Do-it-yourself low-power umzch. Transistor amplifier: types, circuits, simple and complex
If music for you is not just a collection of sounds and notes, then you simply need a device such as an amplifier for a speaker or subwoofer. True music connoisseurs, thanks to this device, set the speaker in such a way that any melody sounds fabulous and fascinates more and more every second. Moreover, it is not necessary to run to the store and spend money on buying it. It’s enough to just make an “amplifier” with your own hands. How exactly, let's figure it out.
How to make a sound amplifier with your own hands? Making the body
First, you need to prepare a case in which the entire electronic device will be protected from various mechanical damage, moisture and other negative environmental influences. Since we mentioned protection from damage in the above list, this part will be made of metal, and in order not to make the device heavier, you can use several. After this, cut the blanks and make vertical stands. As for the dimensions, the thickness of our amplifier will be about 5-6 centimeters, while the dimensions of the glass cover are 4x1 millimeters. The height of the entire stand is about 5-5.2 centimeters. When designing the body of the element, do not forget about the horizontal elements of the frame. When assembling the structure, 3-4 screws should be used as connecting elements, preferably the M3 series. In this case, it is necessary to make two squares on one of the racks, the bottom and the back wall. To do this you will need a metal jigsaw and a 1.5mm aluminum sheet. All this is then also attached to the structure using screws.
Also, in the question “how to make a speaker amplifier”, you need to pay attention to the front panel. To make it, take a strip of aluminum 5 millimeters thick and make a bar that will hide the entire mechanism. To give the device a “human” look, paint it with some paint in an aerosol can.
Pay
If you want to know how to do it right, remember that the main thing in it is not the case (although it also plays an important role in the design), but the board. And if in the first case several errors can be made, then each error in the design of the second mechanism can significantly affect the performance and sound quality of the speaker as a whole. How to make a sound amplifier with your own hands? The switching board is made as follows:
Last stages
After this, you need to take care of the board for capacitors and insulation. At the final stage, the question of how to make a sound amplifier with your own hands is accompanied by bringing the device’s control knob to the front panel. Once it is secured there, you can enjoy the melodic sound!
Especially such homemade products, which at first glance may not be easy. In this article I will tell you how to make your own homemade sound amplifier without any difficulties or financial costs.
Many beginners in the radio business know that a sound amplifier, be it in a music center or a radio tape recorder, consists of a main element, such as a microcircuit.
Integrated amplifier chips are widely used in home appliances such as televisions and computer speakers. But the fact is that the amplifier in such cases is weak, and it will cost more, since it is already assembled.
In order to assemble a sound amplifier, which by the way is powered by a 12 V power supply, you need:
Amplifier chip, purchased it at a radio store for 56 rubles
Capacitors, one 2200 µF, the other 100 µF
Fiberglass, a small piece is enough for our microcircuit
Box for the body.
Plug for connecting a tulip
Plug for sound input, from broken headphones or from computer speakers, no matter where from
Switch
Five wires
Cooling radiator
Four screws
Hot melt adhesive
Stationery knife
Soldering iron, for convenience, 20-40 watts
Rosin
Thermal paste
Varnish, solvent, hydrogen peroxide, citric acid, salt.
All the components are ready and they cost no more than 150 rubles in total, since the microcircuit can be pulled out of a TV, which is even less common on the market; an old-style TV will not have such an amplifier.
To begin with, let’s arm ourselves with fiberglass laminate, hydrogen peroxide, citric acid and salt. This entire solution must be mixed in a bowl with a wall height of 10 - 20 mm, mix in the proportion of 50 ml of peroxide per 15 grams of citric acid, add a pinch of salt there, 5 grams is enough.
The next step is to draw out the future paths of the board with nail polish. We do this carefully, wiping off the excess with solvent. Our microcircuit requires this arrangement of tracks.
We wait about 5 minutes and lower the board into the solution; on average, the board should be etched in 30-40 minutes. After time has passed, it is necessary to remove the varnish.
When the varnish has been wiped off (you can use any solvent), you need to check in the light to see if there is any displacement or errors, such as one leg sticking to another; if there is an error, this can be corrected with a utility knife.
Now the board needs to be covered with a layer of tin, first we coat the tracks with rosin, then we tin all the tracks with a soldering iron. Then we attach the microcircuit and solder it strictly to the legs. The microcircuit cannot be overheated; it may not work.
Next, you can solder the wires, first we solder the sound output, take two wires and solder them to our plug for connecting the tulip. We have one sound output.
After the sound comes out, solder a jumper between leg 4 and 7, this is a minus.
Then we solder a 100 uF capacitor to the third track.
We solder it plus to the track and minus to the other side of the track, as in the photo.
For power supply you need a filter, it will be a 2200 uF capacitor. Solder it to the plus and minus of the power supply.
We solder two wires to the power paths.
The next step is soldering the audio input plug.
At this point, the amplifier is completely ready; before installing it in the case, it is better to check it by first securing it to the radiator. After checking, you can install everything in the case. First, let's cut holes for installing the radiator using a utility knife.
The photo shows that everything fit well. Then you need to secure the radiator with four screws.
When the radiator is firmly seated, you can make holes for connecting to the speaker through the tulip and the power switch. We glue everything with hot glue. Then you can install the amplifier on the radiator using thermal paste.
Surely many would like to have a 5.1 audio system at home, but the prices for such amplifiers are often quite high. I’ll tell you how simple and not very expensive it is to assemble a 4-channel amplifier for such a system. After rummaging around on the Internet, I chose the easiest to assemble and inexpensive amplifier with sufficient power. Namely, an amplifier based on the rather popular TDA 1558Q chip. This chip itself is already a ready-made 4-channel amplifier with a power of 11 W per channel, but this power will not be enough to obtain high-quality and surround sound, so we will connect it using the bridge method, easier speaking, we pair 2 channels and get a 2-channel amplifier with a power of 22 W per channel. Thus, we take two microcircuits and end up with 4x22 watts. If we take a look at the microcircuits separately, some of the advantages include the simplest connection scheme, low price and decent power at low unipolar voltage, short circuit protection. overheating and incorrect power connection. Disadvantages: low efficiency of about 50% (High current consumption and high heating even in idle mode) Also, at peak power, the sound is sharply cut off and turns into roar.
Now let's move on to the assembly and first get acquainted with the diagram.
The circuit is extremely simple and can be assembled in 10-15 minutes; its simplicity allows it to be soldered by surface mounting. It is also worth recalling that the circuit has the thermal characteristics of an iron and requires a radiator of approximately 600 cm2 in area and either an open case or forced cooling in the form of a fan.
Here is the set of parts that I needed to assemble the amplifier.
I used two diode bridges because I used a transformer with two similar windings; usually one 8 A is enough.
Two 3.5 plugs were purchased separately for inclusion in the computer audio card.
Now I think we can move on to actually assembling the amplifier. I didn’t have a ready-made power supply and I had to assemble it myself, and I recommend that you do the same since it’s not easy to find ready-made power supplies with the necessary power reserve since at a voltage of 17 V one microcircuit consumes about 3 A even when “silent”. Also, if you disconnect the 14th pin, the amplifier will go into “Sleep mode” and the current consumption will be reduced to a couple of hundred mA
And so, first, we will find a transformer of the required power, then you can solder the rectifier yourself, but I still advise you to take a ready-made diode bridge. We take it and install it on a small radiator. (I didn't have a small one)
Then we solder the capacitors
Since I also needed to install a transformer for another device, I decided to separate the power supply from the amplifier itself.
Since I used this amplifier for a home computer, I decided to “link” turning on the amplifier with turning on the computer, how to do this is described in this article () I did not go exactly the same way as in the article I connected the relay to the yellow and black (12 V) wires coming from The power supply unit of the system unit and brought out a wire from it to the power supply unit of the amplifier. I would also like to say that the higher the voltage, the better the sound at high volume, but accordingly the heating also increases, the optimal supply voltage is 15 V, when the threshold of 17 volts is exceeded, the amplifier goes silent (While the voltage is exceeded) so if there is no sound, measure the voltage.
Now let's move on to assembling the amplifier itself. Since the circuit for connecting the microcircuit is primitive and probably couldn’t be simpler, I decided to solder everything by surface mounting.
To begin with, we attach the microcircuits to the radiator; it is first recommended to coat the connection point with thermal paste
After this, looking at the diagram, we bend the necessary contacts (14, 5, 13 - Plus power supply. 3, 7, 11 - Minus power supply. Etc.) You can bite off the excess contacts so that they do not get in the way.
After you have soldered all the necessary wires and capacitors, you need to get rid of the unreliable “fragility” (for wall-mounted installation), I recommend using hot-melt adhesive to carefully fill the contacts in such a way as to avoid a short circuit between them.
In essence, the amplifier as such is ready, i.e. he can already fully function. But I seriously doubt that anyone will be ready to decorate their desk with such a piece of hardware. And therefore a case is needed, it all depends on your imagination, I just took the case from a broken disk drive.
To begin with, I used the same hot glue to secure the plug from the disk tray and glued my LED.
The amplifier is ready. I did not install volume and balance controls for the reason that now even the most budget audio cards are equipped with excellent software for these purposes.
If we talk about the price, then everything here is not very expensive.
1. TDA1558Q microcircuits – 80 rub. 1 PC.
2. Capacitors (0.22 uF 4 pcs. 0.1 uF 2 pcs.) 35 rub. for all
3. Capacitor 25V 6800uF 38 rub. 1 PC.
4. Thermal paste 40 rub.
5. Diode bridge 1000V 8A 20 rub.
Everything was purchased in specialized radio market stores.
Good luck to those wishing to repeat!
Hello everyone, in this article we will look at the detailed assembly of the ULF (Low Frequency Amplifier) on the TDA8560. The circuit is quite simple, and this article will also differ from others in that here we will assemble the structure not by surface mounting, as is often done with specialized microcircuits, but on a printed circuit board. Although for those who are just starting to master the independent assembly of UMZCH, it is recommended to connect it “on wires” for experimentation. Anyway, let's get started. First, let's study the datasheet for the microcircuit and the circuit diagram of the amplifier itself:
We will need:
- The TDA8560 chip itself - 1 piece
- Ceramic capacitor or film capacitor - 0.47 µF (Microfarad) 2 pcs
Ceramic capacitor or film capacitor - 100 nF (Nanofarad) 1 pc.
Resistor - 22 kOhm power 0.25 W 1 pc.
Electrolytic capacitor - 1-4 µF (Microfarad) from 16V 1 piece
Electrolytic capacitor - 2200 uF (Microfarad) from 16V 1 pc.
Terminal blocks for connection (Optional)
Jack 3.5 stereo plug - 1 pc.
Heatsink 4 times larger than the chip
Specifications:
Upit.= +8...+18 V
Upp.optim.= +12...+16 V
Iconsumption max. - up to 4 A (4 ohms), up to 7 A (2 ohms)
Iconsumption average - 2 A (4 ohms), 3.5 A (2 ohms)
Iconsumption (Uin=0) = 115...180 mA
Uin.= ~40...70 mV (without R*)
Uвx.= ~0.2...4 V (R*= 20...200 kOhm)
Bit = 46 dB (200 times)
fwork.= 10...40000 Hz (-3 dB)
Kharm.=0.1% (20 W; 2 ohms; 1 kHz)
Rload.=1.6...1b Ohm
Amplifier frequency response
Let's start assembling the device and first etch out the board, PCB file .
We solder the microcircuit itself
We solder ceramic capacitors at 0.47 mF
Let's solder a 22 kOhm resistor and a 2200 µF electrolytic capacitor
Akhtung! Do not turn on the device without a heatsink! We connect the speakers and start... It started for me the first time, because I soldered it without errors and the chip was working.
This amplifier microcircuit is almost no different from its companions, such as TDA8563, TDA1555, TDA1552 And TDA1557. The only difference is in the output power - the connection is absolutely the same. You can watch a video of this chip in action below:
Video of UMZCH work
The amplifier's power supply can be taken ready-made from a computer. Since it will have more than enough power, you can even turn off the cooler, it will still not overheat. I assembled the circuit Boil.
Discuss the article DIY SOUND AMPLIFIER
We make a simple sound amplifier with our own hands. We will need the following:
1) Coil: L1 5 µH
2) Resistors: R1, R3 2.2 kOhm; R2,R5 22kOhm; R4 680 Ohm; R6 2.2 Ohm; R7 10 Ohm.
3) Capacitors: C1, C4- 4.7 uF-25V; S3-22 uF-25V; S3-22 uF-25V; C5-0.47 uF-25V; C6, C7-1000 uF-35V.
4) Chip: DA1 TDA2050
Also for soldering you need to purchase: a ceramic soldering iron, solder, fiberglass, ferric chloride, flux (rosin), a speaker (to check the functionality of the amplifier), 10 V power supply (“crown”), wires, connector, radiator (at first the microcircuit will not heat up strongly, but it is still recommended to install cooling), glossy photo paper.
Now comes the fun part, preparing for work. Here is a diagram of our device:
Now we need to make the layout, which is easiest to do in the sprint layout program. After the layout is ready, we print our layout on photo paper (the printer must be laser!). Then we place the printed fragment on our board and iron it for 5-10 minutes. Then we lower it under water and peel off the paper with light movements. Now we need to etch the board. To do this, take ferric chloride and add it to slightly warmed water and dip the board into it (under no circumstances use dishes intended for eating!) The etching process takes from 10 minutes to 5-8 hours, it all depends on the amount of solution and temperature water. After the board has been etched, we peel off the paint layer, as a result of which our traces will become copper. Now we just have to solder the elements. First, let's drill holes for our elements, after which it is recommended to lubricate the tracks with flux. After this, we insert all the elements according to the diagram and solder them. At this point, our work enters the final stage, testing for functionality.
By connecting the power, speaker and connecting the jack to a device with a 3.5 mm jack, you will hear your favorite music. For convenience, you can come up with a housing for your device; you can see an example of a housing below.
