How to install a computer cooler. Installing and removing a CPU cooler

What is a cooler? PC air cooling system

Cooler(from the English cooler) - literally translated as cooler. Essentially, it is a device designed to cool the heating element of the computer (most often the central processor). The cooler is a metal radiator with a fan that drives air through it. Most often, a fan in a computer system unit is called a cooler. This is not entirely correct. A fan is a fan, and a cooler is precisely a device (a radiator with a fan) that cools a specific element (for example, a processor).

Fans installed in the computer system case provide general ventilation in the case, the entry of cold air and the removal of hot air to the outside. This results in a general decrease in temperature inside the housing.

A cooler, unlike case fans, provides local cooling of a specific element that gets very hot. The cooler is most often located on the central processor and video card. After all, the video processor heats up no less than the CPU, and sometimes the load on it is much greater, for example, during a game.

The power supply also contains a fan, which simultaneously serves both to cool the heating elements in the power supply, as it blows air through it, and for general ventilation inside the computer. In the simplest version of a PC cooling system, it is the fan inside the power supply that provides air ventilation inside the entire case.
Helpful advice:
At least occasionally check the temperature of your PC components. This will help avoid many unnecessary problems. Now there are many free programs for this. For example, . The operating temperature of the processor should not exceed 75 degrees; the temperature of the video card largely depends on the power of the model. For expensive cards, 90-100 degrees can be considered normal temperature. The optimal temperature for a hard drive is 30-45 degrees.

In which direction should the fans in the case spin?

So, let's look at the computer ventilation and cooling scheme. After all, many beginners, when assembling a computer on their own, have the question “Where should the fan blow” or “Which direction should the cooler spin?” In fact, this is really important, because properly organized ventilation inside the computer is the key to its reliable operation.

Cold air is supplied to the housing from the front lower part (1). This must also be taken into account when cleaning your computer from dust. It is imperative to vacuum the area where air is sucked into the computer. The air flow gradually heats up and in the upper rear part of the case the already hot air is blown out through the power supply (2).

In the case of a large number of heating elements inside the case (for example, a powerful video card or several video cards, a large number of hard drives, etc.) or a small amount of free space inside the case, additional fans are installed in the case to increase air flow and improve cooling efficiency. It is better to install fans with a larger diameter. They provide more air flow at lower speeds, and are therefore more efficient and quieter than fans with a smaller diameter.

When installing fans, consider the direction in which they blow. Otherwise, you can not only not improve the cooling of your computer, but also worsen it. If you have a large number of hard drives, or if you have drives operating at high speeds (from 7200 rpm), you should install an additional fan in the front of the case (3) so that it blows air through the hard drives.

If there are a large number of heating elements (a powerful video card, several video cards, a large number of cards installed in the computer) or if there is not enough free space inside the case, it is recommended to install an additional fan in the upper rear part of the case (4). This fan should blow air outside. This will increase the air flow passing through the case and cooling all internal components of the computer. Do not install the rear fan so that it blows inside the case! This will disrupt normal circulation inside the PC. On some cases it is possible to install a fan on the side cover. In this case, the fan should spin so that it sucks air inside the case. Under no circumstances should it be allowed to blow it out, otherwise the upper part of the computer, in particular the power supply, motherboard and processor, will not be sufficiently cooled.

Which direction should the fan on the cooler blow?

I repeat that the cooler is designed for local cooling of a specific element. Therefore, the overall air circulation in the housing is not taken into account here. The fan on the cooler should blow air through the radiator, thereby cooling it. That is, the fan on the processor cooler should blow towards the processor.

On some cooler models, the fan is installed on a remote radiator. In this case, it is better to install it so that the air flow is directed towards the rear wall of the case or upward towards the power supply.

On most powerful video cards, the cooler consists of a radiator and an impeller, which does not blow air inward from above, but drives it in a circle. That is, in this case, air is sucked in through one half of the radiator and blown out through the other.

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Users who are assembling a computer on their own for the first time often have a question about how to properly install case coolers in the system unit so that the cooling works as efficiently as possible. In fact, there is nothing complicated about this, you just need to choose a suitable cooler and install it in such a way that it does not disturb the natural movement of air.

In order to properly install the cooler into the system unit, the cooler must be of the appropriate size. Therefore, measure the size of the seats on your system unit and determine the maximum size of the cooler that can be installed on them. For an exact fit, you can measure the distance between the mounting holes, as shown in the picture below.

After measurements, the cooler can be selected using the table below. It is best to choose the largest coolers that can be installed. After all, the larger the cooler, the more air it can pass through. In practice, this means that such a cooler can operate at low speeds and cool as efficiently as a small cooler at maximum speed. Which in turn allows you to reduce the noise level from the computer.

Distance between mounting holes	Cooler size
32 mm	40×40 mm
50 mm	60×60 mm
71.5 mm	80×80 mm
82.5 mm	92×92 mm
105 mm	120×120 mm
125 mm	140×140 mm
154 mm	200×200 mm
Information on cooler sizes was taken from the sites noctua.at and arctic.ac.

In addition to the dimensions of the cooler, you also need to pay attention to the type of bearing used in its design. The most affordable coolers are produced with plain bearings. This type of bearing provides low noise but has a very short lifespan. Coolers from the mid-price range are usually built using ball bearings (rolling bearings). A ball bearing has a longer service life, but it produces noticeably more noise. Coolers from the highest price range most often use a hydrodynamic bearing. This type of bearing combines the advantages of rolling bearings and ball bearings. Hydrodynamic bearings have a long service life and are very quiet.

You also need to decide in advance on how to connect the coolers. In most cases, coolers are equipped with one of the following connectors: a 3-pin connector, a 4-pin connector or a MOLEX connector (in the picture below they are from left to right). Coolers with 3 and 4 pin connectors are connected to the motherboard, and coolers with a MOLEX connector are connected to the motherboard.

If the motherboard has a 4 pin connector for case coolers, then it is best to choose a cooler with just such a connector. This connection method will allow you to adjust the cooler speed depending on the temperature of the computer, which will reduce the noise level.

Correct installation of coolers in the system unit

Once the coolers have been selected and purchased, you can begin installing them into the system unit. For proper installation, it is important to understand how the air moves inside the computer and how coolers will affect it. Under the influence of convection, hot air itself rises to the top of the case and for maximum effective cooling, coolers should be installed in such a way as to use and enhance this natural air movement, rather than resist it.

Therefore, traditionally, coolers are installed in the upper part of the case for blowing, this allows you to remove heated air from the case. And in the lower part of the case, fans are installed for blowing, as this enhances the natural movement of air from bottom to top. The picture below shows possible locations for installing coolers and the direction in which they should move air. This scheme for installing coolers in the system unit is considered the most correct.

If you ignore the natural movement of air and, for example, install a blow-in cooler in the upper part of the system, this can even increase. It will be especially bad for hard drives that receive a stream of hot air from the processor heatsink.

The process of installing a cooler into a system unit is not difficult at all. The cooler is installed from the inside of the system unit, after which it is fixed with 4 screws from the outside. When installing, it is important to ensure that the cooler directs the air in the right direction. To do this, there is usually an arrow on the cooler that indicates where the air will flow.

After installing the cooler, you need to connect it to the motherboard (if a 3 or 4 pin connector is used) or to the computer power supply (if a MOLEX connector is used).

Naturally, all these actions must be performed on a completely switched off and de-energized computer. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging components or receiving an electric shock.

Understand the efficiency of the air cooling system. Fans don't just supply air to computer components (it's not the most efficient way to cool a computer). Fans must create air flow inside the case - drawing in cold air and expelling hot air.

Examine the fan. Fans create air flow in one direction, indicated by an arrow (indicated on the fan housing). Look at the new fan housing and find the arrow on it; it indicates the direction of air flow. If there is no arrow, examine the sticker on the fan motor. The air flow is usually directed towards such a sticker.

Install fans to create proper air flow. To do this, install fans to blow in and out air. It is better to install more fans for exhaust than for injection to create something like a vacuum inside the case. This effect will cause cold air to enter the housing from any opening.

Back panel. The power supply fan located at the rear panel of the case blows air. Therefore, install 1-2 more fans on the rear panel, which will work for exhaust.
Front Panel. Install one fan on it that will blow air. You can install a second fan in the hard drive bay (if possible).
Side panel. Install a fan on it that will blow out air. Most cases only allow one side fan.
Top panel. The fan on this panel should be blowing. Don't think it needs to be set to blow because hot air rises - this will simply result in too many blow fans and not enough blow fans.

Install fans. To do this, use four screws (supplied with the fan). Fix the fan firmly so that it does not make noise. Tighten the screws so that you can remove them if necessary.

Make sure that cables (including the cable that powers the fan) do not get caught in the fan blades. Therefore, if necessary, pull the cables to the side using cable ties.
If you have trouble fixing the fan with screws, stick it to the vent using tape, and then fix the fan with screws. Do not apply tape to any components or chips. Remember to remove the tape after you have secured the fan.

Connect the fans. Connect two fans to the headers on the motherboard and the rest to the power supply (via Molex connector).

If the fans are connected to the power supply, you will not be able to control their speed (they will run at maximum speed).

Close the case. It is understood that an air flow will be created inside the case to cool the components, and an open case will not allow such a flow to be created. Remember that components in open cases cool much less efficiently.

Check the operation of the fans. If your fans are connected to the motherboard, you can check their operation by

Bathroom ventilation devices, or so-called forced exhaust, are a very useful technique for your home. Installing a fan in the bathroom will help get rid of excess moisture in the room, negating the process of condensation in winter or even in summer if natural exhaust does not work. Renewing the air masses will help avoid the accumulation of odors and prevent the development of mold on the wallpaper or the seams of finishing tiles. But first, it’s worth paying a little more attention to the types of devices and learning how to mount and secure a fan in the bathroom.

Types of fans and their features

Bathroom fans

Connecting a fan in the bathroom begins with choosing a device. Strange as it may seem, bathroom exhaust designs are not very diverse, so all types can be divided according to just two criteria:

difference in diameter. This quality is responsible for the device’s ability to quickly remove moisture and odors from the room. And you need to understand that the larger the diameter, the faster the air mass in the room will be renewed. But on the other hand, the more often the air flows are renewed, the faster the temperature in the bathroom will drop, because even though contaminated, heated air is removed. Therefore, excessive productivity in this case can not only become the cause of colds, but also result in excessive consumption of thermal energy.

Advice! Optimal performance can be determined based on established standards: a size multiple of 20 mm is considered optimal. If you measure the ventilation hole in advance and purchase the right device, installing a fan in the bathroom will be much simpler and easier. By the way, the largest diameter is considered to be 200mm, and the smallest is 20mm.

The presence of additional sensors and functions is another parameter by which all bathroom fans can be divided. Valve, blinds, timer, switch, temperature sensor, clock - there can be many functions, it’s worth understanding whether you need them. For example, a fan with a valve or blinds is good for an apartment building: after finishing work, the valve closes and prevents air from entering the apartment from the shaft. It’s just that sometimes the blinds need to be closed manually, but there are models with automatic blinds, here human intervention is not required at all. A device with a timer and humidity sensor will turn itself on/off when necessary.

Advice! A fan with a switch is not very convenient. You often have to stand on a ladder to reach the switch cord. Therefore, if there are small children in the house, installing an exhaust fan in the bathroom (with a remote switch) is not recommended.

Now that everything is clear about the types of devices, it’s time to think about how to install a fan in the bathroom.

Installation and connection

The connection diagram for a bathroom fan is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. With a little skill, a home handyman can get the job done. Of course, if you want to know how to connect a fan in the bathroom and route the wires to the apartment wiring, then you need to understand that there can only be two options: the device works together with lighting or autonomously.

To connect the structure to lighting, you need to parallel it with any lighting fixture (even a sconce in the bathroom), but if you plan to install a fan in the bathroom with a separate function assigned to a separate button, you will have to assemble a separate branch of electrical wiring.

Advice! When the wiring is already completely done, and you don’t want to ditch the walls at all, take the phase for the fan from the lighting switch. It is necessary to separate the phase using a double switch, and the “zero” in the distribution box, which is located closest. Yes, you will have to drill a groove from the switch button to the ceiling space, but only one! But all other wires and cables will be hidden in the ceiling panel or under the hanging trim.

If there is already a device at home, then it is important to know how to remove the fan in the bathroom. Often it depends on who installed the fan in the bathroom or bathroom, but the general picture is still the same:

de-energize the device;
unscrew the lid;
disconnect the wires from the power terminals;
unscrew the holding screws;
remove the fan from the shaft hole.

If the device is not screwed down, but glued along the entire perimeter of the plate, you will have to carefully break out the housing using a screwdriver and a hammer. You can remove the structure along with the cladding if you change it too. It is only important not to widen the hole in the ventilation shaft; if it is too large, you will then have to close it up or install a device with a larger diameter.

And now the main thing: how to install a fan in the bathroom and connect

Remove the cover from the device. The decorative panel is attached to a small bolt or can be opened from the side by pressing a screwdriver;
Under the cover there is one pair of terminals with wires connected;
By unscrewing the terminal screws, you then need to connect the wires already connected to the ventilation duct.

That's all. The device is connected, now you need to check its operation and enjoy clean air.

Options for installing a fan in the bathroom

You can use the fasteners offered by the manufacturer. But this often requires drilling holes in the wall cladding, which is not very convenient.
You can come up with something of your own. For example, the usual installation method is using white silicone. But we need to figure out how to keep the device in place for half an hour. Usually craftsmen use standard tape.

Advice! If the bathroom has tiles up to the ceiling and you don’t want to make holes in it to fix the fan in the duct, you can glue the device! To do this, you need to coat the back side of the panel with glue, insert the fan into the hole in the shaft, press for 10 seconds and tear it off. Wait a minute, reinsert the device into the hole and now press firmly. Now you know how to mount a fan in a bathroom that has tiles throughout the entire area of the wall panels. You can watch the installation video below.

Adjusting a bathroom fan is not difficult: if there is a speed switch, then set the required number of revolutions once and no more intervention will be required. If there is no switch, the device will operate at the set power the entire time it is turned on.

Of course, installing a duct fan, like a radial fan, is not much different. And in general, installing a forced ventilation device in a bathroom, basement or attic has many similarities, the main thing is to choose the place where to install the structure and then connect all the wires correctly. But if you tried it once, then no difficulties are foreseen in the future. If power supplies (wires) for the device have not yet been routed to the ventilation duct, take a wire with a cross-section of 0.75-1.5 square - this is the best option.

Advice! If you don't know how to handle electricity at all, don't worry. There are a huge number of rechargeable and battery-powered fans on sale. Such devices do not require any installation skills at all and can be placed wherever and however you want.

It's no secret that when a computer is running, all its electronic components heat up. Some elements heat up quite noticeably. The processor, video card, north and south bridges of the motherboard are the hottest elements of the system unit. Even with normal computer idle time, their temperature can reach 50-60 degrees Celsius. But if the system unit is not periodically cleaned of dust, then the heating of the main components of the computer becomes even greater. Increased heating leads to constant computer freezes, fans run at high speeds, which leads to annoying noise. Overheating is generally dangerous and leads to an emergency shutdown of the computer.

Therefore, the main problem of the entire electronic part of computer technology is proper cooling and effective heat removal. The vast majority of computers, both industrial and home, use heat removal air cooling. It gained its popularity due to its simplicity and low cost. The principle of this type of cooling is as follows. All the heat from the heated elements is transferred to the surrounding air, and the hot air, in turn, is removed from the system unit case using fans. To increase heat transfer and cooling efficiency, the hottest components are equipped with copper or aluminum radiators with fans installed on them.

But the fact that heat removal occurs due to air movement does not mean at all that the more fans are installed, the better the cooling will be overall. Several incorrectly installed fans can do much more harm than solve the problem of overheating, when one correctly installed fan will solve this problem very effectively.

Selecting additional fans.

Before purchasing and installing additional fans, carefully examine your computer. Open the case cover, count and find out the dimensions of the installation spaces for additional case coolers. Look carefully at the motherboard to see what connectors it has for connecting additional fans.

Fans should be selected in the largest size that suits you. For standard cases this size is 80x80mm. But quite often (especially recently) fans of sizes 92x92 and 120x120 mm can be installed in cases. With the same electrical characteristics, a large fan will operate much quieter.

Try to buy fans with more blades - they are also quieter. Pay attention to the stickers - they indicate the noise level. If the motherboard has 4-pin connectors for powering coolers, then buy four-wire fans. They are very quiet, and their automatic speed control range is quite wide.

Between fans receiving power from the power supply via Molex connector and running from the motherboard, definitely choose the second option.

There are fans on sale with real ball bearings - this is the best option in terms of durability.

Installation of additional fans.

Let's look at the main points of correct installation of case fans for most system units. Here we will provide advice specifically for standard cases, since non-standard cases have such a varied fan arrangement that it makes no sense to describe them - everything is individual. Moreover, in non-standard cases, fan sizes can reach 30cm in diameter. But still, some aspects of cooling non-standard PC cases are discussed in the following article.

There are no additional fans in the case.

This is the standard layout for almost all computers sold in stores. All the hot air rises to the top of the computer and is exhausted outward by the fan in the power supply.

The big disadvantage of this type of cooling is that all the heated air passes through the power supply, heating it even more. And therefore, it is the power supply of such computers that most often breaks down. Also, all the cold air is not sucked in in a controlled manner, but from all the cracks of the housing, which only reduces the efficiency of heat transfer. Another disadvantage is the thin air produced by this type of cooling, which leads to the accumulation of dust inside the case. But still, this is in any case better than incorrectly installing additional fans.

One fan on the rear wall of the case.

This method is used more out of desperation, since the case has only one place to install an additional cooler - on the back wall under the power supply. In order to reduce the amount of hot air passing through the power supply, install one fan that works to “blow” out of the case.

Most of the heated air from the motherboard, processor, video card, and hard drives exits through the additional fan. And the power supply heats up significantly less. Also, the overall flow of moving air increases. But the rarefaction increases, so dust will accumulate even more.

Additional front fan in the case.

When the case has only one seat on the front of the case, or there is no possibility of turning on two fans at once (there is nowhere to connect), then this is the most ideal option for you. It is necessary to install one fan on the front part of the case.

The fan must be installed opposite the hard drives. It would be more correct to write that the hard drives should be placed opposite the fan. This way the cold incoming air will immediately blow over them. This installation is much more effective than the previous one. A directed air flow is created. The vacuum inside the computer decreases - dust does not linger. When additional coolers are powered from the motherboard, the overall noise is reduced as the fan speeds are reduced.

Installing two fans in the case.

The most effective method of installing fans for additional cooling of the system unit. A fan is installed on the front wall of the case for “blowing”, and on the rear wall – for “blowing”:

A powerful, constant air flow is created. The power supply operates without overheating, since heated air is removed by a fan installed underneath it. If a power supply with adjustable fan speed is installed, the overall noise will be noticeably reduced, and more importantly, the pressure inside the case will be equalized. Dust will not settle.

Incorrect installation of fans.

Below are examples of unacceptable installation of additional coolers in a PC case.

One rear fan is set to "injection".

A closed air ring is created between the power supply and the additional fan. Some of the hot air from the power supply is immediately sucked back inside. At the same time, there is no air movement in the lower part of the system unit, and therefore cooling is ineffective.

One front fan is set to “exhaust”.

If you install only one front cooler and it works as a blower, then you end up with very low pressure inside the case and ineffective cooling of the computer. Moreover, due to the reduced pressure, the fans themselves will be overloaded, since they will have to overcome the back pressure of the air. The computer components will heat up, resulting in increased operating noise as the fan speeds increase.

The rear fan is for “blowing”, and the front one is for “blowing”.

An air short circuit is created between the power supply and the rear fan. The air in the area of the central processor works in a circle.

The front fan tries to “lower” the hot air against the natural convection rise, working under increased load and creating a vacuum in the case.

Two additional coolers are set to “blowing”.

An air short circuit is created in the upper part of the housing.

In this case, the effect of the incoming cold air is felt only for hard drives, since it then enters the oncoming flow from the rear fan. Excessive pressure is created inside the case, which complicates the operation of additional fans.

Two additional coolers work as a blower.

The most severe operating mode of the cooling system.

There is reduced air pressure inside the case; all case fans and inside the power supply operate under reverse suction pressure. There is not enough air movement inside the air, and, therefore, all components work overheating.

These are, in principle, all the main points that will help you in organizing the correct ventilation system for your personal computer. If there is a special plastic corrugation on the side cover of the case, use it to supply cold air to the central processor. All other installation issues are resolved depending on the structure of the case. We will be glad if you write your thoughts on this matter in the comments to the article.