Wheels: what do you need to know when choosing? Choosing wheels for a car
The choice of designs for cast and forged wheels is so extensive that it is almost impossible to go through all the options. A good store will offer products from 40–50 different companies.The choice of designs for cast and forged wheels is so extensive that it is almost impossible to go through all the options. A good store will offer products from 40–50 different companies.
Spring mood
In the spring, as my visit to the tire fitting approached, I again thought about purchasing an additional set of rims. In Moscow, they charge 400 rubles for changing the shoes of one 15-inch wheel (you can find more expensive ones - no question). A set - 1600, two re-shoes per year (summer-winter) - 3200. And this is the price of a good alloy wheel.
That is, the purchase of the kit will be paid for in four years. Of course, provided that I change the wheel assembly myself using a jack, a wheel wrench and magic words. Performing such an operation twice a year is lazy, but acceptable. If it’s completely unbearable, you can re-install the wheels at the same tire shop. Transferring is significantly cheaper than mounting and dismantling tires on rims - 100 rubles. per wheel. It won't ruin you.
"Casting" and "forging"
Wait, why alloy wheels? In general, let's first look at the definitions. Stamped - that is, steel, in many cases (in mine too) these are unsightly wheels of the first configuration for inexpensive cars. Many are embarrassed by their appearance and cover them with plastic caps.
It is logical to combine cast and forged into one group called “light alloy wheels”, mentioning that magnesium alloys in this field are generally preferable to aluminum alloys. But then divide them back, since their manufacturing technologies (and, accordingly, the price) are different. Cast ones are poured into a mold, then processed on machines. Forged, despite the name, do not forge - they use a type of hot stamping. At the same time, forged ones combine some of the advantages of stamped and cast ones. They are stronger than cast ones, which allows them to be made lighter. And, like stamped ones, they are quite elastic - they tend to bend rather than crack. If you’re going to invest in improving your car or simplifying its maintenance, then it’s better, of course, to invest in forged ones. Although this is the most expensive option.
The agony of choice
None of my personal cars have ever had alloy wheels. And problems with stamping deformation arose (quite regularly) only on Tavria in memorable times, but this was generally the Achilles heel of the Ukrainian machine. Problems were treated simply and elegantly - with a hammer. What is easy to bend is not difficult to straighten. In those days, the services of qualified mechanics were not sought for such trifles. Therefore, it is generally not clear to me at what point and why light alloy wheels suddenly became fashionable and so in demand? More marketing scams?
Of the entire list of advantages of alloy wheels, I unconditionally accept only high corrosion resistance and aesthetic appearance. The huge selection of “castings” on the shelves (some believe that the wealth of choice is a definite plus) is rather a disadvantage. My eyes are too wide. There are about a dozen of world-famous companies alone (OZ Racing, Momo, Enkei, Dotz, Fondmetal and others). But world famous brands are always more expensive than local ones (read budget ones). How to choose from locals? What to compare with what? You will not find any complete data. Every manufacturer praises their product. At best, the seller will recommend something. And the pressure will most likely be on world-famous names.
Meanwhile, the sellers themselves warn that the field of light-alloy wheels is full of low-quality counterfeits passed off as original products. Sometimes it can be identified at suspiciously low prices. But sometimes the price is as it should be. It turns out that all this is pigs in pokes?
Plus to minus
What do sellers of alloy wheels like to entice? In addition to the beautiful appearance, the beneficial reduction of “unsprung mass” will certainly be mentioned. This is a really important design parameter (especially for racing cars and sports cars). You may be told that lightweight wheels will improve the ride and driving dynamics, handling and stability of the car, and make life easier for all suspension and transmission parts, engine and brakes. And at the same time they will reduce fuel consumption - after all, a light wheel is easier to turn than a heavy one.
There is indeed an engineering justification for all this, but all these improvements are so microscopic on the scale of a production car that the average driver will not feel the difference at all when switching from stamping to “casting” or vice versa. Neither on dynamics, nor on fuel consumption, nor on handling.
Forged wheels usually have only two disadvantages: they are very expensive and there is much less design variety than cast wheels. And they often forget about the third: the disk is too durable. There is some risk that in the event of a strong impact, it will not absorb part of the energy, as a stamped (bent) or cast (cracked) one will do, but will lovingly transfer all of it to the suspension, steering mechanism and drive shafts. At least that's how it works in theory.
The main disadvantage of alloy wheels is widely known and understood: low maintainability. If the circumstances are unfortunate, the cast disc may collapse to death. In those cases where repair is possible, its cost may not be far from the cost of a new disk. It is not always possible to find another exactly the same new disc in the store to replace the one that was killed (the assortment is updated very quickly), and many generally sell alloy wheels not individually, but only in sets.
We would like to add that the aesthetic cutouts of light-alloy wheels like to get filled with slush or mud (when driving through thick mud), after which they harden. Wheel experts complain that stuck-on dirt is difficult to remove and its residue disrupts the wheel's balance. In short, alloy wheels are only good for quality roads.
I often drive along classic Russian roads, and I don’t like such prospects. And here’s what I think: if you’re going to buy another set of disks, then let them be normal stamped steel ones. They will fight back not in four, but in two seasons. I already have some nice plastic hubcaps. We just have to wait until next spring.
Alloy wheels are one of the most popular types of light-alloy car wheels among both motorists and manufacturers. Such wheels are not only reliable in operation, but also have an original appearance, which adds individuality to any vehicle.
1. Disk settings
Before purchasing alloy wheels for your car, you should find out and understand their parameters so that the selected model exactly matches the make of the vehicle.
The following are distinguished: parameters of alloy wheels:
Disc rim width or seat width (inches)– is determined by the distance between the inner sides of the side edges of the cast disk. It is important that the seat width matches the width of the tire, otherwise it will affect the driving characteristics of the vehicle and can even lead to tragic consequences.
Wheel rim diameter or mounting diameter (inches)– is determined by the diameter of the annular part of the rim, but does not take into account the height of its edges. This indicator should be comparable to the inner diameter of the tire.
Diameter of mounting holes (PCD), mm– the parameter is determined depending on the number of mounting holes and the distance between them. To calculate this indicator, it is necessary to multiply the distance between the holes by a coefficient corresponding to their number (for 3 holes use a coefficient of 1.155, for 4 - 1.414, for 5 - 1.701). Under no circumstances should you install disks with a PCD value that differs from the normal value for each car brand, since the fastening bolts will be tightened skewed, which will prevent proper centralization.
Central hole diameter (DIA), mm– a parameter that determines the degree of compliance of the alloy wheel with the car. This diameter should be equal to the diameter of the landing cylinder located on the vehicle hub. Their exact alignment will ensure perfect wheel alignment. Often manufacturers, trying to make discs as universal as possible, produce a product with a specially large central hole diameter. In this case, special adapter rings are used for alignment.
Disc offset (ET - Germany, DEPORT - France or OFFSET - other countries), mm– is determined by the distance between the disk mounting plane (mount) and the rim symmetry plane (an imaginary line dividing the rim exactly in the center). This parameter may not be included in the disc labeling, as it is not mandatory. But the disc offset must comply with the instructions for the car, because the load on the suspension and turning mechanism depends on it.
Number of humps– this is the number of protrusions on the rim of the disk where the tire lands. They are designed to securely secure the tire beads while driving.
X-factor, mm– conditional parameter, which is determined by the distance between the disk mounting plane and the surface of its internal part. The presence of such space makes it possible to install the disc on a car in which the brake system protrudes beyond the mounting plane.
The parameters of alloy wheels can be found out by looking at their markings. Let's look at an example of markings applied to a cast wheel: 7½ J x 17 H2 3x120 ET30 d51.7, where 7½ is the seat width of the wheel rim; J – denotes the profile of the rim flanges (in addition to this option, JJ, JK, K, B, D, P are often found in rims for passenger cars); 17 – disk mounting diameter; H2 – indicates the presence of humps on the rim of the disc and their number. 3x120 is the number of holes for fasteners and their location diameter (PCD). ET30 – disc ejection. d51.7 – diameter of the central hole of the disk (DIA).
2. Advantages and disadvantages of alloy wheels
Like any other product, alloy wheels have their advantages and disadvantages. Among benefits alloy wheels:
The weight of alloy wheels is approximately 15-20% less than the steel version, which helps reduce pressure on the vehicle's chassis system, add smoother driving, reduce shock loads on the suspension and improve performance.
Excellent thermal conductivity of the discs, which eliminates overheating of the car's brake system.
Thanks to the coating of the disc surface with an oxide layer, it is reliably protected from corrosion.
An original appearance and an unlimited selection of designs and casting patterns, which allows any motorist to find wheels to suit his taste.
High precision is observed during production, which ensures perfect balancing, and this reduces wear of bearings, tires, hubs and increases driving comfort.
Among shortcomings alloy wheels:
A high percentage of defects in production, since products are produced in large volumes.
High degree of fragility (if there is a strong impact, alloy wheels can simply split or crack).
Unsuitable for repair (although repair services for alloy wheels exist, but in very limited quantities and at a high cost).
You can rarely find alloy wheels on sale individually, since they are mainly sold as a set. Therefore, if one disk breaks, the car owner will most likely have to buy a whole new set.
As for the cost of alloy wheels, it is impossible to attribute it to advantages or disadvantages, since it all depends on what to compare with. For example, compared to stamped wheels, the price of castings may seem overpriced. But compared to forged options, the cost of casting is relatively affordable.
3. Countries and manufacturers
Alloy wheels are produced in many countries around the world. As for the amount of casting exports to the world market, the leader in this area is China. But most of the discs produced in China are fakes and replicas of well-known brands from other countries.
If we judge the reliability and originality of alloy wheels, then by this criterion the leaders are the USA, Italy, Germany and Japan. Let's look at a few examples of well-known brands from these countries that have proven themselves to be the best and have received recognition from motorists all over the world.
Alloy wheels production Germany:
BBS is a company whose products have already become a legend, although it has only been operating since 1970. And it gained its fame thanks to alloy wheels for motorsport. BBS products are supplied to the assembly lines of such automakers as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, Maserati, RollsRoyce, Jaguar and others. Retro-style wheels are especially popular among customers.
ALUTEC - the casting of this manufacturer, which appeared in 1996, is recognized by many experts as the strongest and lightest thanks to its secret production technology.
Alloy wheels production Italy:
OZ Racing is a company founded in 1971, and to this day remains one of the leaders in the development and production of alloy wheels for racing cars and production cars. The philosophy and advantages of this manufacturer's products lie in the experience gained in many international races (for example, Formula 1). This brand pays great attention to the style and appearance of its castings.
Arcasting – founded in 2001, the company now occupies one of the leading positions in the production of alloy wheels. This brand produces many wheels with fashionable designs and impeccable quality. As for quality, in 2003 the manufacturer received a certificate from the International Organization for Standardization 9001/2001. What else can serve as a guarantee of confidence in this company?
Alloy wheels production USA:
ADV.1 is a luxury manufacturer that makes its products only to order. This ensures a perfect fit for each individual vehicle make. The brand's philosophy is to move away from templates in the design of alloy wheels and take into account the individuality of customers.
Rotiform - disc models from this manufacturer are distinguished by their futuristic design, variety of shapes and colors. Wheels from this brand are especially popular among designers and studios that tune and “pump up” cars.
Vossen is a manufacturer of exclusive alloy wheels that has been striving to provide motorists with unsurpassed quality and unusual design for 25 years. Thanks to this company, concave models of alloy wheels have become popular. The brand's philosophy is the pursuit of innovation.
Alloy wheels production Japan:
WaldInternational is a manufacturer specializing in tuning premium cars. Now the company is widely known outside of Japan and is one of the trendsetters in the world of tuning. Separately, the company develops entire product lines for each customer, including Bentley, Lexus, BMW, RangeRover.
Enkei – now the discs of this company, founded in 1950, are popular not only in their homeland, but also far beyond its borders. It specializes in the production of wheels for racing, rallying, drifting, and everyday driving.
4. What is the difference between cheap alloy wheels and expensive ones?
Today the choice of alloy wheels is simply huge. Just like the assortment, the range of prices for discs is also huge.
The price of a disc includes the cost of production, the cost of delivery to the consumer, a fee for a trademark and, in some cases, a marketing component.
Sometimes a high price is not a guarantee of quality products, just as a low price is not always a guarantee of fakes and low-quality discs. Therefore, when choosing disks, we strongly recommend that you study reviews on the Internet and watch videos of operational tests, as otherwise you may stumble upon low-quality products.
Let's try to find out the difference between expensive alloy wheels (from well-known brands, excluding the option of fakes) and cheap ones.
1. Expensive disks are perfectly centered and have impeccable geometry, which cannot be said about all the cheap options, among which there are sometimes even crooked ones.
2. For expensive discs, their quality is monitored at all stages of production, so by overpaying money, the buyer can have no doubt about the quality of the product. Cheap discs are often simply poured into molds and waited for the metal to harden, which is why cases of poor quality are not uncommon among such products.
3. Each well-known manufacturer of expensive alloy wheels has its own alloy recipe, which has been developed and improved over the years. And in cheap models they can use a monoalloy of aluminum. And although it is strong, it is fragile.
4. The external design of expensive alloy wheels is impeccable: the surface is perfectly smooth, and the painting is done with high precision and using high-quality paint. In cheap options, the paint may peel off after several trips.
5. The performance characteristics of expensive models are characterized by good resistance to external influences and shock. Cheap options are only suitable for use on a flat surface, as otherwise they will quickly crack.
6. The service life of expensive disks is much longer (they last for decades) than cheap ones; in addition, expensive models are guaranteed without any problems.
7. Expensive wheels do not harm the environment, since their production complies with all environmental legislation.
8. The image created by expensive discs cannot be compared with the image created by cheap options. A good car will look more harmonious with expensive castings from famous brands.
5. Nuances of choice
When choosing alloy car wheels, the buyer should consider the following aspects:
Car make and model;
Compliance of disks with the required sizes;
Possible operating conditions. alloy wheels:
The most correct decision would be to purchase alloy wheels made specifically for a specific car brand. In this case, these disks will be ideal and there will be no problems with their installation. But this option is not always acceptable for a motorist (for example, he may not like the design), so some nuances of choice should be taken into account.
Nuances of choice
Before purchasing castings, you need to find out in what conditions the discs will be used, since the external environment will significantly affect their safety. Harsh operating conditions lead to scratches and peeling paint.
Alloy wheels are typically made from either an aluminum alloy or a magnesium alloy, each of which has its own advantages. Aluminum is lightweight and not sensitive to corrosion, but has low ductility, which is why it often cracks. Magnesium is more flexible, but has other disadvantages. Which alloy to choose depends on the client's needs and preferences.
It is worth paying attention to the design of the discs and taking into account that they will need to be washed, and fancy shapes are much more difficult to wash than simple ones.
We must remember that the warranty only applies to alloy wheel models that were selected in accordance with the instructions for the car.
Before purchasing, you should definitely check for a quality certificate not only from the manufacturer, but also domestic.
Experts do not recommend using alloy wheels in winter.
You should not choose the cheapest casting options.
6. What tires should I wear?
Typically, a motorist selects alloy wheels to match an existing set of tires. But it also happens that tires need to be selected after purchasing cast structures.
The main rule that must be remembered when choosing tires for wheels is that the tires must match the size of the alloy wheels and fit perfectly on them. If the tires are too large for the rims, their operation will be problematic. And, if they turn out to be very small, then their installation will be problematic.
If the wheels you choose are expensive and from a well-known brand, then the right decision would be to buy the same tires for them. In order not to make a mistake in your choice, we recommend visiting thematic automotive forums and websites, where you can read the available information or ask your questions.
Often manufacturers of alloy wheels or Distributing companies immediately recommend tires for them, and some even produce them themselves. This option makes life much easier for the motorist, because you won’t have to worry about selecting tires in addition to wheels.
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Properly selected wheels mean road safety and rational fuel consumption, increased transmission service life and a stylish look for your car.
Wheels are divided into two main groups: steel and alloy.
Steel stamped wheels consist of a rim and a disc welded to it. These parts are made by stamping from sheet steel and are connected to each other by resistance spot welding. After this, the discs are painted.
This method of making disks is simple and inexpensive. A large number of cars are equipped with steel wheels as standard from the factory. Installation of alloy wheels by the manufacturer on a car is usually an option. Although, recently, this trend has been decreasing in favor of alloy wheels.
Durable and inexpensive steel disks have high impact strength, so during strong impacts they do not split, but are deformed, which makes it possible to restore them even in cases of very strong crushing of the edges.
The main disadvantages of stamped disks are their large mass, which is not possible to reduce, because with a smaller wall thickness the strength characteristics are reduced, the tendency to corrosion if the protective coating is damaged, the uniform appearance and low manufacturing accuracy (and, therefore, possible problems with balancing). The large weight of the disc negatively affects the dynamics of acceleration and braking of the car, the performance of the suspension and driving comfort.
Alloy wheels They have unlimited design possibilities, high precision manufacturing, excellent heat removal from the brake unit, but most importantly, they are lighter than steel discs. These are general advantages. It is possible to specifically judge their pros and cons only by taking into account the method and alloy they are made from. There are many nuances here, the wheel is different.
Alloy wheels are made by casting or forging from high-strength alloys based on aluminum, magnesium or titanium. Magnesium and titanium wheels are lighter and stronger than aluminum, but magnesium is less resistant to corrosion, so magnesium wheels need to be coated with multiple layers of protective coatings, while titanium is too expensive. Therefore, they are used on very expensive, prestigious, or tuned sports cars that are not intended for everyday driving.
Cast aluminum wheels are approximately 15 - 30% lighter than steel wheels, depending on the design. This is their main advantage, since when installing such discs the weight of the unsprung parts of the car is reduced.
This means that when driving over uneven roads, the smoothness of the car improves by reducing vibrations and the life of suspension and transmission parts increases by reducing the loads acting on them.
Lightweight wheels quickly restore contact with the road surface when hitting an obstacle, which increases vehicle stability and controllability at high speeds.
Reducing the weight of each wheel by 1 kg is equivalent to lightening the body by 15-20 kg; this also has a positive effect on the dynamics of the car, since acceleration and braking require less force, which ultimately leads to an increase in the service life of the engine, transmission, braking system and to reduce fuel consumption.
In addition, discs made of light alloys provide better cooling of the brake mechanisms, firstly, due to the high thermal conductivity of the materials, and secondly, the ability to make a disc with very large holes (without loss of rigidity) and directed blades, which, when the wheel rotates, drive air to the brake .
Cast wheels are stronger and stiffer than stamped steel, they absorb impact better and retain their shape, but are less ductile because they have a granular internal structure. In the event of a very strong impact, the disc is not deformed, but splits, beyond the possibility of repair. In addition, a cast disc requires serious surface protection; without this, it quickly becomes covered with a whitish oxide film, which, on the one hand, is protective, but, on the other hand, spoils the presentation.
Forged wheels are produced by hot die forging on presses of unique capacity - over 10,000 tons. This technology makes it possible to obtain wheel rims of record strength and low weight, since the metal acquires a multilayer fibrous structure as a result of forging. Forged wheels are 20 - 30% lighter than traditional cast wheels. In contrast, forged wheels do not burst under strong impacts, but bend without cracking. In this case, the blow must be very strong.
The corrosion resistance of a forged disc is significantly higher than that of a cast disc, which means that the requirements for surface protection are lower. Their disadvantages include high cost due to extremely expensive production equipment, and a limited number of models.
"Liquid forging", or high pressure casting. This technology is used by many Japanese companies. During production, presses of lower power are used than for forging (3000 - 5000 tons), this makes it possible to achieve a fine-grained metal structure and reduce production costs. And in terms of their strength properties, liquid forged wheels are significantly superior to cast ones, but do not reach the same level as solid forged ones.
Composite disks- a compromise between cast and forged - an attempt to reduce the shortcomings and emphasize the advantages of both. Wheel parts are made using different technologies, for example, the rim is forged, the disc is cast. They are connected with bolts, usually titanium, since steel fasteners are susceptible to electrochemical corrosion. Wheels with bolts are now in fashion, so many companies produce solid wheels with short false bolts that are purely decorative. To distinguish such a wheel from a prefabricated one, you should look at the disk from the back side. With a solid cast, the transition boundaries from the rim to the disc are continuous, without a seam. Prefabricated wheels probably do not have any technical advantages over solid cast ones. False bolts only increase the weight of the wheel, and they can also get lost, especially on our bumpy roads.
Thus, the choice of wheels for a car should be determined by your needs and the amount in your wallet. If you want to give your car a modern, stylish look, improve handling, smoothness, acceleration and braking dynamics, then your choice is cast alloy wheels. If you are involved in motorsports or love tuning, you should purchase forged wheels. And for car enthusiasts who value reliability, but are not ready to shell out a hefty sum for a set of alloy wheels, stamped steel wheels are suitable.
To choose the right disk, you need to know the following parameters: width and diameter of the disk, number and location of mounting holes, vehicle hub diameter, offset.
This is what the wheel design looks like
Installation dimensions can be determined from tire and wheel selection catalogs, or by direct measurement. Both should be done in specialized stores.
Disc diameter is selected according to the recommendation of the manufacturer of your car and corresponds to the tire diameter. Recently, there has been a strong trend towards increasing the mounting diameter: cars that have standard 15-inch wheels, for example, are being converted to 16-inch, 17-inch and even 18-19. This is explained by the desire to use low-profile tires, since their driving qualities are better, although comfort suffers, the likelihood of damage to the wheel rim increases, and the load on all suspension components and wheel bearings increases. You yourself must find a compromise between sport and comfort.
Rim width. The permissible deviation of the rim width from that recommended in the catalog is 0.5 - 1.0 inches for disks with a mounting diameter of up to 14 inches; and 1.0 - 1.5 inches - for disks with a diameter of 15 inches or more. It is better, of course, to choose a disk of standard width. The use of either too wide or too narrow rims relative to the width of the tire profile (see figure) is undesirable, since this violates the design profile of the tire (the sidewalls are either compressed by the rim flanges or stretched on it), which deteriorates its driving characteristics — response to turning, resistance to slip, lateral rigidity.
There is also a “folk” way to select the width of the disk.
tire tread width - 20% = rim width
For example: 195/65R15;
width 195 mm - 20% = 156 mm;
divide by 25.4 (1 inch = 25.4 mm) = 6.1 inches, round to the nearest standard value, we get 6 inches - a rim of this width is needed for a 195/65R15 tire.
You need to understand that this method is not optimal and can only be used if it is not possible to use the catalog, because when determining the width of the rim, car manufacturers take into account not only the width of the tire tread, but also the profile height, dimensions and weight of the car, and etc.
Diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes are located— PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter). For example, PCD100/4 means that this diameter is 100 mm, and the number of holes is 4. It is impossible to install disks with a violation of the PCD diameter - this will lead to the fact that of all the nuts or bolts, only one will be fully tightened, while the remaining holes “ will lead away,” and the fasteners will remain untightened or tightened skewed, and the fit of the wheel to the hub will be incomplete. While driving, such a wheel will “beat”, in addition, not fully tightened nuts will unscrew by themselves.
In addition, the disk is selected according to the diameter of the central hole(if the error is minus, you cannot put the wheel on the hub) and according to the characteristics of the mounting holes: tightening the bolts (nuts) “to a plane,” “to a sphere,” or “to a cone.”
Wheel offset (ET)- this is the distance between the longitudinal plane of symmetry of the rim and the mounting plane of the wheel. The offset can be zero, positive, or negative. The offset is indicated, for example, ET30 (mm), if its value is positive, or ET-30, if negative, or in the words OFFSET, DEPORT.
The larger the ET value, the deeper the disc “sits” in the wheel niche. The lower the ET, the more the disc protrudes outward from the wheel well. Therefore, car owners often strive to reduce disc overhang.
On the image: On the left is a wheel with a standard offset ET, on the right is a wheel with a reduced offset ET.
The tolerance for changes in offset is plus or minus 5-8 mm from what is indicated in the catalogue.
Of course, reducing the offset makes the wheel track wider, slightly increases the stability of the car, the car corners more confidently and takes on a stylish racing look. But at the same time, the impact of shocks from road irregularities on the steering wheel increases, and this does not have the best effect on handling. In addition, the load on the wheel bearings of the suspension increases. Tires that protrude excessively from the wheel arches will throw dirt onto the side of the body and side windows and may touch the wheel arches.
In order for the car to be not only beautiful, but also safe, you should not abuse the width of the rim and the reduced offset; it is advisable not to change the parameters beyond the specified tolerances.
On tuning and sports modifications, the offset is changed, but this is done in conjunction with a number of other changes to the car.
In any case, after replacing the wheels, taking precautions, you need to conduct a thorough test - drive the new wheels to feel how the car's behavior has changed.
And one more piece of advice. Today it is not economically profitable to have one set of wheels, because this means the need to re-align the tires during the seasonal wheel change. Firstly, for 3-4 reassemblies you will pay an amount equivalent to the cost of one disk. Secondly, each re-flashing causes, albeit small, but still damage to the tires, which after a while will begin to leak air at the joints with the disks. Thirdly, when beading, scratches on the disk are possible, which over time lead to its corrosion. Plus, there are queues at the tire shop when winter “suddenly” comes. Having two sets (summer and winter) mounted wheels can make your life much easier: you will save your time, save some money and extend the life of your wheels and tires.
In this article we will talk about how to choose the right alloy wheels, what parameters you should pay attention to, and what nuances there are when choosing and installing them.
The content of the article:
First of all, when tuning a car, car enthusiasts immediately try to install new wheels, replacing the standard wheels with alloy ones. Today there are many configurations and types of alloy wheels. Young car enthusiasts often install wheels of this type on domestic cars, and it’s true, they immediately change the appearance for the better. But the replacement procedure is not always so simple. It is necessary to select the size of the wheel arches, so that later it does not rub on the fender liners; the parameter that is responsible for this is usually considered to be the diameter.
What are cast ones made from?
The material from which the discs are made is considered very important. Nowadays they are made from titanium alloy (very rarely), aluminum or magnesium alloys. Aluminum alloy wheels are considered one of the best. Most often they can be found in expensive auto stores. They are less susceptible to corrosion and look more attractive.
Each owner chooses the design and color individually; here one can argue ad infinitum. You can pick it up both on the market and in a specialized car shop and they will show you what your car will look like with themes or other rims.
Disc material
Design is not the main thing when choosing, but what the element is made from plays a role. Based on the composition of the material, one can recognize:
- Cast magnesium - lightweight, but very sensitive to impacts and quickly cracks;
- Cast aluminum - the most optimal in terms of the combination of qualities;
- Forged aluminum - durable and lightweight;
- Forged magnesium - super strong and lightweight.
Diameter (R)
Regarding the diameter of the cast ones, you should select the best option; it is often advised to take the same diameter as the original wheels; because of this, the tire will not rub against the fender liners, the wings will not tear when turning, and even when the axle is loaded, this will not occur. problems. It is customary to measure it not in centimeters, but in inches. It is allowed to take a slightly larger diameter, but then you will have to take a smaller diameter tire. But given our roads, low-profile tires are not the best option; they will quickly ruin the wheels. If a regular disc can be welded, then a cast one, unfortunately, even after brewing it will not be enough for a long time. For a couple of thousand kilometers, or until the first good impact. It can only be welded using argon welding. The maximum that can be done is to roll the disc when it is deformed.
Departure (ET45)
In addition to the diameter, you should pay attention to the offset (ET45 is the standard), the so-called distance between the plane of the disk and the plane of the disk mounting itself. This parameter is different for each disk and can be measured from millimeters to centimeters, often denoted as OFFSET. It is worth following the recommendations for selecting this parameter. Some violate this parameter and install wider discs, this increases stability and maneuverability. But where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages; this will lead to an increase in the load on the hub bearings, an increase, since the load on the motor will increase.
Next on the list is the PCD parameter, or in other words, the diameter of the centers of the mounting holes and their number. The store will recommend which sizes will fit your car. Sometimes car enthusiasts still buy unsuitable wheels and then completely change the hub, or install special stands, this will allow them to adjust the car’s parameters to the wheels.
When installing disks, make sure that the mounting bolts are of the appropriate size; they should not be too short or too long. If they are too short, they will be cut off at the hub. If they are too long, they can press and damage the brake disc or other moving parts of the wheel.
Some manufacturers indicate the DIA parameter, the diameter of the central hole of the disk (measured from the side of the mating plane, measured in mm), often they try to select the optimal size bolts for this parameter. If the hub has not been replaced, then the auto shop will immediately tell you which bolts are best to take.
Now an example of decoding the inscriptions (technical characteristics) of all disks. Let's take an example: J5.5x14, 4x100, ET49, DIA56.6 - this means a disk 5.5 inches wide with a radius of R14 inches, with four mounting holes on a circle with a radius of 100 mm, with an offset of 49 mm and a hole diameter for the hub of 56.6 mm.
You should not replace alloy wheels at home using the old-fashioned method, as you will immediately leave marks and damage on the disks. The first thing you should do after purchasing is to install and try on the alloy wheel without a tire on the hub of your car. We remove the original wheel and install a new disk; if all the parameters have been followed, then it should look like original the first time. After installation, move it around, it should not move, there should be no play. Now we put the original wheel back on and go to the service station to change the car’s shoes.
At first, you shouldn’t immediately step on the gas and test new wheels, let them get used to it, and at the same time see how the car behaves with the new wheels.
When purchasing, many people wonder how to avoid falling for a fake. I will say that only experienced specialists can determine the quality by eye, and no one in the store will allow you to conduct a test. Usually sellers will persuade you to buy exactly those that they consider the best (this is not always the case), you should not trust them, since they are not always honest and objective. It is better to buy discs in specialized stores with a guarantee; often such stores value their reputation and will not sell low-quality goods. Do not hesitate to request documents for the discs and a quality certificate from the manufacturer.
Pictured is LEXANI FORGED 105
Popular brands worth mentioning are Asanti, Lexani, Fuel, Vellano, Rucci. Prices for discs can vary from $50 to $5000–6000. For example, such a cast wheel LEXANI FORGED 105, the cost of which starts from $1000, is often equipped with such wheels on expensive sports cars.
Video on how to choose the right alloy wheels:
Video with tips about fitting:
Geometric parameters of the disk
When choosing wheels for “ordinary” use (we do not take into account various types of tuning), we strongly recommend that you stick to the parameters that are as close as possible to the factory ones. Why is this so important? Significant changes in parameters such as width, offset, diameter and weight of the disk can affect both the safety and ease of driving the vehicle, and the service life of the chassis components. So, for example, if we talk about the diameter of the disk, then its too large value (with the same outer diameter of the wheel) will adversely affect its weight.
When choosing rims, the proverb “measure seven times” is true.
More wheel weight means more unsprung masses, which, in turn, leads not only to an increased load on the suspension, but also to a deterioration in the smoothness of the vehicle. Also, due to greater inertia, a heavy wheel follows the road profile less readily, while a lighter wheel maintains tire contact with the surface longer, improving vehicle stability. In addition, an increase in wheel weight to some extent worsens equally important characteristics - the braking and acceleration dynamics of the car. Needless to say, larger diameter wheels shod with low-profile tires are easier to damage on Russian roads.
Larger diameter wheels shod with low-profile tires are easier to damage on Russian roads
An excessive increase in wheel width coupled with wider tires to a certain extent has its advantages (the car’s susceptibility to lateral loads improves), but there are, perhaps, more disadvantages: in addition to the increase in weight, this can have a worse effect on the vehicle’s stability when driving along longitudinal unevenness. On a rut, a car with wider wheels will obviously be less stable, and its handling will become more “nervous”. But even more “harmful” is playing with the wheel’s run-in, which can worsen the situation even more: the smaller the run-out (the wheel “sticks out” more), the more the optimal wheel running-in shoulder is disrupted (most often negative), the more sensitive it becomes to irregularities steering, and the load on the chassis elements is greater. Another danger of increasing the break-in shoulder is the lack of a stabilizing torque when braking with one of the faulty brake circuits. How far can you deviate from the standard parameters? There is no clear answer, because the chassis of each car is individual and reacts to such changes differently, but changes in offset by 2-3 mm most often remain without consequences.
When choosing, don’t be lazy and “try on” the rims to the tires - this can be done in numerous tire calculators. The rim should not be too wide or too narrow: for example, for a 205/55R16 tire, the rim width should range from 5.5 to 7.5 inches, but it is better to stick to the middle ground and go with a 6.5 x 16 rim.
Case material and price
The fact that alloy wheels are lighter than stamped ones should not mislead you. As a rule, a cast disk is either similar in weight or slightly lighter than a comparable steel one. However, most often when replacing disks, car owners try to increase the diameter of the wheel, and this entails an inevitable increase in weight, which, as we have already found out, does not lead to anything good. As a rule, an increase in rim diameter by 1 inch, coupled with an increase in tire width, makes the wheel assembly heavier by an average of 20–30%. But chasing low weight is also reckless. If a tire store salesperson offers you a “cast” that is too light, be wary: little-known companies, most often of Chinese origin, often actually produce extremely light wheels that do not stand up to criticism in terms of their strength.
Documents talking about the certification of Chinese wheels often turn out to be “fake” - not only will you be tortured to “roll” such wheels, but you’ll have to look for new ones to replace the ones that burst!
Forged wheels, of course, differ for the better in this sense: they are noticeably stronger and lighter, but due to the labor intensity of manufacturing, their price is noticeably higher, and the supply on the market is poorer: only 10% of the presented wheel manufacturing companies have in their assortment of forged wheels. “Forging” has another feature: when hitting an obstacle, the disc may retain its integrity, but the sidewall of the tire will take the entire impact, which in most cases is pointless to restore. Flying into holes, as you can see, is unprofitable in any case.
In addition to many Chinese ones, discs from some Russian manufacturers, and less often from European ones, also suffer from low strength. That is why when choosing, you should pay special attention to the status and integrity of the brand. If you don’t have such confidence, then it’s time to remember the golden words of Boris Razor from the movie “Big Snatch”: “Weight is reliability!”
Price is perhaps the determining factor when choosing wheels. And when it comes to tight finances, I recommend not chasing the beauty and size of rims - it is much wiser to choose standard and affordable stampings, and the money saved is better spent on high-quality tires - in this case, the performance characteristics of the car will remain at the same level, including the stability of the wheels to breakdown and ease of straightening disks when they are deformed. The design issue is resolved by installing additional caps (either factory or non-standard). It's another matter if the budget is not limited. In this case, the choice is simplified: it is best to consider the most proven brands. It would be better if it was a light forging, but even here we do not recommend chasing a low tire profile - safety is more expensive.
Estimated prices in online stores for the most popular models of disks suitable forFordFocus 3 (PCD 5*108, Dia 63.3):
