How to make a robot at home using improvised materials. How to make a robot at home for a child? What can be taught thanks to this set?
I decided to smoothly transition to dynamic moving models. This is a project for a small homemade IR-controlled robot, assembled from simple and readily available parts. It is based on two microcontrollers. Transmission from the remote control is provided PIC12F675, and the receiving part for the motor controller is implemented on PIC12F629.
Robot circuit on a microcontroller
Everything went smoothly with the digital part, the only problem was in the “propulsion system” - small gearboxes, which are very problematic to make at home, so I had to develop the idea " vibrobugs"The micromotors are controlled through amplifying transistor switches on the BC337. They are replaceable with any other small n-p-n transistors with a collector current of 0.5 A.
The dimensions turned out to be very small - in the photo there is a comparison of it with a coin and also near a matchbox. The robot's eyes are made of super-bright LEDs, tucked into a housing of small electrolytic capacitors.
Discuss the article SMALL HOMEMADE ROBOT
Nowadays, few people remember, unfortunately, that in 2005 there were the Chemical Brothers and they had a wonderful video - Believe, where a robotic hand chased the hero of the video around the city.
Then I had a dream. Unrealistic at that time, because I didn’t have the slightest idea about electronics. But I wanted to believe - believe. 10 years have passed, and just yesterday I managed to assemble my own robotic arm for the first time, put it into operation, then break it, fix it, and put it back into operation, and along the way, find friends and gain confidence in my own abilities.
Attention, there are spoilers below the cut!
It all started with (hello, Master Keith, and thank you for allowing me to write on your blog!), which was almost immediately found and selected after this article on Habré. The website says that even an 8-year-old child can assemble a robot - why am I any worse? I'm just trying my hand at it in the same way.
At first there was paranoia
As a true paranoid, I will immediately express the concerns that I initially had regarding the designer. In my childhood, first there were good Soviet designers, then Chinese toys that crumbled in my hands... and then my childhood ended :(Therefore, from what remained in the memory of toys was:
- Will the plastic break and crumble in your hands?
- Will the parts fit loosely?
- Will the set not contain all the parts?
- Will the assembled structure be fragile and short-lived?
- Some parts will have to be finished with a file.
- And some of the parts simply won’t be in the set
- And another part will not work initially, it will have to be changed
The details of the designer not only fit together perfectly, but also the fact that the details are almost impossible to confuse. True, with German pedantry, the creators set aside exactly as many screws as needed, therefore, it is undesirable to lose screws on the floor or confuse “which goes where” when assembling the robot.
Specifications:
Length: 228 mm
Height: 380 mm
Width: 160 mm
Assembly weight: 658 gr.
Nutrition: 4 D batteries
Weight of objects lifted: up to 100 g
Backlight: 1 LED
Control type: wired remote control
Estimated build time: 6 hours
Movement: 5 brushed motors
Protection of the structure when moving: ratchet
Mobility:
Capture mechanism: 0-1,77""
Wrist movement: within 120 degrees
Elbow movement: within 300 degrees
Shoulder movement: within 180 degrees
Rotation on the platform: within 270 degrees
You will need:
- extra long pliers (you can't do without them)
- side cutters (can be replaced with a paper knife, scissors)
- crosshead screwdriver
- 4 D batteries
Important! About small details
Speaking of “cogs”. If you have encountered a similar problem and know how to make the assembly even more convenient, welcome to the comments. For now, I'll share my experience.Bolts and screws that are identical in function, but different in length, are quite clearly stated in the instructions, for example, in the middle photo below we see bolts P11 and P13. Or maybe P14 - well, that is, again, I'm confusing them again. =)
You can distinguish them: the instructions indicate which one is how many millimeters. But, firstly, you won’t sit with a caliper (especially if you are 8 years old and/or you simply don’t have one), and, secondly, in the end you can only distinguish them if you put them next to each other, which may not happen right away came to mind (didn't occur to me, hehe).
Therefore, I’ll warn you in advance if you decide to build this or a similar robot yourself, here’s a hint:
- or take a closer look at the fastening elements in advance;
- or buy yourself more small screws, self-tapping screws and bolts so as not to worry.
Also, never throw anything away until you have finished assembling. In the bottom photo in the middle, between two parts from the body of the robot’s “head” there is a small ring that almost went into the trash along with other “scraps”. And this, by the way, is a holder for an LED flashlight in the “head” of the gripping mechanism.
Build process
The robot comes with instructions without unnecessary words - only images and clearly cataloged and labeled parts.The parts are quite easy to bite off and do not require cleaning, but I liked the idea of processing each part with a cardboard knife and scissors, although this is not necessary.
The build begins with four of the five included motors, which are a real pleasure to assemble: I just love gear mechanisms.
We found the motors neatly packaged and “sticking” to each other - get ready to answer the child’s question about why commutator motors are magnetic (you can immediately in the comments! :)
Important: in 3 out of 5 motor housings you need recess the nuts on the sides- in the future we will place the bodies on them when assembling the arm. Side nuts are not needed only in the motor, which will form the basis of the platform, but in order not to remember later which body goes where, it is better to bury the nuts in each of the four yellow bodies at once. Only for this operation you will need pliers; they will not be needed later.
After about 30-40 minutes, each of the 4 motors was equipped with its own gear mechanism and housing. Putting everything together is no more difficult than putting together Kinder Surprise in childhood, only much more interesting. Question for care based on the photo above: three of the four output gears are black, where is the white one? Blue and black wires should come out of its body. It’s all in the instructions, but I think it’s worth paying attention to it again.
After you have all the motors in your hands, except for the “head” one, you will begin assembling the platform on which our robot will stand. It was at this stage that I realized that I had to be more thoughtful with screws and screws: as you can see in the photo above, I didn’t have enough two screws for fastening the motors together using the side nuts - they were already screwed into the depth of the already assembled platform. I had to improvise.
Once the platform and main part of the arm are assembled, the instructions will prompt you to move on to assembling the gripper mechanism, which is full of small parts and moving parts - the fun part!
But, I must say that this is where the spoilers will end and the video will begin, since I had to go to a meeting with a friend and had to take the robot with me, which I couldn’t finish in time.
How to become the life of the party with the help of a robot
Easily! When we continued assembling together, it became clear: to assemble the robot yourself - Very Nice. Working on a design together is doubly pleasant. Therefore, I can confidently recommend this set for those who do not want to sit in a cafe having boring conversations, but want to see friends and have a good time. Moreover, it seems to me that team building with such a set - for example, assembly by two teams, for speed - is almost a win-win option.The robot came to life in our hands as soon as we finished assembling it. Unfortunately, I cannot convey our delight to you in words, but I think many here will understand me. When a structure that you assembled yourself suddenly begins to live a full life - it’s a thrill!
We realized that we were terribly hungry and went to eat. It wasn't far to go, so we carried the robot in our hands. And then another pleasant surprise awaited us: robotics is not only exciting. It also brings people closer together. As soon as we sat down at the table, we were surrounded by people who wanted to get to know the robot and build one for themselves. Most of all, the kids liked to greet the robot “by the tentacles,” because it really behaves like it’s alive, and, first of all, it’s a hand! In a word, the basic principles of animatronics were mastered intuitively by users. This is what it looked like:
Troubleshooting
Upon returning home, an unpleasant surprise awaited me, and it’s good that it happened before the publication of this review, because now we’ll immediately discuss troubleshooting.Having decided to try to move the arm through the maximum amplitude, we managed to achieve a characteristic crackling sound and failure of the functionality of the motor mechanism in the elbow. At first this upset me: well, it’s a new toy, just assembled, and it no longer works.
But then it dawned on me: if you just collected it yourself, what was the point? =) I know very well the set of gears inside the case, and to understand whether the motor itself is broken, or whether the case was simply not secured well enough, you can load it without removing the motor from the board and see if the clicking continues.
This is where I managed to feel hereby robo-master!
Having carefully disassembled the “elbow joint”, it was possible to determine that without load the motor runs smoothly. The housing came apart, one of the screws fell inside (because it was magnetized by the motor), and if we had continued operation, the gears would have been damaged - when disassembled, a characteristic “powder” of worn-out plastic was found on them.
It is very convenient that the robot did not have to be disassembled entirely. And it’s really cool that the breakdown occurred due to not entirely accurate assembly in this place, and not due to some factory difficulties: they were not found in my kit at all.
Advice: For the first time after assembly, keep a screwdriver and pliers at hand - they may come in handy.
What can be taught thanks to this set?
Self confidence!Not only did I find common topics for communication with complete strangers, but I also managed to not only assemble, but also repair the toy on my own! This means I have no doubt: everything will always be ok with my robot. And this is a very pleasant feeling when it comes to your favorite things.
We live in a world where we are terribly dependent on sellers, suppliers, service employees and the availability of free time and money. If you know how to do almost nothing, you will have to pay for everything, and most likely overpay. The ability to fix a toy yourself, because you know how every part of it works, is priceless. Let the child have such self-confidence.
Results
What I liked:- The robot, assembled according to the instructions, did not require debugging and started immediately
- The details are almost impossible to confuse
- Strict cataloging and availability of parts
- Instructions you don't need to read (images only)
- Absence of significant backlashes and gaps in structures
- Ease of assembly
- Ease of prevention and repair
- Last but not least: you assemble your toy yourself, Filipino children don’t work for you
- More fasteners, in stock
- Parts and spare parts for it so that they can be replaced if necessary
- More robots, different and complex
- Ideas on what can be improved/added/removed - in short, the game doesn’t end with assembly! I really want it to continue!
Assembling a robot from this construction set is no more difficult than a puzzle or Kinder Surprise, only the result is much larger and caused a storm of emotions in us and those around us. Great set, thanks
Make a robot very simple Let's figure out what it takes to create a robot at home, in order to understand the basics of robotics.
Surely, after watching enough movies about robots, you have often wanted to build your own comrade in battle, but you didn’t know where to start. Of course, you won't be able to build a bipedal Terminator, but that's not what we're trying to achieve. Anyone who knows how to hold a soldering iron correctly in their hands can assemble a simple robot and this does not require deep knowledge, although it will not hurt. Amateur robotics is not much different from circuit design, only much more interesting, because it also involves areas such as mechanics and programming. All components are easily available and are not that expensive. So progress does not stand still, and we will use it to our advantage.
Introduction
So. What is a robot? In most cases, this is an automatic device that responds to any environmental actions. Robots can be controlled by humans or perform pre-programmed actions. Typically, the robot is equipped with a variety of sensors (distance, rotation angle, acceleration), video cameras, and manipulators. The electronic part of the robot consists of a microcontroller (MC) - a microcircuit that contains a processor, a clock generator, various peripherals, RAM and permanent memory. There are a huge number of different microcontrollers in the world for different applications, and on their basis you can assemble powerful robots. AVR microcontrollers are widely used for amateur buildings. They are by far the most accessible and on the Internet you can find many examples based on these MKs. To work with microcontrollers, you need to be able to program in assembler or C and have basic knowledge of digital and analog electronics. In our project we will use C. Programming for MK is not much different from programming on a computer, the language syntax is the same, most functions are practically no different, and new ones are quite easy to learn and convenient to use.
What do we need
To begin with, our robot will be able to simply avoid obstacles, that is, repeat the normal behavior of most animals in nature. Everything we need to build such a robot can be found in radio stores. Let's decide how our robot will move. I think the most successful are the tracks that are used in tanks; this is the most convenient solution, because the tracks have greater maneuverability than the wheels of a vehicle and are more convenient to control (to turn, it is enough to rotate the tracks in different directions). Therefore, you will need any toy tank whose tracks rotate independently of each other, you can buy one at any toy store at a reasonable price. From this tank you only need a platform with tracks and motors with gearboxes, the rest you can safely unscrew and throw away. We also need a microcontroller, my choice fell on ATmega16 - it has enough ports for connecting sensors and peripherals and in general it is quite convenient. You will also need to purchase some radio components, a soldering iron, and a multimeter.
Making a board with MK
In our case, the microcontroller will perform the functions of the brain, but we will not start with it, but with powering the robot’s brain. Proper nutrition is the key to health, so we will start with how to properly feed our robot, because this is where novice robot builders usually make mistakes. And in order for our robot to work normally, we need to use a voltage stabilizer. I prefer the L7805 chip - it is designed to produce a stable 5V output voltage, which is what our microcontroller needs. But due to the fact that the voltage drop on this microcircuit is about 2.5V, a minimum of 7.5V must be supplied to it. Together with this stabilizer, electrolytic capacitors are used to smooth out voltage ripples and a diode is necessarily included in the circuit to protect against polarity reversal.
Now we can move on to our microcontroller. The case of the MK is DIP (it’s more convenient to solder) and has forty pins. On board there is an ADC, PWM, USART and much more that we will not use for now. Let's look at a few important nodes. The RESET pin (9th leg of the MK) is pulled up by resistor R1 to the “plus” of the power source - this must be done! Otherwise, your MK may unintentionally reset or, more simply put, glitch. Another desirable measure, but not mandatory, is to connect RESET through the ceramic capacitor C1 to ground. In the diagram you can also see a 1000 uF electrolyte; it saves you from voltage dips when the engines are running, which will also have a beneficial effect on the operation of the microcontroller. Quartz resonator X1 and capacitors C2, C3 should be located as close as possible to pins XTAL1 and XTAL2.
I won’t talk about how to flash MK, since you can read about it on the Internet. We will write the program in C; I chose CodeVisionAVR as the programming environment. This is a fairly user-friendly environment and is useful for beginners because it has a built-in code creation wizard.
Motor control
An equally important component in our robot is the motor driver, which makes it easier for us to control it. Never and under no circumstances should motors be connected directly to the MK! In general, powerful loads cannot be controlled directly from the microcontroller, otherwise it will burn out. Use key transistors. For our case, there is a special chip - L293D. In such simple projects, always try to use this particular chip with the “D” index, as it has built-in diodes for overload protection. This microcircuit is very easy to control and is easy to get in radio stores. It is available in two packages: DIP and SOIC. We will use DIP in the package due to the ease of mounting on the board. L293D has separate power supply for motors and logic. Therefore, we will power the microcircuit itself from the stabilizer (VSS input), and the motors directly from the batteries (VS input). L293D can withstand a load of 600 mA per channel, and it has two of these channels, that is, two motors can be connected to one chip. But to be on the safe side, we will combine the channels, and then we will need one micra for each engine. It follows that the L293D will be able to withstand 1.2 A. To achieve this, you need to combine the micra legs, as shown in the diagram. The microcircuit works as follows: when a logical “0” is applied to IN1 and IN2, and a logical one is applied to IN3 and IN4, the motor rotates in one direction, and if the signals are inverted - a logical zero is applied, then the motor will begin to rotate in the other direction. Pins EN1 and EN2 are responsible for turning on each channel. We connect them and connect them to the “plus” of the power supply from the stabilizer. Since the microcircuit heats up during operation, and installing radiators on this type of case is problematic, heat dissipation is provided by GND legs - it is better to solder them on a wide contact pad. That's all you need to know about engine drivers for the first time.
Obstacle sensors
So that our robot can navigate and not crash into everything, we will install two infrared sensors on it. The simplest sensor consists of an IR diode that emits in the infrared spectrum and a phototransistor that will receive the signal from the IR diode. The principle is this: when there is no obstacle in front of the sensor, the IR rays do not hit the phototransistor and it does not open. If there is an obstacle in front of the sensor, then the rays are reflected from it and hit the transistor - it opens and current begins to flow. The disadvantage of such sensors is that they can react differently to different surfaces and are not protected from interference - the sensor may accidentally be triggered by extraneous signals from other devices. Modulating the signal can protect you from interference, but we won’t bother with that for now. For starters, that's enough.
Robot firmware
To bring the robot to life, you need to write firmware for it, that is, a program that would take readings from sensors and control the motors. My program is the simplest, it does not contain complex structures and will be understandable to everyone. The next two lines include header files for our microcontroller and commands for generating delays:
#include
#include
The following lines are conditional because the PORTC values depend on how you connected the motor driver to your microcontroller:
PORTC.0 = 1; PORTC.1 = 0; PORTC.2 = 1; PORTC.3 = 0; The value 0xFF means that the output will be log. "1", and 0x00 is log. "0". With the following construction we check whether there is an obstacle in front of the robot and on which side it is: if (!(PINB & (1< If light from an IR diode hits the phototransistor, then a log is installed on the microcontroller leg. “0” and the robot starts moving backward to move away from the obstacle, then turns around so as not to collide with the obstacle again and then moves forward again. Since we have two sensors, we check for the presence of an obstacle twice - on the right and on the left, and therefore we can find out which side the obstacle is on. The command "delay_ms(1000)" indicates that one second will pass before the next command begins to execute. I've covered most of the aspects that will help you build your first robot. But robotics doesn't end there. If you assemble this robot, you will have a lot of opportunities to expand it. You can improve the robot's algorithm, such as what to do if the obstacle is not on some side, but right in front of the robot. It also wouldn’t hurt to install an encoder - a simple device that will help you accurately position and know the location of your robot in space. For clarity, it is possible to install a color or monochrome display that can show useful information - battery charge level, distance to obstacles, various debugging information. It wouldn't hurt to improve the sensors - installing TSOPs (these are IR receivers that perceive a signal only of a certain frequency) instead of conventional phototransistors. In addition to infrared sensors, there are ultrasonic sensors, which are more expensive and also have their drawbacks, but have recently been gaining popularity among robot builders. In order for the robot to respond to sound, it would be a good idea to install microphones with an amplifier. But what I think is really interesting is installing the camera and programming machine vision based on it. There is a set of special OpenCV libraries with which you can program facial recognition, movement according to colored beacons and many other interesting things. It all depends only on your imagination and skills. List of components: ATmega16 in DIP-40 package> L7805 in TO-220 package L293D in DIP-16 housing x2 pcs. resistors with a power of 0.25 W with ratings: 10 kOhm x 1 pc., 220 Ohm x 4 pcs. ceramic capacitors: 0.1 µF, 1 µF, 22 pF electrolytic capacitors: 1000 µF x 16 V, 220 µF x 16 V x 2 pcs. diode 1N4001 or 1N4004 16 MHz quartz resonator IR diodes: any two of them will do. phototransistors, also any, but responding only to the wavelength of infrared rays Firmware code: At the moment my robot is almost complete. It is equipped with a wireless camera, a distance sensor (both the camera and this sensor are installed on a rotating tower), an obstacle sensor, an encoder, a signal receiver from the remote control and an RS-232 interface for connecting to a computer. It operates in two modes: autonomous and manual (receives control signals from the remote control), the camera can also be turned on/off remotely or by the robot itself to save battery power. I am writing firmware for apartment security (transferring images to a computer, detecting movements, walking around the premises). My team and I are making a robot to participate in Robot Battle. Our robot is called "Big Brother" and he is looking at you! He looks, overtakes and smashes to smithereens. His predatory nature and powerful kinetic weapons make him the perfect killing machine. He's already here, he's close - run! This is a short one history of the development of a combat robot at home. Beware of traffic! Lots of images. We are taking part in the competition "Bronebot 2015: Autumn Warm-up" (http://www.bronebot.ru/). Robot fighting has been a popular show in the UK and US for over 25 years. It will be held in Moscow for the first time. Peter Redmond, President of the Irish Federation of Robot Fighting, Vice-President of the English Federation of Robot Fighting, creator of special effects for “Top Gear” and “Games of Thrones” comes to judge. When we were offered to participate in the competition, we agreed without question, although in vain... There is very little time, but we are trying our best. Competition regulations
Below is information for designers on creating robots that participate in Armored Battles. 1. Design 1.1. Weight. The robots are presented in three weight categories. Depending on the category chosen by the participant, the maximum weight of robots is: For walking robots, the weight limit is 30% higher in all classes. Walking robots do not need to use a crankshaft to move. 1.2. The maximum dimensions of the structure depend on the category: 1.3. The use of cluster robots (capable of being divided into several independent robots) is allowed. When the battle begins, the robot must be a single unit. If 50% of the bots or more are damaged, the robot is considered a loser. 1.4. Robots must be equipped with ON/OFF toggle switches in a part remote from the weapon, completely turning off the power to all subsystems of the robot. If there are several toggle switches, they should be located nearby. The toggle switches may be hidden under the shell, but must be accessible without turning the robot over or disassembling it with tools. 1.5. Flying robots are prohibited. 2. Electricity 2.2. All electrical connections must be made with high quality and properly insulated. Cables must be laid with minimal chance of being severed. 2.3. Batteries must be completely insulated and free of liquids. Battery connections must be completely insulated. 2.4. Internal combustion engines are prohibited. 3. Hydraulics 3.1. Hydraulic line pressure should not exceed 204 atm (3000 psi/20.4 mps). 3.2. Hydraulic fluids must be kept in secure containers inside the robot. All hydraulic lines must be routed with minimal risk of damage. 4. Pneumatics 4.1. The pressure in the pneumatic lines should not exceed 68 atm (1000 psi/6.8 mps). 4.2. Pneumatic containers must be of appropriate quality and industrial production. The pressure in them must correspond to the manufacturer's specifications. 4.3. Pneumatic containers must be secured inside the robot and protected from damage. 4.4. Gases for pneumatics must be non-flammable or inert, for example, air, carbon dioxide, argon, nitrogen. 4.5. It must be possible to relieve pressure in the system without dismantling the structure. 5. Weapons 5.3. The speed of rotating weapons (circular saws, rotating blades, etc.) should not exceed the manufacturer's specifications. Specifications must be available for inspection. 5.4. Rotating hardened steel discs and blades that splinter when broken are prohibited. 5.5. The length of the blades should not exceed 20 cm. 5.6. All movable manipulators, even those not containing weapons, must have fixing fasteners. Fasteners must be closed in all cases except when the robot is in the arena or for maintenance. 5.7. All sharp edges and elements of the weapon must have covers or attachments. These items are not taken into account when weighing. 6. Radio control 6.1. The frequencies used must be permitted by the legislation of the Russian Federation. 6.2. The robot should not have autonomy. All control must be carried out exclusively from the operator console. 6.3. All robot systems must be shut down when the control signal is lost. 6.4. Stability of management must be demonstrated to the Organizers in advance for admission to participation. 6.5. To avoid frequency conflicts between robots, participants must have two transmitter-receiver sets operating on different frequencies. The fights will take place on a special bulletproof stage 10x10 meters with beveled corners, i.e. in fact it is an octagon. Other robots Most robots have extensive experience participating in competitions, but this only makes the task of winning against them even more interesting. Each team member is doing everything in their power to achieve a bright future, but I would especially like to highlight the work of Sasha and Andrey. They invest all their free time into the robot. The fact that our robot will destroy everyone else is precisely their merit! After watching a huge number of videos of robot competitions, we understood for ourselves the main characteristics of a robot that provide advantages on the battlefield: This is how the idea was born to create a pyramid-shaped robot with a main weapon in the form of a twin hammer for the ability to strike in two directions, two small hammers on the sides, and a fork tipper. Also from the features: Detachable part of the robot, and saws. Cutting the profile We cook the frame Wheels from the construction market We had very high hopes for Nema 43 stepper motors. According to the stated characteristics, they suited us, we welded a frame for them. When connecting, it turned out that they would not be able to cope with any load. We urgently had to look for another solution. We found 36V 500W motors and have already converted the frame to accommodate them. Radio control occurs through 8-channel radio equipment for the main operator, 4-channel equipment for the implement operator and 2-channel equipment for the detachable part. The PWM signal from the remote control is processed by Arduino (The Soul of My Robot Lawn Mower). The problem with processing was that it takes a long time to calculate the PWM signal from 8 channels. By doing this in the main program loop, it was impossible to send an adequate number of pulses to the motor drivers for movement. The solution was to convert the work with steppers into a function triggered by a timer and change the timer parameters in the main loop. Now it turns out that all this is no longer necessary, we control the commutator motors through a driver to which we will supply PWM, which can be safely changed in the main program cycle. Pneumatic system disassembled: The main idea was to use 4 valves for each two-way cylinder, which are cross-connected. When we open the valve to fill the cylinder on one side, we open the valve on the opposite side to bleed. To control the valves, we decided to use such a module with 8 relays, which are just enough for 16 valves connected in pairs, i.e. for 4 cylinders. Main hammer. We are thinking and arguing about the design of the main pickaxe hammer. For saws, we decided to use mowing motors and knives from Robomow. Firstly, the knives are made of durable steel, and the engines provide good torque and speed. Secondly, Robomow agreed to sponsor us with them. P.S.: I’m preparing the second part, we are also preparing for the competition of autonomous robotic lawn mowers. P.P.S. (for those who think time is short): Today we will tell you how to make a robot from available materials. The resulting “high-tech android,” although small in size and unlikely to help you with housework, will certainly amuse both children and adults. At the very end of the destabilizer, drop a couple of drops of glue, or attach some decorative element - this will add individuality to our creation and increase the amplitude of its movements. Conclusion
Description of the competition
5.1. Each robot must be equipped with at least one active weapon.Arena
our team
Brief description of the robot
Frame, shape, assembly
Engines
Radio control
Pneumatic system
Guns
Video
Necessary materials
In order to make a robot with your own hands, you do not need knowledge of nuclear physics. This can be done at home from ordinary materials that you always have on hand. So what we need: 
1. Attach the battery to the motor
Using a glue gun, attach a piece of foam cardboard to the motor housing. Then we glue the battery to it. 
3. Legs
Now you need to equip the robot with lower limbs. If you use toothbrush heads for this, glue them to the bottom of the motor. You can use the same foam board as a layer. 
5. Battery connection
Using a heat gun, glue the wire to one end of the battery. You can choose any of the two wires and either side of the battery - polarity does not matter in this case. If you're good at soldering, you can also use soldering instead of glue for this step. 
6. Eyes
A pair of beads, which we attach with hot glue to one end of the battery, are quite suitable as the robot’s eyes. At this step, you can show your imagination and come up with the appearance of the eyes at your discretion. 
7. Launch
Now let's bring our homemade project to life. Take the free end of the wire and attach it to the unoccupied battery terminal using adhesive tape. You shouldn't use hot glue for this step because it will prevent you from turning off the motor if necessary.
