I installed the car myself. How to prevent the washing machine from running on tiles. Faulty tank suspension and support bearings. Loosening the counterweight

Constant “moving” of the washing machine, rocking and “bouncing” is unlikely to please the user of the equipment. Most models of front-facing cameras “run” along the floor covering, thus covering significant distances and trying to pull out the power cord from the outlet and ram objects standing nearby. We'll talk about how to secure a washing machine to tiles below.

Why doesn't it stand still?

There is a logical explanation for the fact that the machine jumps during the spin cycle: a centrifugal force arises in the machine’s tank, which acts on the side walls of the unit’s body. To reduce its pressure, the manufacturer installs a counterweight inside the washing machine - an element designed to ensure the stability of the equipment. But in some models, especially narrow sizes, the counterweights are not heavy enough, so they cannot reliably fix the washing machine at spin speeds above 1000 rpm.

Yes, modern small-sized machines, on the one hand, are produced very compact and lighter, on the other hand, they will certainly slide at high speeds, and if the owner sets the “Spin” mode with the drum rotating more than 1600 times per minute, then they can do it and “fly” up.

The next factor that could lead to this problem is improper installation of washing equipment. Perhaps it was not level, or the floor covering under the washer turned out to be unreliable.

Having found out the root causes of the washer’s constant “driving” on the floor, you need to figure out what to do to solve this problem. Housewives who don’t want to bother too much simply place weights on the top cover of the machine, for example, a bowl of water, a bag of powder or a tall stack of books.

It is possible to temporarily “pacify” the unit in this way, but it is not recommended to constantly place a weight on the lid of the washing machine so that it does not move on the tiles. It is better to solve the problem that has arisen by other methods, more serious and reliable. Let's try to present to your attention the most effective of them.

GoodFoot coasters

The first way is to install special anti-vibration stands under the bottom of the washing machine. If you place such devices under the legs, you can forget about sliding and jumping of the unit. The stands, designed to prevent vibration of the machine, look stylish and will not spoil the appearance of the interior.

These footrests are made from very durable polymer. The material of the products does not heat up, does not deform, and is not afraid of moisture. Manufacturers claim that the relief on the surface of the stand prevents the automatic machine from moving arbitrarily on the floor, and the provided stiffening ribs absorb vibration shocks well, while simultaneously effectively distributing the load.

Installing anti-vibration stands is quite easy; this does not even require disconnecting the washing machine from communications.

To place special stands, you need to lift the machine on the right side and carefully place polymer products under the legs of the equipment. The same actions are carried out with the left side of the unit.

Anti-slip mat

An anti-slip floor mat is another option that will prevent the machine from “running” and “jumping” on the floor surface. An anti-vibration product can kill two birds with one stone: prevent the equipment from slipping and reduce the vibration of the machine during the washing process.

The anti-slip carpet has two layers:

the upper one, which is characterized by an anti-slip effect, has increased resistance to various types of mechanical damage;
the lower one, responsible for ventilation and absorption of body vibrations.

The carpet material, which has a bubble structure, contributes to good shock absorption. Rubber, which is one of the main components of the product, allows the fabric not to deform, withstand heavy loads, and be resistant to temperature changes (can be used at temperatures from -40 to +120 °C).

It is very important to choose the right anti-slip mat. Let's make a brief overview of the highest quality anti-vibration sheets:

A two-layer carpet from the Proflex brand is of high quality and environmentally friendly. The product is odorless and has excellent antistatic characteristics;
Mattix-Vibromats can withstand large temperature changes and differ from analogues in increased wear resistance. The carpet is able to withstand increased loads and is completely safe for the health of family members;
the budget Lux canvas is characterized by excellent anti-slip properties, however, some users note the weak anti-vibration effect of the product;
Shahintex universal fabric is ideal for both small and large washing equipment. The product is easy to clean, perfectly absorbs noise, and prevents the machine from slipping.

In the modern world, technology plays a huge role in human life. It’s hard to imagine a housewife without a stove, vacuum cleaner or washing machine.

One of the most important helpers in everyday life is washing equipment.

And not just equipment that, before washing or spinning clothes, makes unimaginable movements around the room, but smart automatic machines.

This article will discuss how to properly install a washing machine.

What will happen to the guarantee?

First, before you begin installation, you need to consider whether the warranty will be valid if you install it yourself.

If this issue is resolved or is not so important, then you can safely begin to act and first figure out how to install a washing machine yourself. This matter is not difficult.

Pre-check

After purchasing a washing machine and delivering it home, it would be good to carry out some manipulations, or, more simply put, check the equipment for defects.

To do this you need:

Read the instructions

So, an indispensable assistant in everyday life has been acquired. But before it can begin to perform its function, proper installation is necessary. It is advisable to very carefully read the instructions supplied with any equipment and study the nuances in order to avoid errors during installation.

Installation of a washing machine

Preparatory stage

Tools and materials

What you will need to properly install the washing machine:

The correct location for the washing machine is half the success in its proper installation and operation.

Choosing a place

It is at this stage that you need to decide where to install the washing machine.

It is placed on a hard horizontal surface.

In a small room, it is better to remove unnecessary items so that nothing interferes with the installation of equipment.

Make sure that the wire from the machine reaches the outlet and is free and not tense. For example, a good option is to install a washing machine under the countertop in the kitchen or, according to the classic version, in the bathroom.

Read also: High-quality repair of vestel washing machines

Getting the car ready

We've decided on the location, now it's time to get to work on the machine.

Free the machine from excess film and other unnecessary elements.
Remove the shipping screws that secure the tank. A wrench matched to the diameter of the screws will help with this.
To avoid damage to the drum of the washing machine, you need to free it from all installed fasteners required during transportation.
Close all resulting holes with plugs.

Installation phase

Setting up the stand

It is very important to install the washing machine correctly so that it does not jump. This can be achieved by choosing the correct height for each machine leg.

This way you provide it with maximum stability during washing. So what needs to be done:

select the height of the stand so that the machine does not shake during operation;
install the equipment exactly horizontally relative to the floor.

Fulfillment of these conditions guarantees the stability of the automatic machine and protects against unnecessary noise produced when installed incorrectly.

Even the slightest deviation will cause unnecessary vibrations. After selecting the height of each leg, they are tightened.

To prevent the washing machine from sliding on the floor, you can install rubber bands on the legs of the washing machine or lay down a rubber mat.

Setting up the electrical network and grounding

The cord attached to the back wall of the equipment is connected to a grounded network.

If there is no outlet at all, it is better to call a specialist who will install it with proper grounding.

Otherwise, the washing machine will shock.

We connect to sewerage and water supply

Let's figure out how to install a washing machine drain. All washing units are connected to cold water using an inlet hose.

A hose is connected using a plastic sluice on the back wall of the machine.

It is attached to the bathroom sink or sink using a hook and should not be higher than 90 cm.

In addition, it is necessary to install a shut-off valve in case the equipment will not be used for a long time and for convenient dismantling.

Afterwards, the washing machine is turned on and checked for water leakage at the connection points. If everything is normal, then the washing machine is ready for use.

The final stage

We carry out a control check

Signs by which you can determine the correct installation of the washing machine:

If all this is present, then the washing machine is installed, right. And it will work for a very long time.

The washing machine must be connected to three networks at once: water supply, sewerage and electricity. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a place for installation so that all three systems are located nearby or there is an opportunity to bring them there. The optimal places to install a washing machine are the bathtub, toilet and kitchen - they have all the necessary communications. Most often they require a little modification, but connecting the washing machine is not very difficult. The connection process itself is simple, you don’t need to do anything super complicated, if you have “direct” ones, you can do everything yourself.

Accommodation options

toilet;
bathroom or combined bathroom;
kitchen;
corridor.

The most problematic option is the corridor. Usually there are no required communications in the corridor - no sewerage, no water. You will have to “pull” them to the installation site, which is not at all easy. But sometimes this is the only option. In the photo below there are several interesting solutions for how you can place the typewriter in the hallway.

The photo shows an option for installing a washing machine in a narrow corridor Making something similar to a portal is also a solution

The toilet has all communications, but in typical high-rise buildings the size of this room is such that it is sometimes difficult to turn around there - there is no space at all. In this case, washing machines are placed above the toilet. To do this, make a shelf so that when sitting on the toilet you do not touch it with your head. It is clear that it must be very durable and reliable, and the machine must have very good shock absorbers. In addition, they must be set perfectly, otherwise they may “jump away” during the spin cycle. In general, with this method of installing a washing machine, it doesn’t hurt to make several strips that will prevent it from falling off the shelf.

The shelf is solid and reliable, but slippery - you need a rubber mat under the legs for shock absorption

In the bathroom and combined toilet there is usually not very much space either, but still more than in the toilet. There is a choice here. If you have space, you can place the washing machine next to the sink. You can install a table top on top, which will be a logical conclusion and will also solve the problem of water getting on the body. To make everything look organic, you need to choose a machine of such a height that it fits into the size, and the sink itself is better square - then they will be wall to wall. If there is not enough space, you can slide at least part of the body under the sink.

There is a more compact way - to place the washing machine under the sink. Only the sink needs a special shape so that the siphon is installed at the back.

The next option for installing a washing machine in the bathroom is on the side of the bath - between its side and the wall. Today, case sizes can be narrow, so this option is a reality.

Just keep in mind that installing such equipment in bathrooms or a combined bathroom is not the best idea. Due to increased humidity, the case begins to rust quickly (tested from my own experience). However, there is usually not a lot of space, although in principle, you can put the car under the washbasin or hang shelves above it. In general, it's up to you.

Another popular place to install a washing machine is in the kitchen. It is built into . Sometimes they close doors, sometimes they don’t. This is at the discretion of the owners. Several interesting photos are in the gallery.

Doors with a cutout for a “porthole”

Removing the shipping bolts

Before connecting the washing machine, you need to unpack it and remove the mounting bolts and replace them with plugs.

This procedure is required immediately after unpacking. If you leave the bolts and turn on the machine, it will break. And this is not a warranty case. The number of bolts varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but their installation diagram is in the instruction manual, and they are visible on the back wall. Just take a screwdriver and unscrew it, and close the opened hole with a plug.

Connection to water supply

First, let’s talk about what kind of water the washing machine is connected to. In general - to the cold. The water is then heated by heating elements as needed. Some owners, in order to save money, connect to hot water. This way, less energy is consumed when washing. But the savings are doubtful - more hot water is wasted. If a meter is installed on the hot water supply, then it is cheaper to pay for electricity than for hot water. It is also worth considering that connecting a washing machine to hot water is not very good for laundry: the temperature causes the whites to curl and then not be washed well.

We were talking about ordinary washing machines, but there are models that connect to both hot and cold water. They have not one water inlet on the back wall, but two. In our country they are very rare - there is too little demand, and the prices for such equipment are much higher.

Now about the connection itself. The washing machine comes with a rubber hose, which is used to connect the washing machine to the water. Its length is 70-80 cm, which is not always enough. If necessary, you can buy a longer one in stores that sell plumbing fixtures (3 meters is not the limit, it seems).

This hose is screwed onto the corresponding outlet on the rear wall. There should be a sealing rubber gasket there, so there is no need to wind it up. Tighten the hose union nut (plastic) by hand; if you use wrenches, tighten it only half a turn. Not more.

The second end of the hose must be connected to the water supply system. If you have a free outlet somewhere that ends with a tap, great; if not, you need to make a tie-in.

If there is a free drainage of water, connecting the washing machine to the water supply is very simple - install a filter and a hose to it. All

The easiest way with plastic, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes is to buy a tee (with one transition to metal), solder/install it. If the water supply is connected by a metal pipe, you will have to install the tee by welding.

In any case, a tap is installed after the tee. A simpler and cheaper one is a ball one. When installing it, you can wrap flax tow on the threads and lubricate it with paste.

After the tee, install a ball valve and connect the hose to it

There are also tees with taps for connecting washing machines and other household appliances. The same ball valve is installed in one of the outlets, but everything is done in one housing. It looks more compact, but if the tap malfunctions, you will have to change the entire tee, but it costs a decent amount.

Sometimes it is recommended to install a filter before the tap. Of course, it won’t be superfluous, but if there is a filter at the entrance to the apartment or house, then there is no urgent need for it.

Where to route the drain hose

If there is a sink or sink siphon nearby, there is no problem. You don't even have to redo the sewer system. You will need to buy a special siphon with an outlet for connecting washing machines and other household appliances and install it in place of the old one.

Another option is to connect the washing machine to the sewer directly. To do this you can:

All these methods require alteration of the pipeline, but the connection will be major. There is one point: the diameter of the drain hose is much smaller than the size of the sewer pipes. To ensure tightness and ensure the absence of odors, special rubber cuffs are inserted into the outlets. The hose is simply stuck into them. The elastic edge of the cuff squeezes it, the connection is ready.

There are also temporary connection options. The drain hose is simply lowered into the bathtub, toilet or sink. This method, of course, is very simple, but not the best - the hose may fall, you may forget to put it back after turning on the machine, etc. Then the water drains directly onto the floor, and cleaning up the flood is not very pleasant, and even the neighbors below (if any) will definitely not be happy.

Lowering the hose into the toilet is simple, but unreliable

With any method of connecting the drain hose from the machine to the sewer, you must ensure that it does not bend or become looped. The corrugated drain hose is prone to blockages, so you need to ensure the minimum bend radius.

All this data is usually specified in the instructions, but usually the minimum bending radius is 50 cm, the maximum is 85 cm. In order to control the position of the hose, there are special plastic clamps that fit on top of the corrugation and hold it in the desired position.

Electrical connection

Since the power of the washing machine when the heating elements are turned on is decent, it is advisable to connect a separate power supply line to it from the panel. The circuit is simple - the phase from the input is supplied to the circuit breaker, from it goes to the RCD, then through a wire to the location where the socket is installed.

All manufacturers emphasize that the outlet must be grounded. Only in this case the factory guarantees remain valid.

Now about the denominations. The circuit breaker is selected according to the current required by the device. This figure can be found in your passport, or you can calculate it. It is necessary to divide the power of the washing machine by 220 V, we get the current consumption. For example, your unit has a power of 3.5 kW. We get 3500 W / 220 V = 15.9 A. We take the nearest larger rated circuit breaker. They come in 6 A, 10 A, 16 A, 20 A, 25 A. For our case, a 16 A machine is suitable.

Let's move on to choosing an RCD. In terms of current, it is taken one step higher than the rating of the machine, that is, for the example given it is 32 A. But the RCD has one more characteristic - leakage current. For devices that connect to a dedicated line, the recommended value is 10 mA. So, for a washing machine with a power of 3.5 kW, a 16 A automatic machine, a 32 A RCD, with a leakage current of 10 mA are required.

It would also be nice to calculate the cross-section of the wire. Today, cables with copper conductors are mainly used for wiring. They are more flexible and less heavy. The calculation is made based on power or current consumption, but since the power spread of washing machines is limited, we can immediately say that for devices up to 4.1 kW, a core cross-section of 1.5 square meters is sufficient. mm (copper conductors), up to 5.5 kW - cross-section 2.5 sq. mm.

And the last thing about electrics: about sockets. When choosing an outlet, keep track of more than just the presence of a grounding contact. You also need to look at what voltage the outlet is designed for. Normal products have markings on the back. The maximum operating voltage is indicated there. Sometimes the rated current is set. You know it too (or you can calculate it as described above). If there are no inscriptions, it is better not to risk it. Most likely this is cheap Chinese consumer goods and how it will work is a mystery.

The last stage is setting the level

Connecting the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system is not all. We need to provide her with normal working conditions. To prevent the washing machine from jumping during the spin cycle, it must be positioned strictly vertically. The position of the body is adjusted using adjustable legs. Take a building level, place it on the lid, change the height of the legs, ensuring that the bubble in the level is strictly in the center.

Check by placing the level parallel to the front part, then move it to the rear wall. Then the procedure is repeated, but the level is applied to the side walls of the case - on one side, then on the other. Once the bubble is strictly in the center in all positions, we can assume that the washing machine is level.

If there is no level, you can try to level the machine by placing a glass with a rim filled with water on it. The water level is up to the rim. Change the position until the water is exactly along the rim. This method is less accurate, but better than nothing.

There is one more point. Most often, washing machines are placed on a tiled floor, which is slippery and hard. That’s why even a perfectly aligned machine sometimes “jumps”—it’s impossible to dampen the vibration when spinning on a hard floor. To cope with the situation, you can place a rubber mat under the machine. It serves as an excellent shock absorber.

An automatic washing machine (AWA) belongs to the category of equipment that is not enough to buy and bring into the house. For the device to work, you still need to install it correctly. Installation is usually carried out by service specialists. But if the manufacturer does not prohibit the buyer from installing the SMA on his own, threatening to deprive him of warranty service, then he can do without the help of specialists. Let's figure out how to connect the washing machine correctly.

How to install a washing machine with your own hands?

Unlike their predecessors - the machines, in which water was filled and drained manually, the machines are connected not only to the electrical network. You also need to know how to connect the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system. Let's look at each stage in detail.

Inspection

Most often, stores independently deliver sold washing machines to homes - this equipment is bulky and special, so the seller, by providing such a service, makes life easier for his customers. Before accepting the goods and signing for receipt documents, open the package. Or even suggest that the delivery people do it themselves. Inspection procedure:

Carefully inspect the machine - there should be no dents or scratches on the body.
Lightly shake the machine from side to side - there should be no knocks or sounds.

The device may have been damaged during transportation - but you should not put up with this; demand that the damaged model be replaced.

External damage spoils not only the external appearance - the impact could damage internal parts. Moreover, this may not appear immediately, but over time. You will have to send the device in for repair under warranty - why do you need unnecessary problems?

Such situations rarely happen - usually the cars are delivered intact. If the condition is normal, sign and send delivery workers. If you decide to do the installation yourself, start preparing.

Removing shipping parts

For safe transportation, special fasteners are attached to the washing machine. These are usually various kinds of bars, bolts and brackets - they are necessary to fix the tank. They definitely need to be removed. If the tank vibrates during transport, it may damage adjacent components. If the fasteners are not removed, the tank will not rotate. Imagine what will happen if you plug the SMA into the network, the engine will start running, but the tank will be static - a breakdown is extremely likely. To do everything correctly, read the manufacturer’s instructions - installation instructions must be included with the equipment. Also read our article on shipping bolts.

Where to put it?

Regardless of who installs the washing machine, it is necessary to decide in advance on the location so that the SMA will fit there. Often the model is selected taking into account the availability of free space. If the area is limited, you need to take measurements and, based on them, buy the modification that will fit in the allotted space: this is especially important when purchasing built-in equipment. Well, if there is no shortage of free space in your home, take any option - you can focus on criteria that are more important to you. Some value design, others - the presence of modes, spaciousness, etc.

Typically, SMA is installed where there is convenient access to water supply and sewerage. They are placed more often in bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, and less often in corridors or closets.

Level installation

The device must stand perfectly level; the level of noise and vibration during its operation depends on this. When distorted, vibrations will increase, especially in spin mode. To ensure that the equipment stands on a perfectly flat horizontal surface, use a building level. To place the machine level, adjust the height of its legs. Each support is fixed at the required height using locknuts - so that they do not unwind and do not have to be leveled again.

How to connect to the network correctly?

Connecting the washing machine to the electrical network is done in two ways:

directly into the outlet;
through an extension cord - this method is not recommended, as it reduces the safety of use.

A regular socket is not suitable - only with a grounding contact and water protection. Exceptional electrical safety must be ensured. Electricity and water are a dangerous tandem that can lead to serious electrical injuries.

According to safety regulations, the SMA is connected to a separate outlet. Modern washing machines are usually equipped with current protection and grounding. But extra insurance won't hurt.

It happens that an ungrounded device outputs voltage to the housing, then the machine gives an electric shock. To connect the device, it is recommended to use an RCD - residual current device.

How to connect the SMA to water yourself?

If the apartment already had an SMA, then there are tie-ins in the right places; all that remains is to connect the hoses to the corresponding pipes. They are included with any machine. What else will need to be done is to install a corrugated hose in the sewer tee.

What water should I connect to?

There are models in which you can connect not only cold, but also hot water. Experts are sure that there are few advantages from this. Every SMA has a heating element that heats water - so why duplicate the function? Connecting a hot water supply pipe has serious disadvantages:

Hot water is dirtier than cold water. You will need to clean the filter frequently. Often this work has to be entrusted to a master.
It has a higher level of rigidity. To wash things, you will have to spend more washing powder.

How to connect the water yourself?

When there are no prepared pipe bends, serious work remains. It is necessary to make taps, install bends and only then screw on the hoses. If only for cold water, everything is set in the singular. It happens that the length of the inlet hose is not enough, then:

buy another one, longer;
increase the short one.

For installation work you will need to stock up on:

tee;
adapter - between ½ and ¾ threads;
valve;
fluoroplastic sealing tape.

The pipe is cut. A tee is inserted into it. Then a hose is connected to the valve through an adapter. Do not think that you can do without a valve - it will allow you to disconnect the device without shutting off the water in the water supply. And keep in mind that it is better to open the valve during washing - this will prevent leaks.

Before making a bend, find out what material the pipes are made of. For iron ones you will need welding, for plastic ones - a soldering iron. No welding or soldering iron? Then buy a special outlet coupling. Usually they take 15 mm or a little more - they have different sizes. The installation diagram is quite simple; basic tool handling skills are enough to handle the connection yourself.

To drain dirty water automatically, you need to connect the washing machine to the sewer. What is needed to install a drain? Stock up on all the necessary components:

tee - 5 cm;
outlet - d 5 cm, length 40 cm;
coupling;
rubber seal;
clamp;
air valve 5 cm.

The main thing is to ensure the correct bend of the hose - the distance from its end to the floor surface should be 50 cm or more. If you do not want to bother with the bend, organize a stationary drain. To do this, you need an additional siphon - it is mounted, and then the drain hose is connected. The main thing is to ensure secure fastening to avoid leaks. Next, the drain is connected to a cast iron pipe.

Testing

The last stage is to check the functionality of the system. Procedure:

Make sure the drum rotates - it should remain motionless.
Make sure there are no leaks - if the hoses are connected correctly, there will be none.
Listen - you should not hear any strange sounds.
Check the spin and drain operation.

Useful video:

If you try, you can install SMA yourself. By performing all the steps correctly, you will not only ensure correct connection and uninterrupted operation of the device, but also gain useful installation skills that you will probably need more than once.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

After purchasing a washing machine, the question arises about connecting it. The store will probably offer you the services of its own master, and on every corner you can find advertisements for specialists.

Is this really such a complicated matter that it is necessary to pay a considerable amount? In fact, for a person who knows what an adjustable wrench and FUM tape are, there is nothing supernatural about this. Just keep in mind that installing it yourself often voids the warranty, so it’s worth weighing the pros and cons.

If you decide to do the work yourself, then let's figure out how to install a washing machine according to all the rules.

Before you go to the store, think about where you will place it. Measure the depth, width and height of the selected location, adding at least 1 cm on all sides (correction for uneven walls). Agree, the situation when the equipment is physically unable to stand on the prepared area cannot be called pleasant.

The most common options for the location of automatic machines are:

Bathroom

It is convenient because most of the communications are nearby. In addition, the device fits harmoniously into the surrounding space. To save space, the machine can be installed under the sink. Then you will have to choose a special form of plumbing with a drain in the back.

However, experts do not recommend placing the machine in the bathroom if there is an alternative, since in conditions of high humidity the parts wear out much faster and rust appears.

Kitchen

Also, all connection nodes are located nearby, there is no need to re-equip anything additional. If you think through the design of the headset in advance, you can install a built-in washing machine or hide it behind one of the cabinet doors.

There are disadvantages here: increased humidity and temperature effects from the stove and oven. Therefore, it is recommended to install the device away from heating devices.

Toilet

Some originals manage to install the unit even in a small toilet. In this case, the machine is located above the toilet.

This option requires special preparation and thoughtfulness: you need to be confident in the strength of the walls, install a reliable podium, and provide a vibration damper.

Corridor

The location in the hallway is more common in desperate situations, when there is simply nowhere else to put the equipment.

The location has few positive features: communications have to be delayed, equipment takes up a lot of space, noise can be heard in all rooms.

Lumber room

If you have a storage closet in your home, you can try converting it into a laundry room. This way, the washing machine will not interfere with anyone, and will be preserved better.

Some houses have special rooms that are designed for washing. If you are the lucky owner of such an apartment, well, congratulations, you are lucky.

Basement

Such placement is possible in a private house, provided that the basement is heated and has electricity, water and sewerage installed.

If all requirements are met, this arrangement is very advantageous: the unit is not exposed to moisture, and its operation is inaudible for residents.

When the choice in favor of a certain room is made, you should think about the surface on which the machine will be located. The floor in this place should be hard and level.

Small differences in height can be corrected with the help of screw-in machine legs or a rubber mat, but they cannot compensate for strong unevenness. Therefore, if the installation is carried out on a wooden or uneven floor, then it makes sense to think about filling the area under the device with a concrete screed or installing a pallet.

Getting to know the instructions

Before you start working with the automatic machine, read the instructions! It contains a lot of useful information: what kind of outlet should there be, how to connect the drain and water supply, how to adjust the position of the unit, what malfunctions occur most often and whether you can fix them yourself, and much more.

Reading technical documentation is a separate step, since rarely does anyone turn to the manufacturer's prompts before a problem arises. This is usually only done if something doesn't go according to plan. You shouldn't do that.

The instructions provide detailed recommendations regarding the model of your washing machine, compliance with which will prevent many troubles. Do not ignore the manufacturer's advice: in the event of a breakdown, failure to follow them may result in your case being considered non-warranty.

Preparation of communications

The washing machine is connected to three systems: sewerage, water supply and electricity.

Sewerage

There are several varieties possible here:

Siphon under the sink - you need to install a splitter to the drain running under the sink. It will have an outlet for the washing machine hose.
Directly to the sewer - in this case, you will have to make a special outlet in the pipes or attach a tee when approaching the sink or bathtub.
In the toilet or sink - the simplest and most unreliable option. Using a hook, the hose is hung on the plumbing fixtures, and the water flows out freely after washing.

Water supply

Most often, the machine is connected to cold water, and the device itself, using heating elements, heats it to the required temperature. However, some models provide connection to both cold and hot water.

This reduces electricity consumption, but increases the cost of hot water supply. In addition, such water often contains impurities and rust, which can lead to damage. And the units are more expensive. Therefore, the most common option remains connecting to cold water.

It is quite simple to install an additional outlet for water on polypropylene, metal-plastic and plastic pipes. A tee with one transition to metal should be installed. If there is a free outlet on the water supply pipes, great, the task is greatly simplified! All that remains is to install a shut-off valve.

You can install the simplest ball one. At the same time, do not forget to apply sealant and flax tow. There is an alternative option: a tee with a built-in tap. They are designed specifically for washing and dishwashing appliances. It is more convenient to install such a part, but if one of the parts fails, you will have to change the entire element, and they cost a lot.

Electricity supply

For correct and safe operation, the machine is connected to a separate grounded outlet. Please be aware that if there is no grounding, the manufacturer's warranty on the unit will no longer apply.

It must be located in close proximity to the device, since connecting extension cords or straining the wire is not allowed.

If there is no outlet that meets the stated requirements, contact an electrician. It will extend a separate power supply line from the panel with the required current parameters.

Do not attempt to install the outlet yourself unless you are properly qualified!

Connection and installation

Now all that remains is to free the unit from the packaging, remove the foam protection and unscrew the shipping bolts that are located on the back of the case.

They are designed to protect the internal parts of the device from damage during transport. Place plastic plugs (included in the kit) into the resulting holes.

Do not throw away shipping fasteners. They will come in handy when you move or need to take the device to service.

The corrugated drain hose into the sewer (usually included in the kit) must be installed in the siphon outlet and secured with a clamp. If the connection is made directly to the sewer pipe, then a rubber cuff is used as an adapter.

With any connection method, it is necessary to ensure that there are no kinks or strong kinks in the hose. But a bend at 60 cm from the floor is a common requirement. This is necessary to form a natural water seal - so that water and odors from the sewer do not penetrate into the device. A plastic clamp is used for fixation.

This rule is true for devices in which the drain hose is located at the bottom of the housing; if it comes out from the top, then the bend has already been made in the inside of the device. There are also now units with a check valve, for which you do not have to create additional “elbows”. This point should be clarified in the equipment documentation.

To connect to the water supply, we use a hose that is sold with the device. The side with the curved end should be connected to the machine: install the mesh filter (included in the kit) with the convex side towards the outlet and manually screw it on. The other end is also screwed onto the water supply tap by hand. There is no need to tighten too much, since there is a rubber seal at the joints that ensures tightness.

To make it even clearer, take a look at how this process goes in the video.

Alignment

To prevent the washing machine from jumping, it is necessary to adjust its position - it must stand level. If this is not done, the internal components will quickly fail and the washing machine will have to be repaired.

To carry out the procedure, a building level is used, which is laid along each side. If there is a tilt somewhere, then you need to tighten the legs until the horizon line is perfect.

When this condition is met, try to slightly rock the machine: if it wobbles, then the adjustment should be continued.

Do not place pieces of wood, cardboard or linoleum under the legs! The device will still “move off” them.

Also, the floor should not be slippery. If the device is installed on tiles, you should lay a rubber mat or use special rubber stands for the legs.

Examination

All adjustment steps have been completed, which means it’s time for the first launch. You need to run the machine without laundry at the highest possible temperature. This will allow you not only to check the correct installation, but also to clean the inside of the device from any dirt and oil from the factory.

During the debut cycle, check all the joints: is there any dripping at the joints of the pipes, are there any leaks in the sewer hose, is the housing electrocuted, how loud is the unit, is it jumping around the room?

If any of the above deficiencies are detected, it is better to interrupt the work and immediately begin to eliminate it.

If you don’t know how to get rid of shortcomings, then stop being a hero and call a specialist. The quality of washing, service life and, of course, safety depend on the correct connection.

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated about connecting the machine. If all the necessary communications are provided and installed, then anyone can handle this task.

However, if there are any doubts, then do not try to save money - call an installation specialist. How much it will cost to work and buy a new device or pay for repairs to the neighbors below, I think, there is no need to compare.

How did you connect your washing machine: yourself or call a technician? Did you encounter any problems during the process?