Assemble the system unit with your own hands. How to assemble a computer correctly using the components yourself. Deciding on the components

These instructions can help you in assembling your PC system unit yourself.

Of course, these are just general principles for assembling a computer, and more precise information in each specific case can always be found in the motherboard manual that comes with each of them.

You may ask, “Why systemic?”

Everything is very simple, it is the motherboard (system) that is a kind of skeleton on which all the other components of the computer are hung: processor, RAM, video card, hard drive, power supply, etc. are connected.

Choosing a workplace

A regular table can serve as a workspace for assembling a computer. Clean its surface from foreign objects and install it near a water pipe or at least central heating.

You will need a set of components (components) of the system unit of your future PC, which corresponds to its main purpose (home, multimedia, graphics processing, gaming, etc.).

You must decide what your computer will be like in advance and configure it accordingly according to your requirements.

The components must be compatible with each other, and the configuration must be balanced and optimized.

The basic PC package includes:

1. CPU;
2. Cooler;
3. RAM strips (one, two or more);
4. Video card (if it is not integrated into the motherboard);
5. HDD;
6. Sound and network cards (if they are not integrated into the motherboard);
7. Power supply, if it is not included in the computer case and was purchased separately.

For example, in the workplace there may be such a picture.

Prepare your tool kit

A Phillips screwdriver is the main tool that is needed during the entire process of DIY PC assembly. It is desirable that it was magnetized.

Pliers can be useful for removing various plugs from the housing.

You may also need tweezers for working with small bolts and installing switches.

Place components and tools on a clean, non-conductive surface near the assembly table.
In new cases, all fasteners, power cord, legs and plugs are located inside the case. We place the case on the mounting table and unscrew the 4 mounting screws on its side or rear wall.

After this, you need to open both side walls of your case, to do this, as a rule, you need to move them back a little, after which the side walls are freely separated from the case.

Now the computer case must be placed on its right side, when viewed from the front panel.

View from above.

Electrical safety and component protection measures

Take a long enough flexible copper wire, strip its end and attach it with a screw to any point on the body.

Thoroughly clean a small section of the water (heat) pipe from paint and rust and wrap it with a clamp made of sheet metal, preferably non-ferrous.

Attach the other end of the wire to the clamp. By grounding the case in this way, you will fulfill the main safety requirement of these installation works - protect the microelectronics from damage by static electricity that can accumulate on your body.

To remove the static charge, it is now enough to touch the grounded case with your hand.
But even in this case, you should learn and follow strict rules: do not touch the chip housings and connector contacts of printed circuit boards, take the boards only by the edges, and do not use much force when installing them in the slots.

The installer's hands must be clean and dry. There is no risk of electric shock when installing the system unit.

But for the future, you should firmly understand the rule of operation and repair: before opening the system unit, turn off its power and remove the plug from the socket.

Any work may only be carried out in a de-energized unit. To be honest, this rule is more likely to protect delicate microelectronics from “crooked hands” than vice versa.

Motherboard

The motherboard is the basis of the system unit. Get to know her in general. Examine the main connectors and their corresponding modules.

Processor socket (socket) – this socket is used to install the processor.

The processor socket and its sockets on the motherboard must match. For example, a socket 775 .

On the motherboard it looks like this.

On the processor.

There is a fan power connector nearby. The DIMM socket is used to install memory modules. It's better when there are 4 of them.

24-pin power supply cable provides connection to a standard power supply ATX.

He is the one on the right (8) in the photo below. The photo also shows all the cables coming from the power supply.

The already outdated ATA device connector allows you to connect ATA devices of the DMA type 33/66/100, and SATA – modern hard drives.

PCI-E – designed for connecting video cards with the appropriate interface.

Typically this is a PCI-Ex16 connector.

The PCI slot allows you to add expansion cards. See photo above.

Computer assembly process

Now you can start installation. And it begins with the installation of the main device - the processor - into the motherboard socket.

At this stage you need a motherboard, processor and .

The processor has a mark on the corner that should match the mark on the socket.

To install the processor, you must “open” the contact plate; to do this, you need to lift up (all the way) the lever located on the contact plate, while its upper part will move slightly, freeing the contact holes.

The processor should fall into the socket without much effort.

After installation, the contact plate should be closed by lowering the lever until it clicks.

Then you can attach the radiator with the cooler and connect it to the appropriate contacts.

Please note: before installing the fan, the contact surface between the fan and the processor must be coated with a special thermally conductive paste (usually included with the fan).

But you can also purchase separately on the radio market, for example, KPT - 8.

Installing other devices

Installation of memory modules and video cards, installation of the system board.

The RAM also has a recess slightly to the side of the middle of the bar, which should coincide with the corresponding plug in the connector.

To install RAM, the slot must be “opened” by moving the latches to the sides.

These slot latches should return to their original position after installing the module.

It is advisable to mount similar pairs of memory modules in slots of the same color in order to implement the so-called. dual-channel operating mode and get 10-15 % performance increase.

If you are building a PC with a separate video card, now is the time to insert it into the expansion slot PCI-E.

Before installation, you should remove the plug in the back wall of your case just below the slot, so that a hole is formed in the back wall for the video card connectors to come out.

Carefully align the contacts of the card with the slot, move the slot latch slightly to the side and insert the card with a little force, then release the latch.

If your card is high-power, it is powered not through the slot, but by an additional power cable. Don't forget to connect it to the connector on the system board.

The motherboard can now be installed in the case. Modern cases usually have built-in special mounts for the motherboard.

Align the mounting holes for your motherboard with the corresponding mounting locations for the case.

If there are no corresponding mounting points on the case under some of the holes for mounting the motherboard, that is, the motherboard seems to be “hanging in the air,” special plastic stops must be inserted into such holes.

After this, attach it with screws to the corresponding housing mounting points.

Now you can connect the power cable coming from the power supply; its connector is also unique, so you will not be able to reverse the polarity of the power supply.

Connecting external drives

Magnetic disks store all the PC information and the operating system that is loaded from the disk at startup. Protect discs from mechanical damage, impacts, and shocks.

When moving the system unit over long distances, it is better to remove the hard drive and move it separately.

There are two standards for connecting external drives, that is, magnetic and optical drives - the old ATA or PATA interface and the new one.

The new one differs from the old one in convenience and speed. But PATA devices are still available, so let’s look at both interfaces.

To connect you will need a special data cable.

It must be connected to the disk with the side that has the inscription “ MASTER“. Connector with the inscription “ SYSTEM” is connected to the system board.

Very often there are no inscriptions on the train. Then you should remember that the connector “ MASTER” corresponds to the end of the cable that has the 3rd intermediate connector “ SLAVE“, designed to connect a slave (auxiliary) disk or optical drive.

Thus, you can connect two ATA devices with one cable.

All PATA drives have switches (jumpers) that should be set in accordance with the “MASTER” or “SLAVE” mode.

After connecting the cable to the drive, install it in the slot in the front of the case and secure it with screws. Then connect power to the drives using the 4-pin connector coming from the power supply.

The SATA interface is simpler and more convenient, there are no jumpers, and the thin cable does not restrict the ventilation of the case.

On the motherboard, SATA connectors are usually located at the bottom right.

The power cable is also different.

Optical drives are connected in the same way. Usually a DVD-RW drive is installed.

Old connection interface.

New connection interface SATA.

After connecting the data cable, install the DVD drive into the case and secure it with four screws. Connect the power cable.

Then you need to connect the power button cables, the hard reset button and various PC operation indicators.

Their connection is described in detail in the instructions for the motherboard.

Check that all boards and drives are installed correctly. Replace the housing cover (to the right of the front panel) and secure it with screws.

Replace the left cover and secure it with screws.

At this point, the assembly stage of the PC system unit is completed.

The remaining components and devices (peripheral devices) are connected to the system unit through the corresponding connectors located on the rear wall of the unit, for example.

Also, to improve the cooling system, additional fans can be installed in the system unit.

We looked at the main stages of assembling a computer yourself.

You should get something like this approximately.

As a rule, if the components are selected correctly, no problems should arise and the assembly process will take a maximum of 30 to 60 minutes.

Well, in the future you will need, or some other one.

But that's a different story. Follow the link above. Good luck.

I would be grateful if you share this article on social networks:

A laptop or tablet has a lot of advantages, but if you want to assemble a computer with your own hands, then the choice will be in favor of a desktop. Assembling desktop computers has long ceased to be the preserve of a select few: it does not require special knowledge and skills in working with complex tools. All you need to assemble a computer yourself is instructions, a set of compatible components, a Phillips screwdriver and accuracy.

Configuration Types

Each user knows well what exactly he intends to do on the computer. The main advantage of self-assembly is the selection of configurations for the tasks with which you plan to load the system. Simply put, computers are divided into three types based on their purpose:

• Office/budget PC. For working with documents, tables, databases, 1C and similar software, correspondence, searching for information on the Internet, etc.
• The multimedia system solves a wide range of tasks, from web surfing to games. The same computer is usually used to store information.
• The gaming computer is designed for maximum performance in demanding games. The gaming PC copes with other tasks without difficulty, since it has top-end equipment.

There are intermediate configurations, and in addition, an upgrade with increased performance is possible.

Selection of components

At this step, you need to fulfill two conditions: select the most productive and compatible equipment that works flawlessly “in conjunction”, and stay within the budget.

Components of any system unit:

• power supply unit (PSU);
• motherboard (system) board;
• processor with cooler (fan);
• RAM sticks;
• system disk, often also a data storage device (HDD and/or SSD);
• video card (or integrated video adapter);
• frame.

You should devote some time to selecting hardware. There's no need to rush. Firstly, many sellers, taking advantage of the client’s inexperience, try to sell unpromising hardware, for example, a capacious and expensive, but slow hard drive. Secondly, if you compare the price lists of several companies and online stores, you can find a considerable range of prices and choose the most advantageous offers.

Budget PC

Even taking into account the price increase, it is quite possible to spend no more than 10 thousand rubles on a system unit. Modern motherboards have integrated graphics, which allows you to do without a video card without giving up entertainment. At your leisure, you can play not only the simplest games, but also moderately demanding ones. Or watch the video in Full HD format.

The optimal choice (if we talk about the beginning of 2015) would be the inexpensive dual-core Celeron G1840 processor from Intel. The motherboard for it is based on the Intel H97 chipset, for example ASRock Fatality H97. AMD platform – CPU AMD A6-6400K and motherboard based on AMD A75. When choosing a motherboard, pay attention to the presence of connectors for connecting a monitor: HDTV, DVI or DisplayPort.

If you pay a little extra and build a computer based on a processor with an integrated graphics core, for example the AMD A10-7850K, you will get a good multimedia PC.

RAM – DDR3-1333, 2 modules of 1Gb each. A 500 GB hard drive will be more than enough. HDD speed – 7200 rpm. Low speed models (5400 rpm) are suitable for data storage only.

Attention! Memory sticks should not be grasped by the contacts with your fingers, just like the video card or any other boards.

A 350 W power supply and a MidiTower format case, and if there is not enough free space, then a MiniTower (the motherboard format is selected accordingly). A DVD+RW drive is a desirable, but not mandatory, purchase. The operating system and software can be installed from a flash drive or using an external drive.

You should not skimp too much on a work PC monitor - this can negatively affect your eyesight. Option: inexpensive but high-quality BenQ GL2460HM with a TN+Film matrix and a 24-inch diagonal.

Multimedia PC

A “wide-profile” computer for the whole family can be assembled by spending no more than 40,000 rubles on components.

Sample configuration:

The noise level will decrease if you choose quiet fans. The monitor has a wide viewing angle, because there can be several viewers. The most popular diagonal is 27 inches (options: BENQ QW2760HS, ASUS VN279Q). If the computer is installed in the living room, headphones, for example Gigabyte Force H3X, will come in handy - in case one wants to play shooting games while the rest are watching TV.

Gaming computer

Such a car will seriously empty your wallet and enrich your life with emotions. Experienced gamers are well versed in hardware, and the magazine “Gaming” and the website igromania.ru will help beginners. The magazine has a section “Iron Shop”, where every month there are 7 options for gaming configurations, for every taste and budget. Elite hardware is presented in the “I saw you in a dream” category. But you can choose a price level from “Borrow, but buy!” and “Death to the brakes!” to “Cheap and cheerful.” For both platforms.

Among the processors, the stable leadership is for the AMD FX8350 (8 physical cores, 4 GHz, L2 cache 4x2048 KB plus the “popular” price), Intel fans will choose the Core i5-4690 or Core i7-4790K (letter K - for overclocking enthusiasts, means it has an unlocked multiplier).

Rating of central processors (CHIP, December 2014)

Owners of a computer on the AMD platform cannot save on cooling in any way - these CPUs are characterized by increased heat generation. The cooler mount can be either universal or designed for a specific socket.

The video card is the “heart” of a gaming PC, no less important than the processor. The beginning of 2015 was marked by the release of an interesting model - Nvidia GeForce GTX 970. Its price is almost twice as modest as that of the “older” GTX 980 (14,000 versus 24,000 rubles), and its performance is only 8% less. The two cooling fans are quiet and stop when idle. The card consumes only 145 W (the closest analogs use 230-250 W).

Alas, the hard drive is the slowest link in data transfer. To prevent the hard drive from slowing down the entire system, it is advisable to use an SSD+HDD combination: allocate a solid-state drive for the system partition, and place your files on the hard drive.

When everything is decided with the configuration, you can go shopping or place an order online.

Advice: it is advisable to select a monitor in person, since true color rendition cannot be displayed in any specifications. This requires a human eye. If you decide to buy from an online store, then the solution is to go to the nearest market and see the monitors in action, that is, on the display window.

Preparing for assembly

It is better to temporarily remove pets from the room where the assembly will take place, as well as anything that can be accidentally touched or knocked over. In the future, as you develop skills, such precautions are unlikely to be needed, but to begin with, it’s better not to take risks. Hands are washed thoroughly and wiped dry. Clothing should not generate static.

The components are unpacked and laid out on a clean, flat, lint-free surface. You need a manual for the motherboard; if you don’t have it, download the manual from the manufacturer’s website. At the same time, they take the latest drivers (not beta, only stable versions!).

Check for the presence of thermal paste, because without it you cannot install the cooler on the processor. Usually it comes bundled with boxed versions of the CPU. If thermal paste is not available, you need to buy it. The optimal choice: inexpensive, time-tested KPT-8, although Alsil or foreign analogues can also be used.

You will need 2 power cords - to the system unit and to the monitor, SATA cables, a video cable to the monitor, as well as adapters to the video card (if it requires additional power). Some power supplies already have connectors designed for connecting video cards. It’s a good idea to prepare a dozen small ties (clamps) to nicely tidy up the wires inside the system unit. The monitor, mouse and keyboard are also placed nearby - they will soon be needed, as well as the installation disk with the OS.

Assembly

It won’t take much time if the workplace is prepared in advance. Sequencing:

1. Installing the processor. Place the motherboard on a flat, horizontal surface (on a table or floor), with bubble wrap or thick cardboard underneath it. Remove the plastic plug from the socket, open the latch and cover. The processor is placed strictly in accordance with the markings, checking the instructions for the board. Typically, gold-plated triangles serve as a guide, which indicate one of the corners of the socket and, accordingly, the processor. There is no need to press hard on anything, otherwise the socket or processor will be damaged. After installing the CPU, close the metal cover and latch.
2. Apply thermal paste to the top area of ​​the processor carefully and in as thin and even a layer as possible. In cases where thermal paste is already on the “bottom” of the cooler, all that remains is to remove the protective film.
3. Installing a radiator and cooler on the processor. It is produced in accordance with the instructions for the fan, since there are several types of fastenings. General point: do not press hard on the radiator, especially on its edges. The processor is housed in a protective steel case, but there is still a risk of damage. Once installed, the cooler is immediately connected to the corresponding connector (CPU Fan) on the board.
4. Open the side cover of the case and install the aluminum plug that came with the motherboard. Place the case in such a way that the platform under the motherboard is in a horizontal position - this is more convenient to work with. Attention: no small metal objects (bolts, paper clips, etc.) should get under the board!
5. Mount the motherboard (with the processor already installed) in its designated place. In any case, the “seats” for bolts are placed in a standard way and coincide with 4 or 6 holes on the board itself. All interface connectors on the board must fit into appropriately shaped slots in the plug.
6. According to the instructions, front panel buttons and indicators are connected to the board - Power, Reset, IDE LED, etc. Then connect the USB connectors (without mixing up Power and Ground - otherwise you can say goodbye to several flash drives before the error is detected).
7. The power supply is secured with 4 bolts. Connect additional processor power (4-pin connector with 2 black and 2 yellow wires) and system board power (20+4-pin connector). Do not use excessive force! Deformation of the board can cause the tracks to break.
8. One or more hard drives are placed in the HDD cage, their power supply and SATA cables are connected. If there is an SSD, connect it, as well as the disk drive.
9. The video card (after removing 1 or 2 plugs in the rear of the case) is inserted into the PCI-Express slot and gently pressed until the latch is released. Connect the power supply to the video card, if provided.
10. Select all cables and wires in such a way that they do not interfere with air circulation inside the case and do not get into the fan blades. Typically, the wires are secured with ties in the form of a bundle and placed around the perimeter of the motherboard. Simultaneously check whether all devices are connected.
11. Install the memory strips into the slots - first making sure that the slots in the strips coincide with the “keys” in the slots, and then evenly and not pressing them too hard until they click.

The video shows the whole process step by step. The installation of the processor (AMD and Intel), memory cards, connection of front panel buttons, and other important points are shown in detail, with comments.

The assembly of a gaming computer differs only in the price of components (top-end video card, 2 HDD+SSD, 16 GB of RAM, etc.). The video will help you see this:

Tip: small bolts will never be lost if you use a magnetic screwdriver.

Let's first determine the amount of the budget for the PC we are building, and also clarify that this budget applies to what will be placed in the system unit - this amount does not take into account the monitor, keyboard and mouse, since these components are the subject of a separate discussion.

And in this article, when talking about an inexpensive computer, we will mean a budget for assembling a PC “from scratch” of no more than 30,000 rubles. For assembly we need the following components:

• CPU;
• Motherboard;
• HDD;
• System case with power supply;
• Video card;
• Optical drive for CD/DVD discs.

Microprocessor selection

The computer processor is the main center of the computer's computing capabilities, and recently the graphics core has also been transferred to its substrate, so the assembly can exist without an external video card. However, in our case we are talking about a powerful PC, so we need an external video card.

The choice of processor will determine the base platform of our PC. Today, the most popular platforms are Intel and AMD. We will build on the Intel platform, since processors from the computer giant Intel are considered more efficient and economical, although they are inferior in graphics capabilities to their AMD counterparts.

There is no point in saving on a microprocessor, since we want a powerful computer. We will also provide for the purchase of a boxed version of the microprocessor, which comes with a heat sink unit. Our choice will be a microprocessor with an LGA 1150 socket, which is by far the most common. The cost of this component should not exceed $100, and therefore a good solution in this case it will be a Pentium G3220 or G3240. Its cost will not even exceed $90.

Motherboard

What we should save on is when choosing a motherboard, but even here the savings should be within reasonable limits. By selecting a microprocessor, we have significantly narrowed down our motherboard options, as we now only need to choose from those that provide the LGA 1150 socket.

Savings in choosing a motherboard concern its layout. We don't need to buy a motherboard equipped with connectors that will never be used - this applies, for example, to RAID arrays. And the more connectors and “wider” wiring, the more expensive the motherboard. For our needs, it is enough that the motherboard has USB, SATA and one PCI-Express connectors for connecting a video card. In addition, almost all modern solutions have a built-in LAN port and VGA connector. In our budget case, we shouldn’t choose from full-size ATX, but mATX is quite suitable. Let's choose a motherboard from GigaByte - this is the GA-B85M-D2V board. It costs about $80, so we've already spent $170. Its connectors and ports are sufficient not only to connect internal PC components, but also to connect all the necessary computer peripherals.

The motherboard we selected has two slots for DIMM memory sticks of the DDR3 type. At the same time, the supported frequency is 1333-1600 MHz, and the memory capacity is up to 16 GB. In our case, at first 4 GB will be enough - we will fill only one slot. However, it is necessary to understand that in 32-bit Windows the user will have access to a little less than 4 “gigs”. A smaller amount of memory cannot place a modern PC in the category of powerful ones, since the same Windows 8 operating environment (64-bit version) already requires 2 GB of memory, and modern applications are also very demanding in this matter. Therefore, our choice will be on Kingston DDR3 4Gb 1600 MHz memory. Its cost is about 50 dollars, and therefore the total amount of our purchase has already reached 220 dollars.

Video card

This is a component that you shouldn’t skimp on either, since it is the video card that is responsible for generating and outputting the computer’s graphics. The higher the memory capacity of the graphics card, the higher the monitor resolution your PC can support, and the higher its bit depth, the faster graphics can be generated and displayed. In our case, we will need a budget option with a 64-bit bus and 2 GB GDDR3 memory. Let's choose a video card from the company Sapphire worth 80 dollars. In the future, it can be easily replaced with a more powerful one. Thus, the total amount of our purchase grows to $300, and we still have to choose a system unit, an optical drive and a hard drive.

HDD

Now we don’t need to purchase external hard drives in bulk, we need an internal HDD - we’ll opt for a classic hard drive and won’t consider solid-state drives. The most common average hard drive size today is 500 GB, but some “terabytes” are only $10 more expensive. If we come across an IDE interface, then we skip such an HDD and pay attention to the SATA interface. In our case, for example, hard from Western Digital WD10EZEX. The volume of this HDD is 1 TB, and the spindle speed is 7200 rpm. It also has a 64 MB cache and a SATA 3 interface, which is supported by our motherboard. The hard one we chose cost about $85, bringing our total purchase to $385.

System unit

To combine all the purchased components, we will need an inexpensive system unit with a 400 W power supply - this power is enough to service the purchased components. Since we chose a motherboard of the micro-ATX form factor, it is enough for us that this case supports motherboards of this particular form factor. But in the future, the computer user may want to upgrade it, and therefore we will choose a case that also supports motherboards of the full-size ATX form factor. In this case, a case, for example, from Logicpower with a built-in power supply for $30, is perfect. Thus, our amount increased to $415.

Optical drive

For full-fledged work, we also need an inexpensive optical drive that can play the contents of CDs and DVDs. We will need a drive with a SATA interface that costs no more than $25.

Our purchase did not exceed $500, but we assembled a fairly powerful computer with good technical performance and the ability to further modernize it. The motherboard, for example, allows you to add another memory stick and a number of expansion cards. The video card can be replaced with a more powerful one, and the case supports the ability to replace the motherboard itself with a full-size ATX version. In addition, the cooling system in the case can be improved by installing an additional case cooler. At the same time, we invested less than $450-500. It should also be taken into account that you will have to spend money on two data cables for the hard drive and optical drive, but their cost is incomparably less than the amount spent on assembly.

A gaming computer can be considered a computer that is capable of playing all modern games, providing an acceptable level of comfort from this entertainment. But user requirements differ, so very different devices fall into the category of gaming PCs. For many users, it is enough that games play smoothly, the game world is displayed correctly and there are no control problems. Professional gamers (who make money from gaming) and those who spend a significant portion of their leisure time playing games have more stringent requirements for PC performance.

This material will tell you how to assemble a gaming PC with your own hands, both for users who just need a smooth rendering of the picture on the screen, and for gamers for whom the quality of graphics is paramount. Of course, for these two categories of buyers, both the performance of the components and their cost will differ significantly (up to ten times). But the general recommendations on how to assemble a gaming PC with your own hands will be similar for everyone.

Assembling a PC on your own is, first of all, a solution that allows you to select the optimal configuration for the needs of a particular user. Also, setting up your own computer is a way to save money. The question of how to build a cheap gaming PC interests many users. Unfortunately, the performance of a computer largely depends on its cost. Therefore, it is now impossible to assemble a completely cheap (for example, for 10-15 thousand rubles) gaming PC.

Where to begin

Budget is a key factor when choosing components. Therefore, first of all, you should decide how much money will be allocated for the purchase. It also matters whether you need the system unit itself, or peripheral devices (monitor, acoustics, keyboard, mouse).

Each manufacturer's model range includes several sockets (processor sockets). Each of them requires a motherboard with its own connector. If the CPU is equipped with Socket 1155, then the motherboard must have the same. In addition, you should consider the board's compatibility with specific processor models. As a rule, board manufacturers publish lists of supported CPUs on their official websites.

The requirements for the board itself are determined based on the number and capacity of RAM sticks that will be installed, the number of connected drives (HDD, SSD), their interfaces (SATA, PCI-Express or M.2) and overclocking capabilities. The future upgrade also matters: if one is planned in a couple of months or years, you need to choose a motherboard with a large number of interfaces and a fresh chipset (for example, MSI H61M-P31/W8 for Intel, ASUS M5A78L-M LX for AMD). If you are renting a computer for a long time and there is no provision for upgrading its components, you can save a little on the system board.

An advanced motherboard is needed if an upgrade is planned

Video card

The GPU in a gaming computer is just as (if not more) important than the CPU. It is the video card that is responsible for processing the three-dimensional image and displaying it on the display. However, you can’t just pick up and install a powerful video card and save on other hardware. Information for subsequent processing by the graphics processor is prepared by the “CPU + RAM” combination, which, in turn, receives data from the drive (HDD and SSD).

A weak processor will not allow you to unleash the potential of a gaming video card

The “weak link” (regardless of whether it is the processor, video card or hard drive) will drag the system down, becoming a bottleneck. An analogy can be drawn with a logistics terminal: no matter how high its throughput is, no matter how many cars are loaded, if there is a lack of loading equipment and labor, expanding the capabilities of the terminal itself will not help speed up its work.

Tandems like “inexpensive Intel Core i3 (or similar AMD FX 4xxx series) + Geforce GTX Titan X” are thus extremely ineffective and a waste of money. The “ceiling” of such processors is video cards of the Geforce GTX 750 Ti class. Such a chip will not reveal the potential of a more productive GPU.

To assess whether the combination of the selected processor and video card will have the optimal balance of capabilities, you can compare their prices. The cost of the GPU should exceed the price of the CPU. In the budget category (Intel Core i3, AMD FX 4xxx and 6xxx series) the difference is 10-30%, and in the niche of more expensive devices it can reach 100%. That is, if you plan to buy a processor for 8,000 rubles, then there is no point in installing a video card for 15,000 or more. But the GeForce GTX 980, costing up to 50 thousand, will be optimally combined with an Intel Core i7 CPU for 25-30 thousand.

You can install 2 video cards if the motherboard supports SLI (for Nvidia GeForce) or CrossFire (AMD Radeon) technologies. In the budget segment, such a solution looks pointless (1 GPU for 15 thousand will be more productive than 2 for 8 thousand). In the top class, connecting two video cards allows you to achieve an increase in performance that cannot be realized in other ways.

Two video cards in SLI will increase the performance of your gaming PC

If you plan to upgrade your PC, you can purchase a motherboard that supports two video cards and get a GeForce GTX 960-level GPU. For now, the capabilities of this video card are enough to play all games, and in a year you can pair it with another one of the same kind to improve performance.

It should be remembered that to work in SLI/CrossFire, video cards must be, if not identical, then built on the same version of the graphics processor.

RAM

When choosing RAM, the main thing is to take into account the compatibility of generations and operating frequencies. For example, sixth generation Intel Core i7 processors (and motherboards compatible with them) work with DDR4 RAM sticks, and AMD FX 8xxx - DDR3.

DDR4 memory is faster, but not supported by all processors

The amount of RAM is limited by the wallet and the number of slots on the motherboard. RAM is a resource that can never be enough (thanks to software developers who, after switching to 64-bit Windows, do not bother themselves with excessive efforts to optimize memory consumption). Therefore, whether to install 8 GB of RAM or 32 is up to users to decide.

When selecting RAM sticks, it is recommended to install them in pairs or triplets. In this case, the chips operate in two or three-channel (depending on the CPU model and motherboard) mode. In this case, the speed of data exchange theoretically increases, respectively, by two or three times. Two 4 GB modules will work faster than 1 8 GB module.

Drives

Hard drives are gradually losing ground under the pressure of rapidly reducing prices, gaining capacity and becoming more reliable SSDs. Since it is impossible to build a powerful gaming PC without a high-speed drive, a gaming computer cannot do without a solid-state drive. A capacity of 256 or 512 GB is enough to install Windows and games, and for multimedia content (music, movies), you can simultaneously install a capacious HDD of 2, 3 or more terabytes.

The capacity of modern HDDs has already reached 10 TB

It is worth noting the following point. Budget motherboards are equipped with a 4-pin CPU power connector. So, we divide the existing 8-pin cable with our hands into two 4-pin cables and connect it to the board. Expensive motherboards, on the contrary, are equipped with an additional connector in addition to the 8-pin connector. The trick is that in this case everything will work from one 8-pin wire. An additional port is needed if, for example, you seriously overclock the central processor. But then you will need an accompanying power supply or adapter.

Step No. 5: installing drives and optical drive

For desktop PCs, there are two most common drive form factors: 2.5-inch and 3.5-inch. Plus, solid-state drives with an M.2 connector are gaining popularity. As for the latter, everything is simple with this form factor: the device is installed directly into a port soldered on the motherboard. But 2.5- and 3.5-inch drives must first be secured in the case.

In 99% of cases, the case is equipped with a special basket with a slide. The manufacturer also indicates in the specifications the number of slots for 2.5- and 3.5-inch drives, as well as 5.25-inch devices. In the case of the Fractal Design Define R5, two metal baskets are used. The first (top) can accommodate five 3.5-inch or the same number of 2.5-inch drives. The second (bottom) is three. In some cases these baskets may be removable. Plus, this particular case has two seats for 2.5-inch drives behind the chassis.

Not all computer cases optionally support the installation of 2.5-inch drives. True, many SSD manufacturers complete their products with special adapters for 3.5-inch sleds. They are usually packed in cardboard boxes, but not sealed in a blister.