbino is definitely on the list of cities that I would like to return to in order to finish seeing what I didn’t have time to do.
The tangle of streets of Urbino is a paradise for people like me, lovers of antiquity. All these medieval houses are inhabited, but the residents manage to successfully mask the signs of modern technology in the form of air conditioners and satellite dishes.
On a foggy autumn day in Urbino, the feeling of being in another time was especially strong. How did people live in this city at that time? A difficult question... It was cold in these houses, and there were no amenities with which we were spoiled. The Holy Inquisition with its list of prohibitions and constant epidemics did not allow us to live in peace. Personally, I wouldn’t want to live at that time...
In such cities you can wander for hours, constantly bumping into some cozy corners and unusual fragments. And Raphael walked along these streets...
It’s just that there are always not enough hours. If you set aside at least an hour of your life to see all such cities in Italy, you would have to live for 500 years, no less.
On the streets there were cute little pastry shops traditional for Italy. Even if I'm in a hurry, I always have time to get there.
Urbino also pleased us with a sufficient number of gelaterias with an excellent selection of Italian ice cream.
In general, the city of Urbino is not disfigured by a large number of shops and restaurants. In this town they are somehow harmoniously woven into the overall architecture and do not irritate the eyes.
The very small city of Urbino has a permanent population of about 10,000 people, while there are about 15,000 students studying at the local university, famous primarily for its Faculty of Botany.
There were few students on the streets on Saturday. In general, I really liked Urbino for its silence and lack of crowds.
Palazzo Ducale - the Duke's palace in Urbino is more like a fortress.
No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t fit the Palace into the frame with any tricks. The palace is absolutely huge. Carriages could enter the building along one of the towers.
The palace today houses the National Gallery of Marche, in which, unfortunately, only one painting by Raphael remains. But the exhibition is worthy of being seen not while running. I will return to Urbino!
The last shot from the window of a departing bus onto the fortress wall with towers surrounding Urbino. I thought, looking at these walls, that we are in vain complaining about the lack of security in our time. In the Middle Ages, their life was much more unsafe...
Since history lessons, I have been strongly associated with the “City of the Sun” by Tommaso Companella. But considering that his ideal was a society where women (note again women, not men) were shared, and children, after the first months of breastfeeding, were transferred to public custody, while being completely separated from their parents. When a woman was given the death penalty for wearing painted lips and high heels, and all residents of the city had to carry out the sentence (torn into small pieces or something), just as Pavlov’s dog began to salivate for food, so did I for the phrase “ideal.” city" an unconditional, but opposite to the dog's, arose - a gag reflex.
Imagine my surprise when I learned that the ideal city had been built. Fortunately, this happened 150 years before Companella’s notorious “utopian thriller” was written, which precluded the legitimization in it of the outrages described by the writer, who was also, for a moment, a priest.
The city was built by soldiers. No, he was certainly not an ordinary infantryman or archer. He was also a count, and then became a duke, but despite his titles, he always remained a military man - a condottiere. The Duke of Urbino - Federigo da Montefeltro, the illegitimate son of Guidantonio - the ruler of Urbino, but not yet a duke, inherited his father's possessions only after the death of his half-brother, the legitimate son - Oddantonio. For most of his life as a legitimate ruler, he paid off the debts that his half-brother incurred in just one year of his reign.
A small digression is financial. Once, either the Venetians or the Florentines offered Montefeltro compensation in the amount of 80 thousand ducats for non-participation in the battle, a penalty, so to speak. While the annual income of the Medici Bank at that time was only 20 thousand ducats per year. This is so that the size of the condottiere’s “salaries” is clear to you. And it’s also clear how much money they could use to build castles and cities like Urbino.
15
This man, with the profile of the extinct Australian dodo bird, managed to serve the Milanese, the Florentines, the Neapolitans, and the Pope. The institution of condottieri is very often mistaken for a kind of pack of robbers, ready to fight even their motherland for money. But by and large, these were top managers of military affairs. As they say, “nothing personal, just business.” There were quite a few scoundrels among them, given their field of activity, but there were also decent people.
7
The camel is a modern composition in front of the Palazzo Ducale in Urbino. And the portrait of Federigo and his son Guidobaldo from the Marco gallery, located in the palazzo. Artist Pedro Berruguete (1476).
Federigo was one of those decent ones. His army was always loyal to him. He took care of the families of dead soldiers, giving dowries to his daughters who were left orphans. During periods when he was not at war, he did not sit behind high fences, simply walking around the city without security. He collected handwritten books, was a philanthropist, and was even given the title “Light of Italy.” And he also built a city - his ideal city - the city of Urbino.
1 of 2
When I went to Italy this time, having already become a little more proficient in using my camera, I was just all over the place and asked for the weather to be sent to me with clouds (but without rain, of course), in which the views would be very picturesque. And yet, in Urbino, the city that I wanted to see most of all on this voyage of mine, the clouds in the sky were floating very colorful.
1 of 2
Having transferred from the train to the bus in Pesaro, we drove towards Urbino. (The ticket cost 3.70 euros. It is better to take it both ways at once. They will also give you the schedule there.). The bus turned out to be not just any bus, but a two-story one, with a panoramic window on the second floor. Besides me, there were about 5 other people on the bus, and at the top, where I refused to climb, there was only one guy sitting. Apparently he knew this road like his 5 fingers and he was just reading a book. I widened my eyes, took the camera out of my bag and got ready. But, as often happens, while you are gaping at some beautiful view outside the window, the bus has already carried you a hundred meters away from it and it was not possible to shoot anything more or less decent. But I saw how cycling teams train before the Giro de Italia. And I saw the Astana team in sky blue suits, like old ladies’ underwear.
9
Filmed from a bus window.
We drove not long, not short, but about 40 minutes. At the approach to Urbino, the road twisted like a snake and the city, standing on two hills: Metauro and Foglia, appeared and disappeared like a desert mirage. It is to these hills that Urbino owes its name, translated as “Double City” - “Urbe Bina”.
15
Filmed from a bus window.
The bus arrives at the Volbona gate at Borgo Mercatale.
From them, a very recognizable, typically Italian street, Via G. Mazzini, goes up quite steeply, very similar to Pignolio Street, for example, in Lower Bergamo.
9
The street opens onto Republic Square, which, a republic in the sense, sounds almost the same in all European languages, but the squares named after it look different. Urbinskaya looks like this.
5
Republic Square with a non-working fountain and the 16th century portal of the Church of St. Francis.
And now I’ll tell you where I walked so briskly, without even stopping on the way to Raphael’s house-museum, located on the street named after him. The story about Raphael will be below. And I keep crawling and crawling up Raphael’s street and crawling to the square with the monument to him - Raphael.
12
Monument to Raphael 1897.
The monument was erected by grateful descendants at the very end of the 20th century. And these little ones, presumably, are the descendants themselves. True, for some reason the descendants of these descendants beat almost all the peeps to the cherubs. For memory or something?
10
Detail of the monument to Raphael.
Around the monument to Raphael there are busts of famous Urbino residents. There is a bust of Pope Raphael Giovanni and Bramante, a native of Urbino. The city also named a street after Bramante. Only it is shorter and goes to the right from Raphael Street, if you stand facing the monument. Remember this street, it will be very useful to us at the end of the walk. Bramante looks a lot like a baboon, which is what I immediately thought of when I saw his bust. And, gaping a little, immediately, after this thought, she tripped over Bramant’s pedestal. Well, eyewitnesses said that the architect had a quarrelsome and quarrelsome character.
The day was Saturday. On the square in front of the monument, a mobile market set up tents with simple belongings. Greenfinch, pajamas, all sorts of small things. There are no visitors, locals come and buy. Policemen scurry between the aisles and shoppers. So I turned to one of them with a question:
“And how, my dear friend, Italian policeman, can I find an extraordinary beautiful view of the Palazzo Ducale?” - and the policeman answered me:
- Go there, beautiful maiden signora!
And he showed me the direction with his pen. And now I will describe this direction to you in words. There was nothing indecent in his gesture and, of course, there will be nothing indecent in my words.
Stand with your back to the monument, walk a few steps forward, as if returning along the street. Raphael. You will see on the corner, on the right, the small church degli Scalzi, the street Via dei Maceri goes beyond it (the name of the street on the map is written so small that I can only vouch for the first 4 letters, I don’t see the last two clearly, but it seems like they are). Walk down a few tens of meters, not forgetting to look at the amazing views opening around every turn,
28
and go to the Albornoz fortress. And there you will have happiness, just as it was given to me.
17
To say that this view is breathtaking is to say nothing. The house that Federigo built is like a huge anthill. But in this chaos of bricks, harmony and perspective are clearly visible, the foundations of which were developed by Piero della Francesca right here, at the palace of the Duke of Urbino.
13
Construction of the palace began in the mid-15th century. The originality of the composition of the complex in Urbino is due to the dual purpose of the palace, which was supposed to simultaneously serve as a fortified princely residence, and, at the same time, a luxurious palace of a humanist and philanthropist. The first architect of the building was the Florentine Maso di Bartolomeo, who created the plan for the new palace.
Those who are interested can read about the construction of the palace, which lasted almost 100 years; there are quite a few articles on this topic. And the one who sees this miracle with his own eyes will completely forget all the numbers, names and dates and will just watch. And then he starts taking pictures, without noticing anything around.
So, without noticing anything, for the first time in my entire life, I stumbled with a suede boot into a fresh, gently yellow, large, dog-like pile. Right under this tree.
12
It must be said that the Italians do not bother collecting “dog surprises,” but the wipers there work well and the streets look quite decent. Here there was not a street, but a meadow on which the culprits of potential groups frolicked. This couple rushed after each other so delightfully that looking at them was no less a pleasure than looking at the palazzo.
1 of 2
I spent an hour and a half capturing the palace for all types of memory, both photographic and my personal. But at the same time I kept thinking how I could climb over the fence that fences the construction site separating the Albornoz fortress from the palazzo. Construction, by the way, has been going on for several years, judging by photographs taken by other citizens in other years. And I did find a hole. And since it was a day off, no one said a rude word to me. But I didn’t discover anything new there for myself. I clicked a couple more times for order, sighed that I had to leave like this, but I didn’t want to, but I had to!
8
It was right at these very gates that I climbed onto this construction site for decades. And under the wing of this “eagle” there was a marvelous web with a spider. But my camera turned out to be insensitive to the spider’s beauty.
Oh, I completely forgot! And the views of the surrounding area. Dazzling views! Admire it.
1 of 3
It was time to start exploring the city, because you won’t be satisfied with just the view. Palazzo Ducale winked at me at every turn of the narrow, crooked streets of Urbino.
15
Oratorio San Giovanni.
Not only were the streets crooked and narrow, but they also rise and fall. And I walked to Raphael’s house, trying not to get lost in these red brick intricacies. And, of course, I got lost. Along the way there were restaurants, literally lost in tiny alleys. How do people find them? And there are very few people there. And suddenly I came across a church. There is a poster of “Oratorio San Giovanni” hanging on it. Moreover, the area in front of this oratory is deserted and it is not known whether it is open or not. And, lo and behold, people came out from there.
11
Oratorio San Giovanni and fresco from this church.
- Why a miracle? - you ask,
“But because if people hadn’t left there, I wouldn’t have pulled the door handle and wouldn’t have gone inside.” And I would have lost a lot. Sooo much. Behind the inconspicuous early twentieth century façade, rebuilt by Diomedes Catalucci, lies an absolute treasure.
The tiny church, built in 1365 and painted by the brothers Lorenzo and Jacopo Salimbeni in the 15th century, once served as a refuge for pilgrims and the sick. It's like a brocade glove turned inside out. All her beauty is hidden inside.
The colors are so bright as if they were applied yesterday. It is clear that the restorers did a great job, but the feeling that the creators of the frescoes stepped out for a minute, having just completed their work, simply hovers in the air of this box, which has painted interior walls.
The pleasure of seeing this is not free. Ticket - 2.50 euros. But what is money when this unexpected beauty is simply stunning. And you stand amazed and stunned by the miracle you have seen. If so, don't miss it. Try to find this church in the web of Urbino streets.
To Raphael.
The fact that Raphael Santi was born in Urbino is clear even based on the version of one of his names - Raphael of Urbino (1483-1520). Rafa's dad served as an artist at the court of Federigo, and if they say that “nature rests on children,” then in this case she rested on dad, apparently gaining strength to give birth to such a miracle as Raphael. Having lost his tenderly loving mother at the age of 8, and his father at 11, at 16 he left to study painting with Perugino, who lived in the city of Perugia!
13
Sculpture of young Raphael from the house-museum in Urbino. I don’t remember the author, and I forgot to take a photo of the sign.
I read somewhere that the Santi family lived in unbearably crowded conditions. I don’t know what the writer of these lines’ concept of cramped space is, but by my Moscow-Israeli standards, the house was quite decent, spacious and 3 floors high. Giovanni acquired it in 1460, when he entered the service of Federigo. To make it easier for you to find it, although it is located practically on the corner of the Republic Square and Rafael Street, on the left side, I will give you a landmark to help you - the former Ospetare della Misercordia hospital.
4
Portico of the former Ospetale della Misercordia hospital and Giovanni Santi's painting "Saint Sebastian", kept in the Raphael House Museum.
I rarely visit memorial museums, knowing that as a rule, little remains of the celebrity who lived there. But in this case, for 6 centuries, nothing at all. Maybe just the walls. In principle, I was not mistaken in my judgment. The museum (Entrance costs 3 euros. I bought a ticket at the postcard kiosk to the right of the entrance already in the museum lobby) is full of all sorts of things: a reconstruction of Raphael’s skull, copies of his portraits and self-portraits, a couple of my father’s works, some frivolous-sadistic ceramics, yes, by and large account and that's it. But I had a specific goal there - the Madonna, which, according to some sources, was painted on damp plaster by young Raphael, and according to the latest data - this is the work of his father.
Arguing with expert experts is a dead end, but for me, this is Raphael’s work. And in the museum itself, next to the fresco, it is written that this is his work. Now I’ll show you a couple of works by Papa Giovanni from the Marche Gallery, which is located in the Palazzo Ducale. Here they are.
5
Madonnas by Giovanni Santi from the Marche Gallery.
Now look at the fresco of the Madonna from Raphael's house.
Compare it with his earlier, 1502 Madonna Conestabile.
The background of this “Madonna”, kept in the Hermitage and miraculously not sold during Soviet times, is the views of Urbino. In my opinion, the fresco and “Madonna Conestabile” are closer both compositionally and in mood. But I won’t say this with foam at the mouth. Giovanni adored his wife, and who knows, maybe in a fit of this feeling he created his most sublime work, radiating with light and love. You are not allowed to take photographs in the museum. But either because of Saturday, or for some other reason, there were no guards in the rooms, and no visitors except me. Therefore, I took photographs almost without hiding.
The fact that the residents of Urbino use the image of the artist for selfish purposes is a no brainer. They are no worse than the Salzburgers, who eat and drink Mozart, and name restaurants and hotels after him. I accidentally discovered a hotel with the name of the artist,
15
but there is no restaurant. But I came across a restaurant called Fornarina, on via G. Mazzini. The restaurant was closed early in the day and I didn’t understand whether there were girls dressed so frivolously serving food or what other services they provided? Well, you have to think about hanging such a sign. Moreover, Raphael wrote to Fornarin in a much more hidden form.
2
Restaurant on Via G. Mazzini.
And I walked along Via Vittorio Veneto, which runs from the other side of the Republic Square, to the Urbino Duomo and the Palazzo Ducale, where the Marche Gallery is located.
5
Via Vittorio Veneto with a column on which St. George kills the poor serpent again!
The Duomo, with its white, neoclassical facade, stood out very much from the general, sandy palette, but I cannot say that it caused rejection. Maybe just in contrast with the brick Palazzo Ducale and the Gothic Church of St. Domenic, it didn’t look bad at all. Another thing is how many such facades I have seen.
1 of 2
Urbino Duomo on Piazza Federigo. The neoclassical façade of the Duomo, made of furlian stone, is decorated with five statues on the pediment, three statues representing Christian virtues (Faith, Hope and Charity), on the roof slopes there are statues of St. Augustine (left) and St. John Chrysostom (right). Two more statues (the patron saint of the city, Saint Crescentin and Blessed Mainardo) are placed on the sides of the main staircase. Under the pediment there is an inscription with words of gratitude to the University of Urbino, which financed the construction of the roof.
Therefore, after dropping into the Duomo for a minute, I headed to the Marche Gallery, which is located in Federigo’s house.
Palazzo Ducale and the Marche Gallery nestled there.
7
The front courtyard of the Palazzo Ducale (“Cortile dOnore”, “courtyard of glory”)
A huge man was rushing between the columns and screaming something inarticulately.
“Crazy,” I thought, hiding behind a column. Among the jumble of his words, I singled out a couple of Russian words.
- Russian crazy. Stendhal’s disease, I thought again, pressing myself closer into the column. And then, along the wall, along the wall, trying not to meet the man’s eyes, she went to inspect the giant tiles that had previously decorated the Duke’s palace.
3
And then again the same guy burst into this quiet and peaceful pastoral of mine, but this time accompanied by two ladies who looked exactly like the women described by the poet Nekrasov. Here are approximately articles like this Madonna.
8
Painting from the collection of the Marche gallery of the 15th century. I don't remember the artist.
How the peasant complained and lamented that these unscrupulous women abandoned him and did not wait, and he was running around looking for them for an hour. Despite the fact that he yelled in accordance with his height and weight, I even felt sorry for him in a maternal way. So big and so lost. And his wife stroked his head and quietly consoled him.
On this happy note, when “the seeker shall find,” I paid 5 euros and went to look at the exhibition. Although 5 euros is not a lot of money, the meeting was not even worth it. When the Federigo family was interrupted, at the beginning of the 16th century, Urbino came into the possession of the della Rovere family, who began plundering the treasures of the palace. And already in 1626, when Pope Urban VIII finally took control of Urbino, the trickle turned into a full-flowing river. And Napoleonic troops raked everything clean.
They even scraped off everything they could from the walls. True, there are still several very interesting exhibits there. For example, Raphael’s painting “La Muta” - The Mute, in which he either imitates Leonard’s Mona Lisa or argues with Da Vinci. But I really like her. By the way, the picture appeared there quite recently. Only at the beginning of this century. It was transferred from the Uffizzi Gallery. I think to restore at least some justice. There is also a small picture from Raphael's - St. Katerina.
7
"La Muta" - Mute. Painting by Raphael Santi from the Marche collection, given to her by the Uffizi Gallery.
5
"The Flagellation of Christ."
and secondly, the “Senigalese Madonna”, which, despite the rather exotic faces of the Mother of God herself, the baby Savior and the rest of the characters, has nothing to do with the state in North Africa-Senegal. And it refers to the town of Senigaglia, which Federigo de Montefeltro gave to his daughter as a dowry, as well as a painting. Knowledgeable people say that Della Francesca imitated Byzantine icons here.
3
"Senigalese Madonna".
These are perhaps the most vivid impressions of the Marche Gallery. I was terribly cold there. For the first time in more than 2 decades, I remembered what it was like when you can’t feel your toes. I went out into the fresh air. The sun was hot.
One of the guidebooks begins its description of Urbino with these words: “...This city is built on the top of a mountain and resembles an eagle’s nest.” We fell for this bait, and on the penultimate day of our trip we decided to stop by here.
The center of Urbino turned out to be a nice little ancient fortified city.
Despite the fact that the city is a historical landmark, its charming streets and alleys of varying degrees of width and steepness do not leave the feeling of museum pieces. 
The same charming squares and platforms (piazzas and piazzales))) 
On one of the squares, as usual, there is a local duomo - the main city cathedral. 
And in the next photo - the entrance to the courtyard of the existing post office 
A few more houses and their parts: 
In general, healthy, cute and lively. And it is alive, perhaps because, despite its antiquity, Urbino is a very young city: the indigenous population is estimated at 15.5 thousand people, and at the same time up to 20,000 students study here.
One of the local buses that drive right through the historical center and transport locals, students and tourists: 
And the next photo shows a view of the new, non-historical part of the city: 
Photos taken on April 28, 2011.
The final photo of this post proves that the city is built on top of a mountain: 
The most beautiful photos of other posts - follow the link to the album on Facebook.
- for the announcement of other reports about our trip to Italy.
Well, now - a word to the guide.
Pesaro and Urbino
Pesaro and Urbino are the northernmost province of the Marche region, a strategic crossroads of tourism between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennines, between the regions of Romagna, Tuscany and Umbria, a happy unity of the attractive beauty of central Italy. A palette of colors from the green of the forests to the blue of the sky has created a harmonious ensemble of nature, in which yellow beaches alternate with green hills approaching the coast, where ancient towns and castles are hidden. On this happy land, history and nature are inextricably intertwined. To understand this, it is enough to move away from the sea, to where Urbino still retains the incredible atmosphere of an ideal city of the Italian Renaissance. The medieval landscape of Montefeltro stretches around the city. And behind it rises the Apennine mountain range with the peaks of Carpegna, Nerone and Catria and interspersed with the mountain valleys of Marecchia, Conca, Foglia, Metauro and Cesano.
The alternation of natural beauties, memorable places, hidden treasures of art is amazing: untouched citadels, ruins on inaccessible cliffs, sanctuaries and parish churches among open pastures or on the edges of forests, palaces of princes and solemn ducal courts. The sea, the greenery of the hills, the silence and peaks of the mountains, treasures of art, folk traditions, delicious, varied and inexhaustible cuisine and wines make the “Beautiful Province” of the cities of Pesaro and Urbino a unique place in the kaleidoscope of other Italian provinces.
Two high capes, San Bartolo and Ardizio, adorn the Adriatic Sea. Here you can stay on calm and quiet beaches or head to the busier sandy coastline, stretching for 40 km from Gabicce to Marotta. To the north, towards the Romagna region, is the most popular seaside town of Gabicce Mare. In the administrative center of the province in the city of Pesaro, at the mouth of the Foglia River, between the San Bartolo Nature Reserve and Cape Ardizio, along almost eight kilometers of fine sand coastline, resort life flows relaxingly, an ideal place for a family holiday and for those who want to get away from the noise and mass tourism . Fano has two beaches: the sandy Lido and the long pebble beach of Sassonia, which stretches to the mouth of the Metauro River. And between them is a picturesque fishing port, densely crowded with boats and smelling deliciously of fried fish and fish soup. And finally, located to the south, the hospitable resorts of Torrette and Marotta complete the panorama of the sea coast of Pesaro and Urbino, rich in tourist structures and residential complexes that provide the opportunity to take healthy sun and sea baths, engage in a variety of sports from swimming and sailing to windsurfing and beach volleyball, and where children can safely indulge in their summer fun. And after the sea? The choice is great among a wide variety of entertainment, small and large cultural and artistic events, and countless commercial opportunities.
Good to know
The sea, hills, mountains and mild climate make the lands of Pesaro and Urbino a precious treasure chest of culinary art. Perhaps the most striking example of this is the truffle, widely represented at the fairs held in Sant'Agata Feltria, Sant'Angdelo in Vado and Acualanha, which prides itself on the primacy of the truffle capital throughout the year. Where there is a truffle, there are other mushrooms: San Sisto, at the foot of Mount Carpegna, hosts a regional mycological fair, where every autumn in the town square, as in Piobbico, you can see a variety of mushroom delicacies.
Talamello produces Ambergris cheese, famous for ripening in pits underground. And not only this, there are also other varieties of pit-ripened sheep's cheese in Sant'Agata Feltria, Cartoceto and Acualanha. Another cheese for lovers of refined tastes, known since ancient times, is caciotta from Urbino.
Montefeltro is famous for the very tasty meat of the Marche cow breed, called Marchigiana, which is considered one of the best in the country. Another treasure of the province is olive oil from olives grown mainly in the Cartoceto area.
Local wines also have high merits: Bianchello del Metauro and Sangiovese from the hills of Pesaro, marked with the high quality mark “doc”; Vernacolum (vernaccia) from Pergola and black Pinot from San Bartolo, Wisner cherry wine from Pergola and raisin wine from Sant'Angelo in Vado or from the Barchi area. White wine Bianchello goes well with coastal fish dishes such as grilled fish platter and the delicious brodetto fish soup made from fish caught in the Adriatic, the different and exclusive recipes of which are famous in Gabicce Mare, Pesaro and Fano. Also worthy of mention is the tasting of “blue fish” in Fano, which is very tasty prepared according to the “a scottadito” recipe.
Small sausage shops produce a variety of sausages, and the most exquisite is considered to be the dried ham from Carpegna, which is in great demand due to its high quality and small quantity produced. These and many other products inspire the delicious and rich local cuisine. Pesaro, for example, is proud of its cappelletti in broth and casserole, Urbino - pork chops and lumachelle duchess pasta, Fano - cured sausages and marinated olives, Borgopace - game, Apecchio - sausages, Cagli - snails in a special sauce, Cantiano - cherries, Fossombrone and other nearby towns - roasted pig, Fratterosa - guinea fowl in pots, San Costanzo - corn porridge, San Leo - sheep cheeses and tortelli pasta, Urbania - flatbread, Novilara - puff bread, Mombaroccio - honey, Monteciccardo - rabbit in gravy, And all this is just a small example of the fact that this province is rightfully considered the birthplace of gluttony.
Greenery of nature
The sea blue of the coastal strip is contrasted by the sea of green of the interior, swaying in the wide valleys and on the gentle hills up to the Apennine slopes. Particularly noteworthy in the charm of the landscape are the protected areas of the Park of San Bartolo and the Park of Sasso Simone and Simoncello, the Gorge del Furlo, the Tecchie forest, groves and passes over the peaks of Carpegna, Catria and Nerone.
In the calm green sea lie numerous hotels and rural tourist hotels where you can comfortably stay, eat delicious food and exercise (horse riding, mountain biking, trekking, kayaking), and where there are so many opportunities to spend an alternative holiday visiting fairy-tale towns full of history palaces, mountain fortresses and castles. Among many attractive places, on the top of a hill that falls into the sea, lies the untouched citadel of the city of Gradara with its charming castle, in which the romantic love of Paolo and Francesca is forever captured. Not far away, over the valleys of the Metauro and Cesano rivers, the Mondavio fortress rises arrogantly; further from the sea in the valley of the Foglia River, reflected in the mirror of Lake Mercatale, rises the animal-like cliff of Sassocorvaro; in Piandimeleto is the Castle of the Counts of Oliva, and in Carpegna rises the monumental Palazzo of the Princes. There are still fortifications in Montecherignon and Sant’Agata Feltria, and in the Fortress of San Leo, which falls steeply into the void, the legend of Count Cagliostro still lives on. Following the course of the Metauro River, in Fossombrone you can visit the Ducal Courts, the bridge and medieval tower of Fermignano, the Ducal Palace and the architectural ensemble in Urbania, the Palace and the Municipal Tower in Sant'Angelo in Vado. Up the Candigliano River, overlooking the mountain village of Piobbico, rises the Castle of the Brancaleone family. Lonely as an eagle, the Frontone fortress looks down on the town below Mount Catria.
Trades
Artistic crafts are proud of their ancient traditions throughout the province. The most famous production since the Renaissance is certainly considered to be the production of ceramics. Particularly famous were the ceramic products of the town of Casteldurante, present-day Urbania, where already in the first half of the 16th century, famous majolica masters fired love cups, bowls, fruit vases, dishes with paintings of historical subjects, and pharmaceutical vessels on the high flame of furnaces. This tradition can still boast an excellent guild of craftsmen, not only in Urbania, but also in Sant’Angelo in Vado and especially in Pesaro, where in the first decade of the last century it achieved international fame. Very typical is the production of “shards” (ware made from baked clay) in the town of Fratterosa, where dishes that were once common in traditional peasant houses are made. The hand-made pipe industry in Pesaro and Cagli is growing in popularity. Since time immemorial, hand-made carpets have been famous in Piobbico and somewhat later in Novilara and other settlements. The bamboo and reed products produced in Sant’Ippolito, as well as leather products from Casinin, are known abroad.
Also in Sant’Ippolito, artistic stone processing is known, reproducing traditional figures and motifs of the ancient art of stone carvers. The craft of goldsmiths is very modern and of high quality, especially in Fano.
Arts and culture
Urbino, a city declared a heritage of humanity by UNESCO and a famous stop on the itineraries of art tourism, is a must-visit to experience the very essence of our civilization. The Ducal Palace, owned by Federico da Montefeltro, stands here as a symbol of the Renaissance. The historical part of the city is home to churches, palazzos and monuments. The city's university and special "spirit of culture" give this small city the aura of an important center of the period of true Humanism.
In general, the province has a rich artistic heritage of great interest. It includes: in Pesaro - Municipal Museums, the Art Gallery and the Majolica Museum; Archaeological Museum of Oliveriano, Imperial Villa on Mount San Bartolo and Villa Caprile; in Urbino - National Gallery of the Marche region, building. in which Raphael was born, frescoes of the Oratorio San Giovanni from the 15th century, “Presepio” (an allegorical depiction of the scene of the birth of Christ and the adoration of the Magi) of the Oratorio San Giuseppe; in Fano - Courtyard of Signori Malatesta, Art Gallery and Archaeological Museum. Arch of Emperor Augustus and the ruins of an ancient Roman wall, Malatesta family crypt; in Fossombrone - Cesarini Collection of Contemporary Paintings; in Pergola - Museum of Gilded Bronze Figures and Art Gallery; in Urbania - the Ducal Palace, Historical Library, Museum and Art Gallery; in Pennabilli - Diocesan Museum; in Apecchio - Fossil Museum; in Cagli - the Church of St. Domenic with frescoes by Father Raphael Giovanni Santi; in Maiolo - in the church of Santa Maria d'Antico Madonna delle Grazie by the hands of Luca della Robbia.
Among the monuments and religious places, in addition to the Romanesque cathedrals of Pesaro and Fano, of particular interest are the Abbey of San Vincenzo in the Furlo Gorge, the Abbey of Lamoli di Borgo Pace, the Abbey of St. Tommaso in the Foglia Valley near Pesaro, the Church of St. Agostino in Cantiano, the parish church and the Cathedral of San Leo, the Church of San Sisto in Carpegna, the Church of San Cassiano in Macerata Feltria, the Church of Ponte Messa in Pennabilli. There is an inexhaustible flow of pilgrims, inspired not only by faith, to the thousand-year-old Hermitage near Fonte Avellana at the foot of Mount Catria, founded by San Pierdamiani and which once sheltered the great poet Dante. The province's places of religious worship date back centuries; in Mombaroccio, the Franciscan Sanctuary of Beato Sante, the monastery of the Madonna del Faggio in Carpegna, the image of the weeping Madonna in Pennabilli, the Crucifixion in the manner of Giotto in Talamello, the temple of the Madonna del Sasso in the Pergola, the church of the Madonna of Pelingo in Acualanya, the Sanctuary of the Crucifixion in Casteldimezo, the Reposed Christ in the Oratorio della Grotta in Urbino, Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie in Pesaro, Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ponte Metauro in Fano.
Urbino, despite its modest scale, is one of the most picturesque, multifaceted and generally interesting cities in Italy. With deep historical roots and a number of impressive achievements, the city has been and remains a significant cultural and educational center for hundreds of years. Due to Urbino alone, Italy attracts millions of tourists every year. Such interest is more than deserved, since the sights of Urbino are completely unique, and they will be discussed today.
For tourists, Urbino is attractive with its dazzlingly beautiful medieval architecture, interesting events and, of course, priceless historical monuments. Urbino is worth a visit if only to visit the house where the great Raphael himself was born.
How to get to Urbino
Getting to Urbino is not so easy. First of all, you need to fly to the nearest airport. The starting point can be, or Ancona. True, you should count on the fact that you can fly directly from Russia only to the first two. The easiest way to select the necessary tickets for convenient dates is in the form below.
Then you can get there by public transport. True, trains do not go all the way to Urbino, and the nearest transfer point is . From the train station in Pesaro to Urbino, buses 46 and CD/CS run regularly.
From Monday to Saturday buses run almost every hour, but on Sunday the number of trips is significantly less: the first bus leaves at 09:15 and runs every three hours (the last one at 20:15). Travel time will be 45-75 minutes, depending on the specific flight.
Tickets are sold at press kiosks or on the bus itself from a machine. If you are going to buy a ticket on the bus, prepare some change in advance, as the machine does not give change.
The historic center of Urbino is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
A good option is to get to Raphael’s homeland by car. You can always rent a car at the arrival airport or pre-order a transfer. The shortest route to Urbino is along the S423 motorway with a starting point in Pesaro. Keep in mind that you will most likely have to leave your car outside the old city walls upon arrival. This can be done at any of the parking lots, and from there you can get to the city center by shuttle bus or taxi.
Well, for those who are planning a vacation in Rimini, we recommend our wonderful guide Victoria, about whom Blogoitaliano. Keep in mind that this excursion destination is one of the most popular and in demand; during peak season, convenient dates may be booked. Book your excursion in advance!
Urbino Hotels
Those who are planning a trip to the city of Urbino in Italy for more than one day should take care of finding a suitable hotel in advance. There are not many hotels in Urbino. The most luxurious - 4 star categories are located in the city center. For those who want to save money, we advise you to pay attention to apartments or private villas. You can find housing that meets all your wishes using the link below.
Sights of Urbino
Needless to say, in the old town of Urbino almost every house and every building is a historical and architectural monument worthy of a UNESCO “protection” list. However, only the historical center of the city is protected by this international organization.
Borgo Mercatale Square
Most excursions start at Borgo Mercatale. This starting point was formed naturally - the square is not only picturesque in itself, but is also located next to the bus station. Here, on the square, there is an information center for tourists, where you can get a map and any information useful for tourists for free.
Raphael's House
The road through the ancient gate of Porta Valbona, and further along Via Mazzini, will lead you to the crowded Piazza della Repubblica. Here, turning left and passing the Church of San Francesco, you will reach Via Raffaello, where one of the must-see places in Urbino is located.
House-Museum of Raphael in Urbino
This is Casa Raffaello - the very house where the great Raphael Santi was born on April 6, 1483. The brilliant Italian painter spent his childhood and youth here, studying with his father Giovanni Santi, who at that time was the court painter of the Duke of Urbino.
Now Casa Raffaello is Raphael's house-museum, where paintings by Giovanni Santi are displayed; the first of Raphael's famous Madonnas, which he painted while still a youth, as well as a collection of various historical family objects from the 15th century.
Monument to Raphael and observation decks
Monument to Raphael in his homeland in Urbino
Even more amazing views await you if you walk a little further to the northwest along the fortress wall parallel to Via le Buozzi. Before reaching the fortification of Fortezza Albornoz, in the wall you can find a small gate leading to the stairs to the earthen rampart of Parco della Resistenza. It is from there that an absolutely stunning panorama opens up with all the sights of Urbino.
Ducal Palace and medieval chapels
Walking up Via Barocci you will find yourself at the medieval chapels Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista and Oratorio di San Giuseppe, famous for their fresco paintings from the 16th century. And then go to the main attraction of Urbino - the Palace of the Dukes of Urbino.
Oratorio of St. John the Baptist amazes with the beauty of its fresco paintings
Against the backdrop of a stunning architectural ensemble, the interior of the palace does not disappoint at all - magnificent frescoes, a collection of mesmerizing sculptures, an art gallery with works of the Renaissance - all this can be enjoyed by visitors to the palace by paying 4 Euro for an entrance ticket. By the way, the National Gallery of the Marche region is currently located in the Palazzo Ducale.
Palazzo Ducale is the most famous landmark of the city of Urbino
Cathedral
The Cathedral, a unique Renaissance building, is also worth a visit.
The first cathedral was built in the early Middle Ages - in 1021 - and since then it has radically changed its appearance several times. The cathedral acquired its exterior, which has survived to this day, at the turn of the 18th-19th centuries. The complex was then rebuilt by the Roman architect Giuseppe Valder after serious damage received during the 1781 earthquake.
Urbino Cathedral
Other attractions of Urbino
Also, having visited the city, you cannot pass by such attractions of Urbino as:
- National Gallery of Marche with the best Renaissance art collection in the region,
- A university known far beyond the borders of Urbino since 1506. By the way, thanks to the university, during the school season the population of Urbino almost doubles.
- Church of St. Dominic, built in the 14th century.
- Palazzo Odasi, which now houses the Civic Museum of Urbino and the House of Poetry.
Festa del Duca
Urbino is interesting not only for its sights, but also for its festivals. The most significant event of the year is the Festa del Duca. This is a colorful costume festival, the key theme of which is the reenactment of one of the most famous military victories in the history of Urbino. We are talking about the events of the 15th century, when the troops of Duke Federico da Montefeltro defeated the forces of the Duke of Milan - Francesco Sforza.
The holiday is organized every year in the second half of August. These days, numerous dance and theater performances are held in Urbino, open screenings of historical films are organized, and fairs are held in the central squares of the city. And all this with stunning visuals and authentic medieval surroundings - costumed performances, traveling musicians, music from bygone eras and a lot of other interesting things.
The scale and detail of the reconstruction of the appearance of the 15th century city is amazing. Once in Urbino on these days, you will be able to get a lot of impressions from costumed performances of tournaments and battles, and visit a tavern in not only a historical, but also a gastronomic reconstruction. Open-air restaurant areas will invite you to try a variety of dishes prepared in strict accordance with authentic recipes from the Renaissance.
Finally, the central event of the Festa del Duсa holiday is a theatrical costume performance, a reconstruction of the final battle of the troops of the two dukes, in which Federico da Montefeltro won a glorious victory, although he lost his right eye.
Photos by: Ad de Roij, Sailko, Sergio D'Afflitto, Diego Baglieri, Mattis, GueQuattro
