Correct setup of the pioneer car radio. Features of sound settings for radio tape recorders from various manufacturers. Front and rear speakers

A poorly tuned car radio will prevent you from enjoying your music. Therefore, it is necessary to know, for example, how to set up a Pioneer car radio or any other before you make your first trip with this speaker system.

First, let's talk about the most important consequences of incorrect settings. Setting the parameters incorrectly often results in the speakers cracking and wheezing. Also, often the sound from the rear speakers interrupts the front, thereby destroying the feeling of integrity of the entire speaker system. Often the left front speaker is heard much better than the right one, resulting in the 3D effect of sound being lost. It is worth noting that different brands of “Pioneers” have menus that may differ slightly from each other, and some items may not be available. However, the general strategy for tuning any car radio should be as follows.

Frequency settings

Before setting up the radio, turn on your favorite song. Now use the joystick to select FADER/BALANCE. By default, the parameters here are FAD 0 and BAL 0. Set FAD to 15, thereby “moving” all the sound forward so that the sound from the rear speakers is not distracting. Now you can move on to setting frequencies.

Turn the volume up until the speakers begin to wheeze. The wheezing occurs because the system is trying to reproduce sounds that are too low. To remove the lowest bass from the passband, go to the HIGH and PASS FILTER menus. This will most likely be set to HPF OFF. Adjust it so that the wheezing disappears. Typically, for 13cm speakers, the minimum frequency value should be approximately 100 - 125 Hz. If you have larger speakers, this number can be reduced. For example, a low frequency of 80 Hz is suitable for 16 cm speakers.

Setting up the subwoofer

We have figured out the initial steps of how to set up a car radio, what to do next? After that, we move on to the settings of the rear speakers so that they work in subwoofer mode. To do this, you need to reduce the fader value (so that the sound begins to be output through the rear speakers). Then we go to the SW control item, select REAR SP and set its value to SW (that is, we instruct the rear speakers to reproduce only the bass that is lacking in the sound of the front ones).

We go to the AUDIO menu, in which we select SW SETTING. The default value is SW 80 HZ 0 (that is, the upper frequency limit for the subwoofer is 80 Hz and the power level is zero). It is recommended to set the frequency limit to 50 Hz (although it all depends on your preferences and the quality of the speakers). The power level changes in the range -6 - +6. Set it to whatever your system can handle without distorting the sound.

Balance adjustment

The operation is completed by adjusting the BALANCE balance. This parameter controls how the sound is distributed between the left and right speakers. A default value of zero for this parameter results in the volume of the left and right halves of the onboard speakers being the same. Since the driver's seat (most often in Russia) is on the left side, this leads to the fact that he hears the sound from the left speaker much better. Therefore, you need to move the balance to the right side until you no longer feel the direction from which the sound is coming to you.

This completes the basic setup of the car's acoustic system. Now you know how to set up your car radio correctly.

Installing a car radio is a creative process, but not very complicated. An experienced car enthusiast, at least a little familiar with the basics of electrical engineering, will be able to connect the car radio with his own hands without any problems. We will tell you in this article how to properly connect a radio in a car, and in what order this should be done.

It should be remembered that an incorrectly installed and connected radio will not only sound bad, but may even lead to a short circuit or even a fire in the car.

A good video instruction for installing and connecting a car radio in a car can be seen in the video at the bottom of this page.

Incorrect connection of the car radio causes the following problems:

  • When parked, the radio consumes too much electricity, as a result of which the battery is constantly discharged and if parked for a long time, there is a chance that the engine will not start.
  • When listening to music at high volumes, the radio begins to “stutter” and significant distortion of the sound signal appears. Also, at high volumes, the car radio may simply turn off.
  • When you turn off the power, the radio settings are lost.

All of these problems in 90% of cases arise due to incorrect connection.

Features of installing car radios

According to the installation method, modern car radios come in two types: built-in and stationary.

  1. Built-in car radios are usually equipped with a removable front panel or a special curtain - the devices are simple, but effectively protect the radio from theft.

  1. Stationary car radios are usually installed by car manufacturers on the assembly line. Their original shape and non-standard sizes save them from theft.

When installing a car radio with your own hands, you need to consider the following features.

Firstly, connect the radio only in accordance with the instructions. Failure to comply with this rule may lead to its failure or even fire. In this case, you should not use installation instructions for other car radios, since even the same manufacturer may have different plugs and wire markings depending on the model.

Most radios have a connection diagram on the top cover, and we will provide a typical connection diagram for a car radio below.

Secondly, you need to remember that the wiring of most domestic cars since Soviet times has been designed for the installation of radios and radios with mechanical settings, which can create additional inconvenience.

For example, in “Zhiguli” or “Samara”, regardless of the position of the key in the ignition switch, voltage is constantly supplied to the power cable of the car radio. But when you turn the key in the lock, the electrical circuit opens for a split second, which is enough to erase all settings from the memory of the radio (if it is not non-volatile).

The process of installing and connecting a car radio

The installation process for car radios of different types and manufacturers is not much different from each other. To do this, the container without a radio is installed in a standard socket and fixed by bending outward the metal petals along its perimeter.

  • In modern cars, a special ISO standard connector is provided for connecting the car radio. The whole connection in this case comes down to the fact that you will need to insert the connecting block of the car radio into the corresponding ISO connector of your car.
  • In older cars, as well as in many domestic cars, the ISO connector is not provided by design. To install a car radio in this case, you will have to purchase the appropriate connector and connect it yourself. Fortunately, the wires on such connectors are usually marked and signed.

Let's move on to connecting the car radio wires to the ISO connector. Take a look at the connection diagram below. As can be seen from the diagram, the left side of the ISO connector is responsible for powering and controlling the radio, and the right side is for connecting speakers to it.


Typical car radio connection diagram

The main step in connecting a car radio is connecting the power. It is at this stage that most mistakes are made.

Power is connected to the car radio through a separate fuse using a flexible stranded wire with a cross-section of at least 3 mm 2. In most cases, it will be enough to use a 10 ampere fuse; it will reliably protect the power circuit from emergency situations.

The radio is powered through three wires: yellow, red and black.

+12 V(yellow) – main power wire. It powers the built-in amplifier and also serves to save car radio settings. This wire is connected through a fuse directly to the battery. It is advisable that the length of the wire from the battery to the fuse does not exceed 30 cm.

ACC(red) – control of turning on the car radio from the ignition switch. On many vehicles, the ignition switches have an ACC (accessory) position. When you turn the key to the ACC position, power is supplied to the car radio, interior heater and cigarette lighter socket, but the car's ignition system is de-energized.

GND(black) – connects to the negative terminal of the battery. But this is ideal. Due to the low power of the car radio, it is allowed to connect the black wire to the car body. You must first ensure good contact with the body by cleaning the joint from dirt and oxides. You can also use contact lubricant to protect them from oxidation.

The yellow power wire may also be marked as B+, B.U., Batt.

It can be connected to the red ACC wire (bypassing the ignition switch) - this will allow you to listen to music without a key. But in this case, the radio will constantly consume current, and if the machine is idle for a long time (from several days to 2-3 weeks), your battery may run out.

The following wires are responsible for connecting acoustic speakers to the car radio:

  • FL– front left,
  • FR– front right,
  • R.L.– rear left,
  • R.R.- rear right.

When connecting the speakers to the radio, be sure to maintain the correct polarity, otherwise the sound will be of poor quality, since the acoustics in this case will work in antiphase.

In some car radios, the outputs to the speakers are duplicated with separate “tulip” type connectors - it is advisable to use them if the acoustics installed in the car have the same connectors.

It is advisable to use special speaker wires to connect speakers. They often come with a radio.

And don’t even think about connecting any of the terminals intended for connecting acoustics to the ground of the car - you will be guaranteed that the car radio will fail!

The remaining wires in the car radio are responsible for controlling additional functions and equipment.

ANT(white) – antenna control. Acts as a power source for an internal active antenna, or provides a control signal to turn on an automatic external antenna.

ILL(ILLUMINATION) – is responsible for the car radio illumination. Connects to the “plus” of the side lights power supply circuit.

MUTE– controls muting the sound from the car mobile phone kit. The sound is turned off when this pin is connected to ground.

Parking Line– found on most car DVD players. Connects to the parking brake sensor. With this connection, you will be able to watch DVD only when the car is in the parking brake.

After connecting the power, acoustics and antenna wires to the ISO connector, this entire harness is pulled inside the container so that their ends with connectors extend into the car interior at a length convenient for work (approximately as shown in the photo at the beginning of the article), and connected to to the corresponding connectors on the rear wall of the radio.

After this, the car radio must be turned on and listened to. If everything works fine, then it can be inserted into the container until it stops (the latches on the sides should work).

When installing a car radio, it is useful to know

During the process of installing and connecting a radio in a car, non-standard situations often arise that cannot be foreseen in any instructions.

So, if you use a standard car antenna when installing a car radio, then sometimes the length of its wire may not be enough. Many cars are still equipped with antennas designed to install old-style radios. Their antenna socket is located on a “tail” that is only about fifteen centimeters long.

In this case, you can try to connect the antenna blindly after connecting all other wires to the radio. If this fails, then, most likely, you will have to remove the console and insert the antenna plug by touch after installing the car radio in the container.

By the way, after about half an hour of such a “Kama Sutra,” you will probably begin to think about buying a new car radio antenna.

If it becomes necessary to remove a car radio with a removable front panel from the container, you will need to insert two flat keys included with the radio onto the sides of it until they stop. But before that, do not forget to remove the front control panel - it is usually detached with the “Release” button.

Video instructions for installing and connecting a car radio with your own hands

Cordv writes:


If we put jokes aside and talk constructively, then on my own behalf I propose the following order:

1. Cleaning the path of the tape and demagnetizing all parts of the CVL in contact with it.

2. Equalization of input and output voltages as the signal passes through the path (in the “Input” or “Source” monitoring button position) and their linking with the reference readings of the volume meter (this is nothing more than 0 dB).
The nominal input and output voltage (at which the VU meter shows 0 dB), usually normalized for professional devices, is 1.23 V (or +4 dBm; it is measured between pins 2 and 3 of the XLR connector); for semi-professionals - usually 315 mV (or -10 dBV; output on RCA connector); Among consumer equipment, there are other values, for example, 775 mV - in any case, this needs to be clarified in the manual.
Simply put, we apply the appropriate voltage from the generator to the input of the tape recorder (when setting up a professional device using a traditional sound generator, the latter must be connected to the tape recorder via an audio balancing transformer) - this is 1.23 V or 315 mV (unless otherwise indicated in the manual) with a frequency of 1 kHz and set the same voltage value at the linear output, then set the indicator reading to “0 dB”. Some recorder models do not have VU meter sensitivity adjustment - in this case, first set the input level inside the device (Input Gain) so that the VU meter readings correspond to 0 dB, and then set the standard voltage at the linear output.
I note that these adjustments are usually necessary only once at the very beginning of using the device. A mandatory check is also necessary if the device has changed owners.

3. Play the calibration tape.
We adjust the playback level and HF response to the 1 and 10 kHz test signals so that the indicator shows 0 dB on these main test tones (most manuals do not require the use of a millivoltmeter for this procedure, only a VU meter).
The calibration tape must be recorded at the desired speed, with the desired equalization standard (for 38 speed, IEC is preferable, and the machine must support or switch to this standard), and with a reference magnetizing flux that matches the working flux of the tape being used, in order to maximize its opening potential. For working with SM911 tape, the flux value is 355nWb/m, for SM900 - 500nWb/m.

4. Adjust the azimuth of the playback head.
There is a simple and accurate tuning technique without an oscilloscope using white noise recorded on a calibration tape (there are now calibration tapes that record broadband white noise). The technique consists of electrically subtracting signals at the linear outputs of the left and right channels. To do this, we connect the outputs of the tape recorder to the console (we use two mono channels, NOT a stereo pair cell), reproduce noise, set the same levels of these channels in the console, panoramas to the center, and in one of the channels we flip the phase by 180 degrees (most consoles have flip buttons phases). As a result, we will hear a characteristic decrease in the signal level. By rotating the adjustment screw of the playback head in small portions in both directions, we look for a position at which the noise practically disappears.

If you don't have a console at hand, you can use a small mixer with line inputs on TRS jacks. You will need an adapter cable in which one of the channels coming from the tape recorder is soldered upside down (just swap the “hot” and “cold” conductors soldered to the jack).

I use 250 ohm headphones connected to the left and right channels via an adapter with a broken ground.

5. Having adjusted the azimuth, it is necessary to play the 1 and 10 kHz calibration signals again and adjust if necessary, since by making mechanical adjustments we affect the electrical settings, especially the RF response!

6. And finally, here it is, the smell of freshly printed ribbon!!!
We install on the tape recorder a reel (or roll - well, as you like) of a new tape of the brand we are going to work with.

7. Adjustment of the azimuth of the recording head.
Let's connect the tape recorder as I described in step 4.
Let's apply white noise to both channels of the tape recorder, turn on the device for recording, switch the monitoring to tape and, by adjusting the input level controls on the front panel, we will achieve equal levels of the left and right channels (we will set the levels to approximately -4...-6). We rotate the adjusting screw of the recording head and achieve almost complete disappearance of noise (in this case, the azimuth of the recording head accurately falls into the azimuth of the playback head previously adjusted using the calibration tape).

8. Next, we will adjust the bias by recording to a new tape with a frequency of 10 kHz from the generator. We turn on the recording and transfer the monitoring to tape. For convenience, we will set the initial recording level to approximately -3...-6 dB using the VU meters (we will weaken the output level on the generator). We rotate the bias control from minimum to maximum and look at the indicators - at first the sensitivity of the tape will gradually increase, and from a certain point it will begin to decrease. Let's return the controls a little back to the very peak of sensitivity, then bring the recording level to 0 dB (adding the output signal level on the generator). Then we carefully and carefully increase the bias current until the sensitivity drops by a certain amount. For the SM911 brand this drop should be 3 dB, for the 900 - 4 dB for speed 38 (based on the manufacturer's factory specifications).

9. Setting up the recording itself.
Let's set the frequency on the generator to 1 kHz; monitoring - at the entrance. We set the level to 0 dB using the controls on the front panel. We turn on the recording and transfer the monitoring to tape. We rotate the recording current regulators (they can usually be designated as “Recording Level” and are located inside the device or placed in the form of small “screwdriver” adjustments on the front panel, but do not confuse them with the large regulators on the front panel!) and achieve a reading of 0 dB on indicators. Then we transfer the monitoring to the input, change the frequency on the generator to 10 kHz, adjust 0 dB on the indicator, then switch the monitoring to tape and adjust the HF recording equalizer, also achieving a value of 0 dB on the indicators. This is the basic calibration. It is also useful (especially if the tape recorder has a low-frequency equalizer) to record other frequencies in some increments, starting, for example, with 32 Hz to check the overall response over the entire frequency range. Or smoothly raise the frequency from 32 to 20,000 Hz and monitor the indicator readings (monitoring from the tape), thereby you can evaluate the unevenness of the response at certain frequencies, and in any case there will be unevenness, especially at low frequencies - this is mainly due to resonance of the playback head.

That's basically all. I typed on the keyboard for a long time, I might have missed something

The process of setting up a Pioneer car radio can be carried out by almost any car owner, since the installation method does not require special knowledge and skills, and the set of tools is minimal.
For installation and proper configuration, the owner will need the radio itself, plastic holders for installation, car wiring connectors for connection, electrical tape and adapters.

Almost all modern cars are equipped from the factory with wiring for connecting an audio system, so installation and configuration are much easier.

The whole process takes several stages:

  • To install, you need to connect the wires of the appropriate pinout. First of all, the yellow wire is connected through the battery via a fuse;
  • The red wire connects directly to the battery (you can install it through the ignition switch, then the radio will turn on only when power is supplied to the lock;
  • The black wire is connected to the body as a “minus” and serves as grounding to avoid voltage surges;
  • The blue-white wire is used to connect additional equipment to the device (radio antenna, subwoofer, amplifier);
  • The gray and black-gray wires are connected to the right front speaker (if there are speakers), respectively, to the “plus” and “minus”;
  • White and black and white are connected respectively to the left front speaker through the wiring corrugation in the door;
  • The purple and purple-black wires go to the rear right speaker and are also connected to the “minus” and “plus”, respectively;
    Green and black-green are connected to the left rear speaker, to the “plus” and “minus”.

But what it is can be understood by reading the information from this article.

You can learn more about all Pioneer car radio models from this

For those who want to learn more about how to connect an amplifier to the speakers in a car, it is worth reading the information from this

On the video - how to properly configure the pioneer deh ps900mp car radio:

Front and side volume distribution

Depending on the driver’s preferences, he can adjust the sound volume according to these parameters, increasing the sound power, for example, of the front speakers and shifting the emphasis to the left side;

The menu contains a demo mode setting in which the radio is restored to factory settings;

You can tune the selected radio station frequency or use auto-tuning;

You can also change the color of the radio backlight in the menu (most radios have this function).

A wide arsenal of functions allows you to customize the Pioneer radio (even in a budget version) individually for each driver.

Many car enthusiasts are interested in how to set up a Pioneer radio in their car. The fact is that immediately after installation, the sounds coming from the speaker are far from ideal. In most cases, it is wheezing and nothing more. But not all drivers know how to bring the audio system into perfect condition. Moreover, it is believed that modern audio equipment is independently integrated with any car, and everyone is very surprised when they find out that this is not so. In principle, the correct setting will allow you to enjoy music in its most optimal sound. This will require a little digging into the settings, but it's worth it.

How to set up a Pioneer radio in a car? The answer to this question may depend on the model of the device. All radio options with a digital designation of “1” or “2” are budget-friendly and have rather meager settings. In this article we will look at models starting from 3100. These radios have quite extensive settings, which allows you to configure them as accurately as possible, in accordance with your ideas about music.

Settings

The setup work is divided into several different points. It is advisable to go through all the settings, but it all depends on the additional equipment that is in your car. To configure the radio, turn on the volume “30”, this allows you to make the best quality sound adjustment by ear. Often, the speakers begin to wheeze, but don’t be alarmed, this will go away after the setup. When tuning by ear, it is recommended to focus on your feelings, because the perception of sound is different for all people. The work is done using a joystick; it can tilt up, down, to the side, and also retract.

The settings are made in the following order:

Switch to “AUDIO” mode, by rotating the handle we find the balance and fader. This looks like Balanse/Fader. After which, we press the joystick and see: BAL 0, Fad 0. In some cases, the numbers may differ, which means that someone dug into the settings. We translate the “fader” indicator to +15. Signals are transmitted specifically to the front speakers in this way. We return to the main menu;

Setting up the cut. We are looking for the front amplifier filter settings. This is done by turning the joystick. Find “HIGH PASS FILTER”. After pressing the joystick, you will see HPF OFF. This means that the full spectrum of sound is concentrated on the front speakers. This is the source of distortion, especially on small speakers. We press the joystick and see HPF 50, this is the designation of the lower frequency threshold. Not every amplifier is designed for this. Therefore, we increase the level to 100-150, the smaller the diameter of the speaker, the higher the threshold should be. We exit the settings and determine the purity of the sound by ear. If you don’t like it, you can go back to the settings and change the indicators;

Next, go to the “advanced settings” panel. To do this, turn off the radio, and then press the power key. This will take you to the additional menu. Turn the joystick and see what functions are there. Usually there is a language setting, a step of searching for radio stations. Find the SW Control function. We recess the control knob and switch the function to SW mode. So the rear speakers will work in subwoofer mode;

We go to the regular menu and find the Setting 1 mode. On the left there is the SW symbol, and on the right there are 3 operating modes. Choose the most suitable one from your point of view;

Find the Setting 2 mode. Here you will see SW 60 Hz 0. First you need to set the frequency, it is recommended to set it to 50 Hz. Next we adjust the sound power. Here you can select a range from -6 to +6. At the same time, we focus on the characteristics of the speakers and our perception of sound. Experiment with sound;

Setting up tone compensation. To do this, look for Loudness in the menu and enter this menu. Here it is best to choose the high (HIGT) level. This way, tone compensation will be audible even at average sound levels.

In general, the setup is completed here. Of course, there are other settings, but they are usually of interest only to music lovers. To extend the life of the speakers, it is recommended to set the level of low frequencies in the Go Setting 1 menu. It is advisable that this indicator does not exceed 1. This will significantly extend the life of the speakers.

Conclusion. Nowadays it’s hard to imagine a car without a high-quality audio system. At the same time, it is extremely important to adjust it correctly, otherwise the sound will be very bad. Therefore, it makes sense to wonder how to set up a Pioneer radio in a car. In fact, this is not particularly difficult. The menu is simple and clear, which makes the task much easier. The right combination of different settings will allow you to make the sound in the car most consistent with your perception.