Broken train. Soldering damaged flex cable tracks

Cables are a type of wire that is used to connect various printed circuit boards and electronic elements inside a device. They have many varieties and soldering features. Depending on the internal cross-section of the installed contacts, the conductivity will be higher or lower. This also applies to the type of soldering material.

If the question arises of how to restore a cable if it is damaged yourself, then many different nuances should be taken into account. The article will describe the main elements and provide information on how to solder contacts on various devices.

Peculiarities

Before you start considering the question of how to restore a torn cable, you should study its features. Depending on the type of device or printed circuit board, this type of wire can be either flat or circular. In addition, various elements in the form of technical varnish, graphite coating or rubberized braiding can be applied over the contacts and the conductor itself.

If the cable on the moving modules of the device is damaged, for example, on the print head of the printer, then it is necessary to clean the contacts from the rubberized braid. Loops on screens and phones can be applied on top of a printed silicon board. They have a flat appearance and are protected by graphite coating.

Purpose

The main purpose of each loop is to transmit a short or long electrical pulse between the device modules. Depending on the type and thickness, as well as the material of the conductor, the signal is transmitted at a certain speed.

This is important to consider, since if it is necessary to replace the conductive element itself, a copper wire of the required alloy will be required. Otherwise, contact may not proceed. The cables are convenient to place in compact equipment models due to their small size. Often this type of connection is used in mobile phones, laptops or screens.

Conductors can vary in the number of wires and contacts inside. Stubs with a single conductor element are usually installed on top of silicon circuit boards. If you need to connect a screen or hard drive, then a multi-threaded connection type will be used. It can have up to 40 grip points. It is these cables that are most often subject to damage, since soldering occurs on all contacts. If at least one of them is damaged, the device will cease to function normally.

Malfunctions related to damage

Determining that equipment is damaged due to a loop is quite simple. If you look at the screen of a laptop or TV, then due to damage to the conductor, the matrix will begin to flicker or the image will partially disappear. This is due to the fact that such a connection channel to the main board is responsible for projecting the signal. The damaged area will be broadcast with interruptions in the image precisely at the point where the contacts are soldered.

In any case, you can make sure that the problem is in the cable only by disassembling the device itself and checking the voltage at each of its contacts. Usually such interruptions are visible to the naked eye.

The main visual signs of damage include the following:

1. Darkening in the places where the cable conductor goes.
2. Kinks and tears in the tape.
3. Damaged contacts at solder points.

In any case, such problems cannot be corrected with ordinary glue. Here you will need rosin, tin, alcohol and a soldering station.

Which devices often need repairs?

Every time the owner of household appliances and electronics is faced with the question of how to restore a cable, he must understand that the operation of soldering or stripping contacts itself carries a certain risk. If you fix a problem on a cable without the necessary tools or materials, there is a risk of damaging neighboring modules.

The owners of the workshops become frequent clients:

1. TVs, monitors, laptop screens.
2. Keyboards
3. Laptops and PCs.
4. Phones.

The problem is not the quality of the conductors themselves, but the risk of their damage. If we consider a mobile phone, the cable is mainly damaged due to contact with liquid. As a result, the contacts burn out at the soldering points.

Keyboard wires wear out due to frequent use of keys and switches. This leads to the fact that the conductor itself wears off over time and conductivity decreases. If we consider laptops and personal computers, the problem may arise due to a power surge or incorrect connection of the conductor itself.

Screens

The question of how to restore the display cable is quite complex. It all depends on the brand and model of the matrix and the boards to which such a screen is attached. It could be a laptop, monitor, tablet, all-in-one or TV. Each of the listed devices uses its own soldering method and technology for applying binding materials.

Damaged contacts at the coupling points must be completely cleaned. You can use a blade or scalpel for this. Then you will need to strip the wires to fix them in place where they are soldered to the board. It is better to use a soldering iron with a small tip to prevent tin from getting on other elements. If you need to build up a damaged area if it is broken or bent, then you will need a similar wire model. You can find it on the radio market or on the Internet, on thematic resources.

When considering the question of how to restore a cable on a matrix, it is necessary to test each connected element or contact before starting the repair. This is done using a voltmeter. It shows the voltage at each section. This must be done in order to not only find the source of the damage, but also its cause, which may be a damaged part.

Keyboards

Fans of computer games and constant correspondence become frequent clients of workshops asking how to restore a cable on a keyboard. It is a common practice for a keyboard to become unusable after several years of active use.

A frayed cable will have to be replaced. For these purposes, you will need copper wire of a suitable cross-section. The contact itself is flat and located over the entire area of ​​the printed circuit board, which is responsible for transmitting information after pressing a specific button on the keyboard. You will need to clean the varnish layer and remove the frayed wire. After this, a new one is placed in its place and fixed with conductive glue. Then technical varnish is applied.

It is not difficult to restore the keyboard cable. If performed correctly, the operation will take no more than 30-40 minutes. The main thing is that all contacts are well treated with varnish and glue.

Laptops

There are several ways to restore a laptop cable. The contacts and wires located on the motherboard are of a replaceable type. If damage is detected on them, it is better to replace the wire itself. It costs much less than the materials that would be required to restore it.

If the components cannot be found, you can replace it. To do this, you will need to select a suitable wire cross-section. This method is not suitable for multi-core loops.

The damaged conductor is removed from the contact point on the board. After this, the braided wire is carefully threaded into the forks at the clutch points. They use latches so you can secure them with a flathead screwdriver.

If it is necessary to restore a multi-core cable, then the damaged area should be cleaned and the break should be extended using conductor compound. Conductive glue is often used for these purposes.

Phones

Another popular question is how to restore a cable on a phone after it gets into water. Upon contact with it, the screen of the mobile device begins to darken. This is a sign that the cable contacts on the matrix are damaged.

In order to fix this, you will need to replace the conductor. It must be carefully cut away from the place where it is fixed on the main board and disconnected from the phone screen. After purchasing a new wire, it should first be soldered to the main board exactly in the place where the old wire was. Next, the contacts are attached to the smartphone matrix.

What you need to know about recovery

If we talk about how to restore a track on a cable, then first of all you should understand the procedure for repairing such a conductor. A special feature of the tracks is that they are not contained in a protected casing or rubber braid, but on the printed circuit board itself.

The main difficulty is that the contacts are flat, and in order to remove them you will need to clean off the base layer of protective varnish. To correct the damage, they can be replaced with wires and round copper fishing line. The conductor is fixed using conductive glue. After this, varnish is applied on top.

When connecting a stranded conductor, it is important that each individual contact is well soldered. You can verify the conductivity of all flows using a voltmeter.

What materials and tools will be required

When considering the question of how to restore a track on a cable, you need to know what materials and tools will be needed to perform this action.

In most cases, when repairing or replacing a conductor, a soldering iron or soldering station will be needed. When using a nozzle, it is important to install the needle as a heater, since it is this that will allow you to accurately apply the tin to adhere all the elements.

Technical varnish and conductive glue will also be needed when repairing the cable. Depending on its type and shape, you will have to purchase consumables in the form of wires of the required size and cross-section. In order to increase the accuracy of the adhesion of each element, it is recommended to use a magnifying glass or microscope.

How the repair is carried out

There are several ways to restore the loop contacts. The main and simplest of them is the use of conductive glue. It can be found in specialized equipment repair stores.

All types of work differ depending on the device model and the nature of the damage. The general procedure for performing recovery is as follows:

1. Clean the cable where it is damaged.
2. Remove the damaged area.
3. Apply glue or install a new conductor.
4. Secure the wire at the junction.
5. Using a soldering station, apply tin for joining.
6. Apply a protective layer of varnish over the conductor or wrap the conductor with electrical tape.

Do not start the device right away, as the protective layer of varnish or tin may not fully harden. It is important to be careful when applying all liquid solutions to the board to avoid touching other conductive components.

Precautionary measures

When considering the question of whether the cable can be restored, it is important to know what problems may arise during this action. It is not recommended to solder the conductor in modern smartphones. Unlike older phone models, special equipment will be required to repair matrices. It will be impossible to do this at home using a blowtorch.

When replacing a conductor, only use an identical one. If you replace it with a high- or low-conductivity one, as a result of a voltage surge, the connected element may completely fail. After replacement, all stripped elements must be covered with a protective layer. They should not be left open, as this may lead to overheating of the conductor itself.

What to do if the cable installation failed

Having figured out how to restore the cable, you can get to work. To achieve a successful result, you must carefully follow each step and apply the solder adhesive carefully. Only after the applied mass has hardened can the device be tested. To do this, check the voltage level on the connected element with a voltmeter.

If there is no voltage and the cable itself does not function, it is better to seek help from a specialized workshop. Not all parts and cables can be glued or soldered at home.

However, experienced specialists note that a set of tools and materials will not be enough to carry out soldering. To do this, expensive equipment and various devices are used, which would be problematic to purchase on your own. Therefore, to avoid the risk of damage, it is better to immediately seek help from professionals.

Repairing a cable torn into two pieces

It so happened that a friend’s CANON IXUS 860 IS camera broke down
His inner lens tube rotated 30 degrees relative to the body.
Because of this, autofocus did not work. Sharpness was achieved at a certain position of the zoom lens, no further and no closer than this position. When the power was turned off, the lens did not retract completely.
An autopsy showed that some of the cables were tightly soldered, either to the board or to the external and internal elements of the lens, which greatly complicated disassembly.
With another careless movement, the comrade broke one of the trains. We decided that we would think about this topic “tomorrow”, but for now we will work on the lens, for the sake of repair of which everything was started.
We sorted out the lens in about an hour and a half. It turned out that when in a completely retracted position, and when certain forces are applied to the lens tubes (when it is in your pocket, for example, and you press it), the tubes can come out of the operational grooves along which they mate with each other and get into the technological grooves, designed for assembly disassembly of the lens, which leads to a complete disruption of the entire kinematics of the lens. Once this happens, there is no turning back. Without disassembling the camera and lens, it is no longer possible to return everything to its original state. When all the elements of the lens were installed correctly, and victory over it was already so close, one careless press on it, when the lens was in the retracted position, led to the “balls coming out of the rollers” again.
Okay, these are all lyrical digressions... What about our torn train?
We tried to solve the problem head-on. Using a medical needle, using a watch magnifying glass (since the cable is very narrow), we cleaned the insulation above the cable conductors, periodically restoring the sharpness of the needle on a fine emery block (which was on hand). This problem was solved quite easily. Then, using a soldering iron with a piece of copper wire wound around it as a thin and sharp tip, the stripped sections of the halves of the loops were soldered. The question arose of how and how to connect the pieces of the cable to each other, and so that it would work later... We decided to solder thin conductors from a silver-plated screen of some kind of RF cable that was on hand. (It must be said that all this happened far from the Motherland, and there wasn’t much to choose from).
They began to solder the wires. There were six conductors in the loop. Two were of a decent cross-section, and the rest were comparable to the thickness of the wires chosen for repair. At first, this did not seem like an insurmountable obstacle. Having soldered the wires to the first two, which were wider, we proceeded to the third, thin one…. This is where it turned out that the first two wires are easily unsoldered at the slightest touch with a soldering iron. Further... The soldered wires all the time cling to what is necessary and what is not necessary... And the stripped sections of the cable conductors peel off from the base, which immediately come off altogether.... Stripping and soldering of the cable conductors was repeated over and over again, as soon as another piece broke off. It came to the point of trimming the cable, since the distance from the end of some conductors to the edge of the cable was already decent. ( Although, as it turned out later, different distances from the conductors to the edge of the loop are useful and extremely necessary). Gradually the understanding came that we couldn’t defeat the plume this way.
After sitting and thinking, we decided to protect the already soldered wires and the cable from breaking off by securing the wires into a homemade cable. Adhesive plaster was chosen as the cable material. The wires were laid on a piece of plaster, one next to the other. Covered with Moment glue on top and pressed with a second similar piece of plaster. The train was made without correlating it with the dimensions of the damaged train, according to the principle “as it turns out, so it turns out.”
As a result, it turned out that the cable had to be made with a wire pitch that completely coincided with the pitch of the conductors of the original cable, and such a length that the repaired cable could fit in the camera without any problems. But the efforts to make this “loop” were not in vain. The “thoughts” in my head continued to work. As a result, a “technology” was born that can be useful to anyone who faces similar problems.
Here she is:
1. We clean the thin and closely spaced conductors of the damaged cable and so that the soldering points are staggered. (This is necessary so that when soldering each subsequent conductor, protect the soldering site of the previous one from touching the soldering iron, and, therefore, instantly desoldering it).
2. Take a piece of adhesive tape and glue it to the cable being repaired on the reverse side from the side where soldering will be done. The patch should protrude beyond the edge of the cable with the adhesive layer facing up. ( In our case, the contact part of the cable came off, and the total length of the cable after repair is important, since a cable that is too long after repair may not bend so that it can be docked with the connector without damage. This determines the size of the protruding part of the patch.).
3. We fix both the train and the plaster by gluing them to the table with other pieces of plaster. ( This must be done, since the working area should not always “run away” from the soldering iron and the hands of the repairman).
4. Take the torn piece of the cable and glue it onto the protruding end of the patch, which was prudently left as such ( see point 2). (As a result of this, both halves of the loop, connected by adhesive tape, become one physically, but not yet electrically).
5. We prepare wires of exactly the same length as between the soldered tracks of the halves of the torn cable glued to the plaster.
6. Solder the ends of the wires.
7. Take the first wire, place it on the adhesive layer of the patch so that it lies strictly along the route between the connected halves of the cable, touching with its ends the places where soldering will be done. Press the wire onto the patch with any suitable object. We get a semi-finished product of the future conductor, not yet soldered, but already lying in “its” place, not afraid of the trembling hands of the repairman, nor his accidental “sneeze”. ( Although the first and last wires of the cable have the right to protrude outward beyond the overall width of the cable. And in the case of using insulated wires, it doesn’t matter at all how they pass. In our case, the wires are uninsulated, and we needed to provide a gap between them).
8. Take a soldering iron, use a match to press one of the ends of the wire glued to the patch to the soldering point, and with a light and graceful movement of the soldering iron, solder it. We do the same with the second end of the wire. ( Take care of the magnifying glass, because if you melt it with a soldering iron, you will not be able to complete this work, worthy of a watchmaker.).
9. Take the second wire. We place it on the patch, like the first one, ensuring the necessary gap between them. We press it, like the first one... That’s it, it’s fixed and won’t run away anywhere. We solder.
10. We repeat these operations as many times as we need to restore the number of loop conductors.
11. We examine the almost repaired cable for the presence of gaps between all the adjacent wires lying on the patch. ( If necessary, you can carefully correct them; the adhesive layer of the patch allows you to do this).
12. Fill the repair area with Moment glue ( Or whatever adhesives you have) and having covered our repaired cable with another piece of plaster, but this time from the side of the soldering points, we place it under some heavy object that plays the role of a press until the glue dries.
13. Cut off the pieces of plaster protruding beyond the dimensions of the train. ( The same medical needle is suitable for this. We lead her like a knife).
14. We assemble the device in the reverse order as we disassembled it.
15. We try to leave as few unnecessary spare parts as possible.
16. Turn on the power of the device.
17. Enjoy life.

I wish everyone good luck
The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing………

LeoBel (Leonid Beloborodov)
December 2009

Attached file #1.

Are you familiar with the principle of connecting all moving parts to a printed circuit board in all modern mobile technologies? The connection of these elements is achieved using cables. During continuous use, this component may fail. How to fix a cable on a phone? Users without experience immediately panic and start searching for the nearest service center. But the services in the workshop cost quite a lot of money, and who likes unexpected expenses? This article will help those users who have basic knowledge of working with modern technology. Today we will try to repair the cable ourselves.

A little about the device and upcoming work

Modern models of mobile phones are very quickly losing their former relevance, because they are being replaced by new versions of devices. Not every user is ready to spend a large amount of money in order to acquire a brand new powerful smartphone. The components for such devices are not very expensive, but installing them is a rather expensive undertaking.

Is it possible to repair the cable yourself? If you disassemble your gadget, you will see that the contact pads are attached directly to the display. On the back of the case, these parts are attached to the printed circuit board in a certain sequence.

Important! In order to determine the malfunction, you need to get a brand new multimeter, which will have a built-in ohmmeter to measure resistance. In the same service centers, the connecting components are bent in opposite directions to identify the problematic contact.

If other problems are identified during the diagnosis, we advise you to eliminate them at the same time. Perhaps in this case you will find our other publications useful:

Tools

To carry out repairs at home, you need to be well prepared and find special materials and tools, such as:

1. Flathead screwdriver.
2. Magnifying glass.
3. Needle.
4. Alcohol solution.
5. Sandpaper.
6. Soldering Station.
7. Thick layer of polyethylene.
8. Adhesive tape and multi-core cable MGTF.

Important! Before you start restoration work, think several times. All manipulations are not particularly difficult if you have ever done anything similar. If you are not 100% sure of success, we still recommend finding a service center where qualified workers will take matters into their own hands.

Method one

In order to repair the phone cable, you need to perform the following steps:

• Remove the back cover of your device and remove the battery.
• Now you need to unscrew the fastening screws using a flat-head screwdriver.
• Remove the main circuit board and the plastic trim that is located under the screen. The last component is attached with double-sided tape.
• Next, you need to start looking for a gap in any of the tracks. To do this, you need to get rid of the insulation with a needle.

Important! To make the procedure easier, use a magnifying glass.

• We take a soldering iron in our hands and wrap a piece of copper wire around its tip. A component with low power parameters (about 20-25 watts) is best suited. Solder off the remaining wire insulation.
• The edge that has just been cleaned needs to be prepared for connection to the board.

Important! If for some reason several conductors were damaged at once, then repeat the last manipulation for each of them.

• If you are done with the previous point, then move on to the soldering itself. We solder the edges onto the printed circuit board and carefully inspect the entire circuit for any gaps between the tracks.
• Take thermal film or a layer of polyethylene in your hands and wrap it around the edges of the soldered cable in at least one layer. Warm up the whole thing until the film melts, thereby gluing it to the tape. An iron is perfect for this action, but you need to take into account that the entire procedure must be carried out with extreme caution.
• It happens that the path breaks not at the edges, but in the very center. To fix this problem, it is best to duplicate this track using pieces of the mounting conductor.
• Now we assemble the mobile device in reverse order and check its functionality.

Important! You should also know that you can make the train yourself. To do this, you need to place the conductors on a layer of ordinary medical plaster.

How to repair a phone cable in another way? Everything is very simple.

Method two

Restoration work can also be carried out as follows:

• First, grind a small amount of rosin to a powder and dissolve it in an alcohol solution. To create a solution, use a proportional ratio of one to six.
• Now we take the good old “Moment” glue in our hands and glue the damaged area onto an insulated plate. Then you need to put this connection under the most ordinary technical microscope, which everyone used in biology lessons at school.
• Let's start removing the insulation. The tool you can use is a scalpel or a small knife. We remove about 1.5 mm of wire at the break point. Next you need to apply a little of the solution that was in the first step to a section of the tape. Use a brush to apply the mixture. After application, touch the soldering iron tip to this area of ​​the cable.
• Remove the varnish using a scalpel and thoroughly lubricate this section with a solution of rosin and alcohol. Tin the conductor 25 mm from its edge and carefully solder it to the outermost track in relation to the outermost cable.

Important! For convenience, it is better to lift the wire in the middle above those parts that are damaged.

• We bend a section of the wire, which we connect the two sides of the non-working track and use wire cutters to bite off the excess parts that were formed during the work. All that remains is to solder the cable to the board.
• If there is a need to “extend” the cable, then use another section of the cable with the appropriate geometric dimensions. Cut the component perpendicular to the damaged area.
• We clean, connect and solder both halves. We isolate the sections of the wire that are exposed and assemble the mobile phone in the reverse order.

You will need

• - school microscope;
• - thin solid insulating plate;
• - tweezers;
• - glue “Moment”;
• - side cutters;
• - bow rosin;
• - alcohol;
• - scalpel;
• - soft brush.

Instructions

Powder a small amount of rosin and dissolve it in alcohol using a one to six ratio (one part rosin to six parts alcohol). “Moment” glue the damaged section of the cable to the insulating plate and place this connection under a school microscope.

Using a scalpel, carefully remove the top layer of insulation of the tracks around the damaged area at a distance of 1.5 mm from the break point. Using a soft brush, apply a little alcohol solution of rosin to the tracks that have been stripped of insulation. Touch this section of the cable with a well-tinned, heated soldering iron with a minimum amount of solder.

Carefully remove the varnish from a wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm with a scalpel and apply an alcoholic rosin solution to it with a brush. Tin the wire at a distance of 15 - 25 mm from the edge and carefully solder it to the first damaged track relative to the edge of the cable. Between the parts of the damaged area to be connected, lift the middle of the wire 1.5 mm above the cable.

Bend the section of wire that connects to both sides of the damaged track. Using side cutters, bite off the excess part of it at the place where the second point is soldered. Start soldering the cable from the damaged section farthest from you.

Extend the cable if its break occurs at the bend in the area of ​​​​moving sections. Use a length of cable that is suitable in length, width, as well as the required number and width of tracks, which will be used to make the required insert. Carefully and evenly cut across the train at its damaged area.

Strip, connect and carefully solder each half of the cable to the insert. Make sure that the first track of the cable completely coincides with the first track of the other half. Insulate the exposed wires in the soldering areas with Moment glue.

Sources:

• Restoring a torn cable

Plume– a detail of the cut of a woman’s dress, the essence of which is to lengthen the back of the skirt or dress. Plume decorated the wedding dresses of the queens and stretched for many meters from the dress, not allowing its owner to dance, take a step back, or even sit down. Modern cables solve many of these problems by reducing their length and using special tricks.

Instructions

Video on the topic

Beautiful wedding dress with train will create a solemn mood and make a lasting impression. However, such dresses are considered impractical, as they deprive the main character of the celebration of freedom of movement.

Instructions

Dress with train, of course, beautiful, but before you wear such an outfit to the ceremony, conduct a rehearsal. Get used to it, walk around, learn to turn and sit down. Think about who will help hold the train. Call for help or them. Invite your witness or friends to help you. Choose a dress with a detachable train. Remove the train after the wedding ceremony.

If the dress is with train equipped with a bustle, raise the bottom train so that it is level with the hem of the dress. A bustle is a pad-like device that is sewn onto the back of the petticoat. Naturally, the skirt of the dress will visually increase, repeating the fashionable silhouettes of the 19th century. Gather the train into folds and attach it to the eyelets located on the wrong side of the skirt.

If the dress model requires a train to be attached at the top, attach it to special loops that are located on the waistband of the skirt. In this case, the fastenings are disguised with various decorative elements.

To make the train fabric flow beautifully from the side of the dress, use a special one, which is sewn to the edge of the train and worn on the wrist. Please note that this method is suitable if the cable material is light.

Video on the topic

note

If you are climbing stairs, do not lift the long skirt of the dress too high - a maximum of 1.5-2 cm.

Helpful advice

When wearing a dress with a train, follow the main rule: not take a step back.

Sources:

• Wedding dress with a train in 2019
• What is a wedding dress train in 2019

Many modern electronic household appliances use flexible multi-core trains, connecting individual moving and stationary components of the device relative to each other. Often these trains are torn. This usually happens where the cable bends. The functionality of such a loop can be restored.

You will need

• - thin solid insulating plate (it is advisable to use polyamide (Kapton));
• - “moment” glue;
• - alcohol;
• - bow rosin;
• - soldering iron with a power of 10 – 15 Watt;
• - tweezers;
• - school microscope;
• - scalpel;
• - varnished wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm;
• - brush;
• - low-melting tin solder;
• - side cutters.

Instructions

Before repairing the cable, prepare alcohol-rosin flux. To do this, grind some rosin into powder. Dissolve rosin in alcohol in a ratio of 1 gram of rosin to 6 grams of alcohol. Stir the alcohol until the rosin is completely dissolved.

Glue the damaged section of the cable with “moment” glue to the insulating plate. This plate will provide mechanical rigidity in the damaged area and will not allow the cable to break in the same place in the future.

Place the damaged section of the cable under a microscope. Using a scalpel, carefully remove the top layer of insulation from the conductive paths near the damaged area. Clean the paths at a distance of 1–1.5 mm from the break point.

Using a soft brush, apply a little alcohol solution of rosin to the tracks that have been cleared of insulation. Using a well-tinned, heated soldering iron, touch this area on the cable. The amount of solder on the soldering iron tip should be minimal, otherwise the solder may fill and bridge adjacent conductive paths of the cable.

Using a scalpel, carefully remove the varnish from a wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm. Apply an alcohol solution of rosin to it. Tin the wire in an area 15 - 25 mm from the edge. Carefully solder the tinned wire to the first damaged track from the edge of the cable.

Bend the section of wire that is soldered to both sides of the damaged track slightly so that the middle of the wire is raised 1 - 1.5 mm above the cable between the connected points of the damaged section. In this case, the wire will not be tensioned after the soldering area of ​​the loop has cooled. Using side cutters, carefully cut off the excess wire near the second soldering point. Start soldering the cable from the damaged area farthest from you.

If the break occurs at the bend between the moving sections of the cable, then it should be extended. To do this, select a piece of cable that is suitable in length, width, as well as the number and width of tracks. It will be used to make the insert. Carefully and evenly cut across the train in the damaged area. Strip, connect and solder each half of the cable with the insert as described above. Make sure that the first track of the beginning of the loop coincides with the first track of its second half. Insulate the bare sections of the wire in the places where the cable is soldered with “moment” glue.

The train is an important and even irreplaceable component of many mechanisms. In computers, cables are used to connect hard drives, optical drives and other components to the motherboard. Without a cable, a mobile phone will not work, because it connects its moving parts and serves to transmit a signal from one part of the mobile phone to another.

Instructions

To connect the cable to the matrix, completely separate the broken cable. Then wash off the residue with acetone that was originally used to glue it. Apply flux and plume liberally and tin with a soldering iron using a mini-wave tip. It will collect excess solder on its surface and there will be no short circuits. Wash off all the flux. There should be a small amount of solder left on the gold-plated contacts.

Do this carefully to get evenly sized swells. Apply a little of the same flux, combine it on the board and cable, and heat it evenly with a hot air blower. The solder will melt, the cable will float and, under the influence of surface solder tension, will find its place. At the same time, it softens and creates an ideal flat contact surface.

Use conductive glue to glue the ribbon cable to the tracks. You can purchase such glue at any specialized radio electronics or automotive store.

Fill the tracks with sealant - the result is almost the same as with glue, but in this case you cannot promise the same durability as in the case of special conductive adhesives.

Press the cable using the rubber band from the other indicators. If you have a “Well, wait a minute” toy, use it - these rubber bands are large and very helpful in such situations. You can also glue the cores from the wire to the indicator, and they, in turn, glue them to the restored tracks of the cable itself.

If the cable has come off, glue it back on by simply placing it on the contacts and ironing the paper. But practice on a penny calculator to get better and not ruin everything. This method is more suitable for repairing small office equipment, rather than computers and similar mechanisms.

Many modern electronic devices use multi-core flexible cables. They connect the individual fixed and moving components of the device. But very often these connections break. In this case, do not panic - restoring the functionality of the cable is as easy as shelling pears if you have minimal skills in handling a soldering iron.

Instructions

Prepare rosin-alcohol flux. To do this, grind rosin into powder and dissolve it in an alcohol solution in a ratio of one part rosin to six parts alcohol. Mix thoroughly until the rosin is completely dissolved in the alcohol.

Take an insulating plate and glue the damaged section of the cable to it using Moment glue. It will stiffen the area and prevent more tears in that area.

Place the damaged area under a magnifying glass or microscope and use a scalpel to carefully scrape away any insulation from the conductive paths near the damaged area. Clean the tracks approximately from the break point.

After this, apply the rosin-alcohol solution with a brush to the areas cleared of insulation. Tin well and warm up the soldering iron and lightly touch this area with it. There should be a minimum amount of solder so as not to fill or short-circuit the conductive connections of the loop tracks.

Take a thin wire of 0.15 mm, clean it of varnish and apply rosin solution to it. Tin it 15-25 mm from the edge and solder it to the first damaged cable track from the edge. Bend the wire that is soldered to both sides of the track so that in the middle the wire rises 1-1.5 mm above the surface of the cable - this way it will not stretch after the soldering area has cooled. Start soldering the cable from the damage furthest away from you.

Extend the cable if it breaks between moving parts. Select an identical train of the required length from which to make an insert. Carefully cut the cable where it is damaged. Strip and solder the cable and insert as described above. Make sure that the cable paths match perfectly. After this, insulate the bare sections of the wires at the soldering points with glue.

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Sometimes it happens that when creating a file system, the hard drive initially “thinks” for a very long time, and as a result of these thoughts it displays a message that an error occurred while creating the file system and, as a result, the file system cannot be written. Or while formatting hard disk, a message indicating that the zero track is damaged is displayed.

Elastic stranded trains are widely used in the production of high-tech devices and electronic household appliances. Connecting fixed and moving parts of mechanisms, they repeatedly break at bend points. Restore such trains It is absolutely permissible to do it yourself.

You will need

• – school microscope;
• – thin solid insulating plate;
• – tweezers;
• – glue “Moment”;
• – side cutters;
• – bow rosin;
• - alcohol;
• – scalpel;
• - soft brush.

Instructions

1. Grind a small amount of rosin into powder and dissolve it in alcohol, using a ratio of one to six (one part rosin and six parts alcohol). “Moment” glue the damaged section of the cable to the insulating plate and place this connection under a school microscope.

2. Using a scalpel, carefully remove the top layer of insulation from the conductive paths around the damaged area at a distance of 1.5 mm from the break point. Using a soft brush, apply a little alcohol solution of rosin to the paths that have been cleared of insulation. Touch this section of the cable with a well-tinned, minimal amount of solder, heated soldering iron.

3. Carefully clean the varnish from a wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm with a scalpel and apply an alcoholic rosin solution to it with a brush. Tin the wire at a distance of 15 - 25 mm from the edge and neatly solder it to the first damaged path, touching the edge of the cable. Between the parts of the damaged area to be connected, lift the middle of the wire 1.5 mm above the cable.

4. Bend the section of wire that connects to both sides of the damaged path. Using side cutters, bite off the excess part of it at the place where the 2nd point is soldered. Start soldering the cable from the damaged section far from you.

5. Extend the cable if its break occurs at the bend in the area of ​​the moving sections. Use a section of cable that is suitable in length, width, as well as the required number and width of paths, the one that will be used to make the desired insert. Carefully and evenly cut across the train in its damaged area.

6. Strip, combine and neatly solder each half of the cable to the insert. Make sure that the first path of the train completely coincides with the first path of its other half. Insulate the exposed wires in the soldering areas with Moment glue.

Plume- a detail of the cut of a woman’s dress, the essence of which is to lengthen the back of the skirt or dress. Plume decorated the wedding dresses of queens and stretched for many meters from the dress, not allowing its owner to dance, take a step back, or even sit down. Modern cables solve many of these problems by reducing its length and using special tricks.

Instructions

1. Calculate the length of the train. It is enough to add 20 cm to the length of the skirt (or dress) so that the train becomes invisible.

2. Cut an additional wedge from the skirt fabric. Its length along the side lines should correspond to the overall length of the dress, and increase it by the required amount towards the center of the wedge. Connect the length points with a smooth, rounded line.

3. Cut out the wedge taking into account the seam allowances and sew in at the back. In this case, the outline of the skirt will seem narrowed due to the weight of the fabric.

4. Instead of an additional wedge, you can increase the length of the existing wedges along the back seam line. Draw the bottom line in the form of a semicircle.

5. If you want to sew a long train and still remain flexible, sew a ring to the bottom point of the train. While dancing or moving backwards, you can pick up the train by putting on the ring.

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Beautiful wedding dress with train will put you in a festive mood and create an unforgettable feeling. However, such dresses are considered impractical because they deprive the main character of the feast of the will to move.

Instructions

1. The train is an elongated part of the skirt that flows beautifully along the floor. Remember the old rituals of the wedding of monarchs, the trains of the future queens stretched across all the halls. If you decide to wear a dress with train, it will undoubtedly create a sensation on the guests.

2. Consider the solemnity of the event. This outfit is especially appropriate, say, for a wedding. There are a lot of people present at the ceremony in the registry office, the train will only get in the way. It will be quite difficult to sit down, dance, and even turn around easily.

3. Dress with train, unconditionally, wonderful, but before you wear such an outfit to the ceremony, conduct a rehearsal. Get used to it, walk around the apartment, learn to turn and sit down. Think about who will help hold the train. Call on your relatives or their children for support. Invite your witness or friends to help you. Choose a dress with a detachable train. Remove the train after the wedding ceremony.

4. If the dress is with train equipped with a bustle, raise the lower train so that it is level with the hem of the dress. A bustle is an adaptation similar to a pad, an overlay that is sewn to the back of the petticoat. Of course, the skirt of the dress will visually increase, repeating the fashionable contours of the 19th century. Gather the train into folds and attach it to the eyelets located on the wrong side of the skirt.

5. If the dress model requires the train to be attached at the top, attach it to special loops that are located on the skirt’s waistband. In this case, the fastenings are disguised with various decorative elements.

6. To ensure that the fabric of the train flows beautifully from the side of the dress, use a special loop that is sewn to the edge of the train and placed on the wrist. Please note that this method is suitable if the cable material is light.

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Note!
If you are going up the stairs, do not lift the long skirt of the dress too high - a maximum of 1.5-2 cm.

Helpful advice
When wearing a dress with a train, follow the basic rule: not take a step back.

Many modern electronic household appliances use elastic stranded trains, connecting individual moving and static components of the device touching each other. Often these trains are torn. This happens, as usual, in places where the cable bends. The functionality of such a loop can be restored.

You will need

• – a thin solid insulating plate (it is advisable to use polyamide (Kapton));
• – glue “moment”;
• - alcohol;
• – bow rosin;
• – soldering iron with a power of 10 – 15 Watt;
• – tweezers;
• – school microscope;
• – scalpel;
• – varnished wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm;
• – brush;
• – low-melting tin solder;
• – side cutters.

Instructions

1. Before repairing the cable, prepare alcohol-rosin flux in advance. To do this, grind a little rosin into powder. Dissolve rosin in alcohol in a ratio of 1 gram of rosin to 6 grams of alcohol. Stir the alcohol until the rosin is completely dissolved.

2. Glue the damaged section of the cable with “moment” glue to the insulating plate. This plate will provide mechanical rigidity in the damaged area and will prevent the cable from breaking in the same place in the future.

3. Place the damaged section of the cable under a school microscope. Carefully use a scalpel to clean the conductive paths near the damaged area from the top layer of insulation. Clean paths at a distance of 1–1.5 mm from the break point.

4. Using a soft brush, apply a little alcohol solution of rosin to the paths cleared of insulation. With a perfectly tinned, heated soldering iron, touch this area on the cable. The amount of solder on the soldering iron tip should be minimal; on the contrary, solder can fill and bridge adjacent conductive paths of the cable.

5. Using a scalpel, carefully remove the varnish from a wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm. Apply an alcohol solution of rosin to it. Tin the wire in an area 15 - 25 mm from the edge. Carefully solder the tinned wire to the first damaged path from the edge of the cable.

6. Bend the section of the wire, the one that is soldered to the two sides of the damaged path, slightly so that the middle of the wire is raised 1 - 1.5 mm above the cable between the connected points of the damaged section. In this case, the wire will not be tensioned after the soldering area of ​​the loop has cooled. Using side cutters, carefully cut off the unwanted wire near the 2nd soldering point. Start soldering the cable from the damaged area far from you.

7. If the break occurs at the bend between the moving sections of the cable, then it should be extended. To do this, select a piece of cable that is suitable in length, width, as well as the number and width of paths. It will be used to make the insert. Carefully and evenly cut the train across the damaged area. Strip, combine and solder each half of the cable with the insert as described above. Make sure that the first path of the beginning of the train coincides with the first path of its 2nd half. Insulate the bare sections of the wire in the places where the cable is soldered with “moment” glue.

The train is a significant and even necessary component of many mechanisms. In computers, cables are used to connect hard drives, optical drives and other components to the motherboard. A mobile phone will not work without a cable, since it connects its moving parts and serves to transmit a signal from one part of the mobile phone to another.

Instructions

1. In order to glue the cable to the matrix, completely separate the broken cable. After this, use acetone to wash off the remaining conductive glue that was originally used to glue it. Apply flux liberally to the board and cable and tin with a soldering iron using a small mini-wave tip. It will collect unnecessary solder on its surface, and there will be no closed contacts. Wash off each flux. There should be small amounts of solder left on the gold-plated contacts.

2. Do this carefully to get evenly sized sagging. Apply a little of the same flux, align the contacts on the board and the cable, and heat it evenly with a hot air blower. The solder will melt, the cable will float and, under the influence of surface solder tension, will find its place. At the same time, it softens and assumes a perfect flat contact surface.

3. Use conductive glue to glue the cable to the paths. You can buy such glue at any specialized radio electronics store or automotive store.

4. Fill the paths with sealant - the result is essentially the same as with glue, but in this case it is impossible to promise the same durability as in the case of special conductive adhesives.

5. Press the original cable using the rubber band from the other indicators. If you have a “Well, wait a minute” toy, use it - these rubber bands are large and really save you in such situations. You can also glue the cores from the wire to the indicator, and they, in turn, glue them to the restored paths of the cable itself.

6. If the cable on the calculator has come off, glue it back by simply placing it on the contacts and ironing it through the paper. But it’s better to practice on a penny calculator in order to “get your teeth into” and not ruin everything. This method is more suitable for repairing small office equipment, rather than computers and similar mechanisms.

Many modern electronic devices use multi-core elastic cables. They connect the individual static and moving components of the device. But very often these connections break. In this case, do not panic - restoring the functionality of the cable is as easy as shelling pears if you have minimal skills in handling a soldering iron.

Instructions

1. Prepare rosin-alcohol flux. To do this, grind rosin into powder and dissolve it in an alcohol solution in a ratio of one part rosin to six parts alcohol. Mix thoroughly until the rosin is completely dissolved in the alcohol.

2. Take an insulating plate and glue the damaged section of the cable to it using Moment glue. It will make this area more rigid and will not allow larger cliffs in this area.

3. Place the damaged area under a magnifying glass or microscope and use a scalpel to carefully remove insulation from the conductive paths near the damaged area. Clear the paths approximately a millimeter from the break point.

4. After this, apply a rosin-alcohol solution with a brush to the areas cleared of insulation. Tin and warm up the soldering iron and lightly touch this area with it. There should be a minimum amount of solder so as not to fill or short-circuit the conductive connections of the cable paths.

5. Take a thin wire of 0.15 mm, clean it of varnish and apply rosin solution to it. Tin it 15-25 mm from the edge and solder it to the first damaged path of the cable from the edge. Bend the wire that is soldered to both sides of the path so that in the middle the wire rises 1-1.5 mm above the surface of the cable - this way it will not stretch after the soldering area has cooled. Start soldering the cable from the damage that is far away from you.

6. Extend the cable if it breaks between the moving parts. Select an identical train of the required length from which to make an insert. Carefully cut the cable where it is damaged. Strip and solder the cable and insert as described above. Make sure that the paths of the trains match perfectly. Later, insulate the exposed wires at the soldering points with glue.

Video on the topic

It sometimes happens that when creating a file system, a rough disk first “thinks” for a very long time, and as a result of these thoughts it issues a message that an error occurred when creating the file system and, as a result, the file system cannot be written. Either while formatting hard disk, a message is displayed indicating that the zero path is damaged.

Instructions

1. Disconnect the computer entirely from power (unplug the power cord from the outlet).

2. Disconnect a completely serviceable rough disk, that is, pull the cable out of it.

3. Connect the failed drive.

4. After this, boot from the boot floppy disk.

5. Now write Debug on the command line.

6. In the running program you need to write the following: “-F 200 L200 0” press Enter, write “a100” press Enter again. After all these commands, the address should appear.

8. Now press Enter again and later enter “-G =100” “-q”

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Note!
Now, after all these steps, you can try again to create a file system on the hard drive. If everything is done positively, then everything should work out for you. True, the volume of the hard drive will decrease slightly, but this is a small price to pay for a completely working rough disk, one that was already considered non-working. And, most importantly, do not forget to disconnect the working rough disk before all these activities.

Helpful advice
Many users, especially beginners, seeing this frightening warning, will say that it’s all over and that any actions with the hard drive will no longer help. But even in such a seemingly hopeless situation, you can still try to do something. First of all, you need to understand the theory. So, what is the zero path? Path zero is the path on the hard drive where the file system is written. And it doesn’t matter which file system is FAT, FAT32, NTFS or any other. Another name for the zero path is the master boot record.

Everyone is rude disk sooner or later it fails. At such a moment, the main thing is to quickly begin correcting the necessary files saved on this medium. When working with a mobile computer's hard drive, there are several options for solving the problem.

You will need

• – Mount'n'Drive;
• – SATA-USB box.

Instructions

1. Quite often the hard drive fails disk and is associated with boot sector failure. This means that it is impossible to install an operating system on this device and use it as a rod drive. Try connecting this hard drive as a secondary one disk .

2. The main problem is that it is impossible to connect two internal drives to mobile computers at once. Purchase an external box that allows you to connect severe disk and with IDE or SATA interfaces to a USB port.

3. Install the hard drive into the box and connect it to the mobile computer. Of course, you will need another rough disk on which the operating system will be installed.

4. Internal drives of laptops with a SATA interface can be connected to desktop computers. To do this, remove the hard drive from the case laptop and remove the carriage. Be sure to remove the mounting carriage from the rigid disk A.

5. Connect the drive to the motherboard of a desktop computer using a cable with SATA connectors. Turn on your computer. Wait a while for the operating system to detect the newest drive.

6. Check the likelihood of standard copying of information from a hard drive disk A. Extract the necessary files and format the device. If the hard drive is unavailable for operation, install the Mount’n’Drive program. Launch it.

7. Right-click on the icon of the damaged hard drive. Select “Mount” and specify an arbitrary letter disk A. Wait for the new local volume to be created.

8. Open its contents using Windows Explorer. Extract the main files and disable rough disk. It is worth noting that the reading speed of the mounted disk or maybe even tiny. Don't waste time copying information that can be easily recovered using other methods.