Open-end wrench GOST 2839 80. Double-sided open-end wrenches

An additional board, or additional board, is a construction element that is used to close missing cracks and gaps in doorways in walls and other cracks made of wood. As a rule, the frame is made from MDF. The color of the extensions is wide in its range of choice, like a standard extension; as a rule, they are chosen to match the color of the door slopes and cashing, so that the room has a specific design. The fastening of the extensions is done very tightly.

The dependence on the constant use of extensions is explained by the fact that current door frames are thinner than modern walls. The usual wall thickness, let us remind you, is 8 cm. This difference was previously eliminated in the following way: the part of the wall that was not covered by the door frame was plastered, finished off, and wallpaper was glued to it. With all of the above, using extras is the cheapest way to make everything beautiful. What are the real advantages of extras, besides being cheap?

1) The door block is placed and mounted directly into the doorway, either with or without a door. If the door frame does not have a groove or a special quarter, then it is necessary to cut them with an electric router.

2) Then, a wooden beam and a pair of smaller beams are screwed directly to the door block. We made a groove.

3) Using a tape measure, we take measurements, similar to the above method, in four places. Directly from the location of the extension to the door frame.

4) If the lengths are not the same, or you need to reduce the extensions, then a miter saw will help you with this again. With its help, you will trim the extensions to the desired size on all sides. We remove the cuts using edge tape. This can also be done through a special company.

5) Then, you need to install the extensions directly into the groove we cut. First we do it at the top, then on the sides. The upper and lower ones should be located at a right angle of 90 degrees to each other.

6) Using a measuring level or other homemade level, we check the correctness vertically and horizontally.

7) We fasten the extension using masking tape, it should immobilize the entire structure.

8) Empty spaces that appeared with the installation of extensions must be filled with polyurethane foam.

9) When the foam dries, you need to cut off its protruding edges with a regular knife.

10) We install cashing.

Interior doors play a big role in the interior of a house. In order for them to have a complete aesthetic appearance, additional door elements are installed if necessary. Not everyone knows what an interior door extension is, what functions it performs, or how to install it correctly. You can find the answer to these questions by reading this article.

What is a door accessory?

Let's try to briefly explain what an extension for an interior door is. These are special strips of various sizes and textures that are installed in openings if the width of the door frame is larger. They serve not only to strengthen the door structure, but also to mask defects on the slopes and make them aesthetically pleasing. Extensions are an important element, so their color, texture and style should be matched to the appearance. The planks can be installed in existing old interior doors or in new ones. The extensions can be attached to either one or both sides of the opening, depending on the location of the box in it.

Additional panels come in the following types:

• telescopic;
• without edge;
• with edge.

The material for the manufacture of these elements is wood, finely dispersed fraction (MDF), plastic. Horizontal and vertical planks are covered with decorative film or veneer of various types of wood.

Dimensions of extensions for interior doors

Manufacturers produce the following parameters: panel height is 2 m, thickness - 0.5-2 cm, strip width can be from 10 to 14 cm. Non-standard extensions for interior doors, the dimensions of which, as a rule, exceed standard parameters, are made to order. Door frames may have special grooves into which the extension fits. Usually 10 mm thick panels are suitable for them. In this regard, when choosing an extension, you should take into account the size of the quarter. There are no restrictions on the thickness of the additional board if the door frame is without grooves.

Tools for installing extensions

For high-quality installation of door panels, you must have the following set of tools:

• circular saw;
• wood milling machine;
• clamp.

Using these tools, you can easily and quickly install extensions on interior doors, the price of one set of which will be approximately 580 rubles. After installation, you can be sure of the durability of this structure.

Installation of additional panels

The above describes what an extension for an interior door is. Their standard sizes and tools required for installation are also indicated. Now let’s tell you that it is best to purchase interior doors together with additional elements. Since for aesthetic beauty, the entire wooden structure must be made in the same style.

Installation of the additional element can be carried out before mounting the door frame or after its installation. If you chose the first option, then the additional strips should be secured on the back side of the loot. In the second case, the panel is drilled through and attached to the box with self-tapping screws.

There are cases when wall openings have unequal dimensions between the two sides of the slopes. Then the door frame is attached to the narrow part of the opening, and the wider one is closed with an extension. To do this, slats 25-35 cm long are glued end-to-end to the back side of the vertical panels. Their cross-section should be such that when the extensions are installed, there is a gap of 10 mm between them and the wall. Next, the panels are inserted into the groove of the door block, and the resulting small gap is filled with foam.

You can install extensions in such openings in another way. A frame is made from the bars, which is attached to the slopes with self-tapping screws. The space is filled with foam and after it dries, vertical additional strips are glued onto it.

The most convenient for installation are telescopic elements that have grooves, which makes it possible to install them in uneven openings. Such extensions on interior doors, the price of one set of which is 680 rubles, are installed without the use of glue or self-tapping screws. Their connection occurs due to grooves.

Installation of the extensions begins with vertical panels, and then installs horizontal elements. After completing their installation, the platbands should be attached.

Eliminating gaps after installing extensions

After installing the additional elements, the resulting gaps can be blown out with foam. To ensure that the foam, which tends to expand greatly, does not bend the door frame, it is necessary to follow some rules.

1. The foam should be blown out evenly.
2. The spacers must not be removed until it has completely hardened.
3. Support the additional panels with spacers, which should not put pressure on them.
4. Make sure that the foam does not go beyond the slope and does not displace the extensions. It is better to leave a small space, which can then be plastered.

Once you have learned what an interior door trim is and how to install it, doing the installation work yourself will be quite easy.

When installing door frames, it often becomes necessary to cover the remaining part of the slope with something. Most often, “extras” are used for these purposes, which can be purchased along with door leaves and trim. However, in most cases, such additional elements require adjustment, since the additional elements should be attached to the box as tightly as possible, and always strictly according to the size of the visible part of the slope.

Door frames

There are two options for door frames to which extensions are usually attached:

• with a groove for it,
• without groove.

In the first case, the additional element is inserted into the groove of the box with one (long) side, while its second side is unattached.

With the second option, the extension will need to be attached to the slope, without fixing it to the door frame.

Choice of extras

Extensions are strips made of laminated MDF. The color of these elements usually matches the color of the door frame and trim. But if you wish, you can always purchase additional colors of other colors, if this option is more suitable for the design of your room.

Do not forget that the extensions cover the slopes on three sides - on top and on two sides. In this case, it is desirable that the top extension be longer than the width of the door, and the vertical extensions rest against it at a right angle.

The varied width of the extensions allows you to choose them for slopes of almost any width. The main thing is that the additional element does not turn out to be narrower than necessary. If you cannot choose the exact size of the extension, you can trim it. To do this, it is recommended to contact furniture workshops, since you should additionally order there an edging tape sticker on one or two ends of the trim.

Installation of extensions with groove

First, let's look at how to attach the extensions to the door if the door frame has a special groove:

1. Install and secure the door frame in the opening. You can even hang the door - this will not affect the installation of the extensions.
2. Trim the extensions to the required length.
3. Measure the distance from the outer edge of the wall (slope side) to the door frame in at least three places. If these distances do not coincide, then the extension will have to be cut in a furniture workshop. On the end of the extension, to which the casing will be attached, it is also necessary to stick the edge tape there.
4. Insert the extensions into the grooves of the door frame: first the top horizontal, then the side vertical ones. The extensions must be located strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the door frame.
5. Check that they are horizontal and vertical.
6. Apply masking tape in 4-5 places along the length of the extension so that it can be used to fix it in the desired position.
7. Fill the space between the wall and the extension with polyurethane foam.
8. Wait until the foam hardens, cut off any excess.
9. Attach the trim.

Installation of extensions without a groove

After installing the door in the doorway, it is necessary to measure the remaining uncovered part of the wall (slopes). If the extensions have to be cut along the long side, then it is better to do this also in a furniture workshop. There you can also order the edging tape sticker on the two ends of the extensions (both on the side adjacent to the door frame and on the side of the platbands).

If the slopes are not plastered, then the extension should be secured as follows: take a wooden plank or a small beam and attach it to the slopes so that the extension can be secured on top of this plank, while maintaining its verticality (horizontal for the top extension) and right angle between it and the door frame.

With smooth plastered slopes, you can do without an additional wooden plank, provided that there is no need to leave any space between the extension and the wall.

1. Attach the extension to the bar.
2. Fill the remaining space between the wall and the extension with polyurethane foam. To make the foam harden faster, spray it with water.
3. Trim off any excess hardened foam.
4. Secure the trim.

Benefits of using extras

As you can see, the technology of fixing the extensions allows you to avoid such a tedious procedure as plastering the slopes. A correctly selected additional element makes the slope smooth and beautiful, no matter how bad the slope looked before. However, if the space between the extension and the wall exceeds 3-4 centimeters, it is better to additionally secure the extension using small wooden blocks screwed to the wall.

In cases where you do not have the opportunity to use factory-made additions, you can make their man-made “analog” from laminate or MDF panels. This solution will make it possible to create “diverging” slopes (not located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the door frame).

Video

Useful instructions for installing extensions:

Below you can see how the extensions are installed:

Why are extras needed and what are they? Before answering this question, we need to remember a little, and young people need to study history. As it was before? Each enterprise producing building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. d. Construction organizations had standards for the thickness of plaster. This allowed woodworking enterprises to produce woodwork (windows and doors) with standard door frame sizes. After installing them in the openings, no additional adjustment with additional trims for the platbands was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are guided not by state standards, but by their own technical conditions. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have different sizes. Now no one can confidently determine the thickness of the walls; it is impossible to make several standard sizes of door and window frames. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum permissible width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is gained by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and extensions made of natural wood, but they are rare and cost much more. The principles for installing wooden and MDF panels are no different.

Extensions are ordinary boards made of MDF, have a width from 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, and have the same color and texture as the doors. According to their design, they can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against an L-shaped cutout in the sides of the box; adjustable ones with the box have a tongue/groove connection. This allows you to accurately adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with the simple ones.

Prices for extras

Installation of simple extensions

Simple additions can be joined with foam (the fastest method), nails and screws (the longest method). Choose yourself the method that seems most appropriate to you; experienced builders install extensions only on foam. The method of installing the extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is significantly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on foam.

Measuring and preparing accessories

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching platbands. In order for the platbands to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie in line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be taken on an already installed door frame. Sizing is performed in the following ways.

Now you need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal one. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected by the letter P, take this into account when taking dimensions.

You can cut additional boards with a hand saw, a jigsaw, a portable electric saw, or on a stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - the work is much faster, its accuracy increases and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the pieces to length, then make width marks on each one at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess part. It is better to draw a straight line using the same extensions; you don’t have to look for straight and long wooden slats. At the cut site, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit more tightly to the door frame.

Jigsaw prices

jigsaw

Video - Measuring extras

All elements are prepared, you can start installing them. Let's start with the most complex method and end with the simplest.

Installing extensions with self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a hole for the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be coordinated with the diameter of the screw head. The diameter of the caps, in turn, changes with their length. The length of the screws is selected so that they fit into the door frame two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is advisable that the drills be wood-like; they have thin needle-like protrusions at the end, which allow more accurate centering of the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension; there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the countersunk completely drills out the side of the extension from the back side. The depth of the hole is regulated by the length of the screws; the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they should be screwed into the box no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, and make the same number of holes.

Step 2. Drill holes for screws. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult; you need a keen eye and dexterity.

How to drill them?

1. It is better to drill holes on the back side of the holes for the countersunk.
   Very important. You will need to drill not perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw is directed towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.

   

2. Place the drill perpendicular to the drilling plane exactly opposite the hole for the countersunk.
3. Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill bit at the desired angle and continue drilling until its tip appears in the countersunk hole.

   

   

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, and we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the accessories using the described method.

Step 3. Insert the screws into the holes and twist them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4. Screw on the vertical extensions first, then the horizontal ones. If the self-tapping screw is tightly screwed, do not use much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then screw it in again.

Step 5. Check the position of the extensions; if there are places with a loose fit to the door frame, press them with any available materials.

Step 6 Prevent the boards from bending with polyurethane foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth, use carpenter's tape and stick it to the paneling and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and two or three on the horizontal ones.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the slats should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. Subsequently, the spacers are pressed with various pads.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with polyurethane foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces; there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t be able to wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, the extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing is don’t leave any gaps. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep, fit various extensions to the nozzle. For very thin cracks, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them to the existing outlet of the foam can and worked. This design, however, is disposable, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, and use a sharp mounting knife to cut off any excess. Check the stability of the position of the extensions by tapping. If you find problem areas, add foam to them.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing extensions with screws

That's it, the work on installing the extensions is finished, you can start working with

Installation of extensions on studs

In this section we will talk about another way to measure the dimensions of the extensions. They need to be inserted one by one into the seats of the door frame and using the sharp side of the rule to draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically moved to the other side of the board and only cut along it. But you can insert the board rotated, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all cutting operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. Using a small-diameter drill (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Drill carefully and keep the drill strictly vertical. The depth of the holes should be 3-5 millimeters less than the length of the nails.

Step 2. Insert the nails into the drilled holes until they stop. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with pliers; the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3. Carefully insert each accessory element one by one into its place in the door frame. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wood spacer. Take your time; before fixing, firmly press the additional element against the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss a gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant that matches the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you will have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the incorrect fastening is located a few tenths of a millimeter from the correct one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slide into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4. Wedge the extensions on the back side, secure their position with tape or spacers to prevent them from bursting with foam.

Step 5. Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray).

Step 6 Fill the gap with sealant over the entire surface. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing extensions on studs

We deliberately left the easiest method for last; this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make the right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Place the extensions in place, wedge them from the inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against the seats of the door frame, prevent them from bursting with tape or spacers, and foam them after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drilling or hammering. Why do we recommend using this particular method?

1. The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
2. You never run the risk of damaging the extensions while drilling holes or driving in nails for one simple reason - there are no holes or nails.
3. While the “big” specialist is drilling holes for screws or nails, you will completely install the extensions on two door frames yourself with the same quality of work as him.

Have you compared how many fewer technological operations there are, how much less there is the risk of damage to the doors and door frames, and how many more advantages there are? Now make your decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

1. Connecting the elements into a tongue/groove allows the elements to be tightly pressed with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely eliminated; there is no need to wedge them.

   

2. The extensions can move up/down or out/in in the door frame. These few “free” millimeters allow you to precisely adjust their location and compensate for possible errors during measuring or sawing.

   

   

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only a stationary circular saw can be used to cut a tenon of the required thickness and depth on additional elements.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the resulting width values, or you can take a piece of thin plywood or a ruler, insert it into the groove and measure the width of the extensions in this position. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway; walls are often uneven.

Step 2. Mark the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to simplify the installation of all elements in the future, reduce their width by 2–3 millimeters. This reserve will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the desired direction.

Step 3. Cut the pieces to length and width.

Step 4. Set the circular saw stop to the width of the tenon, raise the saw table in such a way as to ensure the required height of the tenon. Place the board on the edge and carefully cut out the tenon.

Step 5. Prepare all the remaining elements of the additions in the same way.

Everything else is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent expansion, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, wet them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging; the extensions already hold their size perfectly and are tightly pressed to the door frame.

Video - Installation of adjustable extensions

When installing the extensions, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself; use only the third, simplest method - installation on foam. Why?

1. Firstly, the extensions are never affected by pulling forces; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
2. Secondly, the nails serve only to securely press the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from being pulled out. Ordinary wedges made of polystyrene foam, paper and other available materials cope with the same task no worse.
3. Thirdly, any “drilling” in thin boards and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the accessory or repair the box.

No one needs the first, second, and third. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think that this is one of the effective methods of undeservedly increasing wages for unscrupulous builders. They importantly tell customers that for such complex work they need to pay appropriate amounts.

You should not nail the horizontal expansion to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints; it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra nails in thin trims are an extra chance to see a hole on the front part, and this is a direct defect in the work.

Do not nail the planks together

You may find advice to connect all the elements with the letter P before installing the extensions in the door frame. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

1. Firstly, it does not reduce, but increases installation time.
2. Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”; during the movement and installation of the structure, the nails will still move a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
3. Thirdly, the structure may become so distorted during transportation that the nails will compromise the integrity of the front side of the extensions. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair the crack “to its original state.” An experienced master will always see the problem area.

And one last piece of advice. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite a specialist to help. You install several door panels yourself, and a few must be installed by a professional. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of building a bathhouse as quickly as possible, or you don’t have enough time, your vacation is ending, but you want to finish finishing the bathhouse as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it is immediately obvious that they are not being looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you see sealants for cracks, shake the “craftsman’s” hand and send him back. Modern MDF doors must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing a door extension

Price 10 kopecks.

STATE STANDARDS

USSR UNION

WRENCHES

GOST 2838-80 (ST SEV 1285-78); GOST 2839-80 (ST SEV 1287-84); GOST 2841-80 (ST SEV 1286-84); GOST 2906-80 (ST SEV 1292-84); GOST 10112-80;

GOST 16983-80 (ST SEV 1293-84)

Official publication

USSR STATE COMMITTEE ON STANDARDS

to GOST 2839-80 Double-sided open-end wrenches. Design and dimensions

(IUS No. 6 2007)

UDC 621.883:006.354 Group G24

STATE STANDARD OF THE USSR UNION

DOUBLE-SIDED OPEN-END WRENCHES

Design and dimensions

Double-ended open spanners. Construction and dimensions

|ST SEV 1287-84)

GOST 2839-71

By Decree of the USSR State Committee on Standards dated June 16, 1980 No. 2800, the validity period was established

from 01/01/81 to 01/01/91

Failure to comply with the standard is punishable by law

1. This standard applies to open-end wrenches with dimensions from 2.5x3.2 to 75x80 mm, manufactured for the needs of the national economy and for export.

2. The main dimensions of the keys must correspond to those indicated in the drawing and in the table. 1.

Official publication Reproduction prohibited

* Reissue (September 1986) with Changes No. 1, 2, approved

Fast. No. 1203 of 04.25.85 (IUS No. 6-82, No. 7-85)

Continuation of the table. I

Continuation of the table. I

Note. The sizes of the pharynx along the 1st row are preferred for use.

An example of a symbol for a wrench with jaw dimensions 17X19 mm, increased accuracy P, strength group C, with surface roughness version 1 according to GOST 2838-80, with a chrome coating 9 microns thick:

Key 7811-0023 P S 1 X9 GOST 2839-80 The same, normal accuracy:

Key 7811-0023 C 1 X 9GOST 2839-80 (Changed edition, Amendment No. 2).

3. Keys must be made of strength groups C and D according to GOST 2838-80 from the steel grades indicated in table. 2.

It is allowed to use steel of other grades with mechanical properties in a heat-treated state not lower than those of the steel grades indicated in the table. 2.

table 2

* According to GOST 4543-71 ** According to GOST 1050-74

4. Keys of strength group C must have hardness according to the 1st row, and group D - according to the 2nd row of GOST 2838-80.

5. Technical requirements - according to GOST 2838-80.

6. The dimensions of the heads and handles of the wrenches are indicated in the recommended appendices 1 and 2.

WRENCH HEAD SIZES

With mouth S<10 мм С зевом S>10 mm

Note. The middle of the arc of radius r should be at the intersection point of the axes of the handle and jaw.

Continuation

(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1, 2).

WRENCH HANDLE DIMENSIONS

With throat S^IO mm

With throat S>10 mm

Jaw sizes

9.0 11,0 10,0 11,0 10,0 12,0

il

L

il

11

11

11

L

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

11

Continuation

Continuation

Continuation

Maximum deviations of dimensions, except S and I - according to normal accuracy GOST 7505-74.

(Changed edition, Amendment No. 2).